Routes in Northern Norway for selected grade

Description and topo available

Descent follows the SE ridge in the direction of Vinstad.

Perhaps the most popular route to the summit

A topo & some images available here

Starts just right of the established lines.

Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit

The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit.

Some images here:

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Start 1-2 meters left of the arete in the black/grey rock. Good protection. First belay on a small ledge beside the big roof over Lys og skygge's first pitch.

The most popular way to repeat these ´Top 50´ lines cherry picks the best protected and nicest climbing.

1. Pitch 1 of Lys og Skygge goes up the ramp. Continue left under the roof to build a more comfortable belay on the arete.

2. Takes the straight crack of Appelcake Arete up to a DBB. Descend via a free-hanging rapp (50m)

3 unique pitches, the last (4) is part of the Coley smoke.

Gear beta: Standard Lofoten rack plus a #4

1. A short wide crack starts things off (crux) from here it’s easy slabs to a belay on grassy ledge

2. Trend right then up a thin finger crack. Continue up & over small bulge to a small stance

3. Layback up & left to a good ledge

4. Follow the crack system up then slightly right

5. More of the same

6. More easy climbing. Trend right when the large slab becomes visible.

7. Climb the left of the 2 cracks on the arête with tricky moves initially over the bulge into easier climbing in the RF corner. From here there’s a short wide section before the easy climbing returns.

8. Continue up to the big grassy ledge below the final summit block

9. Excellent pitch in a RF corner

10. Climb the hand crack then trend right to a decent stance.

11. Straight forward climbing leads to just below the summit. It’s another 10m up the ramp then right to the summit slab from here (N3)

Images here:

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The chimney

The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay

First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack.

One of the best lines here. Pitch 1 goes just right of Gandalf & up the corner with a tree before trending right & up the arete to a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 heads right & then up the short & steep hand crack (crux) to a ledge. The final pitch takes gradually easing finger cracks through the orange rock to the summit.

Pitch 3 image-

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The most popular route up the cliff. Has some nice climbing