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Ascent of Alte Nebelsteiner

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Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 12th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Nebelsteiner Wand
5+ Alte Nebelsteiner - with asn Sport 35m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
The first route here, with two possible finish options. Starts in the obvious crack in the east face, up onto the vibrating flake, then at the big old ring, a hard move to the right gets you onto the slab and into the traverse. From there, the original route leads up in the crack around the corner, but that finish was even eliminated from the guidebook in the later editions, because the other one is "easier" (but involves a rope tension downwards traverse into "Schwedenriss", so … well …). This original finish has been equipped with Bühler bolts and an anchor, also leading to confusion in the guidebooks. The crack might be a little harder than 5+ by today's standards, but still fun. All in all a great journey. Can be done in one pitch if the gear is properly extended.

 

Showing all 1 ascent.

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