Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Leviathan | ||||||
21 | ★ No Antidote for Floating in Yuddy Pale Blue Viral Infections - with deano | Average | ||||
Took a few goes to get the crux move. Pre-clipped 2nd bolt.
Easy holds after 2nd bolt lead to the left, but continuing up to the right of the 3rd bolt makes a much better climb.
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22 | Power in the Blood - with deano | 7m | Average | |||
Solid climbing for first two bolts, with traverse moves making it feel longer, but then it's all over.
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21 | ★★ Psoriasis - with deano | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Last climb of the day, fingers didnt have enough in them for the start.
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22 | ★★ No Antidote - with deano | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much pumpier than the Chessboard. Glad to have spaced good rests, but still not hanging on by much at the anchors.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Chessboard | ||||||
16 | ★ Revelation Six Sixteen - with janet, deano | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Ligament Laxity - with janet, deano | 15m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Nothing Left to Give - with janet, deano | 15m | ||||
18 | ★ One Perfect Day - with janet, deano | 15m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Decree of Love - with janet, deano | 15m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Crash Course in Brain Surgery - with janet, deano | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much more involved than it looks from the ground!
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19 | ★ Living in a Transient World - with janet, deano | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - The Monkeys | ||||||
Mad Monkeys | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Etiquette of Violence - with Max | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not very sustained, with awesome rests at bolts, but plenty of great moves, and would be easy to mess up the sequence in the top crux.
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23 | ★ Give Me Convenience or Give me Death - with Max | 20m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
Did the LH variant start. Got it, but not easily, and then discovered the bulge was really pumpy but managed to get through it.
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21 | ★★ There's a Cat in My Alleyway - with Max | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs really well, and enough to get a bit of a pump working.
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Sun 31st Dec 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Plebeian Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ No more heroes - with Mike | 18m, 11 | Average | |||
Tue 26th Dec 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Plebeian Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Riffraff Roof - with Mike | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
23 | ★ Cluening Around - with Deano | 10m, 6 | Average | |||
A nice feature but don't screw it up going for the first bolt, and make sure it has been cleaned!
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22 | ★★ Blue Suede Clues - with Deano | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some really fun moves and a couple of ways to do the crux. Possibly on soft side of 22?
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18 | ★★ A Clue Or Two - with Deano | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★ Cluedoo Child - with Deano | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Really damn pumpy and powerful!
Best to stick clip 2nd bolt and not mess up the start.
Probably need two more days to get this one.
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
19 | ★ COVID - with shirley | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★ Totally Awesome - with shirley | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thesaurus - with shirley | 24m, 10 | Average | |||
Definitely not 2 stars, but there is some nice climbung between the contrived line and climbing up another route (with separate bolts) several times
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Step Tier | ||||||
24 | ★★ Bokeh - with Alice | 63m | ||||
P1 only. Alternative access to Opthalmia P2.
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Migdafinga - with Deano | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Mr Plumpy - with Deano | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Stepping right from the first pedestal makes a few more really nice moves.
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26 | ★★★ Unrequited - with Deano | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just on the first half. Feels like this should go fairly easily, but not sure about the top half.
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Migdafinga - with Sammi, Janet | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Actually has some pleasant moves, but climb is essentially over at 2/3 height.
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21 | ★★★ Kansas City Shuffle - with Sammi, Janet | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The rope was up...
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21 | Captain Barnacles - with Sammi, Janet | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
Really nice moves in the first half, but ends up as a ramble in the top half.
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20 | ★★ The Greatest View - with Sammi, Janet | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cryptic Clue — 3 attempts | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 laps TR solo
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Plebeian Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Pleb's Rusticus - with Mike | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★★ Riffraff Roof - with Mike | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Spartacus - with Mike | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ The Patrician - with Mike | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lost foot while clipping above roof. Pumpy for 3m above roof, otherwise pretty easy.
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23 | ★★ The Plebeian - with Mike | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
11 | ★ Via Appia - with Mike | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
17 | Fred Sopporth - with Mike | 16m | Average | |||
20 | Standard Deviation - with Mike | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Three Card Trick - with Mike | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Inca Trail - with Mike | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 30th May 2021 - North Esk | ||||||
Riverbend | ||||||
18 19 | ★ Eiffel Tower - with Darren | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy, but at lwast 18.
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
21 | Midas' Touch - with Janet | 18m, 9 | Average | |||
Nice moves in the top half, but pretty contrived start
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20 | ★★ Goldleaf - with Janet | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb.
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20 | ★ Buried Treasure - with Janet | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Should really be a trad climb, but fun regardless.
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15 | ★ Pay Dirt - with Janet | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy warmup
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19 | ★★ Inca Trail - with Janet | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Golden Thread - with Janet | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Getting pumped at top, but crux was a good finger lock.
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21 | Midas' Touch - with Janet | 18m, 9 | Average | |||
Nice moves in the top half, but pretty contrived start
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20 | ★★ Goldleaf - with Janet | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb.
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20 | ★ Buried Treasure - with Janet | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Should really be a trad climb, but fun regardless.
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15 | ★ Pay Dirt - with Janet | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy warmup
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19 | ★★ Inca Trail - with Janet | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Golden Thread - with Janet | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Getting pumped at top, but crux was a good finger lock.
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Wed 11th Nov 2020 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
26 | ★★ Clu Crux Clan | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Better than I expected, with the climbing up to the roof fun by itself, and the 'boulder problem' is definitely a boulder problem!
Will have to be careful to keep rope from catching on roof in middle of crux on lead.
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22 | ★★ Cryptic Clue | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 9th Nov 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Mansion On The Hill | ||||||
22 | ★ Missing Josiah | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Note to self: 'bouldery' means minging crimps. Painful start, then a couple of ok moves and easy top-out.
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22 | ★★ Barbeque Boy | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Not that inspirational, just a few long moves to a few crimps.
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Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Rabbit Trap Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Pets Prefer Purple | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very difficult crux for 21, unless I totally screwed the sequence. Went out right.
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Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Mt Blackwood Summit | ||||||
23 | ★★ Back in the game - with Mike Hitchcock | 30m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, but not as good as any of the cracks.
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Tue 3rd Nov 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Right Man Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ Ng Man | 12m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome! Probable, yet improbable. Packs in a lot of really good moves for such a short climb.
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24 23 | ★★ Godfather | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Did the direct start. Didn't feel super hard, but that could be because the moves were obvious. Still had some fun moves.
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Tue 27th Oct 2020 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | Average | |||
Still enjoyable, but not great climbing.
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21 | ★ Plastic Extras | 18m | Average | |||
22 | ★ General Benefit | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ General Discipline | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★ Bad Habits | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 15th Jul 2020 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
18 | ★ Phantom Stone Thrower - with Alice | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Ruddiocracy - with Alice | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaned up a lot from previous ascent. Some nice moves.
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24 | ★ Les Grands Ensembles - with Alice | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Not as hard or painful as I remembered. Fun, very technical last couple of bolts. Should have led it, but the rope was already up...
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22 | ★★ Driller Direct - with Alice | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
The climbing itself is fun, but the bolting is stupid. Should share first 2-3 bolts with Tour, then move across to Serial Driller.
The glued hold is also a big shame, makes me want to pull it off...
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Fri 10th Jul 2020 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory | ||||||
28 | ★★ Street Fighter - with lizzie | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
In fading light, but still way above my pay grade in prefect light. Got to 2nd last bolt clean, then hard! Need much stronger fingers.
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23 | ★★★ Antimatter - with lizzie | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Did the crux way too easily after milking the rest in the roof.
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Wed 8th Jul 2020 - North Sister | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
24 | ★★ Argo (fukyaself) | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Start wasn't as rubbish as guide suggests, just much easier than the top. Don't get too high in the top corner before moving L!
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22 | ★★ Lick my Love Pump | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really cool, with lots of fun moderate moves and a few spots where technique makes all the difference.
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24 | ★★ Twisted Sister | 35m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing, with a hard, slopey crux. Deano said he normally goes to a crimp just right of the sloper first, and that makes it a bit easier. Made a few sounds there, and then nearly screwed it again just below the anchors when the jugs ran out.
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22 | ★ Love is for Suckers | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really fun climbing with plenty of good stances.
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25 | ★ Suck On My Chocolate Salty Balls | 30m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Took ages to figure out the crux, and still felt really hard. Would definitely not like to be shorter! Mid section pretty rubbish rock, but top was really cool (reach important again).
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - North Sister | ||||||
Summit Plateau | ||||||
24 | ★★ Stunt Cock - with Deano | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Very defined crux just before moving to the arete, otherwise around 21?
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23 | ★★ This is Spinal Tap - with Deano | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start wasn't as 'perplexing' as the guide suggests, but continuous climbing above on rock similar to Left Out on the pipes. Try to stay right (out of the moss) at the top.
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20 | ★★ Smell the Glove - with Deano | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly good. Top corner could feel very hard if doing it the wrong way.
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Wed 3rd Jun 2020 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
21 20 | ★ Migdafinga (Unknown) | 20m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
Not sure if you're meant to stay off the ramp to the R? Tried to, but pretty hard and contrived. Difficulties ease with height.
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23 21 | Captain Barnacles | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Steeper than I thought! Felt pretty easy for 23, but still good fun.
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21 | ★★★ Kansas City Shuffle | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Left the climbing shoes at the top, so felt a bit harder than 21, and not so enjoyable.
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22 | ★★ Mumble Bee | 17m, 6 | ||||
Got second shot after a few falls on tue first attempt. Felt much harder than Captain Barnacles. Hard crux, but I really need to work on endurance.
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20 | ★ Hue Bris | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Several large wet patches in the first half. The easy ramp at start and being short makes it not so great.
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20 | ★★ The Greatest View | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup. Really fun with good angle and plenty of jugs.
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14 | ★ Room With A View | 15m, 10 | Don't Bother | |||
Pretty crappy rock in a nice position.
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20 | ★★ The Greatest View | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second lap.
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Fri 15th May 2020 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
23 | ★ The Ruin of the Cluan | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun section halfway felt stiff for 21, but the crux is definitely near the top. Would probably get a 'classic ' if it wasn't covered in moss and lichen.
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22 | ★★ Cryptic Clue | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Figured out much better beta for the crux section, and did traverse move near top easily this time.
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21 | ★★ Blues Clues | 40m | ★ Good | |||
A few tricky or powerful sections, but interspersed with a few too many easier zones.
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Mon 16th Mar 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | ||||||
23 | Made in China | 10m, 3 | Crap | |||
Totally contrived, just ended up pulling myself up half the route. The rock pushes you into Sitting Bull the whole way, with the exception of the last move. Don't waste your time or skin.
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Sun 1st Mar 2020 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cryptic Clue - with Deano | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mostly really good climbing but with a lot of rests and some dodgy rock.
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22 | ★ George Clueney - with cj | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Foot popped and made my elbow make popping sounds. Would be excellent if it was twice as long and not escapable at 2/3 height. Woupd need to be immaculately cleaned to feel lioe 22!
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Sat 10th Aug 2019 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The Gorge Galaxy Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek - with Gregory | 85m, 16 | Average | |||
Not that great. Very nice setting, but the climbing isn't amazing considering the other quality routes that grade in the general area, and some sections of bolting are just plain weird.
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Thu 8th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Weiner in the Bun - with Gregory | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. Slipped off first time going past last bolt. Pretty intimidating bolt spacing!
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Papoose | ||||||
5.10b | ★ The Scenario - with Soren | 40m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Went the wrong way at the crux and fell. Solid moves, but keep left on the small holds instead of trying for the layaway flake up right too early.
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