Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
AU:6 | ★★ Exodus
Delightful. Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of Edgell Gerber at a shallow corner. FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967 | 36m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Revolver Crack
The deep crack. Start 20m right of Melville's Cave. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★★ Guiding Light
A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.
FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1998 | 60m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | ★ Charity
Up the crack. Start: Start under the L crack on the main face. FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 14m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Spidermonkey
Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'. Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled. FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012 | 15m, 8 | Kangaroo Point | ||
AU:7 | ★ Little Revolver Crack
Discontinuous cracks. Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'. | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Saturday Afternoon Walk
The easiest climb on the cliff. Wander up the line of least resistance to the right of RAA. It's also a good way to get to Plume Ledge quickly. FA: Ron Collett (free solo)., 1969 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
AU:6 | ★ Cobb & Co.
The steep orange corner facing L. Start 0.5m R of OC. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | ★ Trooper One
Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack. Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully. FA: Peter Martin, 1981 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Trooper Three
The crack with a hard start. Start at the right side of the grey wall. FA: Peter Martin, 1981 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Cartridge Chimney
The chimney. Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | ★ Dead Ned
A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | ★ Tullah's Tease
Layback for 5m then step right into crack. Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'. FA: John Fisher, 1983 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | ★ The Nude Balloon Dance
Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch. Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | Marshmallow Sea
Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975 | 14m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Oxbow
1
6
33m
2
6
25m
3
6
32m
4
6
20m
Pitch lengths are definitely inflated Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'
FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1962 | 110m, 4 | Camels Hump | ||
AU:6 R | ★ Cloaca
A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited. Start 2 metres left of V-corner of Pete Made Us Do It. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
AU:7 | ★ Brazil - The Land Of Hot Wax
FFA: Ria Zoeller, Mar 2015 | 10m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
AU:7 | ★ Eat More Parsley
Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top. Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666. FA: Heather Phillips +1, 1985 | 22m | Summerday Valley | ||
AU:7 | ★ Nay Nay The Magical Green Medicine Man
FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sep 2014 | 10m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
AU:7 | ★ Penny
Worth the effort to see the view. Start on the left side of the easy-angle slab. Take the short slab and crack to the right arete, then up this to the top. There is now a triple bolt belay/rap station. FA: Ian Taylor & Tony Wood, 1972 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
AU:7 | ★ The Deviant
Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Ordinary Trees
1
5
30m
2
1
10m
3
6
50m
4
4
50m
"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'. Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.
FA: Greg Pritchard & punters from Melb. Uni, 1993 | 140m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
{UIAA} 2+ | ★★★ The Grand Traverse
The traverse has commitment , exposure and dramatic views. It takes a full day. In full summer conditions, the route is a mostly long rock scramble with steep sections, however snow and ice increase the difficulty. For pitching, bring a 60m rope with a small rack and plenty of long slings. An ice axe is necessary in winter conditions. Take plenty of water, there is none en route. | 210m | The Remarkables | ||
AU:7 | ★ Handles
Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away. Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high. FA: G Brennan & Michael Wust, 1983 | 27m | Summerday Valley | ||
AU:7 | Abseil Slab
Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants. FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967 | 34m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:6 | ★ BA Mosquito
Pleasant access route to the big terrace. Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste. FA: Heather Phillips & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 45m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | Tarmac Traverse
The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain. | 10m | The Cathedral | ||
AU:7 | ★ Prince Albert
Fun but short. Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'. FA: Josef Goding, Ambia Scott & Dianne C, 2009 | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | ||
VB | ★ So-called crack
Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy. | 4m | Camels Hump | ||
II | ★★★ Alter Weg
1
II
15m
2
II
5m
Etwas rechts der Südkante hoch und über Band Traverse nach rechts zur Verschneidung. Über Verschneidung zu großer Höhle (Ring) und in ihr über Kamin zum Gipfel (linke Seite). In der Höhle nachholen. FFA: Hermann Fischer, H. Kurze, T. Lierke & A. Matthäi, 1888 | 20m, 2, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
AU:6 | ★ Glenhurst
| 11m | Summerday Valley | ||
AU:7 | ★ Lobster Legs
| 6m | Point Perpendicular | ||
VB | ★ Western face
Stand start with good edges, climb the face. | 5m | Camels Hump | ||
AU:6 | Nurlegs
Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth V-groove left of 'Crawdad' FA: B Hurley & Bill James | 10m | Mount Keira | ||
VB | ★ BDSM
Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill. Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3. | 3m | Camels Hump | ||
AU:6 | H
6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2BRs to double BB. FA: David Forbes, 2002 | 5m, 2 | Woy Woy | ||
AU:7 | ★ Heckle
The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab. FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 15m | Arapiles | ||
AU:6 | ★ Cartridge Wall
The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'. | 10m | Arapiles | ||
VB | ★ Eastern Face
Beautiful, easy face. | 7m | Camels Hump | ||
5.2 G | ★★ Easy Overhang
| 39m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
VB | ★ North-Western Arete
Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete. | 6m | Camels Hump | ||
5.2 | ★ Old Man's Route
| 98m | Seneca | ||
VB | ★★ Up In Smoke
Stand start pulling up on horizontal fault and follow the line to the top out. | 6m | The Enchanted Forest | ||
VB | ★ Easy
Sit start and climb the arete on its right side. FA: Jack Folkes, 29 Jun 2014 | 2m | Nowra | ||
AU:6 | Pandemonium
FA: 1971 | 19m | Morialta | ||
5.1 | ★★ An Easy Stroll
Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor. | 13m | Calabogie | ||
AU:7 | ★ Tourist Traverse
| 40m | Blue Mountains | ||
VB | ★ Northern Runnel
Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel. | 7m | Camels Hump | ||
AU:7 | ★ Chrisglen
| 9m | Summerday Valley | ||
VB | Spotting the kids
Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right. | 2m | Halls Gap Area | ||
5.2 | A Week With Pete
Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs. | 12m, 4 | Rumney | ||
AU:7 | ★ Hawker
Rarely done but looks ok. Start: Start 5m L of WR. FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968 | 15m | Camels Hump | ||
VB | ★ Pour les enfants
Sit start. Easy climbing straight up the arete to a top out. | 2m | Noosa National Park | ||
AU:7 | ★ Polite Chatter
Up the open corner crack at the left hand end of the wall. FA: Ivan Valenta & Jane Montgomery, 2003 | 10m | Point Perpendicular | ||
5.2 | ★ Old Ladies' Route
| 84m | Seneca | ||
AU:7 | ★ Cee Gee Also
Marked 'CGA'. Pretty standard juggy climbing up to ledge, through mini rooflet, then up face crack above. FA: Col Smithies, 1988 | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ||
AU:7 | ★★ Why Can't It Be Longer
FA: Lee Cujes, 1999 | 6m | Mt Beerwah | ||
II | ★★ Winkelriss
FA: Erich Trautmann, 1908 | 23m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
VB | ★ Hog Wash
Start at the far left side, use the good holds and ledges to top out through the corner. | 3m | Ottawa Boulders | ||
AU:6 | ★ Hugs and Kisses
Popular for beginners. Very easy, and a good first lead on natural protection. It is the widest crackline which is located 1.5m L of the arête. Belay from "SIASSB" anchor. FA: Mark Gommers, Dave Ahmelman & Andrew Rule, 1996 | 12m | Kissing Point | ||
VB | The chin | Ashgrove scenic reserve | |||
VB | ★ Round rail
Up left on rounded rail | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
AU:7 | ★ The Kennel
As you walk into the Courtyard, there is a slab on the right which leads to a narrow chimney. Inside the chimney there is an obvious curving flake. Up this to the top. FA: Roy Henderson & terry page, 1991 | 15m | Mt Alexander | ||
VB | ★ Child's Play
2m right of PLE. Sit start. More easy climbing up another prominent arete. | 2m | Noosa National Park | ||
AU:7 | Sunout
The corner R of 'Shedidit' | Morialta | |||
VB | ★ El Capito | Ashgrove scenic reserve | |||
II | ★★ Alter Weg
Von Südosten Kamin in Winkel zu Absatz. Anfangs spreizend schräge Wand und Kamin zG. FA: Rudolf Fehrmann & O. Perry-Smith, 1907 | 25m | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
AU:7 | ★ Excreta
The chimney to the R of SAS. Completely disgusting, but good if you're into that kind of sick perverted thing. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows (solo), 1968 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
AU:7 | ★ Swerv'n Mervin
Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top | 18m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | ||
AU:6 | ★ Punk's Delight
Up the crack on the arete. Start: Start at the arete R of GitP. FA: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985 | 12m | Summerday Valley | ||
VB | ★ Beginners Luck
Some fun slab surfing. Not the best landing so bring a spotter. FA: Troy McAndrew, 2 Feb 2020 | 4m | Springwood Conservation Park | ||
AU:6 | ★ Penguin
| 5m | Point Perpendicular | ||
II | ★★ Südwand
Über AW auf Block, diagonal linkshaltend über Wand zum Absatz, an der dortigen Kante Wand zum 2. Absatz und AW zum Gipfel. FA: H. Pohle & H. Börner, 1907 | 21m | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
5.2 G | ★ Easy Keyhole
Climbs an obvious wide chimney to a bit of a roof, exit on the left. FA: Hans Kraus & Bonnie Prudden, 1950 | 40m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
AU:6 | A Crack In The Pipes
An easy 5m crack for quick free solo (or trad, if falling in the water isn't your thing) access to Shit Line, Prairie Dog & Hung Like A Sewer Rat. Easier than scrambling back up, around, and down the cliff. FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014 | 5m | Canberra | ||
II | ★★ Südwestweg
| 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
5.2 | ★ Another Stroll
A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll". Top anchor. | 13m | Calabogie | ||
II | ★ Alter Weg
Von Süden oder Norden zum höchsten Punkt der Einschartung zwischen südöstlich vorgelagertem Block und Turm. Riss, Wand rechtshaltend und Rinne zG. FA: von alters her begangen | 18m | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
2+ | ★ Schlange
| 8m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
II | ★★ Alter Weg
FA: Erich Trautmann, 1907 | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
VB | Men who stare at Levi's arse
On the back of the Kite Runner boulder, 5m south of Flat Crack, climb the short, uphill face. Sit start. FA: Levidps, 2015 | 3m | Mt Alexander | ||
VB | Route 3
Stand-start. Move up on jugs. | 3m | Inner Melbourne | ||
VB | ★ Hang Slab
Stand on rock. Climb straight up though great holds. | 4m | Ottawa Boulders | ||
VB | The Far Side
Climb up L of the staghorn on the downhill side of the boulder. A nice little slab to get your confidence up if you're new to the game! | 2m | Toohey Forest | ||
2+ | ★ Vogel
| 8m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
AU:7 | ★ T-shirt
The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'T-shirt Gully' Start: From the large ledge at the base of the crack. FA: Bob McMillan & Glenn Jones, 1986 | 10m | Point Perpendicular | ||
VB | Route 2
Stand-start. | 3m | Inner Melbourne | ||
VB | ★★ Nori
Sit start using right side of crack only | 2m | Whale Blocks | ||
AU:6 | Climb Six
Start 1 m right. Wandering line of least resistance to the corner and finish up this to top out. Anchor from baluster 6 and 7. | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
2+ | ★★ Flammenplatte
anstatt abzuseilen kann auf der Ostseite über ein kurzes überhängendes Wandl abgeklettert werden, die Schwierigkeit erhöht sich somit auf 3. FA: Heinz Höllebauer, 1975 | 15m, 4 | Dürnstein | ||
VB | ★★ Up the door jam
Chimney up between the isolated rock and cliff face. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
VB | ★★ Tour du Tower
Stand start at near the decent tree, and traverse the entire boulder. About the same grade regardless of height above the ground. | 15m | Camels Hump | ||
5.1 | ★ Route D
Even further up and right, there is another crack angling slightly right as it goes up past a tree. Not often climbed. | 9m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
FB:2B | Orange Depart
| Fontainebleau | |||
VB | Jug Traverse
Start as for FO but trend diagonally left on juggy holds to finish on CP. | 3m | Noosa National Park | ||
5.2 | ★ Mr. Breeze
| 6m | San Luis Valley | ||
AU:7 | ★ Two Fern
4m right of Boots And All. There may be two ferns in a crack here. Up to small roof and over this. | 19m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
AU:6 | Tourist Route
| 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
II | ★ Alter Weg
Rechts in der Nordwestseite bei Rissspur zu Band. Geneigte Wand zG. FA: unbekannt, 1980 | 10m | Sächsische Schweiz |