Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Super Blonde | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Really fun to work on this one and get it clean on the second go.
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20 | ★ Super Blonde — 2 attempts | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is an AWESOME climb!!! I top roped it and it felt committing and pumpy then went for the lead send and it went! The start is so cool and quite burley but with good holds and after the 3rd clip feels quite desperate being pushed out but it was an epic climb so much fun
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Slave Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Bondage for Beginners | 10m, 2 | |||||
I struggled with the first move off the ground! Then going from first to second clip was committing! Bill went with left hand up to the scoop/crack but I couldn't go that way so twisted in with a drop knee and went up with the right! Very fun, felt harder than a 17 at the bottom!
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Nicknack Paddywack | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quality climbing throughout, eases off physically after a pumpy start.
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18 | ★★ Nicknack Paddywack | 15m, 4 | |||||
Small dog at the start for me
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | |||||||
22 Hard | ★★★ Rawhide | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Stoked to get the send on this! Was a battle. Maduro put the draws up and had the good idea to go back down to the lie down rest after clipping the 3rd bolt
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19 | ★ Hula Yula — 2 attempts | 14m, 3 | |||||
Found this hard today
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18 | ★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Still tricky
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Send a Gorilla | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool holds. The pump really gets you just as it gets crimpy
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22 | ★★ Electricorp Production — 2 attempts | 17m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great endurance climb. I pumped out and messed up the cruxy moves near the top. I think it'd go though
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12 | ★ Greenday | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice juggy climb even though it's dirty
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21 | ★ The Fat Fight Back | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I fell at the last move to the anchor! A pity it's so dirty at the bottom, as it has very interesting features and moves. Maduro got stuck not knowing where to go at the top. Turns out you can stay right at the tufa, get an undercling on the tufa and get to a good edge by the last bolt
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Tomorrow Gully | |||||||
22 | ★★ Clutch Cargo | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Awesome headwall. Gotta be 3 stars just for the position
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21 | ★★ Wreck Tangle | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Cool climbing up a tufa and corner. I found this tricky with slippery feet. Fell at the last tricky move
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Stone Symposium Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Seafire | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tricky steep crimps (where I pumped out 😢), then epic uber exposed juggy overhang
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19 | ★★ Spitfire | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice techy climbing
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | |||||||
22 Hard | ★★★ Rawhide | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Making progress. Feels doable
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19 | ★ Bite My Chunk | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice pumpy climbing
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ The Good, The Bad And The Dread | ★ Good | |||||
2nd go. Fluffed about too much on the first 😂
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Gravity | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4th go
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
25 ~26 | ★★★ Feeling Lucky Punk? | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good. If Skiing Off A Convex Slope gets 26 then surely this should too
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★ Rhinoceros | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat but never logged. Nice climbing if a bit tricky for the grade. Good way to end the day after getting tired out on Fish Wall!
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24 | ★★★ Subliminal Seducer — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
As good as it looks!
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Stone Symposium Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Temples Of Stone | 27m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
under moonlight
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18 | ★ Autumn Leaf | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
some cool high rockovers, and very dirty faceclimbing out left if you dont spot the flake/crack oops 🥴
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rat up a Drainpipe | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
i'm just a litol rat scurryig up a drinpipe
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Powerline - with Fergus Roache | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super scary 6th clip, lots of fun, great sustained line.
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Feisty Red | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
some of the coolest features i've ever touched
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Nicknack Paddywack | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat, warm up.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
1080 Gully | |||||||
21 | ★★ Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hand jamBs at Paines, quite the novelty!
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Ground's the Limit — 2 attempts | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time I’m failed to onsight or flash a 22 in ages. Pretty stiff, off balance crux. A nice line though, worth a lap.
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26 | ★ Berlin Wall | ★ Good | |||||
Utterly minging! Might be possible with a local anaesthetic to numb the pain in the fingers.
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23 | ★ Black Eyed Beauty | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Better than expected, worth doing.
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19 | ★ Rhinoceros | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard warm up!
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24 | ★★★ Subliminal Seducer | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Classic Paines pumper, with a bit of excitement at the top.
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24 | ★★ Jive Bombing | ★★★ Classic | |||||
A stonking traversing pitch that feels long and is worthy of more attention.
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21 | ★★★ Headcase | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Best stalagtite climbing this side of South East Asia! Very unique pitch and full value for the grade.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion — 3 attempts | ||||||
Got it all worked out, but proved to be a bit too juiced for the send. One to come back for!
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25 | ★★★ Feeling Lucky Punk? — 2 attempts | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of the trip, fifth overall. Felt cruisy on the send, but it’s a pretty intense little number that’s basically my anti style.
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25 | ★★★ Super Arette — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Got the proper Dave’s Arête experience, punting from the finishing hold on the flash attempt and taking the whinger. Went down easily second go once I knew where the holds were.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rat up a Drainpipe | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky little number! Quite varied and interesting.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Send a Gorilla - with Fergus Roache | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Exciting and thrilling to practice clipping with straight arms
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Fraulein Foreskin | Average | |||||
messed up the top sequence and the very top needs a good clean
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
24 | Fridge Magnet | Don't Bother | |||||
very dirty, 1 failed try and a face full of dirt was enough for me.
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22 Hard | ★★ The Ground's the Limit — 2 attempts | 12m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Placing and clipping the last draw is actually harder than the moves, great line
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Killing Time — 3 attempts | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
great moves but finding the crux hard for the grade
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14 ~15 | ★ Dread Fever | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
finish is hard for novice climbers hence suggested higher grade
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Tomorrow Gully | |||||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | ★ Good | |||||
top section feels very hard at present
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22 | ★★ Clutch Cargo | ★★★ Classic | |||||
such a good route and can be combined with wreck tangle as one long pitch
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21 | ★★ Wreck Tangle | ★★ Very Good | |||||
can be tricky and pumpy if you get the sequence wrong
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Wed 13th Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ The Fat Fight Back | ||||||
dirty at the botom but the climbing improves once you step on to beast wall
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Rhinoceros — 3 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cruxy
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Windfall — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Almost sent on the first go putting up the draws, got above the last bolt again. Then rested and finally sent on the 2nd go of the day and 8th(?) in total.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | |||||||
22 Easy | ★★★ Rawhide - with siâny | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a sIck climb!! stoked to get the onsight, great flow on mega jugs
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18 | ★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka - with siâny | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So much to see! old rings, rock cut by rope, cool moves with a bit of spice, not enough to get the legs’a shakin tho.
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Windfall — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Made good progress, consistently getting above the last draw.
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Sweetest William — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
the crux of high voltage still seems the hardest move to me
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ Feeling Lucky Punk? | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really cool climbing on mostly small (occasionally painful) holds. Figured out all the moves but linking them will be tricky - no real rests to speak of! Maybe a long term project.
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Superconductor | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt relatively easy after some rest days
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24 | ★★ Windfall — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
High point is the clipping hold for bolt 3, didn't manage to clip
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Positive Energy | ★ Good | |||||
start crux seems very hard for shorter climbers
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Tenuite Wall | |||||||
15 ~16 | ★ Romancing The Stone - with Neil Murphy | 10m, 2 | |||||
according to the guidebook, it's 16+
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Slave Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Dave's Belay Slave Gets Bored - with Neil Murphy | 8m, 2 | |||||
the first move is quite reachy on polished feet, but then it's a beautiful climb
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Tenuite Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Chicken Hawk - with Neil Murphy | 10m, 4 | |||||
hawk. pretty ran out before the anchor
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Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
High Rocks Boulders | |||||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | |||||
I got to a couple of moves away from the lip on my best attempt, but it's hard to find the correct line, I kept running out of holds. otherwise it's an incredibly fun problem
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Fri 9th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Superconductor — 3 attempts | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Was completely powered out on the 3rd attempt. Really good climb.
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22 | ★★ Electricorp Production — 2 attempts | 17m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of the day after warming up on it.
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21 | ★★ Make My Grumpy Cat Dance | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Scarrrrrry
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Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★ Rhinoceros | 15m | |||||
HARD
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Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Electricorp Production | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell off at the top, just before the jug, got my left hand where my right should've gone and couldn't untangle from there.
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24 | ★★ Gravity — 2 attempts | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Had two working attempts, got just above the 3rd bolt, still not sure how I'm going to clip the 3rd.
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Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Bilbos Great Adventure | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
An adventure indeed, not an easy send.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Harry | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and easy climb
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21 | ★★ Make My Grumpy Cat Dance | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Couldn't find the moves through the crux
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Black Eyed Beauty — 2 attempts | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
tricky little crux but easy after
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22 | ★ American Spoon | Average | |||||
needs a good clean, end of the day so not too stoked to pull on dirty holds
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19 ~20 | ★ Rhinoceros | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
route is improved with the new lower bolt which keeps the climber on the true line
|
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21 | ★★ Feeding The Rat | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Reachy crux for shorter climber (or dynamic)
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
High Rocks Boulders | |||||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - with Grayson Meaclem | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing juggy handles into difficult slopy mantle to finish.
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
21 Hard | ★★★ Headcase - with Grayson Meaclem | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Get creative climbing with the tufas. Technical and fun beta to the head where it becomes crimpy with slopers to the top. Epic climb
|
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Wall of Thugs Upper | |||||||
23 Easy | ★★★ 1080 and the Letter G - with Grayson Meaclem | 13m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Big moves on positive juggy handles, slip into the full body rest cave, massive jugs and mantle over the small roof to finish.
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Rat up a Drainpipe - with Grayson Meaclem | 25m, 8 | Average | ||||
Crimps turned to slopers, nothing on this climb is positive. It is very worn and polished. Some big mantle moves off high slopers. Pumpy at the top but jugs are better, slightly runout. Felt long
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Stone Symposium Wall | |||||||
18 Easy | ★★★ Temples Of Stone - with Grayson Meaclem | 27m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy with crimpy jugs, a few easy committing moves, a bit of endurance needed.
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | |||||||
22 Hard | ★★★ Rawhide - with Grayson Meaclem | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sick juggy roof into a full body rest ledge, layback on the arete to the slopy and technical slab finish
|
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Tomorrow Gully | |||||||
6 Hard | Beavis - with Grayson Meaclem | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumpy, difficult, technical and committing moves. Mossy in some areas
|
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ The Good, The Bad And The Dread — 3 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Pumped after 10 days of climbing
|
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lost Soul | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Sandbag of the century
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lost Soul | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crazy futuristic moves
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Tomorrow Gully | |||||||
22 | ★★ Clutch Cargo | Average | |||||
Would be good if it was good you know?
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Send a Gorilla | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cocked up the beta and fell once
|
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25 | ★★★ Feeling Lucky Punk? | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fell off the last move from the ground twice
|
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23 | ★★ High Voltage | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Had a bit of a moment and dogged like crazy
|
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21 | ★ The Voice of the Beehive | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Felt like I was climbing on glass
|
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Thu 11th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Killing Time — 2 attempts | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard Hard hard. Took me 3 sessions to get this one. Went 2nd go of the day.
|
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Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Wrinkle | 15m | |||||
These 16s are harder than the 18s
|
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Doo-Little | 9m | |||||
Hard at the anchor
|
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | |||||||
18 ~16 | ★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Once I stopped being a numpty and actually looked at the wall the crux was not too bad. Most of the climb was a stroll
|
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12 ~10 | ★ Calling All Hobbits | 8m, 1 | |||||
Cleaning
|
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Carnage Wall | |||||||
13 | Tunnels And Quarrying Act 1971 | Don't Bother | |||||
Definitely not a fully bolted sport route. No apparent anchor, so I just downclimbed to clean.
|
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25 | ★★★ Skiing Off A Convex Slope — 2 attempts | 13m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sent as the warm up after hanging the draws and brushing holds. Really fun movement, not sure if it deserves 26 points.
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