Titlis Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Oli Jakob MiniMized Kai Alma luca Zeitter Katherine Choong Steffen Ha Dmitry Zadvornov

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Titlis 26 in Area
- 1.1. Nordwand 10 in Area
- 1.2. Nordgrat 1 in Area
- 1.3. Ostwand 1 in Area
- 1.4. Südwand 5 in Area
- 1.5. Laubersgrat 9 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Titlis 26 routes in Area

2 5 1 3 4

1 Nordwand 2 Nordgrat 3 Ostwand 4 Südwand 5 Laubersgrat

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.780680, 8.432032

1.1. Nordwand 10 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.788888, 8.433113

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Duracell Material: 2x60m rope, 10 quick draws (2 long one) FA: Markus Wicky, Robi Rudolf, Tobias Dollinger, Beat Krummenacher & Mika Arx, 2016	7b	Sport 240m, 9, 10
2	Pipistrello 2x 50m Rope, Slings for Chickenheads, Cams 0.3-3 The Couloir at the top of the route becomes a waterfall when it is raining, bombarding the lower pitches with lose rocks. FA: Bernd Rathmayr, Reto Ruhstaller & Peter von Känel, 2017	7b	Trad 250m, 6
3	Rapunzel 2x 60m rope, one Rack of Cams 0.3-1 FA: Matthias Trottmann & Andy Winterleiter, Aug 2015	7b+	Trad 270m, 7
4	Size Matters / Manchmal kommt es auf die Länge an 2x 50m rope FA: Michael Meyer & Tobias Wolf, 12 Aug 2020 FFA: Michael Meyer & Tobias Wolf, 15 Aug 2020	8a	Sport 340m, 9, 12
5	Last Exit Titlis FFA: Stefan Glowacz & Markus Dorfleitner, 2004	8b	Trad 500m, 13
6	Piz dal Nas Set: Matthias Trottmann, Matthias König, Thomas König & Daniel Schulze, 2008 FFA: Matthias Trottmann & Martin Jaggi, 2010	8b	Sport 500m, 12
7	Leeper Hammer Material Cams 0.5/0.75/1 Set: Tom Henseler, Mäsi Waser & Sämi Speck, 2018 FFA: 17 Aug 2019	7c	Mixed trad 8, 12
8	★★★ Hattori Hanzō FFA: Matthias Trottmann, 2013	8b+	Sport 7
9	★★★ Süpervitamin Material: 2x50m rope,12quick draws, Friends 1-2 Set: Reto Ruhstaller & Bernd Rathmayer, 2012 FFA: Reto Ruhstaller & Bernd Rathmayer, 2012	7b+	Mixed trad 7, 12
10	Land ohne Herren Set: Reto Ruhstaller & Bernd Rathmayer, 2006 FFA: Reto Ruhstaller & Walter Hungerbühler, 2006	7c	Sport 250m, 10, 10

1.2. Nordgrat 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.791216, 8.443758

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Via Ruedi / Direkte Nordkante FA: S. Speck, M. Waser & R. Winkelmann, 2015	6a	Sport 660m, 17, 10

1.3. Ostwand 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.779596, 8.440151

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Higway to Minttu Material: 2x60m Twin Ropes, 10-12 Ice Screws, Cams 0.2-2, div. pitons	WI5+ M5	Ice 660m, 11

1.4. Südwand 5 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.769297, 8.429548

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Cirrus Abwechslungreiche, schöne Route in kompaktem Fels, im Frühsommer Schneerutschgefahr. Seil 2x50 Meter, Express: 10, Keil: 2-8, Frinds;1-3, Abseilen über die Route Set: T. Dollinger M. Wicky, 1996	7a	Trad 11
2	Gelbe Sau Relativ harte Bewertung bei nicht übertriebener Absicherung oberster Wandteil mit fantastischen Chickenheads Seil 2x50 Meter, Express: 10, Keil: 2-8, Frinds;1-3, Abseilen über die Route Set: P. Schoch K. Winkler, 2006	6c	Trad 12
3	Wasserkraftwerk Einfachste Route in der S-Wand, herrliche Wasserrillen im Mittelteil, die letzten 2SL selber absichern Seil 2x50 Meter, Express: 12, Keil: 2-8, Abseilen über die Route Set: P. Schoch K. Winkler, 1988 Set: P. Äbi T.v Attigen, 2010	6b+	Sport
4	Incas Lange und anspruchsvolle Kletterei, wunderbarer Felsen Seil 2x50 Meter, Express: 12, Keil: 2-8, Frinds;1-3, Abseilen über die Route Set: Y. und C. Remy, 1992	7a	Trad 11
5	Tumi Nicht übermässig abgesicherte Route, die auf den Gipfel führt. Bis 11. Seillänge als Abseilpiste eingerichtet. Seil 2x50 Meter, Express: 12, Keil: 2-8, Frinds;1-3, Abseilen über die Route Set: Y. und C. Remy, 1992	7a	Trad 11

1.5. Laubersgrat 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.789440, 8.416748

	Route	Grade	Style
1	First Line	4c	Sport 15m
2	Skiers Left	5a	Sport 15m
3	Nipple Deep	5b	Sport 15m
4	Dr. Küng	5c	Sport 15m
5	Schwedepack	5c+	Sport 15m
6	Secret Spot	6a+	Top rope 15m
7	Epic Conditions	5a	Sport 15m
8	Local Hero	5b	Sport 15m
9	Virgin Line	5c	Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
4c		First Line	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
5a		Epic Conditions	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
		Skiers Left	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
5b		Local Hero	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
		Nipple Deep	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
5c		Dr. Küng	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
		Virgin Line	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
5c+		Schwedepack	Sport 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
6a	★★	Via Ruedi	Sport 660m, 17, 10	1.2. Nordgrat
6a+		Secret Spot	Top rope 15m	1.5. Laubersgrat
6b+		Wasserkraftwerk	Sport	1.4. Südwand
6c		Gelbe Sau	Trad 12	1.4. Südwand
WI5+ M5		Higway to Minttu	Ice 660m, 11	1.3. Ostwand
7a		Cirrus	Trad 11	1.4. Südwand
		Incas	Trad 11	1.4. Südwand
		Tumi	Trad 11	1.4. Südwand
7b		Duracell	Sport 240m, 9, 10	1.1. Nordwand
		Pipistrello	Trad 250m, 6	1.1. Nordwand
7b+		Rapunzel	Trad 270m, 7	1.1. Nordwand
	★★★	Süpervitamin	Mixed trad 7, 12	1.1. Nordwand
7c		Land ohne Herren	Sport 250m, 10, 10	1.1. Nordwand
		Leeper Hammer	Mixed trad 8, 12	1.1. Nordwand
8a		Size Matters	Sport 340m, 9, 12	1.1. Nordwand
8b		Last Exit Titlis	Trad 500m, 13	1.1. Nordwand
		Piz dal Nas	Sport 500m, 12	1.1. Nordwand
8b+	★★★	Hattori Hanzō	Sport 7	1.1. Nordwand

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Titlis 26 routes in Area

1.1. Nordwand 10 routes in Area

1.2. Nordgrat 1 route in Area

1.3. Ostwand 1 route in Area

1.4. Südwand 5 routes in Area

summary

approach

where to stay

1.5. Laubersgrat 9 routes in Sector

description

2. Index by grade