Routes in World for selected grade

Climbs the easternmost of the three major south buttresses of Combatant above the col. Approached via a bench at the elevation of the col (the Shelf)

FFA: Saurabh C.

Inicio técnico, con salida a desplome y cazuelas , comparte seccion superior con papanicolau

Descend the pocket glacier to the base of the southeast buttress. Climb this buttress, through sandy broken terrain and with poor protection in places in the first ~75m. Above this, the rock improves up a steep yellow slab to a small gendarme. Descend into the notch and climb easier ground above to the summit.

Descend as per the West Ridge (down that route.)

Goes to bypass anchor.

Climb the black, lichen-covered depression in the south face, following corner systems to the east ridge, then to the summit.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

FFA: Shwetank Kumar

Offwidth

An epic lead by Amrit Appadan supposed by Iniyan Sivaneri bumping up #5 and #6 for a fair distance.

Offwidth crack

The crack starts to the right on the south facing wall, as a hand crack, traverses left and opens up into the crux off-width. Past the offwidth, further short traverse to the left as hand crack and then along a flake and then the heady but easy top- out.

Rack: Upto #4, or #5 (optional).

Anchor: Crack (Finger and hand cracks)

Natural Anchor: Boulder and tree. Long anchor.

FKA, Sohan with support from Amrit Appaden and Karthik Maddineni, Feb 2021

Relais équipé

Bolted line between Among the Stars and Aphrodite. Thin and technical down low, easing toward the top.

Begins off of the ledge atop Hollow Flake, Zamboni Man and Sprout Route. Follows the line of bolts to climber's right of the tree. Low crux leads to sustained and enjoyable friction.

interesante via. se desconoce el aperturista ya que al equipar el anclaje se pillaron pitones antiguos.

un diesecito largo, el crux esta a la mitad es un paso de izquierda a derecha. preferentemente cuerda de 70 metros

Actually a top rope route.

Muchos bloques por hacer de grado muy variado. Varios problemas abiertos de 5º y 6º grado.

4+, 3, 5+, 6b (5+/A0), 5+, 5+, 6b (5+/A0), 6a, 4+, 4, 6a, 5, 5

The second biggest cove area, directly near the port and ship docking area (http://kko.to/pRLchd7fj). A strong traverse with sharp crimps make a splendid workout.

On the lower tier below the roof boulder are some good features for warming up. Problems from V0-V5ish. About 6 or 7 problems from memory...

7b / 6a A0. A long and enticing line up the beautiful Roque de las Animas. The route starts at a chalky overhang with an obvious approach through the ferns. This route is not nearly as serious as you might expect from a 250m climb, with a line of bolts leading the way. The route can be climbed at 6a A0 if you pull on bolts through the hard moves, though on the lower pitches it is stiff for that grade. The upper pitches of 7a and 7b are bolt ladders for easy aid. The route can be climbed on bolts alone, but a light trad rack is highly recommended, especially for the 1st pitch. Bolts lead all pitches except for the second half of the 6th pitch, this requires gear in easy choss, tending left and leading to an anchor under the final roof.

Guidebook 7b? Video 6a with topo at 0:06.

Shares 1st bolt and anchor with "Route 6".

Shares 1st bolt and anchor with "Route 7".

Starts at the left corner of the east-facing wall; go up 6 bolts to the top of the column and chain anchors (5.10a); safer to belay here if doing the more serious 3 bolts finish (5.12b)

Lots of variants

Cara oeste/sur. L1: 6a, L1+L2: 7a+

Per questa via è possibile scegliere tra due versioni. L1 6a L2 7a+

Informazione : https://www.infoelba.it/sport-tempo-libero/sport-terra/free-climbing/san-bartolomeo/

Inicio tipo boulder, el crux es de la segunda a la tercer banda, saliendo de este es puro tramite, las primeras 3 placas se proteje con mano derecha las demas con izquiera. No retirarce mucho de las placas.

Left of the large low roof withe Rain route, just underneath 30 degree corner half way up. Start at a small roof with an under-cling hold climb a steep face with large side-pull on the left and finger crack on the right to better holds. Cruse long moderate but steep and sustained face to chain anchors.

Arranque muy tranquilo, el crux esta entre la tercer y cuarta placa, la ruta va sobre una grieta. sliedo el cruz se hace escalada tipo diedro.

PARA ESTABLECER UN TOP ROPE, SE PUEDE HACER UN RAPEL, HAY QUE TENER CUIDADO PORQUE LA CUERDA SE PUEDE ATORAR.

UNA RUTA MUY BONITA, TIENE SLAB, GRIETA, REGLETAS, DIEDRO, ESTÁ MUY COMPLETA.

3 bolts. Climb up fairly big moves between good ledges, then work up some crimpy holds to the top. Don’t bail out right to maintain the difficulty.

Between Baby Cakes and Benvenidos. Go straight up to chains. Start on face with small side ramp for feet, then rounded flake grab with right hand. Up on face, then work left onto recessed face with small handholds above and right foothold on rounded edge. The move up from this is the crux. Face then starts rolling off. Ascend fun off width with little bushy tree at bottom. Climb rolls off again, then 5.8 to 5.9 face which soon rolls off, hence to chains.

5.11d on some old route list. In the route tag at the start of route reads 5.12a now. It must have been upgraded.

Cara oeste/sur. L1: 5c, L1+L2: 7a/7a+

Per questa via è possibile scegliere tra tre versioni. L1 5b L2 IV L3 IV+

Informazione : https://www.infoelba.it/sport-tempo-libero/sport-terra/free-climbing/san-bartolomeo/

Warm up on the right of No name (steep), start from the left, the grade depends on how far you traverse to the right

esta adentrandose en la junglita del lado izquierdo es muy prominente

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

versiones

Eigentlich kann man hier alles machen und ausprobieren.