Ascents in Armeos as Hang dog by Lee Cujes

Got on this specifically to get punished, and that did happen. However I will say that I think a key hold has crumbled away affecting the crux sequence. It's the inset, circular crimp up and right of the potatoes. The heavily manufactured holds on this route really need glue to stabilise them.

Gearing up.

One quick burn. Crux felt a bit sketchy.

Fell off the final move again at the 50m mark. Gutted. Found better foot beta.

Second go and actually fell just before the anchor on the first pitch. Smoked. Good fitness training though!

Got to the crux move on the onsight, 1 bolt from the top, 50m up. Just immense.

Onsight to halfway, then a bit of a battle. Super technical slab/wall climbing. So impressive that this sees many onsights. People are cool.

Fell not much higher than the anchor trying to onsight. Actually, there were several sections which for me were un-onsightable.

After Paris Texas, needed something to do. This looked promising. Fell on devious low crux.

More breeze today and the setup holds felt 25% bigger

Felt like 8b in the heat. But srsly, this thing is nails.

Kind of ruined my golden onsight record in the cave. One very bouldery move.

Repeat. Was going for the new route Manou Chou which splits off this. However found myself too high and just kept going. Could touch the anchor but not clip. Thank god I've onsighted it previously.

Noooo! My first nonsight of this sector. Boooo. I'm not fit for endless jugs, but it'll come.

Got to the top wall and got brutally shut down. Seemed impossible.

Whoa! You really have to bone down on some tiny holds on this one. I made it through the lower crux section only to be foiled by a rogue tickmark. Gaaaahh!

It was one of those "I'll just put the gear on. Well, maybe I'll go for it" and ended up getting about 4m to the top. Pockets were all wet, I was slipping all over the shop. Fun and crazy fight.

Back on the wagon again.

Tough unit. Super pumpy. 10m fall.

Fell going to the tennis-ball pocket.

Fell on the opening of the crux.

Putting the gear up, re-working things.

Fell on the LAST bolt on the onsight. Destroyed! Super happy to have got that far onsight.

Can't do 6c. Do 7c instead.

Got to the crux hanging the draws which I was pretty pleased with actually.

Sun was coming in, but I fell on my crux at 2/3 height.

Wow! Looked impossible from above so had to give it a try. Mega body position climbing on slopey death holds. I'm intrigued.

Got wrong handed. Also had to install a fallen-off hanger. Kaly, please move to glue-ins. Pretty please.

Onsight to final tufa, then a harsh smackdown.

Anchor broken, needs complete replacement.

Quick end of the day onsight attempt. Failed, but in a spectacular way. Maybe next try?

Soapy conditions = virtually impossible. Dogged the shit out of it. Felt like 8b.

Should have done it this try.

Had a vague look at this before it was in the current guidebook, looked evil.

3 burns. Felt strong. Almost got foot across to R wall on 2nd burn. 4 inches maybe. Next year!

Couple falls. Doable 2nd shot

Fell on the crux! Damn slab!

2 burns. Fell on the finale.

Couldn't do crux today, exhausted by 3rd try (3 burns).

Wasp in the face, wasp on the pants, wasp dead, bolt fall off. Venga Lee Venga! (2 burns)

Really hard, especially when exhausted.

YESSS! Did the crux twice cleanly in thunderstorm 1 burn.

2 burns. One hanged the second burn.

1 burn. Lots of tries of crux. Got foot across a few times but couldn’t transition

Got off route, then crux smashed me. Did all moves to top.

2 burns. To top, but not figured transition to right wall.

Well, what can I say? Overhyped for starters, bloody Gresham. Secondly, there's a blank patch so what's he done? Drilled a mono pocket. Yes, it is drilled. An my frikkin finger doesn't fit in properly. HB would have no chance. Train L-hand monos if you want this tick.