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Ascents in Mallorca by Anderl

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 260 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
7a Las uñas de Dori - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin Sport 13m, 8
No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.

 
6b+ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin Sport 18m, 9
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight

 
Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà
Catedral
6a ~5a Sapporo - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 25m Very Good
Mega super soft

 
6a/a+ Al Capone - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 15m Very Good
Nice & technical, not that obvious.

 
6c+/7a La marmita - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport Classic
Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.

 
6c+/7a La marmita - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport Classic
Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...

 
Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Valldemossa
Main Crag
7a Something — 2 attempts - with Arvin, Jarno Sport 12m Good
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void

 
Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
5b - c Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno Sport 25m, 12 Very Good
6b+ La Gaditana - with LFF, Jarno Sport 24m Very Good
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.

 
6a Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno Sport 20m, 12
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa
Duck
6b/b+ Princesa Mara - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF Sport
6b ORC - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF Sport 25m, 10 Good
6c Vivan las jarras - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF Sport 17m, 6 Classic
Man, I got fat, weak, whatever

 
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa
Radio 3
NN2 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 15m
In sneakers

 
NN1 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 15m
In sneakers

 
Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà
Catedral
5 Moretti - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 20m Very Good
6a Ladri di Arange - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 25m, 10
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.

 
5c Lucas - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 18m Very Good
Not that easy versus the end.

 
6a Tierra doy una / Sutra - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 30m, 13 Very Good
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...

 
Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Valldemossa
Main Crag
7a Something - with LFF Sport 12m Good
And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!

 
7a Something - with LFF Sport 12m
Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.

 
Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
5c Jarribaras P1 - with LFF
1 5c Sport
Sport 40m
Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat

 
6b Relaja la Raja P1 - with LFF
1 6b Sport
Sport Classic
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.

 
6c+ Cachinochalgo - with LFF Sport 15m, 13 Very Good
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben

 
6c+ Cachinochalgo - with LFF Sport 15m, 13 Very Good
Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal Aufwärmen & kalibrieren.

 
Tue 21st Feb 2023 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6b+ Las Margaritas - with LFF, Giggler
1 5b 19 Second lead by LFF
2 6b+ 25 Sport lead by Anderl
3 6b+ 22 Sport lead by Anderl
Sport 66m
Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten

 
Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà
Unknown
6c Unknown - with LFF Sport
Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.

 
6a+ Unknown 6a+ - with LFF Sport Classic
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.

 
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6b+ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler Sport 24m
Much easier if you know what to do

 
5b Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 9
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.

 
6b+ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler Sport 24m
Short cruxy section before the overhang

 
6a Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler Sport 20m, 12
5c DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler Sport 30m, 12 Very Good
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
7a 6c+ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 15m, 13 Very Good
Checking out the moves

 
7a Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 15m, 13 Very Good
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day

 
6b Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 30m, 13 Very Good
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...

 
6a+ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 27m, 10 Good
5b 5b - c Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 25m, 12 Very Good
Fri 5th Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu
5c Placa - with Giggler Sport 22m, 6 Good
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...

 
Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Caimari
Hairpin Wall
5 Right - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue Sport 22m Good
6a+ Pocket - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue Sport 30m Very Good
Until after the crux, but lockdown made me have sissy fingers and sissy feet, just too painful to go on. Otherwise a really nice long and homogeneous climb, stays interesting even in the less steep sections.

 
5 Curving Groove - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue Sport 21m Average
Tue 2nd Nov 2021 - Sa Font
6a+ 6a NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - with Sandra †, Giggler Sport 12m, 5 Good
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...

 
5c 5b - c Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - with Sandra †, Giggler Sport 12m, 5 Average
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.

 
Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Puig de Garrafa
To pa ti
6b The Lion Slayer - with Jarno, Giggler, Yue Sport Very Good
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.

 
6a+ Skidmark - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport Good
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.

 
6a Itchy feet - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport Good
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.

 
Fri 28th Feb 2020 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6b Enanismo emocional - with LFF Sport 15m, 8 Good
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.

 
7a Cachinochalgo - with LFF Sport 15m, 13 Very Good
One hanger, missed a foothold in the beginning dusk. Should be no problem after optimising a bit the middle section - maybe next time. Incredibly high density of bolts, take all quickdraws you have!

 
6b+ Las bolas del chino - with Sandra †, Jarno
1 6b+ 20m
Sport 20m, 16 Very Good
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?

 
6c+ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † Sport 18m, 9 Very Good
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish

 
Thu 27th Feb 2020 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6c+ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 18m, 9 Very Good
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.

 
6a+ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 25m, 11 Very Good
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!

 
Wed 26th Feb 2020 - Tazmania
6c Madame Déficit - with Sandra †, LFF Sport Very Good
Excellent short & super hard slab, very technical. Should be doable, but definetly would require some runs to find the best sequence. The team requests a trip to the next café instead...

 
6a+ Lucas - with Sandra †, LFF Sport Very Good
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.

 
5+ Kulunguele - with Sandra †, LFF Sport Good
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.

 
Tue 25th Feb 2020 - Cala Bota
5c El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler Sport 12m, 6 Good
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!

 
5c Elmo Love - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler Sport 11m Very Good
Too hot to climb seriously

 
Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Valldemossa
Main Crag
5c Dali - with LFF, Sandra † Sport 13m Very Good
Quickdraw rescue

 
6c+ Sostre den burotet - with LFF, Sandra † Sport 15m Mega Classic
Stopped on the way home to have a quick sunset try. Great fun, but needs some more work to figure out a more efficient selection of jugs. Epic fight together with LFF to get down the quickdraws.

 
Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Es Torrent
6c Happy Starting - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno Sport 15m Very Good
Very nice athletic route, but the upper bolts are in pretty bad condition. Got super scared because I really didn't wanted to fall; finally reached an anchor which was too rusty for abseiling - continued to the other (good) one higher to the left...

 
6a+ Andritxoleta - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno Sport 15m Classic
Super nice tufa fun

 
Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda
6a+ Lucas forever - with LFF Sport 20m, 5 Good
Quickdraw rescue

 
6b+ Relaja el hojete - with LFF Sport 25m, 9
Top rope service for LFF Still too wrecked from the fight before.

 
7a La puerta - with Sandra † Sport 15m
Same procedure as every year, James. Felt strong, climbed well and failed seriously. Basically it goes, but with my sequence I just can't clip the 4th bolt - not because I'm out of the line, but because of barndoor troubles. Maybe there are some possibilities more to the right, but I give up now, finally removed this one from the list of projects.

 
5+ 5c Gorrinos.com - with Sandra † Sport 20m, 9 Good
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Salto
6a Chicharra loca - with LFF Sport 16m, 7 Very Good
Good bye route in the evening sun.

 
4c Fluffy - with LFF Sport 10m Good
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Colmena
6b+ Ella ya no vive aqui - with LFF Sport 18m Good
Too hot, no motivation, time for some chilling around.

 
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Corral
4 Aprendizaje por tercios - with LFF Sport 18m, 7 Classic
Nice & hard for the grade.

 
Fri 8th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota
3c Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...

 
7a Todo bene - with LFF Sport 12m, 6 Good
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!

 
6b Kalki - with Giggler Sport 15m Very Good
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.

 
6a Touch the sky - with LFF Sport 13m, 5 Classic
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!

 
5c Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler Sport 12m, 5 Good
Thu 7th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota
7a Todo bene - with LFF Sport 12m, 6
7a Todo bene - with LFF Sport 12m, 6
Almost, almost, just one hanger due to a not entirely nailed beta. And then it was getting dark, once again

 
6b Sobre el coral - with LFF Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense

 
6b Sobre el coral - with LFF Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.

 
5c Maria - with Norima Sport 12m, 5 Classic
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.

 
6a+ Wonder Woman - with LFF Sport 10m, 6 Classic
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it

 
5b+ Banita - with LFF Sport 10m, 2 Mega Classic
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?

 
Wed 6th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Duck
6c Vivan las jarras - with Giggler Sport 17m, 6 Classic
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.

 
6c Vivan las jarras - with Giggler Sport 17m, 6 Classic
Finger crack jamming with a bad finger - not a good idea!

 
6b ORC - with LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
6b ORC - with LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.

 
6b ORC - with LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
So painful!

 
5b 5a Fup - with Giggler Sport 23m, 8 Very Good
Tue 5th Mar 2019 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
5c Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler Sport 23m, 10 Classic
No permission of the team to lead this beauty

 
6c Via morito - with LFF Sport 22m, 12 Classic
2 hangs, the first in the lower slab of course

 
6c Via morito - with LFF Sport 22m, 12 Classic
Totally messed up the upper crux.

 
6c Via morito - with LFF Sport 22m, 12 Classic
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...

 
6a La Matate Chorrea - with Norima Sport 25m, 7 Very Good
Nice, but an awful and thin runout to the anchor.

 
Mon 4th Mar 2019 - La Vall Verda
5b 5a Comando pastillero - with LFF Sport 25m Very Good
7a La puerta - with Sandra † Sport 15m Good
Forgot everything...

 
7a La puerta - with Sandra † Sport 15m Good
Pretty close, but unluckily one silly foot error. Stupid 4th bolt!

 
7a La puerta - with Sandra † Sport 15m Good
Slowly this is getting my nemesis, but just not enough fuel left. And a huge bee's nest next to the anchor - not clear if I should go back on it...

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Puig St. Martí
6a Atila - with Sandra † Sport 18m, 6 Good
5+ 5a - c Alzheimer - with LFF Sport 25m, 8 Very Good
4+ 4c Pedorretas - with LFF Sport 26m, 7 Good
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 260 ascents.

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