Routes as trad in Te Waipounamu / The South Island

Great bridging up to the welcome mega-jug. Start at the prominent R facing corner - best belay is at the broadleaf tree 4m above ground level. Pro is a bit sparse at the crux - take small wires.

Two steep pitches up a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round towards the NE Face.

Clip the first 4 bolts of Magic World then continue up the crack, veering left to the shared anchor.

Start up G-a-C to overlap, then head right and link to Anagaanga to finish up.

The face/ slab to the right of Crows Nest. After a fatality in 2019 the Mountain Safety Council recommended climbers do not lead the route.

Stemming box (fingers and hands) directly above the first "batman" chain

First protection is fairly high, but after that it's well protected. Climb up the groove 2m right of the arete, continue up the corner then through the roof.

There's a chain at the top to rap off.

Used to be two pitches of grade 20 called The Long and Winding Road. A big pillar fell off the first pitch, which is now called VW and is an excellent grade 23 sport climb up a v corner. Seven bolts. The second pitch is still grade 20 and takes plenty of gear.

Technical climb but very rewarding. poor pro

The splitter crack. Medium-large wires and small-medium cams useful.

This climb was buried in gravel as part of the project to prevent coastal erosion. Only the top 3 metres remains.

The climb has sustained earthquake damage at the top.

Gently angled slab on right hand side of face (45m). Follow right side of buttress through slabs to a gully of shingle (40m). Climb left to a steeper part, then a slab. Stay right on the slab, join the ridge. (40m).

From the same start move right along the dirt ledge to the crack. Intricate climbing at the start until the crack widens to hand size, then cruisy to the top

If you want to try this climb just be aware that there are runouts on wet/vegetated rock 15-30m between gear!

P1 (16) 55m - Climb the grassy gully to the right of the small roof above the bivvy. The anchor is a bolt and a very manky nut.

P2 (16) 55m - Continue up the crack to a small grassy ledge.

P3 (16) 40m - Traverse left underneath the overhang and a parallel crack for a natural belay.

P4 (17) 60m - Traverse left and up smooth face with good but spaced pro on small flakes. The next anchor is a bolt and piton above a ledge.

P5 (9) 60m - Traverse to right and scramble up the steep ledge. Single bolt anchor.

P6 (9) 60m - Easy scrambling to find a bolt and a nut anchor (this anchor seems hidden/non-existent - we set up a trad anchor at the base of P7).

P7 (13) 60m - Easy climbing up a buttress to a trad anchor point below a steep section.

P8 (16) 40m - Dirty crack. Keep on the ridge side of the corner to a single bolt anchor (you can back it up with a #4).

P9 (19) 35m - Bouldery start on a sharp-edged corner to a ledge, then up a crack to another. Watch out for loose blocks. Go left off the crack to a DBA.

P10 (19/A2) 40m - Head to the off-width. Must have at least one #6 and doubles of #4 & #5. Free climb the end of the chimney to DBA below a roof.

P11 35m - Easy traverse right to bivvy ledge. Use the bollard at Big Rock for anchor.

P12 (13) 60m - Walk across to the other end of the ledge and go straight up buttress to DBA.

P13 (13) 60m - Easy slab.

P14 (19R) 40m - Traverse left a little and go up the crimpy face to a DBA on the right.

P15 (19R) 35m - Slab with scarce placements. Veer right to a vertical crack and a DBA.

P16 (18) 35m - Aim for the roof through the crack system. Set up trad anchor below the roof.

P17 (16) 60m - Skip roof through the right side, then a full rope-length straight up to a DBA.

Descent: 13 double rope raps following a direct line from the top (not all anchors are rap points) will lead you back to the bottom of the route.

Hudson – ‘A superlative route !!! My favourite anyway’. Best split into 2 pitches. The left diagonal ramp slashes the main wall at mid height and provides access to the great roof climbs of Aqualung, Bwana Dik, and Bomb Bay.

Start in the centre of the wall beside a bush, and follow a thin crack curving up to a round pod. Trend left, past a small roof and bolts to a double bolt anchor.

The first gully, from the left that goes the full height of the crag. Up grooves and over ledges for about 20m. Then step left and climb the crack over a large block (crux, easy but commiting), and finish up the corner. You can use Geoid anchor.

Climb the right-hand side of the butress in the centre of the face. Two pegs on a ledge to belay (55m). Climb steeper ground off belay via a crack, to the next ledge (15m).

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Bolted line in the right side of the roof. Bring a boulder mat, 0.5/0.75 cams, small nuts, and pre-clip your draws.

Climb the right-leaning weakness past two bolts to the last bolt of the Nor West Arch traverse. Pull past it on the right to gain a rest in the crack above, which takes larger wires. Then move to the left crack and climb to the top of the pillar, with good cams. Steep climbing on good holds to finish, and move left to the anchors. Better than the name suggests. Double ring anchor.

Climb up the corner to bolt 2 of Rogue Rat.

As the track goes into the trees a solid grey wall presents itself. From the corner climb off tree onto sustained wall. Clip bolt and traverse right to larger holds; move up carefully to clip second bolt. Straight up and at the break, originally move right to the crack in upper wall, with a thought-provoking move.

As of 8/12/22 the upper crack is incredibly overgrown and impassable.

This route actually goes where "Nice Guys Come Last" goes, unfortunately the Nice Guys came last, in fact several years later!

Vague crack to right of Quick Thyme. Can clip some bolts on QT if required.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Climb the wall left of the arete past a bolt, then follow the crack.

Climb 'Spin' to its anchor, then climb onto the ledge above. A bolt has being placed to protect this. Belay off the tree in front of the crack. Layback your way over the bulge and jam your way to the anchors. Superb quality, pity it isn't longer.

Start up Paradise Regained and clip the bolt with a sling, but then move straight up on to the slab to join the crack just right of the bush. Up the steepening crack (crux) and over the bulge on good holds. Finish up the top corner as for Deviant.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.