Ascents in Erzgebirge by Melwin Quacke

Solid rock, not too sharp. Consistent grade. Some Trad pro recommended.

Somewhat inconvenient for the last one to get down below the anchors.

Some loose stuff on the ledges, wear a helmet.

Nice moves, not overprotected. Crux is getting to flake.

Dirty, crumbly, sharp, vegetated, hard.

Somewhat dusty, but mostly solid. Almost goes clean.

The further right you go, the harder it gets.

Crumbly with lots of sharp crystals.

Short power moves, needs cleaning beforehand.

place at stopper before the first bolt to protect the lower crux

some lichens at the base, but better the higher you get

technical moves

somewhat vegetated at the end

sketchy start, bring some stopper or cam

very homogeneous and well protected; interesting finishing moves

single move crux, very defined: don't use right side of flake where the second bolt is

crumbly at top

crumbly at top

vegetated and sharp crystals. Probably V, until crux arete between bolt 6 and 7. No anchor, use pine for belay or walk off.

Pulling three large mossy handholds to vegetated summit, harder than it looks.

well-protectable and reasonably clean until bolt, then mossy but easier.

requires cleaning. Small stopper can protect clipping the first bolt. Hard to reach second bolt.

clean except for final moves, rather bring stoppers than cams.

classic crack line

nice moves, but dirty. Bring extra pro

hard start, beautiful balance riddles

direct start is not that hard and straightforward.

reachy clip at first roof, cool moves, bring extra pro for final roof

lots of stemming

we found this dirty and greasy halfway up, so bailed out.

clean rock, very entertaining.

Somewhat polished holds. Not that straightforward between first and second bolt - at least at 28°C.

bailed out at last bolt hard, being too hard to clip for this grade and slightly off right.

tricky move past first bulge

some lichens, but not too bad, technical

very versatile climbing. Don't fear the apparent runout to the bolt under the roof - there are large holds. Tricky balance moves out of the crack into the slab and past the bulge, the latter well protected.

Impressive route. Thank-god leg-jam just below the lid of the roof. Watch out, the crux handhold (flake after edge of roof) makes unnerving noise - don't rip it off!

Very defined: without grabbing the right-hand edge, it is harder than 7-.

sharp crystals