Routes by Mark Colyvan

Start: The line right of Foolscap. A crack through a small roof with a thin crack corner above. Paul put a Friend in a vertical, near parallel groove-gave it a tug to test it...the Friend slid straight out, much to his horror. He later returned with Hexes.

1. 25m. (crux) Up slab to base of roof, around roof and delicately up corner, moving slightly right in thinnest section, to belay ledge.
2. 40m. As for pitch 2 of Foolscap.
3. Either walk off leftwards or continue as for Foolscap.

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One FH is the only protection, although first bolt of CKSB could be used with double ropes?

Up wall to FH, then right and up to top, can use anchors on CKSB.

An overhanging black corner crack. Up the corner to top. Belay chains.

Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park.

Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top.

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the FH, then move up (crux) to the next FH. Mantle over the bulge to lower offs, optional grassy top out.

Start: At a slab at the base of the crack.

Up slab to overlap, (crux) then up crack to top.

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement.

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux.

From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out.

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles.

Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out.

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade.

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute

4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

The juggy wall. A pleasant easy climb. Up wall, trending left to start, then back right to finish. DBB shared with JOTF

Start: at the right-hand end of the Sundeck, just left of the large chimney / gully. Take five brackets and a range of wires.

Wires to the first BR and between first and second bolt, then bolts to top. Bridging and wall climbing with a chimney to finish off. 2 bolt belay next to tree.

A more direct finish to the original route. The chimney left of No Frills.

From the top of Geronimo pitch 3. go directly up the off-width squeeze chimney, to some mank, then up crack on right to bulge. Through bulge and on to top.

Start: In the descent gully aprox. 10m right of Geronimo and directly below the tree and ledge where the original route starts. Abseil or walk in.

Up the short poorly protected wall, going slightly leftwards then back right to the ledge and tree. Up as for original route.

Start: About 4m left of ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Up slab going slightly leftwards down low and then back right up higher to steeper ground. Up steep wall then straight up above over easier ground to chain belay of ‘The Perfect Crime’. 5 bolts on route.

Abseil off or continue up ‘The Perfect Crime’.

“The last laugh should last forever”.

Start: The steep slab about 5m down right from ‘Moral Decline’. Marked and with a bolt anchor at the start.

Up the slab past 4 bolt runners to chains on the ledge.

Start: The obvious offwidth splitting the east face of the boulder. Up jam crack to ledge, step left into offwidth and struggle upwards. (The only protection is stacked tubes and hexes!).

A classic.

Start: Opposite ‘Billericay Dickie’ on the left side of the gully (as you walk down) are some slabs facing out into the gorge. Start at the base of the obvious crack on the left side of the slab. Originally 20 M1 with a couple of points of aid, this was progressively whittled away by Stephens, then Bayne then eventually freed’ by M. Colyvan and E. Sharp I8/6/H

Up crack to where it thins down and goes diagonally rightwards, follow crack into gully and rap off chains atop of 'That’s Entertainment'. Al Stephens

A classic.

Start: Opposite ‘Billericay Dickie’ on the left side of the gully (as you walk down) are some slabs facing out into the gorge. Start at the base of the obvious crack on the left side of the slab. Originally 20 M1 with a couple of points of aid, this was progressively whittled away by Stephens, then Bayne then eventually freed’ by M. Colyvan and E. Sharp I8/6/H

Up crack to where it thins down and goes diagonally rightwards, follow crack into gully and rap off chains atop of 'That’s Entertainment'. Al Stephens

Interesting and well protected climbing up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall. start: About 3m right of ‘Bang Bang’.

Up onto large blocks to clip the first bolt, then step right onto the slab, up and past another bolt to the crack of ‘Bang Bang’. Cross this and head straight up the wall past 2 more bolts to the top. Belay/rap chains in place.

Originally had two points of aid, the first being the second bolt. The aid was almost eliminated by Paul Bayne and was eventually freed by Giles Bradbury May 1983. It is now one of New England’s it most popular hard free routes.

Start: Sm right of ‘Bang Bang’ at rightward trending groove.

Follow groove right, then back left past bolt runner into corner, up to second bolt and on to ledge and belay/rap chain. Note that both bolts are usually clipped with wires first these days.

Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully.

Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête.

3m left of Working Class Heroes up vertical crack and through shrubbery. Then continue up tiny tips crack. 1982 is complete guess for FA

A real grunt!

Start: The chimney to the right of ’Working Class Heroes’.

Scramble up gully to above tree and good ledge. Follow crack up left wall of chimney

Start: As for ‘Prehistoric Sounds’ to ledge above tree. Follow the off-width crack on the right up through a bulge and then more easily on to top.

A rather attractive wall. Double ropes useful.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.

Up slab to ledge then straight up wail above past bolt, then head diagonally right over easier ground, then up to a second bolt up and slightly left past two more bolts then run it out a little straight up the slab above. Easily up exit crack.

A hard bouldery short route.

Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney.

Up slab past two bolts

A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing.

Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'.

Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor.

Start; The left hand crack on the little orange buttress down hill from ‘Billericay Dickie’.

Up crack, through roof to top

A waste of a good bolt. Start: Around left from ‘Pagan Paradise’ below a vague line a small roof.

Up through some crumbly yellow stuff to a bolt runner, through the small roof and up the wall above.

Hardly worth the effort.

Start: Left of ‘Pagan Paradise’ and about 2m right of 'I'm Laughin’

Up thin crack to ledge, clip bolt runner then a hard move out left to the arête. Continue up arête past another bolt runner to top.

Start: At the bottom of the V-chimney below the obvious roof about Om right of Dogmatic Demise’ on the extreme right hand end of the flight deck.

Up V-chimney, step left under roof, then follow crack through roof to top.

Technical and sustained second pitch.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Charisma’

1. 12m Up slab trending right into corner crack and up to tree on large ledge.

2. 20m (crux) Up obvious intermittent cracks and into wide crack to top.

Start: Below crack with a large tree growing in it.

Up crack until it expires then step right onto ledge, up short slab to roof then step right again to another ledge. Up corner crack to finish.

A superb route originally done with a couple of points of aid below the roof, these were freed by M. Colyvan and P. Payne 2/8/81

Probably best done with the direct start.

Start: Just right of the abseil down, below a crack just left of the obvious corner.

Another variant: Step right below the roof and up to top.

Start: The same direct start as ‘Staggerlee’ added by the Killips.

Up offwidth chimney to ledge then straight up offwidth to crack going straight up to top.

A fall from the slab could be serious.

Start: 2m left of ‘La Cucaracha’ at a tree.

Up the first short slab heading slightly left to the ledge, then straight up the slab past a bolt runner to an overlap. Move left here and then pull up onto wall and continue up past 2 bolts to top.

Start: About half way between ‘Agrippina’ and ‘Brut’.

Straight up wall which steepens at the top past four bolts, moving off left or’ the slab at the top.

Classic thin face climbing.

Start: About two metres left of ‘Ambrosia’.

Clip fixed wire with a stick then over bouldery start to the finger crack. Up this to a bolt then continue up wall past another bolt to a third bolt. Move left and up to a fourth bolt, then left and up again to chain on top.

An excellent flake crack on pitch two

Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’,

1. 27m As for pitch one of ‘Grave Reservations’.

2. 37m (crux) Follow crack right for a few moves then up the thin crack leading up to a roof. Go right around roof and follow the flake crack up rightward to another roof. Move up around roof then more easily to top.

One-point of aid near the top of P1 eliminated by Colyvan & Bayne 25/7/81.

Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’.

1. 25m (crux) Up chimney as for 'Biggus Grippus' then follow thin crack line on the left to ledge.

2. 25m Up ramp on right and careful climbing over large loose block into fine corner crack. Finish as for ‘Biggus Grippus’.

Unfortunately the first pitch is the only worthwhile bit of climbing on this route. Perhaps if a rap station was put in after the first pitch it might get more ascents.

Start: About 5m right of ‘Female Frenzy’ is a short rightward diagonal finger crack.

1. 17m (crux) Up diagonal, then continue up through some manic to a ledge.

2. upwards going rightwards where possible to avoid the mank. It finishes on a treed terrace on the right.

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4. "

Start: As for ‘Overkill’

1. 20m As for Overkill’

2. 20m (crux) From belay head out diagonally left onto wall (no protection) and up to horizontal crack, lip past bolt runner to top.

Another classic from the same team that gave you ‘Prehistoric Sounds’.

Start: At the extreme right hand end of the terrace that ‘Biggus Grippus’ finishes on.

1. 20m Traverse right and up to a good stance below roof. Move up diagonally right past bolt runner to roof then around right to ledge. Bolt and nut anchor.

2. 30m (crux) Follow flake crack to top.

Start: Start in the base of a chimney near the head of the gully.

Follow the crack up the left wall of the chimney.

Start: 1m. left of G.F.

Alternate Start. Just looking al this line will give you nightmares for weeks. An off-width! Bob Kiliip was sick for some time after seconding this... and he was an off-width expert!

Up off-width chimney to top.

Start: Below the obvious 7m, roof, a layback crack leads up right. Without doubt, the hardest roof in New England, on sharp, clean granite. The whole party yo-yoed the crux pitch during its first ascent. Strenuous and sustained.

1. 20m. Up layback crack, then traverse left and up, then back right and up lo belay on block immediately below roof.

2. 25m. (Crux) Up off-width crack to roof, then follow the crack out and around the roof. Belay just above the lip to avoid rope drag.

3. 10m. Up open corner trending left, to tree on top.

Start: Below the obvious 7m, roof, a layback crack leads up right. Without doubt, the hardest roof in New England, on sharp, clean granite. The whole party yo-yoed the crux pitch during its first ascent. Strenuous and sustained.

1. 20m. Up layback crack, then traverse left and up, then back right and up lo belay on block immediately below roof.

2. 25m. (Crux) Up off-width crack to roof, then follow the crack out and around the roof. Belay just above the lip to avoid rope drag.

3. 10m. Up open corner trending left, to tree on top.

Start: "... but my eyes can see.."

The two bolts on the wall are hard to see until you get very close to them. An excellent route with a touch of boldness. 1m right of Elite Style/Unholy Trinity, a crack leading to a water streak.

1. 20m Up crack to ledge. Belay.

2. 30m Continue up sleep crack above to ledge. Then up slabby wall to the left of the water streak, trending leftwards past two B.R.s to scoop. Carefully up scoop to belay. (Cracks or tree).

An off-width test-piece. Do this one and you'll be famous. You won't have to do any others. A real epic.

Start: The clean off-width some meters to the left of Punk Rock.

35m Up to and over the overhanging start, then into off-width. Struggle gleefully on upwards.

An off-width test-piece. Do this one and you'll be famous. You won't have to do any others. A real epic.

Start: The clean off-width some meters to the left of Punk Rock.

35m Up to and over the overhanging start, then into off-width. Struggle gleefully on upwards.

Start: As for T.M.P. Excerpts.

25m Up the knuckle crack on the right wall of 'TMP Excerpts' corner, step right: and continue to top.

An lan Dury classic. Excellent and exciting climbing. Animal loved it so much that he celebrated the ascent by throwing his boots off the top, declaring he would never climb again.

Start: The crack 1m right of Locomosquito leading to an overhanging finger crack.

25m Up crack to sloping ledge left of overhanging crack. Very committing moves into overhanging crack, followed by sustained layaways to top.

A great climb with excellent positions. You've just got to do this one. Love it, love it, love it.

Start: The crack about one meter right of D.O.T.S.

42m Up crack/corner, then continue right around overlap into curving crack. Follow this crack right, till it joins the last pitch of Demon Dropout via an awkward move. Some parties belay here. Finish up the last bit of Demon Dropout (obvious crack through bulge/roof).

Gentle start, but gets nice and pumpy towards the top.

Start: Rightward trending corner crack immediately right of 'Evil Angels'

Diagonally right, taking care of rock and protection, to base of vertical crack. Up crack, step right and on to top ( crux).

Note: On the first ascent Brian climbed from a rest directly up the vertical crack, involving a sequence of moves about grade 22/23. The first free ascent stepped right beneath the short headwall and up to top. First free ascent of the complete route with direct finish by Carol Lee 22/08/15.

A chance find.

Start: As for A.O.S.

1. 25m Up crack and wall of A.O.S. (5m), then traverse left to the diagonal crack. Continue up crack and flake to a tree on a large ledge.

2. 25m As for pitch 3 of S.F & F.I.

A bouldery direct start to Sunday Morning Energy.

Start: Directly up from where climb is marked, then awkardly onto ledge, up a tricky corner followd by superb climbing to top.

Start: 30m right and uphill of 'Social Misfit'.

The left of two cracks. Up to tree belay.

On a lower terrace right of the main block.

Start: The thin crack corner.

Up crack to top.

Start: On the lower rock terrace below 'Switchblade'. Abseil over or scramble up from 'Saracen'. At the extreme left-hand end of the rock face, left of two overhanging cracks that can be seen high up on your right.

Up wall and curving crack to horizontal, then up sharp crack to top.

Start: On the left side of the descent gully. Obvious fist crack.

Up crack to horizontal break, left, then up crack to top.

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.

Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

Unknown details, mentioned in 'Screamer' mag issue 9, 1981

Some people will do anything to see their name in print!

Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up twin cracks and mank.

Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to.

Up wall to crack and on to top.

Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top.

Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up crack to stance and on to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up wall to crack then to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.

Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top

Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.

A bit silly.

Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 10m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.

Up thin crack to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces

Up wide crack to top.

Start: 3m right of ‘Viridiana’.

Bridge up twin cracks to top.

Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway.

Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.

Start:The first real line you come to at the end of the descent path through the 'jungle'. The scimitar shaped crack. Up onto the top of the trunkated column, fight the blackberry and up leftward-leaning curved crack to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’.

Up fist/offwidth crack to a horizontal break a few metres from the top. An 'interesting' couple of moves right lead into the crack of Aeroplane Jelly. Finish up the last few moves of Aeroplane Jelly.