Ascents in Europe as sport by o_g

My dream of flashing / onsighting every route at twin caves under 7b was brutally cut short. I only had a hand full of 5b's and 5c's to go! I wonder if I could bribe the guide book author to upgrade this route from 6b+ to 7b?

Excellent climbing. Felt a bit stiff and reachy on the headwall.

Nice technical wall climbing. Easier than it looks.

Felt a bit tired towards the top. Had to downclimb to get out of trouble.

Took some effort, but enjoyed the battle. Lots of two and three finger shallow pockets lead to a brutal crux on mono pockets. Nails.

The crowds departed and there was a rare period of time when this route is not being seiged. Had a nervous moment up high pulling into a wet slab, but held it together. Totally classic climbing. Looks from the ground to be a bit contrived (very close to a 5c bridging corner that you could use for a rest) but doesn't feel like it when climbing.

My new nemesis. I keep finding ways to fall of the last move.

Best climbing of the trip. 10 metres of brilliance.

Assumed the guidebook, which said 30m and 29 quickdraws, was wrong and took 20 quickdraws. It was wrong, but not about the number of draws. Looks like the anchor has been moved higher, and it's now a 40m pitch. Ordinary first 10 metres, then classic climbing above that.

Good climbing. Nice pockets and rock.

This felt hard. Not a great warm up for me, and not of the quality of other routes we did. Some loose rock. I guess there was a reason it was one of the only routes free.

At one point I was able to touch bolts on three routes at the same time, so they are a bit squeezed in. But once this route gets into the excellent tufa flow up high it gets real good.

Thought I would continue up the extension as it looked good. Nice fingery complex face climbing. A few grades harder than what I was expecting.

Nice climbing on incur slots. Doesn't look like much but we'll worthwhile.

A bit scrappy, but cool hand and finger jams. Something different.

A couple of thin pulls on the headwall.

Much more sustained than tanzmarie. You need to read the top right to get it done.

Some stiff pulls getting through the low bulge. Crux was negotiating the disintegrating belay platform. Gaz almost rode a bolder to the base.

Pretty cool climb. Cruxy first few moves into a sustained bridging corner then a final steep overhang. Good stuff. Was a bit of a sweaty mess afterwards in the humidity.

Had a cool onsight fight and came up just short, pitching off the final slab. It looks like a big flake has come of the top very recently. Makes it either super sustained or harder than 7a. May need to be upgraded to 6c+.

Cool tufa column features. Not as positive as they look from the ground.

More tufa pipe action.

Good techy face climbing. Really cruxy sequence at 3/4 height with three mono pockets and poor feet. Required more commitment and faith in my fingers than I was prepared to give.

Had its moments.

Doesn't look like much, but has great sequences.

Grim technical slabbing for the first half. Almost fell of the steep tufa up high when a foot slipped clipping. Would have been messy.

Lovely orange tufa slabbing.

Nice and long, has a cool lay back sequence up high, but what you see is what you get. Sharp and dirty climbing in the first half, and a little run out.

Quality steep slab climbing on holds.

Not that inspiring a line, but it was there, and so was I. Actually was good value. Felt a bit runout clipping the anchor though.

Stumbled out to the crag a bit jaded from the travel. A bit sunny, but some nice shady trees at the base to hide under. Slabtastic, but I didn't think as good as the route to the right.

Needed a second day. Felt straightforward after sorting a better sequence for the moves to the right and back left at half height in the overhanging section.

Awesome tufa feature. Felt hard, but then first route of the day always seems to.

Felt pretty burly with some powerful moves up the initial wall and corner. Good value.

Warm up. Had its moments.

I thought this was excellent. Sustained tufa features at a low grade. Did get concerned at the top wondering where the anchors were. They eventually showed up.

Rested my way to glory. Tough move at crux, but you get a full rest just before it, so hard to grade.

Putting the draws on so Ryan could try it. I may have done this before, as I think the anchor position must have been the inspiration for some of my 'crux is clipping the chain' new routes.

Felt straightforward second go once I knew where the holds were. Not sure how some of the holds are managing to stay on but it was fun thrashing around on the steep top half on monster jugs.

Struggled with the heat on this one. Felt hard.

I thought this was great. Nice position on the edge of the arch. Cool holds.

Felt a bit pumpy up high.

Great climbing. Scary holds though, not sure how they are stuck on.

Second go, got lost and pumped first time. No problem second go. In other news today is the first day I have slept in till after noon since I was in high school. Climbing from 3pm till 9pm is the future.

According to Ryan even though I did all the moves first time it doesn't count as an onsight, because I may have rested on the top 5 bolts while stick clipping my way to glory. Who appointed him the style police? I now know how ondra must have felt at the world champs.

Quality vertical wall.

Great looking line. Lots of contorting into the tufa system down low. Needed more clothing on to make it a bit more comfortable. Ran out of juice at the top of the tufa system.

Cool route. Fairly new so in good condition.

Warm up. Didn't feel very warm.

Crux is probably the nasty face at the bottom. Fell at the roof, then did the nice face above. Final bolt was missing it's hanger, so finished up route next door.

Classic continuous off vertical face climbing on open dishes and pockets.