Routes in Europe for selected grade

World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.

Repetitions

• 2001 Bernd Zangerl (8C)
• 2002 Dave Graham, Chris Sharma
• 2003 Cristian Core
• 2004 Malcolm Smith (V14)
• 2005 Koyamada Dai (8B+/V14), Nalle Hukkataival
• 2007 Killian Fischhuber
• 2009 Adam Ondra (8B+)
• 2013 Jan Hojer (8C/V15)
• 2018 Jimmy Webb , Jakob Schubert
• 2020 Kim Marschner, Alex Megos, Yannick Flohe

Links

• German Article about the problem

Sit start.

The original route was bolted in 1993 by Alexander Huber. First ascension: Alexander Huber in 1994. Assigned grade was 8c+ (length: 35 m).

Daniel Andrada added a 6 m extension and the climb is known as La Rambla/La Rambla Direct/La Rambla Extension. Grade: 9a+ (length: 41m).

This is the full length of La Rambla and includes the traverse after the first anchor. It connects to the anchor of La Reina Mora.

Climbed by Margo Hayes in 2017 making her the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+.

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A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

• Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
• Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• Sachi Amma
• Cédric Lachat
• Jakob Schubert
• Domen Škofic
• Magnus Midtbø
• Mateusz Haladaj
• Jonathan Siegrist
• Daniel Woods
• Matty Hong
• Piotr Schab
• Said Belhaj
• Klemen Bečan
• Patxi Usobiaga
• Jon Cardwell
• Felipe Camargo
• Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

• 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
• 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
• 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
• 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
• 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
• 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
• 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
• 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
• 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
• 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
• 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
• 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
• 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
• 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
• 2018, July, Piotr Schab
• 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
• 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
• 2020, Sébastien Bouin
• 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
• 2023, May, Matty Hong

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Shares anchor with "Nordic Plumber".

Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018).

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Starts with Noia and finishes some 70 moves later on Anaconda. Initially graded 9b but downgraded by Sébastien Bouin in 2023.

The #sd of 'Muttertag'

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The centre of the cave from back left.

Left start into 'Crackinette'.

A route of historic importance bolted by French local Quentin Chastagnier, FAed by Alex Megos and flashed by Adam Ondra, making it the first of the grade to be flashed (see Reel Rock 13).

According to Adam Ondra, the route doesn't have any real crux, just around 25-30 moves of very sustained hard and fingery climbing in a big overhang where the hardest section comes just before linking the direct start into the original Crackinette, and then you have to deal with the awkward 8b+ crack itself.

Variant of Llamps I Trons.

Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela.

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Sit start.

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Downgrade to 9a proposed by Sébastien Bouin .

Low start to "The Joker".

On the Yellow 26 boulder. SDS = 8B+

9a or 9a+ - Jorge Díaz-Rullo given a upgrade

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

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Pure Dreaming with start on Underground.

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Connection between 'St. Anger' and Zauberfee.

only combination - no additional bolts https://vimeo.com/142499746 (climber Alex Megos)

Starts with an 8B boulder and ends in Ali Hulk.

A long and steep overhanging line.

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prow

This route is the last part of the original multi-pitch crossing the cave. It's going from the joint anchor of Nordic Plumber / Thor's Hammer to the lip of the roof.

To the first anchor of Change.

The full length of Open Your Mind Direct with its 15m extension.

The grade of this route varied from an initial 9a+ to 9a/9a+ or even 9a. After the ascent by Mateusz Haladaj a hold broke and Ashima Shiraishi was the first to repeat the route after that. Since then the consensus is at 9a/9a+.

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Adam Ondra thinks the route is hard 9a rather than 9a+, and proposes a slash grade would be best until it has seen more repeats.

A 60 meters long endurance challenge that connects three routes. 'Pata Negra' at the beginning, the crux of 'No pain no gain' and ends at the lower off of 'Botanics'.

Downgrade to 9a+ proposed by Sébastien Bouin and to 9a+/9b by Martin Tekles in 2023.