Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Slabby rib 3 metres right of "Out To Pasture"

Climb up to the right side of the overhang. Step left through the overhang to the upper slab and go straight up.

Start: Start a couple of metres right of "Getafix" just left of the right edge of the main slab.

This has a pretty hefty overhang for the grade.

Start 3 metres right of "Juggler> below a crack in the roof.

Climb straight up to the crack in the roof, over and up.

Delightful but contrived.

Centre of the slab 3 metres right of "Slippery Dip" and left of steep wall.

Contrived. Centre of narrow slab 5 metres around right of "Fringe Benefits"

Further right into the alcove, right of the off-width, is a corner with twin cracks.

Start at a pronounced rib about 20 metres right of Little Round Jug. Climb the rib and continue directly up the slab.

Left of the cave/boulder where the pad meets the cliff is a big wall bounded on its right by a gaping chasm. Start at the gaping chasm. Primeval bridging and chimneying with sparse protection. Avoid the pterodactyl nesting season.

1. 25m Scramble up into the chasm and chimney up outside the tree ferns. Move up and into a wide groove in the left wall. where a bridging stance can be taken.

2. 27m Continue up the chasm to belay below the enormous chockstone. 3 30m Exit up the cave on the left to a gully. Climb a crack on the left wall and finish up easy jugs.

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

This climb appears to take the juggy flake system just left of "Lionhearted". Just to confuse things, here's the original location description, but don't take it too seriously : "The buttress to the left of a large tree growing flat across the track, just up the hill from 'Lionhearted'.".

Start 7 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again" at crack separating the detached block from the main face.

Follow the main crack until it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress.

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall.

Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.

Start: Start at juggy line 3 metres left of "Pangur Ban" on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.

The next four climbs are on west-facing wall left of and at right angles to Ray Ban and to the right of the large orange roof. On the right-hand side is a large "double chimney".

Start at the arete immediately right of the right-hand chimney.

Up, starting just left of the arete.

Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline. Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof).

The right arete of the left-hand chimney.

Start: Start at the base of the left-hand chimney.

This and next micro-route are behind the Lion's Head itself. From the top of Decapitating Tweety Birds walk back to the juggy wall immediately behind the back wall of the Lion's Head. On the right arete is a narrow strip of rock in an airy position. Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.

Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.

Not very well protected The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag.

Good. Much better protection than Nice Puss Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack.

Another variant. Start as for Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up groove to break. Go diagonally right to the obvious break in the wall and up.

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb. Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up initial crack for 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.

The far left arete.

The grey slab visible uphill from "The Mountain Lion".

Climb the central crack on the juggy wall.

Start: Starts at the slabby buttress at the right hand end of the upper tier. The route Air Raid is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Not bad for an accident. The left arete of the grey wall.

The central line on the face.

They don't make climbs like this anymore. Climb the left edge of the outcrop.

Start: Start in broken corner-cum-gully 90 metres right of where the track hits the cliff. This is directly below the step in the huge roofs high up and a forked gumtree 40 metres up.

1. 44m (7) Climb the corner to the large. vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (7) Climb the small buttress, tending right to a large chimney.

3. 44m (7) Move up and traverse right into the chimney. Continue up the line to a belay above some bushes.

4. 46m (7) Up the line to belay amongst the jugs.

5. 6m (-) Scramble up to the terrace. Walk to the juggy arete on the left.

6. 42m (7) Climb the arete, move right, along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

Start near the right end of the right wall.

Pull up then continue up and slightly left to the base of a groove. Up the groove, taking care with the rock.

Climb crack above cairn for 8 metres, step left and continue up wall.

Climb straight up grey rock past some bulges.

Follow the prominent left-leaning crack/ramp until below the final roof. Step right and steeply up.

Left of Peregrine is a gully which is the normal descent route. On the east side of the gully is a cliff with a roof towards its left side. Two lines lead up to the roof.

This is the right-hand line, a flake, to the roof. Move right and up to a bushy ledge. Chimney to top.

Climb the left line to the roof and exit left.

The juggy crack up the arete opposite the pinnacle.

Right ramp leading up to arête. Starts 1m right of Babysitters Delight.

Gravelly. Stand-start on the left arete and climb toward the right then up.

Nice looking feature but on poor rock. Crouch-start in scoop and move directly up.

Slightly harder. Crouch-start, move toward the right, and up.

Sit-start on left arete and move direct up the highest point. Don't escape left.

Heavily featured slab. Ascend direct.

Beautiful rock slab with great holds. Stand-start and follow the crack up and left. Bonus points for using the underclings in the crack.

Beautiful arete with great holds. Stand-start and follow the left arete until the centre and top out.

Gain the low crack then onto and left up slab direct.

Low angle orange slab immediately right of Flakeridge Slab, veering too far right lowers the grade.

From the whitish left corner move up direct.

Climb as for Ramp exiting slightly right.

Way over R before the main wall begins to shorten.

Up the wide chimney, onto large chockstone then up handcrack on left to top.

Similar to Coolu. Up wide chimney and top out left.

Climb the slopey arete.

Climb the good rock (its orange) up the pillar.