Mari Buttress All Trad climbing 27 routes in cliff

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.

Initial moves poorly protected. Bring micro cams, RP's and also some large wires, a 7or8 can help if you're creative. Start 3m R of Mari. Thin flake then R into corner, then stay L of the gully. The RHF takes the groove on the R (21) for the last 10m.

Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.

Sustained arete, ample gear but you need to be able to hang on to get it in. Start a few metres R of Electric Warrior. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan. Start just L of the arete.

"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D.

As you walk off the top of Mari Buttress you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down. Up righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top. The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank.

At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.