Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 18th May 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Rock Of Ages & Surrounds | ||||||
20 | ★★ Pack Destroyer - with Deano | 10m | ||||
Good fun. A harder and better(?) version of jugs r us?
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Leviathan | ||||||
22 | ★★ No Antidote - with deano | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much pumpier than the Chessboard. Glad to have spaced good rests, but still not hanging on by much at the anchors.
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - The Monkeys | ||||||
Mad Monkeys | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Etiquette of Violence - with Max | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not very sustained, with awesome rests at bolts, but plenty of great moves, and would be easy to mess up the sequence in the top crux.
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21 | ★★ There's a Cat in My Alleyway - with Max | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs really well, and enough to get a bit of a pump working.
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Sun 31st Dec 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Plebeian Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ No more heroes - with Mike | 18m, 11 | Average | |||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
22 | ★★ Blue Suede Clues - with Deano | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some really fun moves and a couple of ways to do the crux. Possibly on soft side of 22?
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18 | ★★ A Clue Or Two - with Deano | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
19 | ★ COVID - with shirley | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thesaurus - with shirley | 24m, 10 | Average | |||
Definitely not 2 stars, but there is some nice climbung between the contrived line and climbing up another route (with separate bolts) several times
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Mr Plumpy - with Deano | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Stepping right from the first pedestal makes a few more really nice moves.
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Plebeian Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Pleb's Rusticus - with Mike | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
17 | Fred Sopporth - with Mike | 16m | Average | |||
20 | Standard Deviation - with Mike | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Three Card Trick - with Mike | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 30th May 2021 - North Esk | ||||||
Riverbend | ||||||
18 19 | ★ Eiffel Tower - with Darren | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy, but at lwast 18.
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
20 | ★★ Goldleaf - with Janet | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb.
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20 | ★ Buried Treasure - with Janet | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Should really be a trad climb, but fun regardless.
|
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15 | ★ Pay Dirt - with Janet | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy warmup
|
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19 | ★★ Inca Trail - with Janet | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Golden Thread - with Janet | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Getting pumped at top, but crux was a good finger lock.
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20 | ★★ Goldleaf - with Janet | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb.
|
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20 | ★ Buried Treasure - with Janet | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Should really be a trad climb, but fun regardless.
|
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15 | ★ Pay Dirt - with Janet | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy warmup
|
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19 | ★★ Inca Trail - with Janet | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Golden Thread - with Janet | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Getting pumped at top, but crux was a good finger lock.
|
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Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Mt Blackwood Summit | ||||||
23 | ★★ Back in the game - with Mike Hitchcock | 30m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, but not as good as any of the cracks.
|
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Wed 15th Jul 2020 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
22 | ★★ Driller Direct - with Alice | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
The climbing itself is fun, but the bolting is stupid. Should share first 2-3 bolts with Tour, then move across to Serial Driller.
The glued hold is also a big shame, makes me want to pull it off...
|
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - North Sister | ||||||
Summit Plateau | ||||||
23 | ★★ This is Spinal Tap - with Deano | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start wasn't as 'perplexing' as the guide suggests, but continuous climbing above on rock similar to Left Out on the pipes. Try to stay right (out of the moss) at the top.
|
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Sun 1st Mar 2020 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cryptic Clue - with Deano | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mostly really good climbing but with a lot of rests and some dodgy rock.
|
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Sat 10th Aug 2019 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The Gorge Galaxy Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek - with Gregory | 85m, 16 | Average | |||
Not that great. Very nice setting, but the climbing isn't amazing considering the other quality routes that grade in the general area, and some sections of bolting are just plain weird.
|
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Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Sunshine Rock Paddock Wall Right | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Steeplechase P1 - with Janet and Shauna | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
5.10b | ★ Steeplechase P2 - with Janet and Shauna | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable, just a pity it's so short. Been so long since I climbed on limestone...
|
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5.11a | ★★ Secretariat - with Janet and Shauna | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Thin moves at the top, and spent most of the time trying to find the holds. Just as well it isn't too steep!
|
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Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Sunshine Rock Rathaus | ||||||
5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Mountain Even (Mountain Aven) - with Janet | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Jaxx - with Janet | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but fun and definitely a little less obvious than Mountain Aven
|
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Cereal Killer | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Captain Crunch - with deon | 5 | Average | |||
Could be better than we thought, as 50% of the holds were wet. A lot or the rock is partially rotted. Quite a different start, followed by lots of pumpy sidepulls
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Black Lung - with Ian Saunders | 30m, 11 | ||||
Really fun climbing. Fairly sustained lower half, but with a very obvious crux section. Upper part mostly 10a-ish, but super fun. Turkey vultures cruising around waiting for something to happen.
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Gomer | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Give Me Face - with Ian Saunders | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
Another Buttress | ||||||
5.10d 5.11b | ★★ Tilted Glass - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thin and tenuous, but not too painful on the tips.
|
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5.7 | ★★ Hair on a G String - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Actually felt like climbing.
|
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Slices of Quince - with Ian Saunders | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good climbing, going over the classic Skaha polished bulge at the top.
|
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Sat 16th Feb 2019 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area The Colosseum | ||||||
20 | ★★ Crossing the Rubicon - with Mike Hitchcock | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some really nice moves, wit hthe crux off the ground. Pre-clip the second bolt.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Above Bellygood | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Upper Black Dyke - with Alice | 150m, 31 | ★ Good | |||
Final pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. A little dirty, and soaked on R side, but didn't touch anything wet until the top. A little chossy.
|
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | ||||||
5.10a 5.10c | ★ Chassè Right - with Alice | 45m | ||||
p2 (10a) only, accessed by traversing from Xenolith Dance anchors.
|
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Penthouse | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Ciechanowski - with Alice | 25m | Average | |||
Beware. The massive jug on the right after the roof is flexing, and will break off soon.
|
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Raven's Castle | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Whatever - with Alice | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Was meant to do Ladies First, but it was getting dark and completely missed the bolts. Progressively harder right to the top.
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Mon 3rd Sep 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Betazoid / The Milkman's Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Jugs, Not Drugs - with barb | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, juggy gym climbing. Pity it's so short.
|
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5.11c | ★★ Gertrude - with barb | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun. Steep jugs with a single V3 move at the 3rd bolt. Would deserve a star or two if it was a bit longer.
|
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Campground Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Varicose Veins - with Janet | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unbelievably didn't screw it up, despite my best efforts. Crux is around bolts 3-4, with top section pretty simple.
|
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Sat 9th Dec 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Amnesty Wall Area Amnesty Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Tyrants Grasp | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
really fun start, pumpy finish.
|
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23 | ★★ Sting Like a Bee Direct | 19m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
steeper than it looks! bouldery start and pumpy finish.
|
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20 | ★ Raquel's Roadhouse | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
not very amazing. one cruxy move.
|
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20 | ★ The Flying Emu | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
fun start and good variety throughout.
|
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Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Go Anywhere | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Viagra - with Spencer | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 8th Sep 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Raging Duck | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Not the best gear, and not the best climb!
|
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Thu 11th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
The Sanctuary The Basement | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Placebo | 9m | Average | |||
As the guide says, not the best warm-up. A pretty ugly climb, really. Nowhere near two stars!
|
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Thu 11th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Magic Carpet Ride - with Deano | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing. Hard to get off the ground, and a long way to the first clip, but rest of p1 fairly easy, with a harder step left at about 2/3 height. Second pitch gets 11a in the guide, but is definitely the hardest/most sustained. Awesome slabbing. p3 has a couple of hardish moves, but generally felt easier than p2. p4 fairly straight-forwards, with one slightly harder move going past the 4th(?) bolt.
|
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Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Addicted to War (Unknown 2) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Stage Right | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Isa's Eyes | 25m | Average | |||
Sharp rock! Becomes more fun with height.
|
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Wed 29th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Fern Hill | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Burp the Worm - with Deano | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made me sweat, especially getting the final jug. Some pretty burly parts, but unfortunately (fortunate for me) it's not very sustained.
|
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall DOA Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Heavy Petting Action | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unexpectedly long, and climbs very well. A bit confusing right at the top, trying not to cross onto the route to the left.
|
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall Pleasant Pheasant Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant - with Deano | 22m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gets you pumped if you're unfit, but otherwise pretty simple climbing.
|
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Mon 2nd May 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Stouthearted | 34m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Plum Line | 34m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Definitely easier than the climbs to either side, but just such fun climbing!
|
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5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Sagging Bumline | 36m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The new guide gives it 5.9, but it's harder than Plum Line and Stout Hearted, especially near the top. Good run-outs!
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Black Acid | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun, Steep and juggy with incut sidepulls.
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5.11a | ★★ Villainous | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy access to upper pitch
|
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Piggy Monster | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Felt tough for a 5.9 warm-up! But perhaps I'm just soft.
|
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5.10a | ★ Homers Wake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, making me think in a couple of spots
|
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Odyssey | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definite cruxy section near the top
|
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Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Faint Hope Claws - with Janet | 24m, 9 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Fathers Day - with Janet | 22m | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Stubborn Streak - with Janet | 25m | ||||
5.9 | ★ lliad - with Janet | 25m | ||||
Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Dawg - with Janet | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Blue Bull - with Janet | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 29th Sep 2015 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.10a 5.9 | Moss Pit - with Barb | 12m | Crap | |||
Not that mossy since someone cleaned it, but still as good as the name sounds. Shitty cruxy move off the ground and then shitty climbing above that.
|
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Sidewinder - with Jed | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 8th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Goin’ Shrimpin’ (Goin' Shrimpn') - with Jed | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fun moves past the roof.
|
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Fri 7th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Winston's Choice - with Steve | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start, with trickier finish than expected.
|
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5.10a 5.10- | ★★ Primal Dream - with Steve | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Runout in places - could probably place some gear. There is a wasp nest in the overlap just after the second last bolt on p1.
|
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Fri 7th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Maternal Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Pink Cosmo Girls - with Jed | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely not 11a like the guide says, but a little harder than 10b I think.
|
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5.11b | ★★ My Mother Loves Me - with topher | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit too pumpy to be a good warmup!
|
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Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Fern Hill | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Serenity Now - with Steve and Alice | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sandbagged onto this by Steve. Has some hard moves, but main difficulty was finding all the hidden holds!
|
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 Insite Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Rifle - with Barb | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Some hardish moves for a 10a. Reasonably well bolted, but a fall on most of the route would be pretty shitty.
|
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 Preview | ||||||
5.9 | ★ I Might Possibly Consider That | 21m, 7 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★ I'm Not Against It | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Blue du Jour | 23m, 9 | Average | |||
Very dodgy rock in middle section needs cleaning off when no-one's below.
|
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Sun 12th Jul 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Left | ||||||
5.12c 5.12a | ★★ From Beneath You It Devours | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome kneebar halfway up the steep bit. Could be 12c if you had no idea how to jam, but the line is a crack. Probably really a soft 12a.
|
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Fri 10th Jul 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | ||||||
5.10c | ★ The Voodoo That You Do | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Post-lunch warmup
|
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Fri 10th Jul 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area The Crest | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Currently Coagulating | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty fun
|
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Wed 8th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.10d 5.11b | ★ Fearless Fraser (Unknown) | 25m, 8 | Average | |||
Bit of a one-move wonder, but nice rock.
|
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5.10d | ★★★ The Burglar | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great!
|
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Tue 19th May 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The outpost | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Centurion - with Aeron | 170m, 51 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good but not great. Some really enjoyable climbing interspersed with some not-so-good climbing. Pitch 3 climbs the best I think. Pitch 4 is given as the crux pitch, but hardest move is near the start of pitch 5, and pitch 6 is the most sustained. A nice day out, and well worth the walk.
|
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Tue 21st Apr 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Fine Lime | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Much different to other things I've done at Skaha. Slopey! Felt hard for the grade...
|
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5.9 | Danceannette | 9m, 4 | Crap | |||
5.10c | ★ Banana Caliente | 9m, 4 | Average | |||
A bit glassy
|
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5.11a | ★★ Nemesis | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, with a couple of really nice moves near the top
|
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5.10d | ★ Tequila Sunset | 12m, 5 | Average |