Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Høyre linje | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Reidar Sjuse — 9 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
foot hold on first crux has now brocken, is posibal that it is easyier now
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Oceanside minnerisset Boulder A | |||||||
7A Easy | ★★ Master Blaster variant | ||||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Valberg Skokkelvika Slartibartfast | |||||||
7B+ Easy | ★★★ Slartibartfast | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Justad Trolldalstjonna | |||||||
7A | ★★★ King fisher | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7-/7 | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - with caitlin | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One to come back for
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - with caitlin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Gullfaks - with caitlin, will | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had one attempt and got clean to the roof. Would be good to come back and work the top and then go for the sendy send!
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6c/c+ Hard | ★★ Ildvann — 2 attempts - with caitlin, will | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux is cruxy and hard for hobbits
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- | ★★ Apa - with Sydney | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Ayers Rock - with Caitlin, Will | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Automatic for the People - with Caitlin, Will | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch
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6- | ★★★ Tom Jones - with Caitlin, Will | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses - with Caitlin | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Caitlin | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - with caitlin | 20m | Average | ||||
Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Gaukerisset - with caitlin | 65m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Geitvika | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Pan - with Caitlin | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Caitlin | 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous
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6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - with Caitlin | 90m | |||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Nipen Junior veggen | |||||||
4b | Puffen | Average | |||||
5b | Herran og Derran | Average | |||||
6a | Duffen | Average | |||||
5c | Verktogskrekk | ||||||
5b | Puffin | Average | |||||
6a | Balansere | Average | |||||
6a+ | Vanskelig | Average | |||||
4b | Doffen | Average | |||||
Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Got you fooled there... | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a | ★★ Is this all, Sophie? | ★ Good | |||||
6a | ★ Forselv rederi | Don't Bother | |||||
5c | ★★ Baginski spesial | Average | |||||
5c | ★ Eggulf | Average | |||||
Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ★ Good | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ Good | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6c/c+ ~6c | ★★ Ildvann — 4 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6c/c+ ~6c | ★★ Ildvann | 15m | |||||
7b | ★★★ Alopølsa — 5 attempts | 20m | |||||
Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
5c | ★★ Baginski spesial - with Luzia B. | ||||||
7a | ★★ Alkotest - with Luzia B. | 20m | |||||
6c | ★★ Lille vakre anna - with Luzia B. | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lille vakre anna | ||||||
5c | ★★ Baginski spesial — 2 attempts | ||||||
6a | ★ Forselv rederi | ||||||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Good sequences following Dave
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | |||||||
Trollskåla Overhenget | |||||||
5 | ★★ Dieder | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | |||||||
Trollskåla Venstre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Sofaruta | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
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6a+ | Obelix | 25m | Average | ||||
Grade 20. Stupid finish.
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6a | ★ Mye botanikk | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Store veggen | |||||||
5+ A0 | ★★ Senterlinje | 200m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Luzia B. | 480m | |||||
Amazing route!
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | |||||||
6 | ★ Holoholahoy | 15m | |||||
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
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7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
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6- | ★ Jepperuta | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Some steep but good holds
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
- with
Wille Cederberg
1
5+
45m
2
6-
40m
3
6
45m
4
5-
25m
5
4
30m
6
6-
45m
7
6
45m
8
5+
40m
9
6
45m
10
4+
30m
11
5
35m
12
3
55m
| 480m | |||||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main B | |||||||
7- | Trim de eldre — 2 attempts | 15m | |||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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6 | ★ Langtrur | 25m, 21 | ★ Good | ||||
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main C | |||||||
6 | ★ Dr. Bruce Banner | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Brattberget | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 attempts | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
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6- | ★ Batman | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
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6+ | Ironman | 12m | Average | ||||
The good bit is quite short
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6a+ | Cobra | ||||||
6c | ★ Skrova festivalen | ||||||
5c | Crusaders of the Metal Blade | ||||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Full belastning | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main C | |||||||
6 | ★ Flygende C | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
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6+ | ★★ Hulken | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main west | |||||||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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6+ | ★ St. Peter | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice roof to start
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5 | Oljeberget | 25m | |||||
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.
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7- | ★ Himmelspretten P1 | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Kugelhorn | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Østkammen | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Ildvann - with Håkon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warm up route.
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7b+ | ★★★ Commando - with Håkon, Yngve, Stian Bruvoll | ★★★ Classic | |||||
3 sessions attempting to be a sport climber. No send
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Leirvik | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Overhenget | ★★★ Classic | |||||
6a | ★★★ Flekken | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a | ★★★ Svorsk for Nybegynnere | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5c | ★★ Fururuta | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Ersfjorden | |||||||
6 | ★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting slab and corner
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6a | ★ Sjarmøren | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Short but nice
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6b | ★★ Sekspress | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite fun and great views
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5c | ★ Prinsessa | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting and quite steep.
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