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Klövberget Mostly Trad climbing 42 routes in crag

42
SWE
4-4+56-6+78-8+9-9+10

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
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Description

Sverigeföraren: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/klovberget/

Access issues

Crag located in nature reserve. Drilling / bolting not allowed. Private land (garden) in front of / north of the crag. It is only ok to enter from above.

Sweden climbing association access database: http://access.bergsport.se/klovberget-tyreso/

Approach

(59.222002, 18.351191)

Designated parking for klövbergets naturreservat, along Mokärrsvägen.

Follow the trails to the top of the crag and rep in. Note! Not allowed to walk in from below, over private land.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Boulder Back to contents

2
8A Land Grabbing Boulder
3
8A+ Land Grabbing Low Boulder
4
8A+ Land Grabbing ss Boulder
5
7B+ Allemansrätten Boulder
6
7B Fem stycken tacobröd Boulder

Left wall Back to contents

Route 1-4 should be avoided.

8
4+ Piece of cunt Trad 6m

Route on private line. Access sensitive. Climbing should be avoided.

9
6- Timmar av kärklek/År av hat Trad 20m

Route on private line. Access sensitive. Climbing should be avoided.

10
6 Kärlek dirket Trad 12m

Route on private line. Access sensitive. Climbing should be avoided.

11
4 The west face of the Prick Trad 5m

Route on private line. Access sensitive. Climbing should be avoided.

12
5 Bred klyfta av ljus Trad 15m
13
6 Eva Trad
14
FR:5c Hugget som stucket Trad

Main wall Back to contents

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16
{FR} 5+ Sans nomine Trad 15m
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17
{FR} 5+ ★ Skamvägen Trad 15m

FA: Daniel Bidner, 1984

18
{FR} 4+ ★★★ Skamvrån Trad 20m

FA: Lars Svadängs & Lars Cronlund, 1978

19
FR:6c+ Dynamisk frossa Trad

FA: Daniel Bidner, 1984

20
FR:6c Drömmen om hiltin Trad 25m

FA: Lars Grankvist & Lars Svadängs, 1986

21
FR:6a+ Rampljus Trad 25m

FA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1979

22
{FR} 6b ★★★ Hemorojdführer Trad 25m

FA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1979

23
{FR} 5c ★★ Hemorojdvrån Trad 25m

Same start as for Hemorojdfuhrer. Climb up to the big ledge. Therafter, continue up Skamvrån by traversing left on the big ledge to the expanding flake. Good protection when needed. Be aware of using cams atvthe top part due to loose big blocks. The route can be divided into two pitches using the big ledge as a stand.

FFA: Johan Sandberg & Patrik Roos, 2011

FA: Johan Sandberg & Patrik Roos, 2011

24
FR:5b Feberkurvan Trad
25
FR:6b Den sspetsige tysken Trad
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26
FR:7b Doseths spricka / Massihs utsteg Trad

FA: erik massih

27
FR:6a+ Shangri-la Trad
28
FR:6c Shangri-la direkt Trad
29
FR:6a+ Den långa flykten Trad
30
AID:A1 Lös början fast till slut Aid
31
FR:6b+ Analfissüren Trad
32
FR:5b Lokförarens laxermedel Trad
33
FR:5b Fatal kalops Trad
34
FR:6a+ Det långa klivet Trad
35
FR:6a+ Rektal prolaps Trad
36
FR:6c+ The final cat Trad 6m

Steep, exposed handjam crack.

FA: Jan Liliemark, 1983

37
FR:6a+ På lätta fötter / Total kollaps Trad

FA: Torgil Abrahmsson, Niklas Björnestedt, Jan Liliemark & Lars Möller

38
FR:5c Pers spricka Trad
39
FR:6a Ampere Trad
40
FR:5a Över huvud taget Trad
41
FR:6a+ Under låret taget Trad
42
FR:4b Linje två Trad

Sjöklippan Back to contents

44
FR:6a Östersundsexpressen Trad
45
FR:5a Havsluft Trad
46
FR:5b Linje tre Trad

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Klättring i Stockholm

Author(s): M. Widerberg

Date: 2018

Climbing and bouldering areas close to Stockholm - over 3000 climbing routes in 57 climbing areas on more than 150 walls

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