Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7a | ★★★ DNA — 2 attempts | 20m | |||||
dropped before anchor both attempts
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Stankill | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Stelios | 38m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lang und schön
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Ivory Tower | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Bloc Volant | 20m | |||||
Am Ende wird's noch einmal spannend
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6a+ | ★ Am Abgrund | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Vor dem Umlenker abgegriffen
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Milianos Cave | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Five Tena Lady | 18m, 8 | |||||
Book 6b+
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6a | ★ Pink Mist | 15m | |||||
Also: Pink Mist Ext 6a 20m Lead Onsight
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7a | ★★★ DNA — 2 attempts - with Wei Gao | 20m | |||||
First attempt to set draws
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7a+ | ★★★ Ivi - with Kesh, Asti | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Beautiful sustained climbing to a strenuous crux. Then a bad sit-wrap-around rest, followed by a steep kneebar-assisted jug haul to the anchors Stoked that these first-try 5.12s are becoming a thing!!
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7c | ★★★ Aegialis — 2 attempts - with Kesh, Asti | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
New highpoint, well past half the climb! Linked it in 4 sections, including a super long one to the anchors. So pumped, everywhere, and especially in the calves. Felt like I was gonna puke from the pump!
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Sea Breeze White Wine Wall | |||||||
5c | ★★ Regensburg - with Wei Gao | 150m | |||||
My intro to MP. Little adventure that finished at 10pm
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Griffig | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Timba Climber — 3 attempts | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit of everything. Strong start to a good rest followed by a technical crux. Felt great to send
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Comic Tree | |||||||
6c ~6c | ★★★ Polly - with Étienne | 27m | |||||
Actually a tricky 6c.
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Noúfaro Main | |||||||
7c+ | ★★ Themelio — 4 attempts | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thought this would go easily second go, then managed to stuff up the crux multiple times.
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6c | ★★ Mantis | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Soapy conditions but nice warm up.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Ivi — 6 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mega route. Crux is demanding and strong. Lots of good rests after the crux
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Diagoras Cave | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Tale Quale | 20m, 9 | |||||
Definitely needs more traffic
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6b+ | ★★ Provatina | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
Needs more traffic
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Telendos Irox | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Kyprios Angel | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Physical, technical and exposed. One of the best at the grade
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Palionisos Secret Garden | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Ymer - with Esau | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I set this as a toprope for Esau. Bouldery and short. Took out some rock pieces, so wear a helmet!
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7a | ★★★ Ricounet - with Esau | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Right after setting the 6b+ for Esau, I headed to this one. I had eyed it when I was looking for climbs. Its chimney section looked so cool, so because we still had some time, I got on it. Hardish start, then techy climbing through most of the rest of the climb with stemmming, dropknees, and generally a lot more feet movement than hand movements. The end is pumpy. What a fantastic route!
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7a+ | ★★ Ballos - with Esau | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What. An. Area. This area is pretty darn beautiful from the ride from Masouri, to the approach, to getting there, to the climbs. The sea is right there, blessing with its calming sounds and breezes this beaufully sculpted wavey limestone decorated by tufas, stalactites, and cauliflowers. The movement on this one flows very nicely. For me, the crimpy section in the middle is the crux, which I dispatched diligently. Very, very stoked for this one! The setting was inspiring for sure!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Aphrodite — 2 attempts - with Esau | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
We woke up late and someone was already working on Aegialis, so I decided to get on this instead. Really cool, bouldery sequence on (at this point) slick crimps! I think I've lost some power from all the endurance climbing I've been doing. Enjoyed it a lot!
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Little Eden | |||||||
7a | ★★ Seventh Heaven | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rest day cameo. Excellent rock.
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Griffig | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Griffig Goes to Kalymnos | 36m, 19 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lang, lang, lang, herrliche Kletterei
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6b | ★★ Love Someone | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Unten Henkel oben Platte, tolle Route
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Afternoon | |||||||
4c | ★ Finger Piercing | 17m | |||||
Left: Megaburger 4c 18m Lead Onsight
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Summertime Summertime Main | |||||||
6a | ★★ Ammohostos Vasilevousa | 20m, 10 | |||||
One break
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Odyssey | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Feta | 18m | |||||
Polished. Bring a brush and be prepared to remove the excess chalk
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Afternoon | |||||||
5c | ★★ Au Revoir Là-Haut - with Esau | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Flowy straightforward climbing. I tried the extension which was not the aforementioned. It was sharp, cryptic, insecure, and just not what my body needed at that time, so I did what I don't do very often and bailed on it. Maybe another time
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7a+ | ★★★ Ermis Connecting Us — 2 attempts - with Esau | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty fun climbing on +/- a few degrees off vertical on long moves on pockets. Sequency and crimpy crux, but not too bad, maybe V3ish. Onsight was blown at the crux because of bad headspace and skin hurt. Rehearsed it and got it next go easily. Get on it!
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Aegialis - with Esau | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got on this the day after the Priapos send. Guess I was wrecked! Headspace and skin didn't help either. Bolts felt far away from each other. Skin hurt. I even somehow ended up with my foot full of bird poop. After I got to the chains after basically bolt-by-bolting this thing, I considered cleaning it, because it didn't feel like it could go this trip with the days I have left. I reasoned that I was just feeling bad, and that I should come try more rested and make up my mind then. This is gonna be a mega pumpfest from |-|311!
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Odyssey | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Ari Superdog — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Silly mistake on the OS. Fantastic climbing with a crux that can be done multiple ways.
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7b | ★★ Meltemi — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent climbing
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6c+ | ★★★ Satyros | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mega warm up
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7a+ | ★★ Elies — 2 attempts | 18m | Average | ||||
Anchor placement (even though it has been lowered now) still disturbs the flow and character of the climb overall. Significantly harder and very awkward to clip anchor if you’re shorter.
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Palionisos Heroes | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Dr. King | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Did some bizarre variation with Greek freak here
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7a | ★★ Captain Heelhook | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Short but fun
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Afternoon | |||||||
6c | ★★ Lady in Black Ext - with Esau | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice extension to a nice route. A bit sharp.
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7a+ | ★★ Morteau Rico Ext — 2 attempts - with Esau | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flowy first half. Second half is sharp, crimpy, but has its charm. Stoked to get it second go!
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Priapos — 4 attempts - with Esau | 40m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Beautiful climb. Just stunning in every way. The scenery, backdrop, phenomenality of the terran, movement, and more. First started projecting it on my second day in Kalymnos, the 9/9/2023, 2 attempts (onsight attempt almost cleared the hardest section), then 9/10/2023 also saw another attempt. Today, on a windy, perfect weather September day, I focused on breathing above all. After a fine elastic band warrm-up and stretching. Went out of my way to do things properly, as the sheer length of this climb I feel merits any methods that give you the fitness and focus to do all 40 or so meters of overhanging climbing. I made a concentrated effort to keep my breathing under control, and I managed to do it. On the rests, besides continuing my good breathing, I practiced a bit of mindfulness, following the advice from a pretty good article on resting on routes. I allowed myself a lot more easily to be thankful for where I was, and how beautiful and fun it is! I have never done a route quite as beautiful? Maybe only comparable in beauty to Lord of the Thais. Endurance climbing like this is surprisingly (or unsurprisingly hehe) meditative. I timed my rests with Esau. I took sweet and sour gummies to restore my blood sugar. It came down to the wire, too. I tried clipping the chains 3 times before I was actually able to clip the hard-to-move wiregates whilst managing 40m of rope drag meandering through a maze of stalactites. I kept breathing all the way through, climbed a bit higher, and sent. It was amazing.
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Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Kamari Symplegades | |||||||
5c | ★ Greek Salad | 15m | |||||
Also: Greek Salad Ext 5c 32m Lead Onsight
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5c | ★★ Climbers' Nest | 28m | |||||
Left: Portocolada 5c 28m Lead Onsight
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Alani Wall & Mona Lisa | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Jasmine | 17m | |||||
Also: Jasmine Ext 6a+ 25m Lead Onsight
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
6b | ★★ Monahiki Elia - with Esau | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful, flowy climb to some sculpted tufas.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Olympic Wall | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sleeping Beauty — 2 attempts | 35m | |||||
Misread. Also thought the top was harder than the “crux”
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7a+ ~7a | ★★ Saule | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Stunning climbing, left me smiling for a while!
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Kamari Symplegades | |||||||
5b | ★ Greek Salad - with Francesca | 15m | |||||
The extended 32m (5c)
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Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7a | ★★ Elefantenhimmel - with Esau | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell clipping the chains! Felt quite a bit harder than DNA!! Hard to clean, too!
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7a | ★★★ DNA - with Esau | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great way to start this trip and also my 40s. Kneebar bonanza. Unbeatable location and views. Felt like I was floating through it. Great stuff. First day driving a scooter too haha.
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Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Sikati Bay The Beach | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Material Man | 18m | |||||
Easy climbing until the last bolt.
No carabiners at the anchor, bring your own gear to clean.
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Fri 1st Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | |||||||
7a | ★★★ DNA — 3 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Once I found the rests it felt a lot easier
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Olympic Wall | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sleeping Beauty | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Superb! Very beautiful line, i enjoyed it even with 75% humidity! One crux with chipped hold, technical endurance climbing.
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6b Easy | Folly | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
One move on vertical wall, which is dirty and slippery… not good warming up, nothing interesting
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6c | ★★ Laetyan | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very hard with humidity today, especially tufas are all wet and slippery.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Pezonda Valhalla | |||||||
6c | ★★★ More Than Honey Ext - with Matina karakosta | 37m, 17 | |||||
A long pitch
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7a+ | ★★ Heidrun Ext - with Matina karakosta | 35m | |||||
One crux
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7b+ | ★★★ Valhalla - with Matina karakosta | 35m | |||||
Nice route..endurance climbing..a bit hard for the grade
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Griffig | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Gremlin Hannah | 30m | |||||
Soft 7c+
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Telendos Glaros | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Maylen | 30m | |||||
Nice route..classic
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Summertime Summer Wine | |||||||
6c | ★★ Antonis Lampos - with chloe z | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
repeat
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6b+ | ★★★ Mr Rigolo - with chloe z | 25m, 11 | |||||
repeat (i think?)
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7a | ★★ Mama Nota - with chloe z | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
really nice
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Sikati Bay Sikati Cave | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Laurent... y a Quelqu'un - with chloe z | 38m | |||||
Just barely kept it together through the cruxes. Pads on both legs and used the left one a lot on the big tufa in the middle. Amazing route, but summer is probably not the best time for it. The rock was still really hot at 15:00 because it is so far right.
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7a+ | ★★★ Mort aux Chèvres - with chloe z | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
repeat
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Eagle Wall | |||||||
7b |
★★★ Free Bird
- with
alex ng
3
7b
30m
4
6a+
20m
5
6b
25m
6
6a
35.m
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great adventure with Alex, who climbed the difficult pitches 2 and 3. Rest of the route easier. Approach route needs some study, steep scree in second half of approach. Descend back to route base is doable but not so obvious, though cairns are helpful. Beautiful route, perfectly bolted.
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Myself Not a Fish | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 2. Finally figured out all the moves! Happy!
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Diagoras Cave | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Unicorn | 18m, 8 | |||||
Enjoyable climbing
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Arhi Arhi Main | |||||||
6a+ ~6a+ | ★★ Orione | 25m | |||||
Much more difficult than expected
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Pezonda Eora Cave | |||||||
7c+ | God is a Pogo Princess - with chloe z | 20m | |||||
Chloe put draws in, I sent! No pads - not sure if there are kneebars anyway
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Arginonta | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bouboulina (Part 1) | 20m | |||||
Polished holds, a little pumpy first part. Good warm-up.
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6c Easy | ★★ NAB/FAW | 33m | ★ Good | ||||
Long start of easy slab, after tricky traverse on sharp holds, and a little steeper finish on good holds.
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7a+ Easy | ★★★ Lysistrati | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Cool for the onsight! Athletic slippery first part. Nice upper part.
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Pezonda Eora Cave | |||||||
7c+ | God is a Pogo Princess - with chloe z | 20m | |||||
bolt to bolt remembering moves, then RP to the chains and FELL AT THE CHAINS. no pads
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Olympic Wall | |||||||
7a Hard | ★★★ Biloute | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very polished and slippery holds. Holds are mostly big, nice moves.
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7a | ★★ Crack | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice.
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6c Hard | ★★ Saphir | 31m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good route, solid for the grade.
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Comic Tree | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Ben — 2 attempts - with Angela S | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great non-linear climbing. Sustained, technical footwork and pumpy. Sensational climb!
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6a+ | ★★★ Mimosa - with Angela S | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic holds, excellent feet, and long. Great warm up!
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6b+ | ★★★ Woody - with Angela S | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb which forces you to be creative with twisting and turning.
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Summertime Summer Wine | |||||||
6a | ★★ Didi, Hermana di Alma | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic warm up!
|
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6c | ★★ Silver Spurs — 2 attempts | 27m, 12 | |||||
All about the crux section..
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6a+ | ★★ Get Up | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky start!
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6b+ | ★★ Summer Wine | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Always a classic when the route is named after the crag!
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Pezonda Valhalla | |||||||
7b ~7a | ★ Arabiata Ext 2 - with chloe z | 47m | |||||
quite nice -- just the first ext. flakes seem fragile
|
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6c | ★★★ More Than Honey Ext - with chloe z | 37m, 17 | |||||
The top is airy!
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Vathy Little Eden | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Stone Romance — 2 attempts - with Brendan Lee | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic
|
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5c+ | ★★ Stone Island - with Angela S | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warm up!
|
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7a | ★★ Seventh Heaven — 2 attempts - with Angela S | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky crux early on with sloping holds. Another battle near the end with confident footwork needed and engaging your thumb to make the holds more positive.
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7a Easy | ★★ Cloud 9 - with Angela S | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Difficult crux section - use your feet to get more purchase on the slopers!
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | |||||||
7c Easy | Amédé the Stuikerspin | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Little 7c. Easy for people with small fingers, because of pockets on the crux. The crux is cool, but after it’s not very interesting and sharp.
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7a Easy | ★★ Douleur et Gloire | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice one. Sustained.
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6b | ★★ Julieta | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Soft. Just one 6b move.
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Telendos South Face - Multi-Pitches | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Eterna - with alex ng | 280m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Beautiful route, densely bolted. Second pitch by far the most difficult. We climbed it in 6 pitches by combining pitches to gain time. Easy route finding. Last hour we climbed in the sun. Descent was challenging because of the temperature. Count two hours at least. We used the church half way to find some shade and recovery.
When climbing the route in summer consider to stay the previous night on Telendos. An early (sunrise) start gives time to be at the beach around mid day... |
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Olympic Wall | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Blue Magic - with chloe z | 35m | |||||
Amazing route! completely misread everything. Not even pads could help me
|
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Poets | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★★ Solomos | 35m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Feels hard in humidity.
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Skalia Ghost Kitchen | |||||||
6b | ★★ Tchao Regina - with Angela S | 36m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A route which demands great body positions, bridging and smearing.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Oh my Gosh! | 37m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Long route with many parts which demand your attention. Lots of fun!
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6c+ | ★★★ Pourquoi Paniquer? | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sustained and demanding climbing. Great route!
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Axium — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A nervous ascent, but happy with the send!
|
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Kalymnos | |||||||
Armeos Olympic Wall | |||||||
6b | ★★ Rêve de Femme | 20m | Average | ||||
Not very interesting. 1 star, no more.
|