Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 24th Jul 2020 - 清远英西 YingXi | ||||||
观音谷 观音山 Guanyin Peak 背面 Back | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Hard Way To The Top 难到顶 - with lollypop | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
考验脚法平衡。下半部分是典型的石灰岩俯角"指压板", 上半部分还比较有意思。 线路如其名,难点在最后。
|
||||||
5.10a | ★ Funny For You 乐趣 (Funny For You) - with lollypop | 12m, 7 | Average | |||
有点脏,上面是侧拉。
|
||||||
5.10d | ★ 海底世界 The Underwater World - with lollypop | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
沿钟乳而上,难点在最后的扇形钟乳。
|
||||||
Sun 19th Jul 2020 - 登封 | ||||||
老张沟一线天 A | ||||||
5.12c | ★★ 喝酒必分 | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 18th Jul 2020 - 登封 | ||||||
老张沟一线天 A | ||||||
5.11c | ★ 54度宝丰酒 - with lollypop | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
找到点后可以爬的很顺畅,难度均匀,slopper,侧拉,好线
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ 最后冲刺 | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
难点在最后,冲刺!
|
||||||
Sun 12th Jul 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
团结街道 小墨雨洞 Xiao Mo Yu Cave | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Big Beginner | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#repeat
给挂线
|
||||||
Sat 11th Jul 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
大岩头 The Gash | ||||||
5.11b 5.11a | ★★★ Cracker | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
沿裂缝直上,有夹角、仰角、侧拉、涨手、stem等等传统技巧。最后的仰角差点力竭,拼了一把才on。估计11b/c。应该可以传统攀登。
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ 黑美人 | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
一路大点,动作丰富,热身好线!
|
||||||
5.10c 5.10b | ★ 天降差评 | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
下半段爬钟乳。到了钟乳顶后是难点,sloper小动态拍扣扣,并手小动态拍平台,觉得是个V3的动作。对10b来说比较硬,臂展不够的人会更难些,我自己纠结了挺久。
|
||||||
Sat 27th Jun 2020 - 张家界槟榔谷 | ||||||
东岸 洞外左区 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 义哥的排骨 | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
起步有些意思,仰角。
|
||||||
Fri 26th Jun 2020 - 张家界槟榔谷 | ||||||
东岸 洞外左区 | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ PM 10 Plus - with lollypop | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
确实是plus,比右边那条难些。大仰角基本都可以侧身上,难点在出最后一个屋檐,从右边侧拉,上高脚。 #2go
|
||||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★ 横竖要上 - with lollypop | 8 | ★ Good | |||
起步掉了好几把,不简单。中间还有一步大发力。觉得比10c要难。
|
||||||
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - 张家界槟榔谷 | ||||||
东岸 洞外左区 | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ PM 10 - with lollypop | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c ~5.10d | Gear on ★ 飞鸟 - with lollypop | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
略硬,难点在屋檐侧拉,差点掉。 #hard
|
||||||
Sun 21st Jun 2020 - 万仙山 Wanxian Mountains | ||||||
黑龙潭 R区 | ||||||
5.10c | ★ 其实,我是一个演员 | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
微仰角大点,不错
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ R6 (F4) - with 青炎 | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
夹缝中求生存,倒数第二挂片是难点。
|
||||||
5.10b 5.10a | ★★ R11 | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
喇叭口烟囱,裂缝,砂岩slab,多种风格,好玩。不太会传统攀技巧,觉得比较累,不止10a
|
||||||
Sat 20th Jun 2020 - 万仙山 Wanxian Mountains | ||||||
通天河 Tong Tian He N区 | ||||||
5.13a | ★★ 冥王星 - with lollypop | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 20th Jun 2020 - 万仙山 Wanxian Mountains | ||||||
通天河 Tong Tian He M区 | ||||||
5.10d 5.10 | ★★ M15 | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3D线路,有意思。难的在上半部分的face攀爬
|
||||||
Fri 19th Jun 2020 - 万仙山 Wanxian Mountains | ||||||
通天河 Tong Tian He N区 | ||||||
5.11b | ★ 抬头见喜 | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
整体和难点偏扣扣 crimp风格。不难,难点能退回来休息。
|
||||||
Sun 7th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
镇江南山 C | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ 闪电 Flash - with 五九 | 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#6go
考验先锋心态和执行细节的slab平衡线,一直在不同的地方犯错。爬过把数最多11
|
||||||
Sun 7th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
镇江南山 D | ||||||
V3 | ★ V3 | ★ Good | ||||
V2 | ★ V2 | Average | ||||
Sun 7th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
镇江南山 B | ||||||
5.10b | ★ 成长之路 Growth Path | 20m, 11 | Average | |||
上半段比较脏,感觉一般
|
||||||
Sat 6th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
镇江南山 C | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 谁爬谁知道 - with lollypop | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 24th May 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Honey Hole - with lollypop | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
没有太抠的点,中间难点有个隐蔽的反提,用上了不用往右走,能简单。
|
||||||
Sat 23rd May 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Jesus Line - with lollypop | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
一年爬一把,终于第三年红了。今年摩擦力好多了。 #3go
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ Angry Baboon | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
一年爬一把,终于第三年红掉了。第5挂片是难点。 #3go
|
||||||
Mon 4th May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Swallow Cave 燕子洞 Shady Grove 林荫墙 | ||||||
6b 5.10d | ★ NarcissisticTendencies (new route 2) - with lollypop | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
利用左右的裂缝大点向上。 正面直上会更难些。
|
||||||
6b 5.10c | ★★ 愤怒的天空 Angry Skies (Angry Skies) - with lollypop | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
比较少见的风格,有趣。沿小凹槽一路向上。
|
||||||
Sun 3rd May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
抚仙湖 海口玉皇阁 | ||||||
5.10c 5.10c/d | Better days 少年的你 - with 青炎 | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
沿细裂缝上,最后sloper挂顶。石头很碎,小心
|
||||||
Sat 2nd May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
团结街道 小墨雨洞 Xiao Mo Yu Cave | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 4 Days XP | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 1st May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Western Hill 西山 猫头鹰岩 Low Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ 周四翘班 Thursday for you | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
耐力风格长线,大点不无聊,不少侧拉的点,动作花样不少,适合热身
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ 迁移 Migration | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ 喜羊羊 Happy goat | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
沿裂缝上,有点小仰角,大点。热身好线
|
||||||
Thu 30th Apr 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
团结街道 小墨雨洞 Xiao Mo Yu Cave | ||||||
5.11a | ★ One Time | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
难点从右走的。
|
||||||
5.11b 5.10d | ★★ Lay Backer | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Big Beginner | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#soft 比附近的其他10d简单。动作多样,流畅。点开始包浆了
|
||||||
5.10b | Hidden Smoke | 11m, 3 | Average | |||
我从左边起步,横切挂第一挂片。
|
||||||
Mon 6th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Happy Feet | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
#repeat
不平衡,比5.9难些
|
||||||
Sun 5th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
难点在翻屋檐,缝不深,半个指节。手指小的人可能有些优势。
|
||||||
Sun 5th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Midlands | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Air Up There | 31m, 16 | Average | |||
上半段是微仰角大点风格。爬的人不多,很多干青苔。
|
||||||
Sat 4th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Black Hole Heart | 23m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
沿俯角裂缝上,一直感觉不平衡,需要找layback对抗。最后两个挂片靠左,翻顶。顶靠里,磨绳。要是把顶下降一个挂片,这条线路就更加合理了,可评2:star: 。#NoTopRope 不建议顶绳攀爬。
|
||||||
Sat 4th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Van Damned | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#repeat 热身,pumped
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Feb 2020 - Railay | ||||||
Thaiwand Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Sanuked | 40m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Traverse right and the overhang are the crux, bolt is run-out right after the overhang, it would be better to add a bolt here. Jugs for the rest. 70m rope is barely enough to descent, remember to tie the end knots.Top is a small cave, to sit and belay.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ Getting to know youu (Getting to Know You) | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great quality rock, a small ledge on the top to belay.
|
||||||
Fri 21st Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Eagle Wall Main Face | ||||||
6b | ★★ Lost in Space | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
some nice moves, crux near the top
|
||||||
Fri 21st Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Eagle Wall Left Side | ||||||
6b | ★★ Desayuno de Nono | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
3 sections, crux in the middle section. Long route with various styles, the drag near the top is terrible.
|
||||||
Thu 20th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
6b | ★ Wacky Weed | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 18th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars - with lollypop | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
#2go
There are three different beta for the upper crux: left, center, right. Left beta is probably the easiest for long reach. Classic balancy route.
|
||||||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
#4go static beta for the crux. Rest day really helps.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 14th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
endurance. Nick name is “three pipes”
|
||||||
Thu 13th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake) - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
#4go
finally relaxed and paid more attention to left footwork.
|
||||||
Tue 11th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Polished jugs
|
||||||
Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Honeymoon | ||||||
6a | ★★ Full Metal Jacket | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Smooth moves on smooth jugs.
|
||||||
Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Hilton | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Mon General | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux around 4th bolt, hard to read correctly from below. Not hard to red point though.
|
||||||
Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Open All Hours | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ From Dusk Till Dawn | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Traverse and the tube are great. Need good tech and footwork.
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ 100% Special | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb, jugs
|
||||||
Fri 7th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Spielhölle | ||||||
6b+ 6b | ★★ Roulette | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
slab balancy start, small roof finish. Great route. Given the slab and traverse, I think it is harder than 'slot machine'.
|
||||||
Thu 6th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Methan | ||||||
6b | ★★ Fränkischer Einstieg | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Jug stairs, to great face climb, to overhang. Harder as you climb up.
|
||||||
Thu 6th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Elephant | ||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ Beginner's Roof | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Need good core
|
||||||
Wed 5th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Music Hall | ||||||
5c+ | ★★★ Caveman | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Crazy roof crawling, even through a hole. Very unique style, must do.
|
||||||
Wed 5th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Canyon Canyon Left | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Kim and Struppi | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice long climb, upper section is chimney style
|
||||||
6b | ★★★ Arkanoid | 30m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard start, should use side crimp to the far right to make it easier. Tricky finish
|
||||||
Wed 5th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Canyon Canyon Right | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Super Meat Boy | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux at the overhang before the ledge, afterwards are nice polished crack. May climb with trad gears.
|
||||||
Tue 4th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Roof Right Side | ||||||
7b | ★★ Schwing mei Ding Extension (Schwing mei Ding) | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
#2go another V3/4 roof problem on top of the first pitch. Use head to push against the roof for no hand resting. Then hit the jug right, many toe and heel hook and pull up. My first 7b /5.12b
|
||||||
7a+ | ★★ Schwing dei Ding | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
#2go
Classic crazy route! Most 3D route I ever climbed!
Beta spoil alert, don’t read this if you want to onsight. —————————— First crux at lower traverse, polished foot holes, unclip 4th draw, then lie down for no hand rest. Second crux across the roof and over, right hand out near the bolt, left hand into the hole on the roof, feet up and put your waist against the hanging flake, right hand to ledge, left hand across over, swing out. Then traverse above the bolt line to anchor. |
||||||
Mon 3rd Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Elephant | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Sunrise | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overhang traverse crux at the 2nd bolt. Good climb.
|
||||||
Mon 3rd Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Tree Lounge | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Illusion | 19m, 6 | Average | |||
Reachy crux at 3rd bolt. May hit the ledge before clipping 4th bolt, so make sure you are solid at this grade.
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Climbers Home | ||||||
6b | ★★ Already done | 29m, 12 | Average | |||
The lower half is overhanging jugs, fun and harder, dirty though. Upper half is razor sharp rocks and boring.
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Botanical Garden | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Spirit Mango | 21m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Not an easy 6a+. One reachy overhang move.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ Flower Power | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overhang endurance for the upper half, great moves
|
||||||
Sat 1st Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Elephant | ||||||
6b | ★★ Between Night and Day | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3D overhang jugs
|
||||||
Sat 1st Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Hilton | ||||||
6b | ★★ Red Ants | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tufa and face
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ Fried Brit | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
big tufas, 3D climbing. Starting is hard, stick clip first if possible. Bring more long draws, otherwise the drag would be terrible.
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Pinzgauer Bua | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great tufa climbing, some variations, not boring.
|
||||||
Fri 31st Jan 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Elephant | ||||||
6a | ★★ Priapismus | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice tufa climbing on good quality rock
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Beginner's Roof | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean draws for others
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Jan 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Western Hill 西山 观海阁岩 High Area | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ 热泪盈眶 Cannot stop self-crying | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
沿大裂缝直上,动作丰富的有趣线路,大点layback,侧拉,stem。爬完收工
|
||||||
5.11a | ★ 岩雀 Rock sparrow | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
一路裂缝大点,挂顶有点难。
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★ 凡尘 Mortal world | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
一路大点舒服,难点在挂顶。
|
||||||
5.10a | ★ 东土方丈 Abbor from Tang | 16m, 6 | Average | |||
下面的裂缝还不错,上半部小灌木有些影响,动作也变难。可以只爬下半段
|
||||||
5.10c | ★ 鸡汤侠 Chicken soup master | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
slab然后仰角大点,适合热身
|
||||||
Tue 21st Jan 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Western Hill 西山 猫头鹰岩 Low Area | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ 临时工 Temporary job | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
看别人爬的不难,也试了一下。难度均匀,后半段难些,需要耐力,没有尖锐难点,耐力好的话不难。动作比较丰富
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ 虫洞 worm hole | 21m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
一路都是洞,大点大动作,舒展
|
||||||
5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ 伶仃 Ling ding | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.10d | ★ 不可逆转 The irreversible | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
大点大动作,耐力。pumpy
|
||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ 武状元之血雨腥风 Kongfu No. 1 - Blood shed | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
裂缝大点,对5.9来说算有点难
|
||||||
Mon 20th Jan 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Western Hill 西山 观海阁岩 High Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 靠谱不靠谱 Reliable or not | 26m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
动作丰富,难度均匀的耐力线。很多休息的地方。slab扣扣,钟乳,反提都有。比 ‘面壁’ 和 醉汉的归宿 简单
|
||||||
5.11b | ★ 任性玩家 Willful Player | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
第二挂片的难点往左边走的,感觉并不难,软。
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★ 面壁 Face the wall | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
起步仰角单步难点。一定先挂好第二挂片
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ 喋喋不休 Blabla | 32m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
翻屋檐是难点
|
||||||
Sun 12th Jan 2020 - The Paradiso | ||||||
12 | ★ Unknown | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Exit
|
||||||
16 | ★ Unzip | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good holds
|
||||||
Sun 5th Jan 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Surrender | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Dusty, otherwise a great balance slab route. Hard for the grade.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky for the first two bolts, could be a nice warm up
|
||||||
Fri 3rd Jan 2020 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hercules | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Even difficulty, More techy than power, can be done with fluent sequence and beautiful moves. Really like this one
|
||||||
21 23 | ★★ Imogen | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More reachy and power, Harder than Hercules
|