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The Amphitheatre

Rock: Large Rock Fall - The Amphitheatre

A large rock fall has occurred behind the Pegasus pinnacle in The Amphitheatre. The rock fall originated from the right side of the gully, and there are now large unsettled boulders from the base of Pegasus to Chad.

There is some damage to the arete of Pegasus.

Take care when walking through the debris field and climbing up the gully, as many loose blocks remain.

See warning details and discuss

Created 9 months ago
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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1997

Start at the bottom beside Angel of Calcutta. A nice (hard) boulder problem starts after the second bolt and finishes at the fourth. Easy climbing to the top.

FA: Paul Renwick & Christian Gamst, 5 Jan 2021

Begin in the crack to the right (as for Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.

FA: Grant Davidson & John Dawson, 1984

Warning Rock: loose chockstone

Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top. DBC.

FA: Rick McGregor & Geoff Mead, 1975

The second arête from the Arch. Climb past the first bolt to the ledge on the right then straight up. DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1996

Follow the crack feature up the face. At 4th bolt, veer slightly right on thin holds (crux), before powering through the final moves to the anchor. Stay on the face for full value.

FA: Chris Lacoste, 9 Jun 2020

Set: Thibaut, 9 Jun 2020

FFA: Chris Hailey & Tom Baanders, 12 Jul 2020

The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Kaaren Cordukes, 1996

Start as for the first 3 bolts of C.J.D Arete, then head left up the small seam and shallow pockets.

Bolts for the upper face could be added for those with basophobia.

FA: Aidan Sarginson, 7 Oct 2023

The fist crack right of "C.J.D Arete", climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Geoff Shekell, 1974

A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M."

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on "J.E.M." helps with otherwise lean protection.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

The last arête before the gulley. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt and gain the ledge, clipping the third. Straight up to the pohutakawa belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1996

Start as per 'J.E.M' then veer slightly right after the 2nd bolt. Technical climbing straight up the face leads to a tricky finish.

Set: Shaun Brown, Nov 2020

FA: Shaun Brown, 27 Nov 2020

Start as for "J.E.M.", and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and get established in the crack. At the top of the crack there is a crack that leads diagonally up to the right to the anchors of "Fight or Slight". While airy it is easily protected to get up to use these anchors to abseil off.

Originally either used a tree tree belay or exited to the left to the anchors of J.E.M. which created drag with an up and over redirect.

FA: Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley & John Watson, 1972

Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab.

Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.

FA: Christian Gamst, 2 Feb 2019

Climb the large crack with large chock stone to the right of "Fight or Slight", follow the line of weakness to the large offwidth on the right. Get into the crack, you'll need a #6 or big bro to protect the large offwidth and watch for loose chock stones. Shortly after the chockstones in the off width crack exit on the left side of the crack to the platform by the anchors of Fight or Slight.

FA: Andy Baird & Eric Horn, 28 Mar 2021

Set: Andy Baird & Eric Horn, 28 Apr 2021

Short bouldery line which climbs directly up the left hand side face of Pegasus.

FA: DanielScott, 23 Jan 2020

Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley. Slopey holds, and some fantastic moves.

FA: Christian Gamst & Mario Hernandez, 5 Jan 2019

Climb the short offwidth to the right of the gully, then head right, up the hanging corner to gain a large ledge. Beware of loose rock. Continue up the offwidth with a chockstone above, finish to the right of the arete. There are rap chains behind the large blocks.

FA: Rick McGregor & Cado Avenali, 1974

Climbs the crack then straight up through the steep buldge. No anchors yet. Either traverse over to Polly, International Terrorist's anchor just down and right after the ledge or continue up the Line of Fearless Freddie to it’s anchor.

FA: Marco Lefebvre, 18 Jan 2019

Climb the face right of the crack. Crack is out. A bit contrived, but fun.

FA: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Feb 2019

Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Ken Harcombe, 1999

Warning Fixed Gear: No anchor

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Neil Withers, 2000

Wondered how no-one had climbed this beautiful looking crack up to the obvious anchors. Discovered when I needed my 8, then my 6, then bumped my 8 up higher. Crux is getting up and over the chock stone, had a good attempt at lifting and moving it on the descent, no movement. Would be a 16 without the crux, so if the chock stone goes may be easier.

FA: Andy Baird, Rick Chen & Natalie Bunkieyarge, 17 Feb

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

FA: Mark Bodt & Marcus Thomas, 1991

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 2000

The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.

FA: Gordon Mather & John Watson, 1972

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Wed 26 Apr
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