Ascents in United States of America as various tick types

Can't really grade as it's pretty far outside of my normal grades. Basically an approach with a boulder problem.

Three perma QD's are on the overhand before the anchor, so a fun one to try without risk of losing your QD's.

Though first bolt on the perma QD is pulling out a bit, would not whip.

First climb we could clearly identify and therefore chose.

Set the tone for "5.9's" at Spearfish. Oomph

Start is a burly roof that I dogged right out of the gate. Then move right on slab to an incredible, vertical, non-stop crack. If you are a crack climber, you will be in full glory for this climb. Options abound for toe/finger/hand jams. For myself, I had to sit and think. The holds are there, wrapping your brain around what you have to work through might not be.

Beautiful and worth it.

Shares first 5 bolts with Himalyaback to the left. Not 4 like suggested in Mountain Project

Nailed to start this time.

After 5th bolt, you move to the left working very delicate slab. Apparently this is the crux which I worked without issue. The slab portion is a step up in challenge compared to Cranium Crack to the right.

Terrain shifts again to great vertical, if not, slightly overhung seam you layback on. Tricky transition part of the way up that had me stopping, sitting and thinking to then more right lay-backing.

Great climb, very well bolted at the top and heady AF throughout. Honestly, how is this a 5.9? Honestly, would do again - hopefully clean next time.

Punchy climb to a roof bulge and a challenging finish where you move left and bump off an intermediate to a better jug (which, I didn't do and stuck the clip off a challenging slope-y RH finger pocket 😅🤷🏻‍♀️).

Had to sit and think at the roof bulge but made the top clean which is what punts most people off. Nestled to the RHS of the sector classics, beautiful, solid rock.

Great climb, get on it

Described as one of the best 5.10d's at Wild Iris and I can see why! Big moves (including a dyno for me). Pockets abound, but without working feet/tiny edges, you have 21m of hard work ahead of you. Beautifully vertical with a slight slab treat at the end. Think-fest throughout, but with the right read, I can see how it would just be a physical flowfest.

Had a small whip about half way up and a think-rest towards the top. Beautiful, just beautiful - can confirm 7FH.

Mountain Project has yet to list the climb to the left of this (Mutton Busting), so get fully on the RHS of the face from the beautiful looking corner - 2-Star, The Prospect - to climb this lively piece of rock.

tried after onsighting to the first chains. Grabbed the last draw for a lack of positioning to clip.

Tried to onsight, could not do the start boulder

Just took some victory whips on this after sending scotty

Very beta specific slap and face climbing. Fantastic climb.

The line for the grade here!! What a freaking climb 😘👌, probably sandbagged for QLD standards 😅

Deliciously long. The view at the top is a straight out of LOTR.

Varied - crack at the start, a stemmy corner with a bulge/rooflet to work around, delicate pockets, 2 hands-free rests and a roof that made me sit on gear until I could see the Savior.Pocket that takes you to sweets jugs for the anchor.

So bummed I was one move from the onsight.

(Also, the name on Mountain Project is Boob Loob)

Holy Stemming Batman! Was not ready for this as my starter for the day! Felt run out and was not my style, so for me, harder than 5.8. had to have a sit & think. For what I have climbed in the area, it is unique.

I stayed left at the top whereas there are some hectic off width photos on the RHS on Mountain Project.

Tried this after mis-reading Mountain Project & The Crag. Was looking for Stacked Deck (the next one to the left) Very boulder-y, spanny start. Bailed at the first clip. Matt went up it after - it was basically watching him dog up a slabby, crimpy hug-fest fridge.

Frankly, unless you like to hate yourself to the 6th layer of Hell, I would avoid this one, there are so many other lovely 5.10's and 5.11's within 5-10minutes walk.

5.10c on Mountain Project - could be a 5.10d by Aussie standards/style. I really like the layback start but it caught me in the wrong direction about halfway up. Fine edges for feet/foot jam if you know how to use them, otherwise it’s ruthless. Thin, middle but with rests. Top has lovely jugs if you know where to fine them. Demands commitment throughout. Great climb

J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"

tried the onsight. The weird beta in the roof got me

Beautiful, techy climb - varied. Slab start, to a beautiful roof with a committing highfoot move and exposed clip far above the roof, finishing with flowy, techy work with precise feet. Would have a higher grade on the Aussie Ewbanks system.

Fell at the roof - a great climb. Runout spoken about before anchor (on Mountain Project) has since been eliminated, and still feels ballsy AF. So happy for to take the charge on this one and put up the draws. Friend/belay partner felt this was a harder climb than Bush Administration to the left (though less sustained). Would climb this and First Impressions again. This wall is stunning.

First three moves 🙂

Busted my knee 🙃

Coming back for the send (if my fingers let me)

Going with my Canal tradition of sheit-ing the bed on the first climb before nothing but Send Train on harder things after.

Quite nice, varied - but the middle fridge-y area might throw you if you read it wrong like I did. Slabby like many of the lower grade routes here. Still worth a star compared to some of the other 5.8 I did.

Had to stop to think/read it. Clean otherwise. First climb in N. America so slab style a bit foreign to me

Checked Yarrow's placements

Checked Jasson's placements

Checked Kate's placements

Mock Lead because I was spooked by 'Disco Pants P1'. Top half is sport. Asked for a take. Holds are hidden in the bushes to the right. Kinda hard but could lead with practice.

cool route with a fun start. Need to go up to the left at the arete, climb up a bit, find a good hold and then mantle.

Sharp climbing, not super inspiring