Finally! I couldn't recall any of my past beta, so it took one attempt to figure it out again, then another one to make all the mistakes and fail horribly, and a third where I finally just committed to my dyno solution without clipping first. Fun!
Marvellous, long climb, beautiful moves and better rock quality than it seems, splendid pockets especially in the top section. Distinct crux after a few meters with either a difficulttraverse to a sidepull flake, or directly to the bolt via small crimps and mono pockets. Another tricky passage around two thirds of the way up with two smaller holds. The rest of the route is just homogeneous pulling on positive holds, a real treat! First 9- climbed in puffy jacket.
With that one quickdraw already in, clipping is no problem. And if you know where to go, it's a nice, long climb. It even felt a bit too easy to me, probably because it's mainly about endurance. There's an actual ammonite near the last bolt!
Dritten Haken etwas überstreckt geklippt. Besser nach der Querung nachklippen. Crux zum großen Loch, stabilisieren mit nachgesetztem Hook. Ins Loch am besten über die linke Kante mandlen.No-Hand-Rest. Im weiteren Verlauf den Lochzangengriff mit links um Weit hoch zur Seitleiste zu gelangen. Hier klippen. Der Rest ist drannbleiben.
PP im dritten Versuch. 1.Crux in den Untergriff beim 4.H reinzukommen.Danach einmal schlechten Griff (3Finger Spalt,re unten) mit links blockieren und rechts in die griffige Seitschuppe (Klippgriff lt.H)
I couldn't recall any of my past beta, so it took one attempt to figure it out again, then another one to make all the mistakes and fail horribly, and a third where I finally just committed to my dyno solution without clipping first. Fun!
