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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mari Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Go up the Central Gully track, take the fork to the R just past where the track gets steep.

Descent notes

Rap stations above Megalomaniac and above Electric Warrior.

Or you can walk down either side of the buttress

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Start: Start 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985

Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

Start: Start below the sickle/crack of EA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Up M, L to sickle crack, then over roof.

Start: Start as for M.

FA: Mike Smith & Dennis Kemp, 1981

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Start: Start as for 'Megalomaniac'.

FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!

FA: John Moore, 1967

Start up 'Megalomaniac' then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy

FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Rees & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join PC for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

Start: Start R of M.

FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984

Quite classic and good fun.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967

Initial moves poorly protected.

Start: Start 3m R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian (RHF by Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher), 1985

Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!).

Although it may look mossy, it was brushed clean in late 2015.

Start 2m R of 'Devoid'. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.

FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979

Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

Start: Start R of V.

FA: Mike Graham, 1980

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high.

Start: Start below the major corner crack on the right hand side of the wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976

Sustained arete. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.

Start: Start a few metres R of EW.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Nic Taylor, 1977

Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall. Given a star in some guides.

Start: Start 2m R of DS.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1979

Poor pro up wall with large scar at 10m.

Start: Start 2m R of F.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1984

Wall with poor pro.

Start: Start 2m R of IPD.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

The diagonal line.

Start: Start 4m R of CS.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D.

Start: Start 8m L of D.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan.

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete.

Start: Start at the arete just R of D.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Up to pin, step left then up headwall.

Start: Start: In the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

At last - some truth in advertising! "Doing a new route with me is like sleeping with me. It can be fun at the time but you're not particularly proud of it afterwards"

Start: Start. Right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing 'Central Gully'.

FA: Nikki Sutherland & Deb Sweet, 1999

See arapiles.net for a photo.

Start: Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland & Jon Basindale, 1999

Up Righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top.

Start: Start: As you walk off the top of 'Mari Buttress' you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mari Buttress.