Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sab 11 Mag 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
Sentinel Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★ Army of Ants | 15m, 5 | |||||
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25 | ★ Makybe Diva | 7m | |||||
Enjoyed the attempts, missed the last big move but feeling pretty good on the rest of it. Hopefully sort it out soon
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Sab 11 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac - con Harriet Harley, Samantha Jarvis | 25m | |||||
This was awesome. Took my first trad fall too. Lived to tell the tale.
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Ven 10 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Common Knowledge | 35m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
A wild journey
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Ven 10 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - con rew | 18m, 5 | |||||
Yay! Finally sent (with the crux in the sun too lol), eleven tries over four sessions. Logged some air time. A lovely climb, some microbeta adjustments required along the way to get it dialled. And the start is hard! [11]
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - con Riley Smith | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Spicy runout at the start!
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack - con Riley Smith | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Beautiful line. Spent ages trying to get a stuck blue cam out... it's still there..
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Deep Freeze | 15m | |||||
Swinging and floatin on RPs felt rad
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||||
20 Dura | ★★★ Thunder Crack - con Jason Lu | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
A good thrash. Beaut line.
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - con Jason Lu | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Classic Thursday arvo fun
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Halls Gap Area | |||||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Ceramics Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Red Bellied Black | 5m | ★ Buona | ||||
Nice line, consistent to the top. Just need commitment
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Halls Gap Area | |||||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Stoplight Boulder | |||||||
V1 Facile | ★ Problem Banana | 3m | ★ Buona | ||||
Better than it looked
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Gio 9 Mag 2024 - Halls Gap Area | |||||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Courtyard Boulders | |||||||
V1 ~V2 | ★ Crack | 5m | ★ Buona | ||||
Some good movement with a tricky start. Felt about as hard or even harder than running Commentary.
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V2 | ★ Running Commentary | 6m | Media | ||||
Fun, lots of options for hands
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V1 | ★ Cat's Meow | 6m | ★ Buona | ||||
Great warm up line, backs off at the top.
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Mer 8 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Running on Empty - con Riley Smith | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Interesting stemming to start, then nice albeit pumpy moves!
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Mer 8 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
- con
Riley Smith
1
10
27m
2
18
25m
3
19
15m
| 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Mistakes were made! Gripped by sheer terror, I inch my way through the traverse - each move painfully delicate. Getting to the slight off-width, I don't have the reach to place a cam so go with a nut and keep creeping onwards. A couple moves and then pop! I look back to see the nut dangling on more than a few metres of traverse... I'm overcome with dread, and decide to keep pressing on - COMPLETELY - missing the belay station. Riley checks in on me a while later - I'm still in full tunnel vision mode. Rope drag is horrendous, and I'm down to my last bits of gear using a sling from my PAS and biner from the chalk bag. Grovel my way through the awkward chimney, and there at last are the bolts. I sit at the bolts mentally drained, and it only dawns on me as Riley gets to the runout traverse I've left him, that I've also accidentally led both pitches!
:^/ |
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14 |
★★★ Lamplighter
- con
Riley Smith
1
10
30m
2
14
30m
3
13
18m
| 78m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Fun chimneying - and a bomber lucky purple hex!
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19 | ★★★ Judgement Day - con Jason Lu | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Jason accidentally lead the entire two last pitches all the way to the bolts. What a FIEND. Holes in his shoes, no chalk, insane rope drag, pulling off the hardest traverse I've ever done, hats off to him. He ended up using his PAS and the biners from his chalk bag to clip his last few pieces as he has literally nothing left. Midway through my second one of his nuts fell out, leaving me with a 10 meter horizontal run out through the crux of the 18, which got the heart running. Good fun!
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Mer 8 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
How good
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Jason - con Vincent | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Definitely more insecure than Golden Fleece - weird grades!
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - con Riley Smith | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Felt easier than Moby Dick :')
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick - con Riley Smith | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Felt desperate at times with varying jams and face climbing - solid for the grade!
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari - con Riley Smith | 35m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Sensational jams - not used to them being easier than the rest of the climb!
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong - con Johnny Sullivan | 25m, 1 | |||||
Got Kachoong’d as they say. Biggest whip of my life. First on trad gear. 😅
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||||
18 | ★ Four Sticks | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
A lap to get the gear onto white heat
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23 | ★★★ Milk Blood — 2 tentativi | 10m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Got to the crux on the first burn, and figured out the top crux to dog out to the top. Second run was better. Great climbing with Henning.
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22 ~23 | ★★ White Heat — 4 tentativi | 20m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
One fell on all four attempts. Have to watch the left foot exiting the crux.
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight — 4 tentativi - con Michelle C | 18m, 5 | |||||
Surprised myself with this one. Didn't think I had the endurance to string it all together but not really trying to rest until reaching the 5th bolt seemed to be a good strategy + the encouragement and support from Michelle helped loads too.
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Mar 7 Mag 2024 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ American Dream | 5m | |||||
heel hook
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac - con SwagAustralia | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
The last of guide climbs, suggested by Simon Menz himself! Coaching definitely a highlight!
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
9 | ★ Hope - con SwagAustralia | 16m | |||||
Manu hoisted me up :^)
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5 | ★ Sincerity - con Pascoe Dunphy | 14m | Media | ||||
Absolute corker.
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9 ~10 | ★ Hope - con Jason Lu | 16m | |||||
Led that for SPG course. A little sandbag imo but we are in Arapiles
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - con Riley Smith | 18m, 2 | |||||
Made a couple links - seems doable, maybe?
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin - con Johnny Sullivan | 35m | |||||
So stoked I got this one. Hardest trad lead to date. Felt so good! Kachoong next? 😁
|
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | |||||||
6 | ★ Cartridge Chimney | 10m | |||||
Hardest lead to date
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
7 | ★ Charity - con Alex Holroyd | 14m | Media | ||||
Alex had to sit...
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Swing Wing | 5m | |||||
Ha! Now that's a tough v4
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ 11 - con Jason Lu | ||||||
Wtf... Pulling on is bloody tough.
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V6 | ★★ 9 - con Jason Lu | 3m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Fun moves. Dropped the top once...
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Trackside/Hammer Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Sledgy - con Riley Smith | 5m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Good fun! Commiting.
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos The French Crack Area | |||||||
13 | The Daunting Slither | 8m | Media | ||||
Down climb from French crack.
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17 ~18 | ★★ French Crack | 11m | ★ Buona | ||||
Finally got it clean…even if it was on second, gnarly little number.
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
First time back up this classic since injury. Absolute delight.
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower | |||||||
23 | ★★ By Jovi - con James Vinnicombe | 14m, 4 | |||||
23????
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge - con oliver hayward | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
w/ laura and a worried ollie
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | |||||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase - con oliver hayward | 100m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
simul climbed with ollie to retrieve our ropes
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||||
9 | ★ Keyboard | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
access to tannin, mega lead by laura on tannin extending well into headtorch hours
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||||
14 | ★★ Mantle | 90m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
still not sure where the second pitch is supposed to go off the belay
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12 | ★★ Panzer | 95m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
the second pitch gets harder the better you are at crack climbing
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Lun 6 Mag 2024 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower | |||||||
22 | ★ Midnight Soiled — 4 tentativi - con Dan Bodd | 14m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Happy with this. Really learnt the value of rehearsing every single foot and hand position right before attempting. First few goes I got really pumped, did this rehearsal with Dan right before we had to leave and sent with almost no pump. Climbing really is way more mental than physical sometimes.
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19 | ★★ In Halen - con Dan Bodd | 13m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Love it. Gym climbers dream. Obvious holds, nice and flowy. Very slightly pumpy. Great warmup.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | |||||||
3 | ★ Trooper - con Ramon, Alex Holroyd, SwagAustralia | 10m | |||||
Helmet check, harness check, knot check, difficult beginners check :')
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||||||
Taipan Wall - North | |||||||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1 | 25m | |||||
Great new bolts all the way. This is now very safe and accessible for a Taipan route. The crux jump is harder than the mirage dyno.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - con Jack Leerson, Alex Holroyd, Jason Lu, Pascoe Dunphy, Manu | 18m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Linked in 2 overlapping sections. Needs more training before it goes.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Van Diemen's Land | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Body Count - con James Vinnicombe | 25m, 7 | |||||
Got all the moves. Definitely hard, need to learn to knee bar
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24 | ★★★ Body Count - con Dan Bodd | 25m, 7 | |||||
Such is life
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Philosopher | 18m | |||||
TRash
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
The Guardhouse | |||||||
23 | ★★ Line Of Sight — 2 tentativi | 15m, 5 | |||||
Tried twice but fell from crux both tries.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | |||||||
10 | ★ Clytemnaestra Buttress | 45m | |||||
Scary but stunning roof
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
The Guardhouse | |||||||
24 | ★★ Ranger Danger - con Paul Kinnane | 13m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Oh, I was so close to on sighting it... Came off on the last hard move :-( Anyway, It went second go. Really cool start, then easy to a rest, where you can get enough power back for the last sequence.
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24 | ★★ Ranger Danger - con Joanna Lazniewska | 13m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Hard start and finish, with a good rest in the middle.
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23 Dura | ★★ Little George - con Joanna Lazniewska | 14m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Interesting moves on fantastic rock. Over too early.
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23 | ★★ Little George - con Paul Kinnane | 14m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Great climbing with some hard bits. Got it second go (first run was a warm up :-P).
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23 | ★★ Miss Communication - con Joanna Lazniewska | 10m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Great moves on the steep section of the wall. Blew the on-sight by not seeing the good hold before the finish jug.
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23 | ★★ Miss Communication - con Paul Kinnane | 10m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
I enjoyed it a lot, really cool moves; I would give it more stars if it was longer. Pretty happy with a flash.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Cleaning up some old pink points
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Hot Zone - con Robert Varno | 22m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Tried this for the first time a year ago. Great to finally get the send!
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Golden Streak | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
World's hardest V2 is still V2.
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V3/4 | ★★ Three Moves to Glory | 3m | |||||
Repeat for Henry Barber vibes.
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V1 | ★★ Hideous Mantle | 4m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Repeat for gags, knees and elbows are the beta.
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V4 | ★★ Bowyang | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
What a crux, wtf.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Had some essential gear beta which made the start feel fine. After that, what a lovely quest through some varied terrain and bomber gear! One of the best.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Way less sustained than Entertainer, but the moves on this are way better! Super super fun.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
19 Dura | ★★ Electra | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
After bailing off this 3 seperate times on pervious trip(s), it felt unreal to get back here and wander up this with relative ease this time around. What a king line! Two #5s and a #6 plus a standard rack below those sizes make this feel pretty reasonable for a giant 40m pitch.
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20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Perhaps my proudest Arapiles onsight.
What a journey. |
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Yee-haw
Happy to finally put this one down. Went in an enjoyably flowy fashion in the end. |
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26 | ★★ The Fortress — 3 tentativi | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Dawggin, reacquaintin'.
|
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Crooked Mile - con Meredith Apple, Emil | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Fun!
|
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20 | ★★★ New Image - con Meredith Apple, Emil | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Repeat, still perhaps my fave pitch at the grade anywhere.
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22 Dura | ★★ Continuum - con Meredith Apple, Emil | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
PP Flash, the moves on this are fairly spooky and committing. Pretty happy to sport climb this one hahah.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
12 | ★★ Dunes - con Meredith Apple, Emil | 100m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Linked the first 3 pitches into a big one to save some time then megadeath took us to the summit.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
This was definitely the most difficult gear placing and heady climb I’ve done in a long time. My forearms were fine, but my mind was completely pumped.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||||
14 | ★ Gecko | 48m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Good fun wander.
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21 R | ★★★ Auto Da Fe | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Not as R-rated as Gollum in my opinion but definitely a touch harder and absolutely a few stars better. This is all time.
Did the last two pitches in one turbo rope-stretcher pitch which isn't very draggy if you don't place any gear on the easy headwall. I reckon I'll be doing this one again and again. |
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20 R | ★★ Gollum | 60m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Very enjoyable if you're into this sort of thing and probably pretty harrowing if you're not....
As someone who IS into this, I found it pretty red-hot. |
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | |||||||
22 R | ★★ Hard Nipples | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Fantastic. Rapped it to inspect the gear and some of the moves then redpointed it on the first try from the ground. What a wild set of moves.
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18 | ★★ Claw | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Repeat to take the gang to crack school.
Highlights include watching a grade 30 sport climber dragging his hands through the crux while exclaiming that "it doesn't go". |
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Pibroch | 20m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Pretty fun time-killer while Tommy ran back to camp for a poo.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Milk Blood | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Had a bit of gear and move beta from Meredith Apple which made the rack a little less heavy.
What a route, so much climbing, so many crack techniques required. 10/10. If you like cracks, do this route. The gear is better than bolts. |
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22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Had some premium 0.75 beta which made the headwall less bum-tightening.
What a standout route. All the stars. |
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23 | ★★ Snow Blind | 15m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
A burly layback flake guarded by some minger face climbing at the start.
Went ground up without stick clipping. A #2 goes real nice in the slot before the bolt. |
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18 | ★ Four Sticks | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Another not bad warmup.
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18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Fairly good little warmup. Cool oozy moves up high.
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22 | ★★ White Heat | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Fantastic pumpy jamming.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Awesome! So much fun.
|
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
I Forget Walls Main Cliff - South | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★★ The Forgotten Child | 13m, 6 | ★ Buona | ||||
Committing! Felt hard and run out, might have missed a crucial hold, but had a heavy whip from a couple meters above the 4th bolt.
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Dom 5 Mag 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||||
18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
A second lap to feel it on top rope; different experience for sure.
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18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
First onsight at the grade since injury. Happy with it, but sketchy moving onto the flakes at the top over ledge.
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Still a fun day out