Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Pinnacle Track Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Old Greg
Start matched as for Man Overboard, but continue traversing left and top out on the left of the prow. Watch out for dodgy broken rock. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2014 Set: Rowan Jordan, 1 Nov 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Axolotl
Start on jugs on the right of the main overhang, climb straight up to a surprisingly spicy top out slightly to the left. Can be started on crimps deeper in the cave if you feel like adding a move or two. Please don't break your face on the top-out, you have been warned... FA: Penny Bradshaw, 2014 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Tug Boat
Sit start basically under the boulder with hands on big incut rail. Go up through sloper and crimps to topout at the tallest point on the boulder. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Ceramics Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Red Bellied Black
Our advice would be not to make this your first V2. The easy line up the middle of the face 2m right of the tree, finishing just left of the crack at top. FA: Oliver Miller | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V2 | ★ Bronze Medallion
Sit start on the left side of the boulder and climb the arete to top out. Careful of the drop off. FA: Andy Beckworth | ||||
V2 | Cilice
Left of S&M Arete is an easy runnel that is climbed from a stand start. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Rick & Morty Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Helluva Miller
Climb the juggy face right of arete from a sit. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bakelite Concept | |||||
V2 | ★ Eye Of The Tiger
Good warm up. Sit start on low jugs down and right of the start of TBC. Climb up and right. FA: Braeden Hyland | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Courtyard Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★ Running Commentary
Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 6m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Diagonal Laneway Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Easy Lane
The easy arete is climbed from a sit. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Silver Linings Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Silver Linings
Sit start. Left hand and right hand on lower flake (somewhat hugging the boulder). Bump up left hand, heel hook right leg. Bump up right hand, heel hook left leg, then make your way up the boulder. FA: Alvin Khoo, 15 Oct 2014 | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak | |||||
20 | ★ Fiddler
Not bad. Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke [alt], 1969 | 62m, 2 | |||
20 | Transmutation
Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)
FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff [alt] Tony Dignan., 1978 | 30m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Fairy Tales Rock | |||||
V2 | Witch Tits
Start as for The BFG on the large Flake, but climb up and over the obvious set of witch tits. If you fall you will need some sorcery to fix your broken legs. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2015 | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V2 | Licking Toads
On the South Facing vertical wall, at the Eastern end. Start on side pull jug, climb rails up and right to an awkward topout, followed by a long easy scramble to the summit of Juju Rock. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | Skitakke Musquoom
On the North facing wall, at the uphill side. Sit start below small rooflet, make some crap movements up and over it to gain a ledge 2m off the ground. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2014 | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Rabbit Rock | |||||
V2 | Pinch a Bunny
Sit start low with a big undercling pinch on the north western end of the boulder. Move up and over the top from here. FA: Josh brown, 2015 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Squeeze a Bunny
Sit start in the middle of the northern face of Bunny Rock. Move technically up and right on gastons and slopers to topout. FA: josh brown, 2015 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Elephants Hide | |||||
21 R | ★ Protected Species
Start above the pool 6m L of ES. Up centre of slab past 3 bolts. Would be more popular and come down a grade or two if a couple more bolts were added. FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 1991 | 40m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Tower of Paine | |||||
20 | My Friend Flicker
| 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Wild Geese Wall | |||||
20 | The Casting Couch
| 16m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Crock Wall | |||||
20 | Shuper Duper
Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall. FA: Steve Jones & Peter Martin 21.3.91, 1991 | 22m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Point Sunshine | |||||
21 | ★ 1921
| 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Lower Goon | |||||
21 | ★ Jumping Jack Flash
| 30m | |||
20 | ★ The Transit of Venus
| 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Grand Canyon East Wall | |||||
20 | Heartland
FA: Pete Stebbins & Matt Brooks, 1990 | 42m | |||
20 | Black Widow
| 30m | |||
20 | Fire Stone
| 27m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Southern Outcrops | |||||
20 | ★ Pussy's Bow
Good climbing on nice rock. Seam starting from boulder 8m R of KK. From ledge finish easily up wall above. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2007 | 25m | |||
20 | Turf Wars
Explosive moves on pockets on supurb rock. Start up BiP, R up line, step R onto wall and up. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2007 | 17m | |||
20 | Bodice Ripper
50m R of Jonah, a narrow buttress immediately R of a body chimney. Up middle of face then finish up L arete. Sustained and fiddley to protect. A bit artificial avoiding the ledge off R at half height. FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2007 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | |||||
21 | ★ The Good Soldier Schweik
Steep flake crack 2m R of FD leads up and slightly R to a ledge. Climb steep crack in arête and face above. FA: Simon Barnaby Stuart Gardner, 1989 | 23m | |||
21 | ★ Sacred Ground
First RB of Tatrazine then left side of the black groove finishing at the shared anchors up to the left. 5 RBs FFA: Matt & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 25m, 5 | |||
20 | Tartrazine
1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung. | 25m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Weathered Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Frigging in the Rigging
| 35m | |||
21 | Frigging in the Rigging Variant Finish
| 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Fallen Giant Area | |||||
20 | Twirl
| 15m | |||
21 | Baby Beaver
| 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sign Cemetery | |||||
21 | Sign Your Life Away
| 45m | |||
21 | Sign on the Dotted Line
| 15m, 2 | |||
21 | Sign from Above
| 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Beanstalk Wall-Hidden Gem | |||||
20 | Give the Dog a Bone
| 13m | |||
21 | Positively Negative
| 13m | |||
21 | Happy Herman
| 15m | |||
20 | Zot's Hang-out
| 15m | |||
21 | Sweet Pea
| 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Neurology Wall | |||||
20 | Carbo Overload
| 10m | |||
20 | ★ Neurology
| 35m | |||
20 | Going With the Flow
| 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Bellfield Peak | |||||
20 | Upwardly Mobile
Pity about the finishing pitches. Start: Start at the corner on the righthand side of Beerpot wall.
FA: James McItosh & Jeremy Boreham, 1995 | 130m, 6 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Upper Wurzlegummage Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Scatterbrook
Arete L of Midday Sun (a bit better than it looks), finishing direct up through overhang / groove. Not as much pro at the crux as you'd like. FA: Goshen Watts & Bernie, 19 Jan 2022 | 35m | |||
20 | Spanner Water
Start just to the left of Burnt By The Shade. Climb to the right side of major scoop and step left into line above. Follow cracking line and holds until they run out and step left under rap chains to finish. FA: Hywel Rowlands & David Singleton, Nov 2020 | 28m | |||
21 | ★★ Burnt By The Shade
The only sport route at the crag, and perhaps the best route here too? A slabby start leads to a corner feature, after which the angle steepens. After the last bolt, avoid stepping right to the anchors, and finish straight up the classy little headwall. FA: james scott-bohana & steve toal, 2018 | 28m, 7 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Lookout Point Wall | |||||
20 | ★ The Mentz File
L leaning seam starting 3m R of The Stand. | 24m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Lake View Wall | |||||
20 | Talk to Me Dirty
| 22m | |||
20 | Thomas Saves The Day
Starts a few metres right of The Rutting Season. Climb the line and overhang to finish. FA: Jeremy Boreham, Kevin Lindorff, Mike Wust & The Fat Controller | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Old Wave Wall | |||||
20 | Happy Hooker
| 65m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Devils Peak | |||||
20 | Good Intentions
Fingers to off-width test-piece but needs cleaning. At upper left end of cliff are two pinnacles high on the cliff and 70 metres apart. Start in recessed alcove below left pinnacle. Climb distinctive, grey, right-facing flake-crack (ancient fixed nut at 10 metres, below teh overhang). Above overhang, belay on ledge on left. Abseil from tree. FA: Chris Baxter & Greg Aimer, 1998 | 20m | |||
21 | Self Immolation
Start 20m right of 'Route 666' in a corner below a little roof 4m above the ground.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Brereton, 1990 | 95m, 3, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Black Narcissus
Looks Great Start: Starts up brushed groove in blunt arete 50m right of Satan\'s Exit, above right side of huge fallen blocks and just left of the yellow undercut wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) & Andrew Reynolds, 1996 | 100m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Workshop | |||||
20 | ★ Impossible Dream
| 70m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Observatory | |||||
20 | Cyrus
| 80m | |||
20 | ★ Xerxes
Some dubious rock. Start: 2m right of 'Bitch City'
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson, 1979 | 72m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak South Face | |||||
20 | ★ Lion Hearted
| 75m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak East Face | |||||
20 | ★ Frumious Bandersnatch
Once well-known as one of the earlier grade 20s in Victoria but has sunk back into deserved obscurity. Still one of the cleaner climbs here though. | 83m | |||
21 | ★ Frabjous Day
A clean technical start leads to varied and sometimes loose and/or dirty ground in the second half. Start 12 metres left of 'Manxome Foe' at a prominent left-facing corner.
FA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran (alt), 2000 | 120m | |||
20 | ★★ Corum's Corner
A superb right-facing black and yellow corner, a landmark at the right-hand end of the cliff. Scramble up to starting ledge. Escape off right at the top. FA: Paul Kinnison & John Margetts, 1973 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Gimbling
The shallow L-facing corner immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off to the right. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson, 1979 | 20m | |||
20 | Curioser and Curioser
a little left of the base of Queen of Hearts are a few distinct natural crack or crack and corner lines. Curioser and Curioser takes recessed twin/opposing corners. When one thins out to virtually disappear it is possible to do a groin-busting bridge to help move across to the other crack then up more easily. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ross Timms, 2014 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak Epicurean Terrace | |||||
21 | ★ Through The Looking Glass
Beautiful clean corner. The climb had been done earlier by others with a couple of aids. Start on terrace 5 metres left of 'Brillig'
FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter (alt), 2000 | 55m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Railon Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Swarm up
From a stand climb the shield just right of the left arete. FA: Evan Campbell | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Royal Box | |||||
V2 | ★★ Prince Albert
| 6m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Courtyard Area | |||||
V2 | ★ Sir Earl
Up the slab wall left of Courtyard Arete. FA: Pete | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Courtyard Arete
Up the slopey compression from a sitstart on the arete. | 2m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Nicholas Cage Memorial Face | |||||
V2 | ★★ Face Off
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V2 | ★ Leaving Las Vegas
| 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Identity Crisis Buttress | |||||
V2 | ★★ Bleached Balls
All the way up the terrifyingly high left arete of the buttress FA: Chook Betts | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Beige Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Earl of Brown
Stand start as for "Hymen Gorillas". Traverse left and head up. FA: Chook Betts | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Three Sisters | |||||
V2 | ★ Hylander
| 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Slappers Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Pimply Pinches
The groove using eponymous pimply pinches. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Den of Dwarfs | |||||
V2 | ★ Dwarf Power
| 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Dwarf Bleaus
Sit start on sloping rail (2m right of Dwarf Power), move left then straight up good holds of Dwarf Power. FA: owyongtc | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★ A Dwarf's Delight
Sit start on low big edge directly opposite Dwarf Power. Move up on sloping sidepulls and edges around the vertical weakness to an easier top out. | 2m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Frankston Boulders | |||||
V2 | Chooks Grovel
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Pump Rock | |||||
20 | Trumpet Pumpet
| 17m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range The Guardians | |||||
20 | ★ Sentinel Corner
some small gear useful for the crux.
FA: Mike Stone & Geoff Gledhill, 1971 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | Sentinel Corner Variant
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1987 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Valley of the Wads Boulder | |||||
V2 | Central Line
Obvious twin crack lines up centre of boulder. Stand start, move up to crimp then head slightly left and up. Top out is mossy and very committing, not advised when wet. | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Big Bastard | |||||
V2 | Bastard Slab
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ The Full Banana
Traverse climb beginning at leftmost arete. Using rails and flakes along the low section of the face finishing with a match in the large pocket. FA: Sam Jacobs, 16 Jan 2020 | 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Weilly Annoying Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Flake of Fear
Obvious arete line of bulgy sidepulls, trending slightly left. Stand start and follow the crack/arete to high top out. Descent is committing and may require pads/spotters. | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Jigsaw
| 5m | |||
V2 | Rhetorical Question Mark
| 5m | |||
V2 | Apostrophe Protection Society
| 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Weill Deal Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Weill Strong
Left arete of the boulder. Sit start with right undercling and left pinch, head up. Watch your back on the block behind. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Close Shave Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Weilly Wather Wowying
| 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Weilly, Weilly Good Looking
Sit start with a side pull and an edge. Straight up to a jug. | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Pinch and Punch Boulder | |||||
V2 | Kiss the Moonlight
| 6m | |||
V2 | The Dangerous Dandy
| 6m | |||
V2 | ★ The Penniless Peer
| 6m |