Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Europe Switzerland Alpen Sarganserland Voralpsee | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Grenzgänger | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th May 2011 | |||
in the sun...
|
|||||||
8a+ | ★★ Bandit | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th May 2011 | |||
Speed is amazing! waiting for better conditions...
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Santa Linya | |||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Gypsy Blood | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Santa Linya Cova Gran | |||||||
9a | ★★ Ciudad de Dios | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Dec 2012 | |||
2nd day in Spain, feels great to be here! Merry Christmas!!
|
|||||||
8b | ★★★ La Ruta del Sol | 35m | Fri 29th Apr 2011 | ||||
9a+ | ★ Catxasa | ★ Good | Tue 9th Jan 2018 | ||||
a lot of sika but climbs well! soft for 9a+ I think
|
|||||||
8c+ 9a | ★★★ La Fabelita Extension (Fabelita) | 45m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Feb 2009 | |||
8c+ 8c | ★★★ Open Your Mind | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Jan 2009 | ||||
wet as shit, but amazing climbing!
|
|||||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★ Open Your Mind Direct (Direct open your mind) | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | |||
back home after tomorrow.. was an amazing spain trip again, back to training mode now...
|
|||||||
9a | ★★ La Fabela | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Dec 2010 | |||
3rd Go this trip. hardest 8c+ in Santa Linya I think... due to rain no Oliana today , back to Austria tmrw, i'll come back for papichulo tho!!!
|
|||||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★ Ingravis Serps Extension (Ingravid Serps extension) | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Feb 2009 | ||||
4th Go, I don't know if the extension makes it 8c+
|
|||||||
8c | ★★ Ingravis Serps (Ingravid Serps) | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Feb 2009 | ||||
had to do the crux different, since the tofa is always wet
|
|||||||
9a | ★★ La Novena Enmienda | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | |||
8c | ★★★ Rolito Sharma Extension (Rollito Sharma extension) | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Feb 2009 | |||
8b | ★★★ Rolito Sharma (Rollito Sharma) | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Feb 2009 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Davora Hombres | Thu 4th Jan 2018 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ La Novena Puerta | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Dec 2010 | |||
easy 8c, never 8c+ i think
|
|||||||
8b+ | ★★ Remeneo (¿?) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Apr 2011 | |||
did Novena Puerta before (same end)... which is not much harder in my opinion...
|
|||||||
9b | ★★ Neanderthal | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Dec 2018 | |||
2nd ascent after Chris Sharma!
Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!!
You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge)
2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest
3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore
|
|||||||
8c 8c+ | ★★ La Ultima Ola | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | |||
8a+ | ★★ Irak Attack | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jan 2018 | |||
flash/onsight
|
|||||||
7b+ | ★★ Boludo | 12m | ★ Good | Sat 30th Dec 2017 | |||
7c | ★★ Kañotero | 12m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Jan 2018 | |||
9b | ★★★ Stoking the Fire | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Jan 2018 | ||||
3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra
|
|||||||
9a | Mercenaris del Passat | 35m | Fri 12th Jan 2018 | ||||
broke the top hold when I was going to clip the chains, so some would say not an actual ascent.. Would be the 2nd ascent after chris took out the sika holds I think. hard for 9a..
|
|||||||
9a | ★★★ Selecció Natural Left Extension | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Dec 2012 | ||||
FA of the new little extention which gives this nice line the obvious end. Solid 9a like this I think..
|
|||||||
9a 8c+ to 9a | ★★★ Analogica Natural | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Jan 2013 | |||
3rd Go, but I knew the 2nd part already..(Seleccio Natural). Again with the new little extension, SA after Magnus of this version of the route,easy 9a like that we think... future will tell though..
|
|||||||
9a | ★★★ Fuck the System | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jan 2013 | |||
3rd Go this trip. two 9a's in a day, great start of the year!!
|
|||||||
8c | ★★★ Digital System | 28m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Apr 2011 | |||
8b+/8c I think, should have tried to onsight, but I tried Fuck the System before, which has the same start -.-
|
|||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Blomu (L3) (Blomu) | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Apr 2010 | |||
5 amazing climbing days in spain, tmrw back to austria...
|
|||||||
8b | ★★★ Blomu (L2) (Blomu) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Apr 2010 | |||
after a 15 hours drive haha...volcano...
|
|||||||
8a | ★★ Air Line (L2) (Air Line) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2010 | |||
8c+ | ★ Santa Linya Extension | ★ Good | Thu 11th Jan 2018 | ||||
8b | ★★ Santa Linya | 25m | Mon 9th Feb 2009 | ||||
8c | ★★★ Santa Leña | 28m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Jan 2009 | |||
back to austria tomorrow
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Terradets Paret de les Bruixes | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Bon Viatge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Apr 2010 | ||||
8a+ in topo, but even really soft for 8a...
|
|||||||
8a | ★★★ Milenium (Millenium) | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Apr 2010 | |||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Oliana Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||||
8c | ★★★ Paper mullat | 45m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Dec 2011 | |||
awesome!!! 8b+/8c
|
|||||||
8b | ★★★ De picos pardos (Picos Pardos) | 45m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 30th Nov 2011 | |||
basically onsight
|
|||||||
9b | ★★★ Fight or Flight | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Dec 2014 | |||
First 9b, such an amazing birthday present!
|
|||||||
9a+ | Joe Mama | Dec 2016 | |||||
9a+ | ★★★ Pachamama | 50m | Jan 2017 | ||||
9a+ | ★★★ Papichulo | 45m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Apr 2011 | |||
YEAAH! huge relief, 50m... mentally very hard! tried in december for 3 days, 2 days this year. 11 tries in total! in my last try, before leavin oliana!
|
|||||||
8c+ 9a | ★★ Joe Cita | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Dec 2016 | ||||
8c+ | ★★★ Joe Blau | Fri 23rd Dec 2016 | |||||
8c | ★★★ El gran blau | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 22nd Apr 2010 | |||
wuhuu 50 meters of joy! thx Fuzzy!!!
|
|||||||
8b+ | ★★ Gorilas en la niebla | 50m | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Dec 2016 | |||
8c+ | ★★★ Marroncita Extension | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Dec 2011 | ||||
really good! short slabby boulder after the 8b. I guess SA after Chris
|
|||||||
8b | ★★★ La marroncita (Marroncita) | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Apr 2011 | |||
soo good!!!
|
|||||||
8c | ★★ Fish eye | 50m | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Dec 2016 | |||
8c+ 8c+ to 9a | ★★ Duele la realidad | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Dec 2010 | |||
5th Go. without pre-clipping the 3rd draw, which makes it a lot harder, i think. congrats to dani for doing the L2 and chris for doing his project!!!
|
|||||||
8a | ★★ Happy hour | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Apr 2010 | |||
8a | ★★★ Mishi | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Dec 2010 | |||
awesome!
|
|||||||
8c | ★★ T-1 Full Equip | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Dec 2010 | |||
nice line!
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Margalef Raco De La Finestra | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Dando Brea | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Apr 2011 | |||
8b+ | ★★★ Via Del Quim | 24m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Apr 2011 | |||
40 min after Aitzol. didn't feel easier at all, also because it's much less obvious i guess...
|
|||||||
8c 8b+ | ★★★ Aitzol | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Apr 2011 | |||
What a nice start of the trip! hard to grade after the onsight, hard 8b+ or easy 8c... i dunno, but whatever, amazing route!!!
|
|||||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★ Victimes del Futur | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | |||
My hardest flash so far! People call it 9a since two things broke in the crux but could very well still be 8c+, hard to tell with just one try on it. Love the bouldery style!
|
|||||||
9b+ | ★★★ Perfecto Mundo | 26m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | |||
3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!!
|
|||||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★★ Gancho Perfecto | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | ||||
What a day! Quickly checked the moves after sending Perfecto Mundo and did it right after before it got dark. Such a cool route!
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Margalef Laboratori | |||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Bumbayé (Bumaye) | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Dec 2012 | |||
Best route that I have done in Margalef! 3rd Go this year/day (4th in total)
|
|||||||
8b+ | ★★ Doble Iluna (Doble Lluna) | 14m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Dec 2008 | |||
d276589maybe 8b
|
|||||||
8b+ 8c | ★★ Darwin dixit | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Apr 2010 | ||||
really soft...
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Margalef Racó de les Espadelles | |||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Toni Kaneloni | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Apr 2011 | |||
8a | ★★★ Ximpleta | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Apr 2011 | |||
8b | ★★★ El Ball Del Triceps | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2011 | |||
nice but sharp
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Siurana Can Piqui Pugui | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Anabolica | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Feb 2009 | ||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Siurana La Capella | |||||||
9a+ | ★ La Furia de Jabalí | ★ Good | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
3rd ascent after Will and Alex. 3rd try and right after flashing Jungle Speed, such a sick day!
Really my style and with Alex‘s new beta I‘d grade this one 9a+ as well especially since I graded La Capella 9a+ and I think they are similarly hard. But who knows, this is my suggestion 😉
|
|||||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★ Jungle Speed | 15m | Average | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | |||
Yes! Probably my hardest flash so far, at least I really struggled and had to fight 😅
8c+/9a, hard to grade after the flash since I definitely didn’t climb it optimally..
Thanks for the beta and support Alfons 🙏
|
|||||||
9a | Last Night | 15m | Average | Wed 15th Dec 2021 | |||
2nd ascent after Will.
I now fulfilled the ultimate task to do all the hard routes in this sector in my 9 climbing day of the trip, so psyched 😄
This one was hard for me, had to find new beta since I couldn’t do the move Will did. If you like the style it‘s probably similarly hard as Jungle Speed though 🤔
Check my video of King Capella and la Capella here:
|
|||||||
9a+ 9b | ★★★ La Capella | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Dec 2021 | |||
Just 2 hours after King Capella, such a sick day! One day I had to give King Capella a break because of my skin, so I briefly checked this one out. Because I loved the style so much I could do it very fast on the same day as King Capella then. Thanks to Alex Megos for sharing his great beta with me. Really didn’t feel like a 9b to me, so gotta go with 9a+ on this one..
Video:
|
|||||||
9b 9b+ | ★★ King Capella | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Dec 2021 | |||
2nd repetition after Will Bosi (FA) and Alex Megos.
It took me 4 days of work. Such a cool route, definitely my style, a very bouldery crimpy route! Since it‘s so sharp the skin management was almost the biggest challenge for me. It went down too quick to agree on 9b+ so I think hard 9b could be more appropriate 🤔
Uncut phone footage following soon!
Video:
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Catalan coastal ranges north La Cova de l'Ocell Sector Coves | |||||||
9a+ 9b | ★★★ El Bon Combat | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Dec 2018 | |||
One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper.
Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!!
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Alquézar La Colegiata | |||||||
8a | El mentor | Sun 21st Dec 2008 | |||||
8a | ★★★ El Quijote del montanhismo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Dec 2008 | ||||
8b | ★★★ Noa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Dec 2008 | ||||
1st day climbing in Spain --> syked!
|
|||||||
8a | ★★ Anival | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Dec 2008 | ||||
8a | ★★ Intrepidos montanhistas | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Dec 2008 | ||||
Harder now, cause a hold broke
|
|||||||
8c | ★★ Tsunami | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Dec 2008 | ||||
was soo close to flash it! fell after the crux, like a retard! maybe 8b+, 3rd Go
|
|||||||
8a+ | Los Atletas de la Roca | Wed 24th Dec 2008 | |||||
sick of this cave! A muerte to Margalef
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Andalusia Málaga Villanueva del Rosario Chilam | |||||||
9b | La Planta de Shiva - with Jakob Schubert | 45m | Jan 2016 | ||||
Europe Spain Andalusia Jaén Jaén municipio Otiñar | |||||||
8c | ★★★ Sex after Climb - with Jakob Schubert | Jan 2016 | |||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | Fuck the Police - with Jakob Schubert | Mar 2016 | |||||
8c+ | Tres Satélites - with Jakob Schubert | Mar 2016 | |||||
Europe Slovenia Koper Mišja Peč Right | |||||||
8c | ★★★ Strelovod | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Nov 2009 | |||
really soft.. 2nd Go of this year
|
|||||||
8a+ | ★★ Sonce v očeh (Sonce v o?eh) | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Nov 2007 | |||
9a | ★★★ Martin Krpan | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Nov 2011 | |||
Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec!
|
|||||||
8b | ★★ Marjetica | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Nov 2007 | |||
8b/8b+! climbed it with no feeling in my fingers, so cold!
|
|||||||
8c | ★★ Konec mira | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Nov 2009 | |||
8c/8c+ bad conditions
|
|||||||
8b+ | ★ Missing link | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Nov 2009 | |||
8b+ | ★★ Missing drink | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Nov 2009 | |||
Europe Slovenia Koper Mišja Peč Centre | |||||||
8b | ★★ Marioneta | 19m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Nov 2011 | |||
japanese beta
|
|||||||
8b | ★★ Mrtvaški ples | 19m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Nov 2007 | |||
hard to on sight
|
|||||||
8a | ★★★ Samsara | 19m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Nov 2009 | |||
8a | Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Nov 2009 | |||
8c | ★★★ Corrida | 31m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 22nd Nov 2007 | |||
took all my nervs
|
|||||||
Europe Slovenia Koper Mišja Peč Left | |||||||
8c | ★★ Talk Is Cheap! | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 15th Nov 2010 | |||
2nd go this year, 3rd in total.
|
|||||||
Europe Norway Mid Norway Nord-Trøndelag Flatanger Hanshallaren Nordic Flower | |||||||
8c | The Valkyrie | Mon 18th Sep 2023 | |||||
So amazing 😍
|
|||||||
8c | ★★ Nordic Flower | May 2016 | |||||
9a+ 9a/a+ | ★★★ Thor's Hammer | Aug 2015 |