Ascensioni in West come Retreat

Not a chance to get through the thin crux.

Not a chance to get into clipping position for bolt three.

Rough boulder at the start. No idea how this is a 5c, but I figured it is not the best route to start with...

Not a chance to get to the fourth bolt.

Too much wind. We hike the evening and made a bivouac at the hut. Early bird first walk through snow until the bottom. We went right from the root free to skip the 2 first pitches. Spaced split so no plaisir but normal for alpine route. The third pitch was nice and I expect that the rest of the route is really enjoyable. Do not underestimate the way down if there is snow.

Zu kalt heute. Aber zumindest trocken trotz Schmelzwasser.

Even this part of the wall can get wet, after all. Did the moves up to to the third draw, the route was wet starting from just before the fourth draw. Since the part from the third to the fourth draw also seems to be quite hard, judging from how others climbed it, I decided to stop trying there.

Too weak today and too scared to clip the fourth quick draw 🌶️

To get to the third bolt is definetly harder than 6c!

Die Löcher sind mit Moos bewachsen und total rutschig... 5. Grad ist das aucj definitiv nicht!

Viel Schutt, Haken Schwer zu finden, eher links halten, das Topo passt nicht, schlecht abzusichern. Sind vor dem schweren Teil umgekeht.

Again amazing rock and amazing limestone-atypical diagonal cracks in the upper part. Felt very hard though.

A bit to slow.

Thunder and rain approaching

Climbed first 4 pitches and rapelled from fifth after fall. Rock was wet there. Anyway - beautiful route.

Brüchig!

Wanted to climb it, but it was getting too dark. Apparently not as amazing as the guide book would have you believe. Chossy in parts. The whole sector would benefit from more people climbing.

The first several metres are totally covered in ivy

Rückzug wegen schlechtem Wetter....

Kopfüber die Platte runtergeschrammelt - Da haben die Nerven nicht mehr zum Durchstieg gereicht

Nur die erste Seillänge geklettert. 6b+ Aber schwer für den Grad zwei schwere Stellen nacheinander von der 3ten Exe an.

Sehr schwere Boulder-Einzelstelle. Beta für Boulderstelle: An Seitgriffen sehr hoch treten links auf sehr kleinen Tritt an Schuppe (mehr auf Reibung). hochschnappen an sehr kleine Leiste Dann rechts sehr hochtreten und rechts eindrehen, hochschnappen an Aufleger. Dann gefallen vor nächster Exe

Nach den SSL keinerlei Motivation mehr clean & sketchy weiter zu machen.

Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.