Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Start up Maharajah LHV start, reach left as for Ravi Variant. L past BR to the arete, then up the right side of the flake. Slab past 2BRs to the belay on Maharajah. Finish as for Castles in the Sand to summit chains. Abseil 25moff the back.

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

Follows a direct line up a weakness in the face through an obvious cave halfway between Rooster Carnage and Joint Venture; strenuous and committing.

180m grade 23

Pitch 1 Up ill defined grove into shallow cave; through cave (crux) and belay above on bolts (grade 23).

Pitch 2 Up shallow grove to nearly full rope length on spaced natural pro. Belay where possible (grade 17)

Pitch 3 Straight up easy slab to top, long run outs on good rock (grade 12)

#Note bolts in top of cave protecting crux may need replacing.

R of TCFBS via 7 carrots

Serious direct start to Crystal Palace starting below arete of Iron in the Soul

There is a DBB at the top.

start 5m left of lambs fry, climb past br then along left leading crack for 2m. step acoss to right leading flake and clip BR. foot traverse right to arete then up

Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack ....

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in (i.e. towards Shipley Upper), there's a small overhang 30m along here before the waterfall. This route was deemed inappropriate and was erased by removing all bolts.

Very good. Steep with tech moves for feet.

3m right of ET. Two carrots.

Start from a small ledge (single bolt plus wire belay) below the small corner just up L from the original (corner) start of Gaia. Approach via a 50m abseil from gums close to the edge at the top of the buttress. Alternatively, abseil as per the access to Gaia.

1. 25m (crux). Up the elegant thin corner then the little roof to tea-tree.

2. 25m. Up with increasing ease.

It’s physical; you know that you have been climbing and it goes up with a well defined crux. It has all the elements of a great climb in a fantastic wilderness setting

(1) 35m 23. Start at the base of the vertical flake at the LHE of the slanting cave opposite the fireplace. Traverse right after the 3rd BR and delicately up to gain the powerful under cling just above the 5th BR; from where you reach up high to the right to gain a positive edge. 7BR and 2-3 larger wires to BB and 3½ Friend.

(2) 25m 15. Continue up with 3BR to belay on blocks.

(3)40m 23/24. To be continued up the North Summit.

M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Mar 05

Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described.

Free version of Call me Thor

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/just-call-me-thor/

Start at arête 30m R of Shazzam. Jump to jug, then traverse immediately right. Up through bouldery section (crux), then left to great climbing up arête. Mostly bolts plus cams (one large ~4, one small ~0.5). No lower-off - top belay. Note: Descent for this and other routes is by rapping from rings above Bam ba Lam.

Start up the overhanging twin finger cracks (finger sized cams and wires), then move out left past 2 bolts with some bouldery stemming, to third bolt (top anchor). Use second last bolt (w/ mallion) and anchor above to lower off.

Campus up to break,then move L to gain jugs (cutting loose). Mantle L to Bolt belay. Step R then up.

At the left (west) end of the crag, a rock slope meets some steep boulders and overhung sections. This area has a few short, but hard climbs that would be serious boulders (if you have heaps of mats). Left of the most prominent overhang, below a corner crack- head up into the corner. head out and over the left side boulder to the top.

Climb the steep corner and feature.

Follow the track past the intail climbs, just before the access to the top there is a ring bolted sport route next to it. Follow the cresent moon crack to the top and then head left and top out for the route. Top access for ring bolts or a sport 19 to the right for a warm up to get to the ring bolts. Have not bolted the route itself yet.

Finger traverse into thin crack. 1FH