Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Wimmis | ||||||
Steinbruch | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Sorry Spinne - with Ana | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Nov 2021 - Les Falloises de Vertus | ||||||
La Pierre aux Corbeaux | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Le Rêve D' Icare - with Pernilla | |||||
Almost couldn't send this clean, that's been a long time...?
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4+ | ★ Chouette T' As De Beaux Yeux - with Pernilla | |||||
Warm up, great
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Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Camarasa | ||||||
La Cova de l’Escaleta | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Malo malote - with Pernilla | 30m | ||||
6c | ★ Magnetic Zero - with Pernilla | 14m | ||||
Jugfest
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Thu 4th Nov 2021 - Camarasa | ||||||
Crestes de conill Cara sud | ||||||
6a | ★ Yang - with Pernilla | |||||
6c | ★★ Chischar - with Pernilla | |||||
On the first go, I got to the Crux pretty well but couldn't read it onsight. The second try I had to work for a while to figure out how to get past the lower section. The third go was Petzl time but in the dark I could remember the beta so that was cool.
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6b+ | ★ Tibetano - with Pernilla | |||||
Probably harder for shorter people.
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Sant Llorenç de Montgai | ||||||
La Formiguera | ||||||
5+ | ★ Martinetti - with Pernilla | 100m | ||||
5+ | ★ La Calderilla - with Pernilla | 85m | ||||
Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Vilanova de Meià | ||||||
Zona roca dels Arcs Contrafort de Roca dels Arcs | ||||||
5+ | diedre ECAM - with Pernilla | 43m | ||||
To make our assault of the Roca dels Arcs more epic, we decided to bushwhack first, then climb the contrafort and then find our route. Nice dihedral, on top another ten meters of pure trad on bad rock. Adventure!
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Tres Ponts | ||||||
Main Wall Section 3 | ||||||
6a+ | Camilo Sesto - with Pernilla | 50m | ||||
First route of the trip. Couldn't fond pitch 2!
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Vorderweidenthaler Gebiet Lauterschwaner Rappenfelsen | ||||||
6+ | Westwand Direkter Einstieg - with Pernilla | |||||
Tricky and confusing to read middle part.
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6 | ★ Herma + Phrodite - with Pernilla | 18m, 5 | ||||
Cool
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6 | ★ Sixpack - with Pernilla | |||||
Haha I made a very complicated bad move low on the route and suffered some skipped heartbeats but apart from that beautiful tradding and great fun.
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7+ | ★★★ Sächsische Manier - with Pernilla | 5 | ||||
Exceptional choreography,absolute stunner of a route. Well bolted.
|
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Fri 24th Sep 2021 - Plain des Fosses | ||||||
Le Rocher du Canal | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cachemire - with Kobe | |||||
6a | 2. - with Kobe | |||||
6a+ | 1. - with Kobe | |||||
Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Monte Colodri Parete Sud | ||||||
6a | ★★ Primi Sogni - with pj, chiara | 180m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Corno di Bo | ||||||
4b | ★ Prima del Tunnel | 50m | ||||
First rope solo, yaay. First length I tried the clove-hitch-on-biner technique, the second length the grigri. Lots of rope management, even With the rope in a backpack.
|
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Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Ranzo Il Bersaglio Lower Sector | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Mini Cooper - with PJ, Chiara | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Blasted through the middle section with more arms than feet. Should use the feet more!
|
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Thu 28th Jan 2021 - Beez | ||||||
Rocher de la Fanette Secteur Fanette | ||||||
4+ | Tom en An - with Kobe | 25m | ||||
Kobe's eerste lead.
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4 | ★ Les bonbons - with Bart | |||||
6a | ★★ Tribitotechnique - with Kobe | 4 | ||||
5a | ★★ L'ivrogne - with Kobe | |||||
5b+ | ★★★ Massart ne donne pas de noms (14. Sans nom) - with Bart | 20m | ||||
Sun 6th Dec 2020 - Olloy | ||||||
6a | ★★ Le Pilier Masqué 2 (Le dièdre masqué) - with Pieter Piens | 15m, 6 | ||||
Look harder than expected in the cold (2°C), and I chose to abandon a green point attempt in favor of a more controlled warm up.
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★★ Sofieke de Schildpad (La mains land) - with Pieter Piens | 15m, 5 | ||||
Wow, looked way harder than expected, but probably harder due to cold and wetness. Happy to have redpointed it.
|
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5c | ★★ Gabriel's Oboe (Géometrie variable) - with Pieter Piens | 15m, 7 | ||||
5b+ | ★★ Unknown 1 - with Pieter Piens | 15m, 7 | ||||
5b | ★★ Unknown 2 - with Pieter Piens | 15m, 9 | ||||
5c | ★★ Unknown 4 - with Pieter Piens | 15m, 5 | ||||
Sun 18th Oct 2020 - Flône | ||||||
6a 5c+ | With or Without Friends - with Shana, klimfamilia | 15m | ||||
smooth
|
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Rochers du Castel | ||||||
Castel 5 | ||||||
5c+ 5b+ | ★★ Loss and Profit - with brent | 15m, 5 | ||||
5c | ★★ Duo - with brent | 20m, 6 | ||||
5a | ★ William Dalton - with brent | 20m, 5 | ||||
6a 6a+ | 5.05 - with brent | 15m, 5 | ||||
Didn't manage to put the 2nd draw in while climbing
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Fri 2nd Oct 2020 - Donautal | ||||||
Falkenwand | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Ameisenweg - with Pieter Piens | 40m, 10 | ||||
Did the book say: do not follow the chimney all the way up? Whoops. Fun tradding in the chimney though, and a feisty warm up.
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6+ | ★★ Paula Petra - with Pieter Piens | 32m, 9 | ||||
Pieter's Nemesis of the day... He fought really hard! The bolts are far apart for us and he's not comfortable placing gear but made a lot of progress! He went up, felt instantly pumped, placed some stuff, took some rests, felt pumped again,... a lot of mind barriers. Took him down for a coffee, sent him back up, he made a lot of progress but was well cooked arriving at the part where it started getting easy. He put in great work! I flashed it and it felt really ok for me, placing some extra gear, the placements are there, the holds are there, I felt good sending it and the last bite before the anchor is really intense
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6- | Sigmaringer Kamin - with Pieter Piens | 35m, 5 | ||||
What a stunning line! Incredible... So much lovely cam and nut placements. The roof can be well protected and climbed, even the easy section above lends itself to gracious movement. Pieter tore some rocks off, that was cool.
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Wed 30th Sep 2020 - Donautal | ||||||
Schaufels Normalweg | ||||||
6 |
★★★ Leere Welt
- with
Pieter Piens
1
2
3
| 90m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First portaledge experience! The first pitch was spicy and more polished then expected. Took a nice fall to warm up the spirits. Also took an unexpected fall when hauling, what a scare! Good that the backup rope was there Second pitch was also a good lead for me, Pieter wasn't in for it. Started mounting the portaledge by deep dusk, went pretty smooth after all. We went down for food and riesling on a single rope expecting to "have a highway to our bed after dinner". Pieter jumared his way up in maybe 25 minutes, getting there with a lot of swearing using his improvised jumaring setup. I top tope solo'd it up but also had a hard time after the day and the riesling. Good sleep, chilly though. Remember not to pee next to the anchor! First poop tube experience! Pieter led the last pitch the next morning. Good riddance!
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Thu 24th Sep 2020 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Hauensteiner Gebiet Burghaldefels | ||||||
6+ | ★ Weiße Katze - with Shana | |||||
Short, cool, creative. Nice first Rendez-vous with the Pfalz rock.
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Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Berdorf | ||||||
S.I.P. | ||||||
5c | ★ Réta - with Shana | 10m, 5 | ||||
Felt very, very smooth, I told Shana it was the first route that felt like focused cruisin'.
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5b | Arête Familiale (Arrête Familiale) - with Shana | 10m, 5 | ||||
Felt hard for a 5b! I wasn't too comfy!
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Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Berdorf | ||||||
Remoise | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Oestrogènes - with Shana | 21m, 7 | ||||
Can you use the other wall for 3D climbing? If yes, definitely not 6b but loads of fun, if not, well, whatever. We checked the sunset from above... beautiful.
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Philosoff - with Shana | 21m, 8 | ||||
I sent it way to pumpy and bumpy but managed somehow. Amazing texture of the rock, so beautiful.
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Mon 14th Sep 2020 - Berdorf | ||||||
Takla Makan | ||||||
5c | ★★ Sachsenriss - with Shana | 16m, 8 | ||||
Felt hard for a 5C, even though it wasn't, felt that I was climbing technical but not with ease of mind...
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Mon 14th Sep 2020 - Berdorf | ||||||
Tempête | ||||||
4b 4c | ★ Coin - with Shana | 20m, 11 | ||||
First touch of Berdorf rock: feels very creative and unlike anything else. Hard to read, because it all looks great from a distance.
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6b 6b+ | ★ A Sing duerch de Mëllerdall (Sing duerch de Mëllerdall) - with Shana | 16m, 5 | ||||
A bit hard to read what you can and cannot do, the route was a bit to ambiguous for me... Leaves me wit a doubt whether I 'earned' the ascent - how to get rid of gradeism... ?
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Rochers de Moha | ||||||
Le Toit | ||||||
6c | ★★ Sépulcreuse Bérénice de Nice - with Shana | |||||
When going back with the dog a while back
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Sat 22nd Aug 2020 - Plain des Fosses | ||||||
Le Rocher du Canal | ||||||
6b | ★★ Voir - with Shana | |||||
After Shana tried it I cleaned it and got my red point in.
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6b+ | ★★ Cachemire - with Shana | |||||
Awesome.
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Hotton | ||||||
Rochers de Rénissart | ||||||
5c 5c+ | La Moscovite - with Sofie | |||||
This one is rated harder for no significant reason IMO.
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5b | Le Départ Gaston - with Sofie | |||||
A good practice in placing shit gear. Decided to back up maybe three shitty cams with a draw in the bolt.
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5c | ★★ La Colombe - with Sofie | |||||
Feisty warm up, technical reading of the route.
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5c | La Stalingrad - with Sofie | |||||
Hard to read middle section, these types of routes a very harsh on a misreading of the sequence! Had to RP because Sofie didn't feel like it.
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Sun 5th Jul 2020 - Flône | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Hotel California - with Pieter Piens | |||||
A joy to greenpoint. Long and fair trad climbing, a good variety of placement options! Great warm-up.
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Sun 28th Jun 2020 - Plain des Fosses | ||||||
Rocher de la Nausée | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Paratonnerre (variante de départ) - with Shana | |||||
Took shanss some attempts to figure out what and where. It's not very clear. Nice climbing though! And many options to be creative.
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Mon 15th Jun 2020 - Rocher du Trou Magritte | ||||||
6a | First-left outside - with Shana | |||||
Good route, beta proved to be useful.
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Mon 15th Jun 2020 - Rochers de Moha | ||||||
Le Toit | ||||||
5b+ | Le Prince Minouche - with Shana | |||||
Nice route, good holds when you go look for them.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Naheulbreuk pour une blonde (bien moussue) - with Shana | |||||
End of the day effort to get some more climbing from an already installed top rope. Beautiful route and very cashable because it's short. Next time
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Mon 15th Jun 2020 - Rochers de Moha | ||||||
Le Moulin | ||||||
5c | L'Assaut Direct - with Shana | |||||
warm up
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Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Rocher de Régissa | ||||||
5b | 42. Les Cigares du Pharaon - with Shana | 5 | ||||
Cool trad ascent, used one bolt where it got tricky because of loose rock.
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6a | ★★ 54. La Soulanne - with Shana | |||||
Tricky crux but apart from that good cruising in the last sunlight.
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Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Plain des Fosses | ||||||
Le Jardin Secret | ||||||
5 | Confidences pour Confidences - with Pieter Piens, Shana | |||||
When it turns to be so hard to find the secret garden and this is all you find... it's kind of funny. Reachy, very uncomfortable start, hard-ish for me and hard for tiny people. We started the day about 1pm and got back down around 5.. What happened? Good fun though with good people.
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Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Beez | ||||||
Massif de la Liedekerke Été Indien | ||||||
5c | ★ L'Eté Indien - with Pieter Piens | 50m, 9 | ||||
30 Years ago this must have been of stunning beauty, now the polishedness of it makes it a bit less aesthetic. The polished start doesn't allow for very elegant climbing IMO, unless you're super comfortable at this grade. But the rest of the route makes up for the (nonetheless choreographically impressive) start, and I just love long sustained routes. Pieter got the brain chills halfway through; good practice material.
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5c+ | L'Alfred - with Pieter Piens | |||||
I had read the second pitch to be 6-something and it felt like that but maybe not anyway nice long climb, great fun. Had a chat with Vicky on the way up. The first 10m were hard for me to read and execute. I downclimbed three tims or so to a perfect rest. Eerlijk duurt het langst/de aanhouder wint?
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Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Beez | ||||||
Massif de la Liedekerke Bières | ||||||
5a+ | La vieille villers | 50m, 5 | ||||
This has to be Belgium's finest warm-up route... Incredibly beautiful!
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Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Beez | ||||||
Massif de la Liedekerke Dalle du Zich | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Le hasard de la nécessité (Le Hasard de la Necessite) - with Pieter Piens, chiara, PJ | |||||
What a way to end the day. A superb mental training because of the old school spacy bolting. I ended up chaining up at the anchor of the route right next to it, elvislegging like a ballroom dancer, but I claim this as an onsight because the real anhcor is hidden in the weeds just a meagre .5m away, with great rock around. Beautiful sustained climbing on what is now considered far too few bolt makes for an excellent reiteration of what 6a+ means when you don't feel the comfort of modern style comfort-bolting. A great reminder of my everyman's vertigo.
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Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Rochers du Néviau | ||||||
Secteur Central | ||||||
5 | L'Astragale - with Pieter Piens | |||||
For all of it's slipperiness and for the ballsy traversyenot an easy five, but what a rare beauty of choreography for a line on Belgian rock. Unprecendented.
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Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Rochers du Néviau | ||||||
Secteur Super Vol & Yeti | ||||||
5b | Super Pili-pili Variante - with Pieter Piens | |||||
Funky start and slippery finish. Got a very nice nut wedged perfectly, oh how it adds to the fun...
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Sat 23rd May 2020 - Rochers de Mozet | ||||||
Arendsmassief / Rocher de l'Aigle | ||||||
5a 5a+ | ★ 38. Geit (Geit) - with Shana | |||||
5c | ★★★ Vos - with Shana | |||||
Fri 22nd May 2020 - Rochers du Castel | ||||||
Castel 1 | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Devils' slab - with Shana | 15m, 6 | ||||
4c | Magnésie connection - with Shana | 15m | ||||
5c | ★★ Adaptation (Adaption) - with Shana | |||||
6a | ★★ Signes de Ex - with Shana | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 22nd May 2020 - Rochers du Castel | ||||||
Castel 5 | ||||||
5c+ 5b+ | ★★ Loss and Profit - with Shana | 15m, 5 | ||||
6a+ 6a | 5.2 - with Shana | 18m | ||||
Thu 21st May 2020 - Rochers de Mozet | ||||||
Steenbokmassief / Rocher du Bouquetin | ||||||
5c | 110. Beest (Beest) - with Shana | |||||
5b | ★ 112. Salamander (Salamander) - with Shana | |||||
Sun 27th Oct 2019 - Rochers du Paradou | ||||||
La Grande Dalle | ||||||
5a+ | Chickengate | |||||
Mi first rope solo, yay!
|
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6b+ |
★★★ La Dalle Impériale
1
6b
2
6b+
| |||||
Did two laps of the 2 pitches combined. Cool route, perfect for rope solo and a good set of very hard slabwork with nice fissures alog the way to catch your breath. Did the first pitch clean the second time around, fell of on some cruxy bits on the second pitch. Was good to practice switching to grigri to retake the secod pitch from the start a couple of times. Sore feet at the end, man! Has to be a killer route to lead this.
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Sat 5th Oct 2019 - Hotton | ||||||
Rochers aval | ||||||
5b | ★ Les Croulants - with Pieter Piens, Carnal, Sofie | 5 | ||||
5c 6a | ★ le Mimi - with Pieter Piens, Carnal, Sofie | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 5th Oct 2019 - Hotton | ||||||
Rochers de Rénissart | ||||||
6a | ★★★ La Fourchette - with Pieter Piens | 13m | ||||
Sun 22nd Sep 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
El Puro | ||||||
6b+ |
Directa
- with
Ramon
1
5+
30m
2
6b+
30
3
6a
30
| 90m | ||||
I personally think the crux is overbolted... There's a beautiful crack leading up but the bolts are placed to the right and turnb the crack into an unused beauty. I think we should leave these routes to be hard and traddy, in stead of democratizing the difficulty by suggesting diverging off the natural line...
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Fri 20th Sep 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
Dexter | ||||||
6b | ★★ Trinity - with Roger, Oscar, Ricard | 16m | ||||
6b | ★★ The Big Bang Theory - with Roger, Oscar, Ricard | 19m | ||||
6a | Dexter - with Roger, Oscar, Ricard | 12m | ||||
Very malicious start... horrible for warming up.
|
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Mon 16th Sep 2019 - Revilla | ||||||
Revilla Village | ||||||
5b+ | ★★ Insight - with pieter-jan, chiara | 18m, 8 | ||||
Fri 13th Sep 2019 - Revilla | ||||||
Revilla Village | ||||||
6a | ★★ Old school - with pieter-jan, chiara, laura, ruben | 17m | ||||
6a | No Name I - with pieter-jan, chiara, laura, ruben | 20m | ||||
5a+ | ★ No Name II - with pieter-jan, chiara, laura, ruben | ★ Good | ||||
5a+ | ★★ No Name IX - with pieter-jan, chiara, laura, ruben | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
Kuestelon la France | ||||||
6a+ | Buscabrega - with Adri, Judith, Leo | 12m | ||||
Sat 7th Sep 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
Paret del davant | ||||||
6c |
Ondokoa
- with
Cesar, Ariadna, Pepe
1
6b
30m
2
6c
20m
| 50m | ||||
Sat 7th Sep 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
Crestes de conill Cara nord | ||||||
6b | Only You - with Judith, Pau, Maria | 20m | ||||
6c | ★★★ La Niña - with Judith, Pau, Maria | 30m |