Routes as trad in Te Waipounamu / The South Island

A classy technical face climb forking left halfway up P2 of The Ravages of Time. Almost all sport; bring a slimmed down rack for the 15m of gear on P2.

P1 (6 bolts) - climb the first pitch of The Ravages of Time

P2 (5 bolts + gear) - climb the first 15m of P2 of The Ravages of Time through 1 bolt off the belay and gear before veering left (2m before a roof) at a ledge to continue up and left through 4 bolts to a hanging belay.

P3 (10 bolts) - steepening face climbing through an overlap (crux) before easing off to the next hanging belay

P4 (11 bolts) - cruisey face climbing veering right on good edges through the first 7 or 8 bolts before thinning out and veering back left for the final few bolts (crux)

It is possible to climb from the last anchor of Chink in Shining Armour to the rappel station on the halfway ledge, but requires climbing another ~10m through some dirty rock and plants protected by slinging trees (no bolts). Safer to link into this from P4.

Descent: Rappel down the anchors used on the way up in 2x50m rappels or 3x30m rappels

Up the corner.

Climb the system of cracks and ledges to a double bolt chain anchor. Can easily be protected entirely with traditional gear or as somewhat runout sport route.

A squeeze route between 'Rongbuk' and 'Peggy Peggy Phew' using their bolts as protection and traditional gear.

Follow the crack line right, then veer left under the top bulge.

More classic than Summer in '69.

Crack left of 'A dull Thump'

Tree stands in the way of beginning of climb, overgrown with moss and lichen, an adventurous trad climb.

Arguably the greatest rock climb in New Zealand.

Start in gully just left of DP, then traverse right and up next to yellow lichen.

Thin moves up the face to finish either in the wide crack or up Wasted on the Wing.

Pitch 1 25m grade 15 pitch 2 25m grade 19 pitch 3 14m grade 14 pitch 4 25m grade 20

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Past two bolts and up a thin crack.

Yet another Mt Horrible classic, and many locals fav climb here. A bit of everything in its short length; straight up the solid finger crack, move right into the bomber hand crack, arrange gear and headspace, and climb left into the overhanging crux buldge. Warm down on the off-width crack to finish.

Hard start up thin edges leads you to a superb hand crack and an offwidth. Well worth it.

Starts at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb slab up to the left of the roof and then traverse right back above the roof passing 3 bolts until you reach the farthest right line of bolts. Climb up clipping 3 more bolts and then wires or cams to top out at DBB on a ledge.

A great route up the centre of the west-facing wall of Steeple Peak. Rock quality improves with height, culminating in 2-3 pitches worth of beautiful ridgeline. 300m height gain, Mount Cook grade 3+, grade 14 rock, usually done in 6-8 pitches

Obvious corner with crack system. One of the best of the early lines, with good gear options

Wild indeed. The warm up is a wide bridge with hand jams up into the cave thing (watch your head), then hand jam your way out of it (or layback the crack if you can't jam). Move right up to wide crack and up to finish. Just note the entire right side of Wildman is a giant pillar thats not sitting on very much.

start from wide left trending crack leading to the top bolts of Bon Anniversaire.

You could do this route in one pitch, but then you’d miss out on the great belay ledge. Pitch1 (16) - Start from Deep Wide and Frequent (better) or Stray Cat (19a). Sustained climbing up to and through roof (crux) to a commodious belay ledge. Pitch 2 (13) - Steep start to the easy L leaning ramp.

Climb up and through the prominent roof on the backside of the pinnacle, on all natural gear.

The dog-leg crack that parallels The Shoveller at the top, to the same anchor. Finish over the block or turn it on the left.

Right trending crack to bolted anchors.

Climbs the obvious crack dividing the two walls between Promised Land on the left, and Restless on the right

Start off the ramp at the thin crack, then traverse right to another crack, which leads through the overlap. Traverse right below a roof to the anchor. The cracks take good natural pro, but take care with placements - some stunning groundfalls have occurred here.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Snake right to a belay stance, then take a deep breath and commit left to the second pitch.

Corner between please stop and please go.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

A bridging groove with cams and wires, leads past 4 bolts to a small roof. A bulge with a final bolt leads to an easier, but run-ou,t finish.