Routes in Mallorca for selected grade

6a written on the wall, 5c in Rockfax guide, 8a.nu consensus5c/6a.

Technical reachy start through a mostly gripless crack, then easier to a ledge and over it on countless jugs.

Same start as "Dona Simena", then right through the slabby groove.

Start using the tree to gain some easy tufas. Follow them until a huge cave and stay concentrated for a tricky pull out of it.

Straight up on small holds to and passing a big hollow flake.

Insignificant short route some metres right and down from "Puta guiri".

Buena escalada técnica de pared sin un quid definido. Comience a la izquierda de un pequeño arbusto, luego suba principalmente hacia arriba.

Good technical wall climb without distinct crux. Start left of a small bush, then climb mostly straight up.

Largo y agradable largo en pared solitaria en el extremo derecho de la peña, fácil para el grado. Muévase hacia arriba hasta una arete y sobre ella (varias variaciones posibles), luego airee hacia abajo.

Long and nice pitch on lone wall at the right end of the crag, easy for the grade. Move up to an arete and over it (several variations possible), then airy to the lower-off.

Steep technical climbing.

Steep technical climbing.

Hay quien la considera 6a+.

6a+ in 2020 Rockfax.

6a in 2020 Rockfax.

6a in 2020 Rockfax.

6a in 2020 Rockfax.

6a+ in 2020 Rockfax.

Los primeros 3 metros son bastante duros.

The first 3 meters are quite hard.

Los primeros 3 metros son bastante duros.

The first 3 meters are quite hard.

Technical climbing towards a small overhang, with increasing difficulty towards the top. The anchor is very hard to reach (lost holds?)

Starts at the blunt arete on the right of the slab, then continues up the slab.

Up face and onto slab.

Se empieza por el 4 y se desvía hacia la derecha, juntandose con el otro 6a.

Rusty bolts.

Excellent line through the lower huge holes and then a bit right through the upper smooth wall. The upper wall seems impossible for the grade at a first glance, but there is a way through. Recommended! Polished...

P2 rusted bolts 😬

1. 6a. Head rightwards past a tree.

2. 5c. Climb the wall to a corner and belay above.

3. 5c. The wall direct to a belay.

4. 6a. Traverse left past a corner and climb a wall to a belay at a tree. A variation on the right is 7a.

5. 5c. Climb up left and then back right and up to a belay.

6. 5c. A long pitch up walls and bulges to a belay on the arete.

7. 5c. Climb to the top. Descent - Follow the descent as for Albahida.

Variation pitch right of pitch 2 of La ley del deseo

Pitch 1 same as "The Master"

Line of bolts right of 'Placa aspera' (right-hand line on the wall). Sustained and excellent.

Appears new as of September 2016; grade is approximate.

at east-side right of Via Normal.

1. 20 m (5) follow bolts leading slightly to the right to anchors
2. 20 m (6a) traverse left to crack in corner (2 pitons) that leads to tree on ledge (anchor of Via Normal);
3. 20 m (5) traverse ledge to the right, follow chimney and slabs to the top. Small set of friends and rocks needed. Helmet recommended.

follow two old looking bolts in south-east side leaning right to first anchor of Via M. Small set of friends and rocks needed.

north-east corner (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)