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Epic day out in an absurd position with Yosemite falls putting on a show with peak flow of the year after all the snow melt.
Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing.
Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish.
Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked.
Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4.
Via a fair bit of aqua id say with the precip this part of the world has had this year. Views of both springbrook falls and half dombrogargon while we traversed the very exposed 3rd class and found the start of the choss corner. The falls were kind of visible around the arete but loud enough to disguise a couple fighter jets that flew overhead at one point. 4 pitches of chimneying and moderately scaryface run outs. The scariest bit definitely the '5.7' hanging flakecrux where you plug the flake with cams, then hang off it and pounce to a sloper. If the flake comes off, the next piece of pro is an 'antique bolt' as its called in the guide and actually looks more like a door knocker on an english cottage. We got a nice rainbow below us at one point. Top out similar to ozymandias, climbing over the tourist lookout and getting asked by all the 'narps' (non athletic real people) if we were abseiling. A climb that shares the podium with queensland heavyweights clemency and trojan for the best shithouse rockclimbs in the world.
"What a beautifulcrack... wanna aid climb it?" 6hrs of 'Oh shit' and 'I don't trust this' later and we'd climbed the first pitch (broken into 3 pitches so everyone got a lead). Carrying enough cams, nuts, offsets and hexes to knockout a bison, a new motto was born for future climbs, "Have you got enough gear to climb El Cap?"
After a really cool day of bouldering, we figured there was still some room for trad left, so we headed to Swan Slab to try this good-looking line. A wide-ish laybacky crack leads to a delicate traverse into the same tree anchor of my first trad lead. Pretty enjoyable
Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing.
Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish.
Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked.
Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4.