Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Trad | ||||||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th May 2007 | |||
Almost onsight - overshot the dyno!
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22 | ★★★ Romancing the Stone | 50m, 12 | Mt Stuart | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Jul 2000 | |||
onsight first pitch
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17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Sammi, Kris, Analissa | 130m, 12 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Apr 2019 | |||
Nice sneaker romp with friends.
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30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Thu 24th May 2007 | ||||
With HB - fell on crux #1, lowered back.
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30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th May 2007 | |||
Last day of trip, last shot, sun setting, belayed by HB himself. What's better than Mega Classic? 7th shot over 4 days. I can quit climbing now.
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30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Wed 23rd May 2007 | ||||
With Neil - fell on crux #1 then to top cleanly
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30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Thu 24th May 2007 | ||||
With HB - fell 5m from top. 100% effort. Almost cried.
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30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 22nd May 2007 | ||||
With JJ - fell on crux #1. Then had to replace all JJ's trad gear with my gear because he ticked it - exhaustion!
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30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 22nd May 2007 | ||||
With JJ - sat before crux #1
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22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Aug 2013 | |||
Finally! Super duper good, but I'm biased
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22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Tue 22nd Apr 2014 | |||
Carter photoshoot on this today. Climbed the business about 30 times The pics look amazing, you'll see.
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24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels - with Sammi | 30m, 10 | Blue Mountains | Thu 28th May 2015 | ||||
Thought this was Golliwog Grades. Wondered why there was a 8-10m runout. Fell in the horrible, sandy, wet mini-corner above the fixed carabiner beneath the small roof up top.
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24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 30m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 7th Jul 2015 | |||
Took a cam this time and was much happier. Still a tricky proposition up the top. [2]
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18 | ★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass Direct - with Sammi | 60m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Sep 2021 | |||
The first pitch is a great arete feature. Tons of trad and 2 carrots. Crux bulge is tricky and pumpy. For the second pitch, the direct certainly seemed the more sensible option and I'm glad we took it. I wonder if many people hit the ledge falling off the start of p2 (especially on second with rope stretch)? Take a panic draw if you have one. I reckon you'd want to be confident climbing 22 on trad to jump on this one. We walked off (staying roped up for the first 30m) which was fine to get back to the Cave Climb abseil, or back to the car if this is your last climb of the day.
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21 | ★★ Ronald Muck | 45m, 9 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Oct 2006 | |||
Climb in one 45m pitch. Good, heady climbing. You need to crank moves above your gear and not fall.
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22 | ★★★ Turning Of The Tide | 30m, 8 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 30th Dec 2006 | |||
One of the best routes in the country/world/solar system. I'm not going to talk it up though.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Tue 29th Sep 2009 | ||||
Couldn't figure crux beta. Had to phone a friend.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | |||
Thanks CRUX mag beta. [4]
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25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 | 28m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Mar 2006 | |||
The best pitch I did here. Thanks phil_nev for the beta!
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | ||||
To top
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | ||||
Redpoint burn. Failed on crux.
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28 | ★★★ Anaconda | 60m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Mar 2006 | |||
Five days on, surprised I managed this. 3rd shot.
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20 | ★★ Megalith | 50m, 8 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Aug 1997 | |||
Redpointed the second pitch later after being benighted first time
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30 | ★★ Tourniquet | 40m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 14th May 2007 | ||||
I was confused.
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22 | ★★★ Turning of the Tide | 30m, 8 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Apr 2003 | |||
Wow - totally amazing arete. We climbed it in a gale and my helmet was acting as a parachute.
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26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Apr 2019 | |||
Tried very hard to onsight - failed. Fell on the span. It's less technical than the Groovy span, but about the same distance. I had so much crap hanging off my harness. A #4 rock and #1.5 cam will do it. Fingers crossed for Saturday.
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27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Was very confident but fell on the span again. Easy to bugger up!
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27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Obviously tricky (pointless?) to grade a reach dependent crux, but for me at 175cm of reach, this is worth 27. Climbed in one pitch via Anaconda p1. If you like stop-start routes, this'll be your jam. [3]
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15 | FA ★★ Get Into The Groove | 50m, 7 | Mt Ngungun | ★ Good | Mon 1st Feb 1999 | |||
Surprisingly good.
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21 | Floater | 20m, 7 | Mt Tibrogargan | Don't Bother | Sat 20th Jan 2007 | |||
Some scary rock past the second FH (needs some more cleaning)
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24 23 | ★★ Some Weird Sin | 30m, 7 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Dec 2006 | |||
Dodgy guidebook meant I needed to have brackets dropped to me from the top on the onsight. Team onsight? Sam did awesome photos.
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26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake | 35m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th May 2007 | |||
This was probably the second ascent. No idea why it's not logged on theCrag. Lucky I have good old reliable 8a.nu as a backup.
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26 | ★★ Jumping Viper - with Sammi | 28m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.
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16 | ★★ Giggles - with Sammi | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | |||
Classic! Just two cams (#1.5 and #2 friend).
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19 | ★★ Black Bart - with Sammi | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | |||
Continually interesting and enjoyable from bottom to top.
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - with Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Fri 25th Mar 2022 | ||||
1.5 hours dogging around, experiencing a piece of climbing history. Did all moves up to and including the birdbath drive-by. Struggled after, didn't really get stood up. Also struggled on the lower heel move, kinda managed it once. Toasted by the time I lowered off. A 20+ year dream to get on this route.
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - with Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||
Punks shot #2. Hot, face melting. Was mostly keen to experience the top section. Climbed clean to below the heel move, pulled through. Climbed from the rest and stuck the drive-by, couldn't stand up, then pulled through. Did the rest of moves, not nicely, with screaming skin. Then drive 11 hours home!
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27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure — 3 attempts - with @1293 | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th May 2023 | |||
What a ripper. Mega quest up an imposing wall with a bouldery crux. 3rd shot.
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22 | ★★★ Northern Exposure | 30m, 6 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Apr 2003 | |||
Continuous
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23 | ★★ Shark's Fin | 25m, 6 | Redcliffs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2003 | |||
Second shot Skidmore, at it again! [pic]
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19 | ★★★ Fishing With Dynamite - with Sammi | 24m, 6 | Wilyabrup | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th May 2019 | |||
Super interesting, engaging climbing all the way. Great!
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24 | FA ★★ Tight As A Drum | 30m, 5 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Mon 5th May 2008 | |||
Eliminated aid for FFA, grade 24. [2]
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20 | ★★ Snake Charmer | 20m, 5 | Serpent | ★ Good | Sat 15th Mar 2003 | |||
22 | ★★ Lesbian Printshop Workers | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Wed 16th Oct 2002 | ||||
Attempt 1: I jumped off after not being able to get the RP in. Craziness. (Have top roped it before)Attempt 2: Put the RP in, but it seemed crap and I couldn't commit.
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18 | ★ Cassandra | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | 1998 | |||
seconded again in 2002
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21 | ★★ The Better the Boy the More the Joy | 21m, 5 | Mt Stuart | ★ Good | Tue 1st Jul 1997 | |||
28 | ★★★ Debrilla | 25m, 5 | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Aug 2005 | |||
7/8/05: Seconded clean [3/9]. 21/8/04: worked [3/7]. 15/8/04: TR'd 3rd shot [1/4]
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24 | ★★ Tight As A Drum | 30m, 5 | Brooyar | Mon 5th May 2008 | ||||
Big fall while trying to eliminate the aid.
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22 | ★★★ On Edge | 28m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Sat 28th Dec 2002 | ||||
f**king hard!
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19 | FA ★★ Ishoni | 35m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 1999 | |||
First lead attempt of two attempts overall
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24 | ★★ Feargrounds For Insanity | 20m, 5 | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 1999 | |||
about 6 rests on top rope
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25 | ★★★ Physical Meditation | 30m, 5 | Mt Stuart | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jun 1998 | |||
only got to crux
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21 | FA ★★ The Fifth Element | 25m, 5 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Jul 1998 | |||
21 | ★★ Sticks And Stones DS | 34m, 5 | Mt Maroon | Crap | Sun 11th May 2003 | |||
Grrrrrrr!!!! Three falls on the first bolt before bailing and doing the regular version instead.
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23 | ★ Ego | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Tue 28th Nov 2000 | |||
[2/3]
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20 | ★★ Atomic Punk | 25m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Fri 1st Dec 2000 | ||||
21 | ★ Green Lantern | 18m, 5 | Mt Stuart | ★ Good | Fri 1st Aug 1997 | |||
to 4th FH
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19 | ★ Mr Plow | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Thu 24th Feb 2005 | |||
best to take some gear for the crack
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23 | Liquid Skin - with JJ | 18m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Sun 4th Nov 2012 | |||
Start was a vomitorium. You're lucky if you get to climb this dry I think. Overall, a bit weird.
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24 | ★★ Hate Mail - with Neil | 25m, 5 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Mar 2013 | |||
A Monty route, climbed with Monty. Some of the best rock around up high, pretty impressive. You have to jam a cam in a critical pod which is your handhold which I actually thought was cool. Don't be put off by the rusty U-bolts, they're fine. Needs some stainless mallions added to anchor.
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23 | ★★ Last Man Standing | 25m, 5 | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Apr 2014 | |||
Don't be so hard on yourself Monty - this route is as good as any of the others. Nor does it feel squeezed in to me. I notice people are avoiding the grade 23 finish by going right to the anchors on SS Minnow.
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21 | ★ Spangled Drongo - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 20m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 5th Jul 2015 | |||
Thin crux 5 grades harder than the rest.
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19 | ★★ Looking For The Sun | 40m, 4 | Brooyar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd May 2004 | |||
The start is evil
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23 | ★★ Monkey on a String | 120m, 4 | Frederick Peak | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Aug 2009 | |||
2nd p1, OS p2. Pitch 2 needs some chains on the slab, not the dicky 15m trad sketchfest above. p3+p4 not done.
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19 | ★★ Looking For The Sun | 40m, 4 | Brooyar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Dec 1997 | |||
1 aid off first bolt
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25 | ★★ Dagda | 20m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Mar 2004 | |||
2nd shot. Downclimbed Maponus p1, leaned across to first bolt and climbed from there. This is the route's second ascent.
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18 | ★★ Sticks And Stones | 33m, 4 | Mt Maroon | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th May 2003 | |||
You really get your money's worth for 18
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21 | FA Parachuting Geckos | 20m, 4 | Mt Stuart | Average | Tue 24th Nov 1998 | |||
19 | ★ Bubonic Man | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Crap | Fri 25th Oct 2002 | |||
not independent enough to be enjoyable
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19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks | 20m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2003 | |||
A very good moderate route
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28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Mar 2006 | |||
Took a leak mid-way on the redpoint. 3rd shot.
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25 | ★★ Crystal Ships | 20m, 4 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Feb 2007 | |||
Happy not to blow this punchy number. Intricate upper section on RPs almost had me stymied. Not a pure onsight as I'd rapped past it.
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21 | FA ★ Schrapnel In My Backyard | 15m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jan 2007 | |||
Everything that could go wrong went wrong, but I got it done in the end.
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23 | ★★★ Liquid Daze | 30m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2003 | |||
One way hard move.
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23 | ★★★ Liquid Insanity | 35m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2003 | |||
Felt like around 1.5 hours on the lead.
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23 | ★★ Hate Crimes | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2000 | |||
2nd shot. 3 pieces in.
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22 | ★★ Sea Of Fools | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | Fri 1st Sep 2000 | ||||
18 | FA ★★ One for the Kids (Trad version) | 27m, 4 | Castle Hill | ★ Good | Sun 19th Apr 1998 | |||
19 | ★★ Looking For The Sun | 40m, 4 | Brooyar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd May 2009 | |||
Exactly 5 years between drinks. Bizarre! Sam cruised the start first shot. That's my wife
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20 | ★★ Wimps in the Gym | 16m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Mar 1996 | |||
15 16 R | ★ Insomnia | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Tue 3rd Dec 2002 | ||||
runout
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23 | Chameleon | 15m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★ Good | Fri 18th Sep 1998 | |||
My open project. I have climbed it fully, but with rests on crux [1/2] 18/9/98
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19 18 | ★ Gearbox Gastro | 25m, 4 | Urbenville | Sat 1st May 1999 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Mar 2006 | |||
Sustained climbing with a hard traverse. 3rd shot.
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25 | ★★ Dagda | 20m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Oct 2009 | |||
Linked in from Voluptuous. Dogged to remember moves.
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24 | ★★ Batten The Hatches | 10m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Apr 2003 | |||
1 FH and 3 rings up overhanging wall L of Cut And Thrust
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18 | ★ Wounded Knee | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Wed 1st Nov 2000 | |||
21 | ★★★ Rock Sex Direct Start (RS Direct Start) | 25m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jul 1998 | |||
19 | FA ★★★ The Dark Crystal | 28m, 4 | The Citadel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Aug 1998 | |||
The stuff climbing dreams are made of
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22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | Arapiles | Mon 11th Nov 2002 | ||||
Did the giant leap on the start (gulp!)
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24 | ★★ Batten The Hatches | 10m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Dec 2006 | |||
Cleaning up an old dog. Damn hard crux move!
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20 | ★★ Fist Full of Ants | 20m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Mar 1997 | |||
[1/2] (led after being top roped)
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15 | ★ Street Ruffians | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Wed 18th Sep 2002 | ||||
classic Carter sandbag. More like 17.
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24 | ★★ Barracouta | 30m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Jan 2007 | |||
So fricken desperate! More like solid 25.
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25 24 | ★★ Kanoon | 12m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 6th Oct 2002 | ||||
3rd shot. Huge steep dyno crux
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22 | ★★ G & M's Climb | 20m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Jun 2003 | |||
Sweet. Not too hard for 22. (TR'd 14/6/03)
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22 | FA ★ Space Cowboy | 23m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★ Good | Sat 24th Oct 1998 | |||
21 | ★ Nice Face Shame About the Jugs | 12m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jun 1998 | |||
18 | ★★ Flame 'n' Sparks | 25m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Apr 2000 | |||
Really good climbing
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26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Mar 2006 | |||
Very close to the onsight. 2nd shot.
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