Ascents in Greece by Tobias Auth

First falls with John. Good route but a very unobvious crux. I tried the wrong sequence at the traverse crux. Tiny and sloping feet in the thin, grey crux. At the traverse go further up than you think – traversing low is pribably possible but incredibly hard.

#repeat 2.5 stars. Probably 3 in good conditions and after brushing! Last route of the trip.

#repeat

I expected condition dependent and I got it. Crux hold high up (mini stalagmite?) was wet or maybe my skin was seeping. Much better than anticipated and really fun! No low crux. Without the cruxy bit at the top it's really fun and techy 6c+ ish. All moves onsight to the wet stalagmite. Everything else dried off well during the day and climbs really well! Recommended!

#repeat Starts to deserve a "b" I think.

I was surprised this did not feel greasy or too smooth. Personal grade as tall person with long arms: 7a. Easier to start (pocket-jug, sidepull-jug, mega-jug) and could skip the mini two finger side pull and reach far left gaston instead. Really fun movement throughout. I was glad Danny picked this because it was not on my list.

First try.

First attempt.

Not sure what to think about this. Scary to lead. Runout.

2nd go. Cool route to project. Not easy to OS.

#repeat

Really good moves. Some holds and footholds seem "enhanced" (in parts) but climbs reeally well! A crux that goes a little left and right again. Small holds and small feet! Solid 6c for Kaly.

Quite techy and wandery. 6a+.

Great climb on tufa jugs and big slots. One short hard part towards the anchor. Otherwise very enjoyable 6a-ish.

After the approach pitch (a nice climb on its own), steep 3D jugs in a chimney (kind of) and some smaller holds to exit onto the headwall. More solid at the grade compared to Stoned woman and Heidrun. P1 6a P2 6c seems fair.

A jug fest with a techy crux and some hidden holds. Wonderful gym-like climb! Easy for the grade if you're comfortable in this terrain.

Both pitches as one. P1 not much more than an approach pitch. P2 is awesome! A broccoli-coated dihedral with a ~4m long tufa at the top (that you actually use!!). 45 to 50m low 6b+. If you're comfortable with laybacking on tufas! If P2 was a first pitch at sector Poets, it would be one of the most popular routes for sure.

Draw to draw, all moves done in around 20 minutes.

Link attempt. Lowered at top of boulder.

Did not get easier. Trickiest 7b on Kaly? My vote for a 7b+ upgrade. Especially hard for tall people to fit into the corner.

One hang at crux. Went up with wrong foot first.

Getting some good airtime with Danny. First crux first try, tufa fin crux 2nd try. Did all moves to the pocket crux close to the top (around 4th last bolt). Bailed from there. Spent around one hour in the route. Probably a little too hard to get back into tufas. Finally picked a route that's rather far away. Would make a great project!

Worst fixed anchor gear of the whole trip.

Awkward start. Better above.

Not sure about the grade (maybe a tad soft even for Kaly standards) but it climbs well! Pockets, crimps, good feet.

4c and a small foothold.

Climbs well. Solid 1.5 stars? Kaly 6b+/c?

Mostly good crimps and a little thin broccoli but good feet all the way. Tricky body positioning. The 7a grade is a joke. 6b+ or very generous 6c.

The crux is the best part about this. Solved it with a high left foot. Layback into long gaston – if that makes sense. Partly smooth brown rock – glad to OS. My OS beta felt like 7b but saw better beta by Basti. Comparing to other 7a+es on Kaly that grade seems fair.

The right one of the two lines above the name. Don't remember much. Dihedral crux and some small holds to an easier rooflet.

Great fun with several "incut" handjams and good moves. Everyone seemed to agree on 6c, maybe 6c+ in crag context.

Just a single hard move to a sharp hold. Otherwise around 6a.

Far easier than expected. Cool climbing though! Felt like 6b/+ to me. A reachy crux, so may be harder (around 6c/+?) for shorter climbers, like Mike pointed out. Never 7a/+.

Nice rock and a moonboard-style boulder at the bulge. Maybe 6B moonboard level. Upper end 7a. Could be a Kaly 7a+.

Foot slip above the crux. Good route! A lot easier than Rebel Yell. Harder than "the line". 6c+.

Felt very easy. 5b/c?

Knew the first, low crux from Mike's OS but didn't expect the tricky slab! Good! 6c/+ seems fair.

clean lead #repeat as warm-up. Belayed Dan on Priapos and watched Mathias send FDC 2nd go afterwards. Ready for the restday.

Seeing if I can still climb steep tufas. Pulled off a tufa. odds 1:10000?! Took a break and went to the top w/ no more hangs.

Draws in for Laura's send. Good workout up to the 2nd last bolt. First screams of the trip. Heady and exciting for me right now. Great first day w/ Dan!

More steep tufas for training because draws were up. Quite far away from my 2019 fitness and pump resistance. Fell after gaining the weird bit before the first real crux.

Grade doesn't fit the crag context of compared to the route to the left. No great climbing either. Small and smooth foothold crux.

Awesome top half! Classic for the grade. #repeat

Sustained and thin. Not far off my limit in this style (right now I guess). Solid 6c+ for Kaly. Really good route.

One very thin part. Very good!! Solid for the grade by Kaly standards I'd say.