Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Liebethaler Grund | ||||||
Garten Westteil | ||||||
6 Hard | ★★ Schwarzer Streifen - with Danilo Hondo | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5- | ★ Wahnsinnig dreckige Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
6+ Easy | ★★ Kante im Morgenlicht - with Danilo Hondo | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6 Hard | ★ Schiefes Leben - with Danilo Hondo | 10m, 5 | ||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Dornbusch-Gruppe Nymphenwand | ||||||
7+ | Ecopoint ★ Polarkreis - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
good jugs where you need them, stay left of scar
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8- | Ecopoint ★ Immer an der Wand lang - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
consistent small moves, not obvious
|
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Dornbusch-Gruppe Dornbusch | ||||||
5+ Hard | Ecopoint ★★★ Triumphkante - with Danilo Hondo | 35m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
not too much pro
|
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Kleppergrund Kleppergrundwächter | ||||||
7 | Ecopoint ★★ Lass die Seele baumeln - with Danilo Hondo | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
huge jugs, some brittle, start is crux
|
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5+ | Ecopoint Traum aus Stein - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Damp and vegetated
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7- | Ecopoint ★ Angst essen Seele auf - with Danilo Hondo | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
demanding ropework, nice moves, some loose brittle
|
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Ostufer Elsterwand | ||||||
6- | Ecopoint Saubermann - with Danilo Hondo | 30m | Average | |||
Nice moves over the overhangs, but the rest is a bit too vegetated.
|
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Nelkenstein-Gruppe Nelkenstein | ||||||
6- Hard | Ecopoint ★★ Sprengung - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | Average | |||
unclear start
|
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5+ | Ecopoint ★★ Direkte Nelkensteinwand - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
long and continuous
|
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7 Easy | Ecopoint ★★ Weihnachtsmann - with Danilo Hondo | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
powerful move past first bolt, then plaisir
|
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7- Hard | Ecopoint ★★ Kraftprobe - with Danilo Hondo | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
Pre-clipped sketchy clip of first bolt from loose jug. Following flakes pasted on seem to hold.
|
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Nelkenstein-Gruppe Nelkenstein | ||||||
6 | Ecopoint ★★ Geburtstagsgeschenk - with Danilo Hondo | 26m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6 | Ecopoint ★★ Lineal - with Danilo Hondo | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
less homogeneous
|
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6 | Ecopoint ★★★ Herrenspaziergang - with Danilo Hondo | 23m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
protect first clip with sling from tree
|
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7- | Ecopoint ★★ Kreuzweg - with Danilo Hondo | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
great easier alternative start of Staubfinger
|
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Oberes Göltzschtal | ||||||
Wendelstein Wendelsteinplatte | ||||||
5+ | Ecopoint ★ Trau dich - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
6- | Ecopoint ★★ Turboreibung - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not as monotonous as it looks, but interesting right to the top.
|
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5+ Hard | Ecopoint ★ ISS - with Danilo Hondo | 24m | ★ Good | |||
don't get lost
|
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Oberes Göltzschtal | ||||||
Wendelstein Wendelsteinturm | ||||||
7 Hard | Ecopoint Walhalla - with Danilo Hondo | 5m | ||||
use the big jug to the right. Powermoves.
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7+ | Ecopoint ★★ Scheiterhaufen - with Danilo Hondo | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
loose crux hold still ok
|
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6+ Hard | Ecopoint ★ Hexentanz - with Danilo Hondo | 7m | ★ Good | |||
crimpy
|
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Oberes Göltzschtal | ||||||
Lohberg | ||||||
7- | Ecopoint ★★ Steinbeißer - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7 Easy | Ecopoint Talfahrt - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ||||
powerful at the start
|
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6- | Ecopoint ★ Himmelfahrt - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Holzbachtal | ||||||
Holzbachzacke | ||||||
6 | Ecopoint ★ Zackenbarsch - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
crazy rock features
|
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6- | Ecopoint Winkelmann - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
don't bother, too much moss
|
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Holzbachtal | ||||||
Kuhstall | ||||||
6 | Ecopoint ★ Schwedentrunk - with Danilo Hondo | ★ Good | ||||
steep
|
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5- Hard | Ecopoint Gockelores - with Danilo Hondo | |||||
reachy
|
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7- | Ecopoint ★★ 1639 - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
traversing low is the key
|
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7 | Ecopoint ★ Schwedenfeuer - with Danilo Hondo | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
hard not to use dihedral
|
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4+ | ★ Pulverdampf - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5+ | Ecopoint ★ Folterknecht - with Danilo Hondo | 6m | ★ Good | |||
juggy
|
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5 | Ecopoint ★ Hinterhalt - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Wegewart | ||||||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ Kleinod - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Eisenbahnbrückenpfeiler | ||||||
5 | Ecopoint ★ Nordwestpfeiler, AW - with Danilo Hondo | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhat inconvenient for the last one to get down below the anchors.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Eibenstock Tunnelnadel | ||||||
6+ | Croissant - with Danilo Hondo | 9m, 3 | ||||
6- | Stilles Wasser - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Eisenbahnerbruch | ||||||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ Wer kennt die Regeln? - with Danilo Hondo | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Some loose stuff on the ledges, wear a helmet.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Eibenstock Tunnelnadel | ||||||
7+ | Ecopoint ★ Schokoladenseite - with Danilo Hondo | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves, not overprotected. Crux is getting to flake.
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7- ~7- | Ecopoint Schinderhannes - with Danilo Hondo | Don't Bother | ||||
Dirty, crumbly, sharp, vegetated, hard.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Bockau Siebenschläfer | ||||||
6 Hard | Ecopoint ★★ Für Knab und Knecht - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ Super Nova - with Danilo Hondo | 6 | ★ Good | |||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ M&M - with Danilo hondo | 4 | ★ Good | |||
5 | Ecopoint ★ Schlampe - with Danilo hondo | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhat dusty, but mostly solid. Almost goes clean.
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7 | Ecopoint ★ Skyline - with Danilo Hondo | 6 | ★ Good | |||
The further right you go, the harder it gets.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Bockau Bockauer Wurzelspitze | ||||||
7- | Ecopoint Langzeitstudie - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Short power moves, needs cleaning beforehand.
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Lüerdisser Klippen Mauerhakenturmmassiv | ||||||
6 ~6- | ★★ Gelber Pfeiler | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much easier than it looks.
|
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6 | ★★ Gelbe Kante direkt | 12m, 2 | ||||
i guess the right edge is off-limits?
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4 Easy | ★ Bohrteufel | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
great beginner's lead.
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5 Hard | ★★ Reha-Kante | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
uncomfy clip at second bolt.
|
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5 Hard | ★ Bresche | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Don't use the precarious fossil near bolt 2 for protection!
|
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Holzener Klippen Rotesteineck | ||||||
7- Hard | ★★ Original - with Lina | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Balancy moves around the corner, reachy towards the ledge. Bring a piece of webbing to use a thread to protect the final bulge.
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Scharfoldendorfer Klippen Kinaststein | ||||||
5+ | ★ Direkte Westwand | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A bit loose below the overhang, but nice moves.
|
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5- | ★ NN 4 | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Well protected.
|
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5+ | ★ NN3 Variante | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Direct start probably a bit harder.
|
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7 | ★★ NN 3 | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Amazing high foothook.
|
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Lüerdisser Klippen Haderturm | ||||||
7 Hard | Fred vom Jupiter - with Lina | 2 | ★ Good | |||
reachy start with poor footholds
|
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Östliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Unten ohne | 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
delicate one-move problem
|
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7- | ★★★ Café International | 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Feels natural.
|
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5 | ★★ ?3 (Krise?) | 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Starts with small holds, then holds get juggy but reachy.
|
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7- | ★★ Schinkenspicker | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
reachy, somewhat disappointing finish
|
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Pik Lobetal | ||||||
6 Hard | ★★ Zauberberg | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky start
|
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6 Easy | ★★ Blungo 2 | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easier if you use the edge.
|
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6- | ★ Blungo 1 | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Unterharz | ||||||
Steinbachtal Coronabruch (Der Linksobere) | ||||||
6 | ★★ Osterspaziergang | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
bouldery start, crux before ledge, strange and brittle at top
|
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6- | ★ Machbar, Herr Nachbar | 13m, 3 | Average | |||
sharp corner
|
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5+ 5 | ★ Ja May | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
stemming dusty ledges
|
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6- | ★★ Zwei Sternchen | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
good holds all the way
|
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6 | ★★ Die Alten können es nicht lassen | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
sustained technical difficulties
|
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7- | ★★ Quantensprung | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Needs to be scrubbed squeeky clean before trying. I failed with the sharp holds and dusty friction footholds.
|
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5+ 5 | ★ Blutige Wange | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
stemming dusty ledges
|
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5- | ★ Verschneidung ohne Baum | 15m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty, loose rocks on final ledge. If you want toprope this route, consider using last bolt as anchor.
|
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Thu 2nd Sep 2021 - Unterharz | ||||||
Steinbachtal Der Zweite | ||||||
6 6- | ★★ Bleib Locker - with Torsten | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat reachy at 2nd bolt
|
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8- | ★★ Gaußsche Glockenkurve - with Torsten | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
unorthodox moves
|
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6 | ★ Oktoberfest - with Torsten | 20m, 2 | Average | |||
single-move crux
|
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7- | ★★★ Pendeltür - with Torsten | 19m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
aptly named, consistently interesting
|
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6+ 6 | ★★ Danke Horst - with Torsten | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
a bit too crispy in places
|
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4+ 4 | ★★ Fünf Strolche - with Torsten | 20m, 4 | Average | |||
somewhat awkward starting moves for this grade
|
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6- | [rechte Kante] - with Torsten | 17m, 4 | Average | |||
demands some flexibility
|
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal | ||||||
Rollefelsen Lok | ||||||
6+ 6 | ★ Eumelvariante - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | ★ Good | |||
place at stopper before the first bolt to protect the lower crux
|
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal | ||||||
Rollefelsen Männerrolle | ||||||
7+ 7- | ★★ Plaisir - with Danilo Hondo | ★★ Very Good | ||||
technical moves
|
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal | ||||||
Rollefelsen Mädelrolle | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Kombination - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat vegetated at the end
|
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6+ | ★★ Südostkante - with Danilo Hondo | 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
sketchy start, bring some stopper or cam
|
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7- 6+ | ★★ Midnight Lady - with Danilo Hondo | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
very homogeneous and well protected; interesting finishing moves
|
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7 | ★ Herbstsolo - with Danilo Hondo | 3 | ★ Good | |||
single move crux, very defined: don't use right side of flake where the second bolt is
|
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Holzberg Sonnenplatte | ||||||
7 | ★ Mütze - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Reachy and some sand in some holds.
|
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Holzberg Valentinstag | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Verklemmt geklemmt - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Solid hand jams as soon as you get to the crack. Pure fun.
|
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6+ | ★★★ Valentinstag - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Small stepped "ramp" offers surprisingly good holds. Stunning finish.
|
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5 | ★ Aufschwung West - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Committing and reachy move to get the edge.
|
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7- | ★★ Richtung Unendlichkeit - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good stemming is the key.
|
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Holzberg Bohrlochwand | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Die Krönung - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Delicated somewhat reachy move in the final headwall.
|
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6- | ★★ Es lebe die S-Bahn - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 35m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool moves paste the overhang.
|
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6 | Froschkönigin - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 28m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat cramped
|
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5 | Kurze Sache - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Easy except for the final move to the ledge.
|
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6 | ★★ Viva España - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Treat the big block and the loose handhold in the final headwall carefully!
|
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Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Gaudlitzberg Rissplatte | ||||||
7- 6+ | ★ Little Big Crack | 15m, 6 | ★ Good |