A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jason Lammers Brendan Heywood Ben Jenga Paul Frothy Thomson Graham Dowden Macciza a.k.a. Macca Lee Cujes Luen Warneke Will Vidler John Thirlwell
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
West Face (Main Area)
145 in Crag
- 1.1. Shady Wall / Shady Lady Wall 5 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Middle Cliffs / Main Area 125 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Andy's Area 4 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Choc Chip Chai Sector 9 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Theory of Negativity Wall 11 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Iliad Buttress 7 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Binary Cave / Thumb Roofs 34 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Ben Trovato Wall / The Great Red Wall 37 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Sweet Dreams Walls 15 in Sector
- 1.2.8. Northern Walls 8 in Sector
-
1.3.
Lower Cliff 15 in Cliff
- 1.3.1. Subjacent / Arunga 15 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. West Face (Main Area) 145 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.735326, 150.337447
Übersicht
The west face contains the majority of popular climbing at Sublime Point, and is accessed by a short but exciting steep descent down a series of rock ledges, fixed ropes and tree roots.
Einschränkungen
There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
Zustieg
* please don't add further fixed ropes to the descent
From the Sublime Point carpark walk down tourist track for 100m or so (past a small hut) until you reach the metal bridge. 2m before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff (past yellow sign) for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down fixed rope corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these 2nd set of ropes on the left is Shady Lady wall. For the 'Main Area' continue down steep path and rock steps until you reach the major cliffline. Turn right here and walk along the cliff base for a few 20metres to find the sport route Choc Chip Chai and the first sector. A good track follows the base of this cliff past the other sectors. To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.
To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill to small cliffline, get past it somehow then up again until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).
Übernachtung
Nearest camping is at Katoomba caravan park. Campervans in the carpark is a local access issue - please don't do it. After midnight the carpark gets a lot of yobbos doing drivebys!
Ethik
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
Geschichte
Originally a climbing area of the Rhum Du, a splinter group of the Sydney Rockies in the late 50's. Later re-discovered and further developed by the S.R.C. proper in the early 60's. Development of the cliff led to the production of the first Australian climbing guide, 'The Rock-Climbs of N.S.W.' by Bryden Allen and the SRC.
1.1. Shady Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.737887, 150.338504
Beschreibung
A very shady south facing wall with a couple of sport routes. They are perfect for an afternoon crank on the way out after the main wall gets in the sun. Rock is good quality but top is a little mossy. Shade after 11am. Some idiots have been shitting in the cave on the right side of this crag - desist please! Don't forget the bolt plates if you are planning to climb Shady Lady.
Zustieg
Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of 'Sublime Point'. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of shiny bolts. Routes are listed from left to right.
Abstieg
All routes have lower-off anchors.
Geschichte
Apart from a mysterious trad route on the left side of this wall, the first 'modern' bolted climbing was done by Josh Dobson sometime in the 2000s. In 2010 a few other new routes were added by Jason Lammers and Neil Monteith. Macca has solo TR'd a direct version of the trad route on the left side and continuing to the top ...
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Old Bad Trad
An old all trad route up the obvious easy corner, then right onto face and up to ledge and BB. There a couple of manky pitons en route and a couple of crap bolts on the ledge 2/3rds of the way up the wall to belay off. Grade is a rough guesstimate. Macca has done a solo TR direct version (~22) of this up a faint seam crack a few metres to the right, and continuing to the top of the cliff (shown in topo). Erstbegehung: Direct - Macciza Erstbegehung: Ye Olde Climbers 70s/80s? | 18 | 40m, 2, 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ Consumer Eve
The best warmup/warm down on this wall. Tricky start on shallow pockets (avoiding the tree) then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All U-bolts. Possible (and nice) to continue up p2 of Sundial in one big pitch. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Mike Law, 2010 | 21 | 20m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★ Shady Lady / Sundial
Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.
Erstbegehung: Josh Dodson (pitch 1) Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers (pitch 2), 2010 | 21 | 32m, 2, 15 | |||||
4 |
★ Haterade
Middle route of the wall. Left trending start on orange pocketed rock then back right to small roof. Over this on small holds and up black face above on little edges to lower-off. A little mossy up high. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 24 | 18m, 8 | |||||
5 |
★ Mystery Route
Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point! Erschliesser: Josh Dobson | 25 | 20m |
1.2. Middle Cliffs 125 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.734630, 150.337299
Beschreibung
This long section of continuous cliffline hosts the majority of the popular routes at Sublime Point. It is a steep and exciting descent but once you are at the cliff it's a nice flat area with easy access to a plethora of great climbs. Most of these climbs face west-south-west, so get sun around 3pm.
Zustieg
This area is 12km closer to Sydney than the more popular Blueys crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. Walk down tourist track for 100m or so until you reach the bridge. Just before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down sketchy corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these on the left is The 'Cool Wall'. For the 'Main Area' continue down easier but steep ridge, to cut back right (north) along the base of the cliffline. (There is still another lower cliffline below you). To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.
Rather than walking down, it is possible to rap in from above 'Ben Trovato' Wall or 'Sweet Dreams' Wall, but it's hard to find where to scramble down from above and you either need to fix a 100m rope or make multiple 50m abseils on double ropes. This is probably too scary, exposed and committing for most 'Sweet Dreams' aspirants.
To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).
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1.2.1. Andy's Area 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Alle Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -33.738343, 150.337663
Beschreibung
A fun little sport sector of VERY well protected face routes. The wall faces south west, so is in the shade until mid afternoon. It's possible to do a few routes here on the walk out when the main area is in the sun.
Zustieg
At the bottom of descent where you turn right towards Sweet Dreams - instead turn left and follow the cairn for about 60m to this great little wall.
Abstieg
All routes have lower-offs.
Geschichte
Discovered and developed solely by Andy Richardson in 2012 when he was layed up with injury.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Rain, Hail and Shine
Start off block traversing right then up on killer holds and cool moves Erstbegehung: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 22 | 13m, 9 | |||||
2 |
★★ Ignorance is Bliss
Start on flake, up past 2 bolts the right on rad pockets and up thin headwall. Erstbegehung: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 23 | 12m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★ Knowledge is Power
Start on flake then straight up. Erstbegehung: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 22 | 10m, 8 | |||||
4 |
★★ There's a Tear in There
Start up slab the onto black arête and up. Erstbegehung: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 21 | 10m, 8 |
1.2.2. Choc Chip Chai Sector 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -33.737341, 150.338033
Beschreibung
The first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams).
Zustieg
This is first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams). The landmark is the sport route route Choc Chip Chai, looks for ringbolts and rock cairn at base.
Abstieg
The older routes top out and belay off trees, whilst the newer bolted routes have rap anchors.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pawn's Leap
Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge. Apparently an excellent hangover climb or relaxing afternoon, back in the day.
| 12 R | 47m, 3 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
ES
Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay. Grade is a total guess. Anyone repeated this? | 16 | 50m | |||||
3 |
★★ Choc Chip Chai
A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Culhane, 2009 | 20 | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Vlad the Invader
Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag. Erstbegehung: Heath Black & Millie Malfroy, 23 Mär 2022 | 21 | 17m, 8 | |||||
5 |
★ Defaecation
Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss. Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.
| 12 | 43m, 3 | |||||
6 |
Defecation Direct Start
Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse. Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route. | 12 R | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Caractacus
An old aid route now free. Major line on the right side of alcove with appalling choss at the start. The steep corner crack on the third pitch is the good bit. Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.
Erstbegehung: J. Pickard, 1968 Erstbegehung: Adam Darragh & Brian Burford, 2005 | 21 | 110m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★ Queen's Shift
1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway? Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.
| 11 | 190m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Little Jug of Happiness
A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.
Erstbegehung: Brian Burford & Adam Darragh (pitch 2 - ground up on trad), 2000 Erstbegehung: Mikl, Vanessa Peterson, Neil Monteith (pitch 1 & 3), 2012 | 21 | 65m, 3 |
1.2.3. Theory of Negativity Wall 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -33.736960, 150.338107
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Pink Falloyd (Project)
Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires. Erschliesser: macciza macpherson, 2012 | 15m | ||||||
2 |
★ Lead Zepplin
Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs. Start: Marked LZ
| 17 | 90m, 3 | |||||
3 |
★ The Draw Thief
Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall. Erste freie Begeh.: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2010 | 22 | 20m, 11 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Theory of Negativity
Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 20 | 22m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ The Cramps
Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit. Erstbegehung: N Monteith, 2009 | 23 | 22m, 10 | |||||
6 |
★★ Missing Link (Link-Up)
Links the low crux section of The Cramps into the crux section of On the Wagon via the short, closed flake. Good value! This link-up was done as follows, without any new rings: Start as for The Cramps and continue up to clip its 4th ring with a long draw. Step up and left to layaway off flake, reaching left to clip the 3rd ring of On the Wagon (OTW). Climb to the top of the flake to clip the 4th ring of OTW, then reach down and unclip 3rd ring of OTW to prevent rope drag. Continue up OTW to its anchors. Erstbegehung: A. Simson & M. Franklin, 2019 | 23 | 22m | |||||
7 |
★ On the Wagon
Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 23 | 22m | |||||
8 |
Grains of Sand
Marked GR | 17 | ||||||
9 |
Levitation Chimney
They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle. "Filthy. A vertical bushwalk. Take a trowel." [JME] Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.
Erstbegehung: Cooke & Cunningham, 1958 | 9 | 80m, 5 | |||||
10 |
Kedumba Gambit
A big black juggy old school slab. Start:On corner at left of black wall with carved KG initials, shared with The Belfry.
| 8 | 70m, 3 | |||||
11 |
★★★ The Belfry
Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation from the Rhum Dhu pioneers. Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.
Erstbegehung: K. Cooke, G. Burkinshaw & B. Cunningham, 1958 | 12 | 70m, 7 |
1.2.4. Iliad Buttress 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -33.736766, 150.337987
Beschreibung
50m left of Theory of Negativity Wall is a hanging orange arete visible high above the trees. There is a recessed twin corner crack leading up to it. This is Cynics United. Above and left of this arete is the main Iliad Buttress, somewhat hidden from below.
Abstieg
All these routes top-out onto tree belays. Scramble up and right to reach the tourist lookout and track to exit.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Cynics United
Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.
Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith (led all pitches), Jason Lammers & Chris Coghill, 2012 | 24 | 82m, 5 | |||||
2 |
I Don't Climb Wigglies
Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012 | 21 | 17m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ The Cynical Cypriot
Rad independent corner with a beautiful roof crux. Starts from the same ledge as the Trojan. Either finish up the Iliad or rap Cynics United with two ropes. Think twice about what's actually attached on the top out. Erste freie Begeh.: Anton Korsun & Zac Lazatin, 7 Sep 2021 | 21 | 30m | |||||
4 |
★★ The Iliad
A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantastic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams (or a rack of hexes and some gear placing nous) as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave. The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.
To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge. Erste freie Begeh.: J Ewbank, 1968 | 16 | 87m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Trojan (The Illiad Pitch 2 Variant)
Desperate, strenuous and with very small gear (1 x BD #1, 1 x BD #2, 1 x BD C3 #1, 1 x BD C3 #2, Double rack of wires + gear for the top half of The Illiad P2). From the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of The Illiad, climb the tips crack around the corner to the right, and join The Illiad Pitch 2 at the rooflet crack before the final slab. Continue to belay as for the rest of Pitch 2 of The Illiad. Erstbegehung: Paul Thomson, 2013 | 23 | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Odyssey Walls
Start: Crack in middle of wall, left of 'The Iliad' and right of Constipation Chimney.
4.+30m? (-) Traverse left and finish 'Constipation Chimney' or as you wish. Erstbegehung: Chris Regan & Bob Ryan, 1963 | 14 | 100m, 4 | |||||
7 |
★ Constipation Chimney
A major old-school line of little modern merit. Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.
Erstbegehung: Rhum Du climbers Erste freie Begeh.: D Tanner, 1964 | 12 | 110m, 7 |
1.2.5. Binary Cave 34 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.736309, 150.337790
Beschreibung
A popular all-weather sport crag, with a couple of hairy trad cracks as well. This 50m wide section of orange wall extends left from Constipation Chimney and is protected from heavy rain by a vast roof 30m above the deck. The base is totally dry for 5m out from the cliff, is fairly flat and is a great place to hang out when the weather turns nasty (most routes were established during the wettest summer in memory!). There are currently more than 15 sport routes, and several rarely repeated old school steep trad lines. Most routes are 20-25m single pitches which end at anchors just below a large shale ledge. There are a couple of ancient aid routes which continue through the roofs (future free trad potential?). Bring a rope mat as the base of the crag is dirty. Stick-clips are useful.
Zustieg
Walk left from Theory of Negativity Wall for about 100m to arrive at grid-bolted steep wall with an eroded base. You can't miss it. It takes about 15 minutes from the carpark.
Abstieg
All of the sport routes have lower-offs - but if you top-out onto the shale ledge on one of the trad routes there are several rap anchors on the ledge - including one above Constipation Chimney, and another above Hells Bells.
Geschichte
The first routes established here would have been Constipation Chimney by members of the Rhum Du in the late '50s then rediscovered by the S.R.C. in '64. The first lines in the 'cave' were the aid lines through both tiers of the roofs climbed by Ewbank/Pickard, starting with Thumbs Down 13 M4 in 1967 (now ~23).
Activity ceased for almost half a century before the sport bolters discovered the area was dry in any weather. In the space of three years more than 15 sport routes were established, and several new trad cracks were also climbed. All of Ewbank's aid routes on the lower half of the crag were also free-climbed by Macca and Monty.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start
A nice easy trad corner on the right side of the Binary Cave. Marked CCVS. There are now rap anchors added at the top of the first pitch. Be careful of some loose rock at the top. | 12 | 19m | |||||
2 |
★★ Birthday Bolts
A great wet weather protected slab climb! The right most bolted line on the wall. Start either via first few metres of the trad corner Constipation Chimney VS or boulder the start direct (grade 21?). A couple of clips are tricky if you are short. The bolts were a birthday gift from Vanessa and Ryan. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 19 | 20m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
Technical wall climbing up some great orange rock. Share the first three bolts of Birthday Bolts then take the left line direct up the steeper face. This was the first of the modern sport routes established in the Binary Cave, and kicked off Neil's tradition to establish a new route at this crag on every birthday. 3 years running so far. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 21 | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Flash Flood
Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow, that is now a touch harder since a key hold fell off. The start of this route is shared with the next three routes as well. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 21 | 18m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★ Stereo
A bit squeezed in but has some great sustained climbing. Same start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then take the next line of bolts to the left. Easily to small cave then punch out a committing move above it. Nice climbing to the top, staying just left of arête. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers & Dan Mackey, 2012 | 22 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★ Thai Virus
Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts. Erste freie Begeh.: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 22 | 25m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★★ La Niña
Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 22 | 25m, 10 | |||||
8 |
★ A Nice Day for a Disco
This is not a full route, but confusingly an optional harder start to the previous couple of routes. Starts 2m left of Flash Flood at right side of overhung/cave. There is a hard/awkward move at the 3rd bolt before it links into the other routes. Direct start links into LN, TV, S, or FF. 25m indicated height includes these 4 routes. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 23 | 25m, 3 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Torrential
Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Starts 6m left of Flash Flood. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to topout onto shale ledge and single ubolt + trad belay. Long draws useful to avoid rope drag. Erstbegehung: Rich Sonnerdale & Neil Monteith, 2010 | 20 | 25m | |||||
10 |
★ Middle Finger
Proof no-one climbs trad anymore. Climb Torrential for 12m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot with long sling then committing traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock to bolt belay on shale ledge. Double ropes or long slings make rope drag much more pleasant. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale, 2010 | 21 | 25m | |||||
11 |
★★ Driven
Some funky moves and a great example of Bundy's creative vision to squeeze in another route! Up groove behind small tree. Swing through the roof and onto the face. Left, up and then back to the right crossing Middle Finger and on to orange headwall. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 24 | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★ Taxi Driver
Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 25 | 20m, 9 | |||||
13 |
★★ Swinging In The Rain
Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag. Erste freie Begeh.: Ben JengA, 2012 | 25 | 20m, 13 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Windtalker
As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall. Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 25 | 20m, 12 | |||||
15 |
★ Thumbs Up
An exciting steep trad line that doesn't see much love. The first pitch has been freed recently, but the upper pitches probably haven't seen a repeat in decades. For the first pitch bring a full rack including micro cams and several long slings. Start at crackline through steep wall 3m left of Swinging in the Rain.
Erstbegehung: John Ewbank, 1967 Erste freie Begeh.: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale (pitch 1 only), 2010 | 24 M4 | 92m, 3 | |||||
16 |
★ Digitalicious
Has a reputation for being tough for the grade and having a tricky pocket sequence. Starts just left of Thumbs Up. Boulder though a couple of roofs to an easy head wall. Erste freie Begeh.: Ben JengA, 2012 | 25 | 20m, 12 | |||||
17 |
★★ Binary Neil
Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, Chris Coghill, Steve G, Rich Sonnerdale & Will Monks, 2012 | 25 | 25m, 10 | |||||
18 |
★★ Chalk Chops
Whilst Bundy and Macca pissed around on their sport/trad project over several years Steve noticed the chalk Macca had left from trying the direct start and managed to bolt send this harder version in one weekend. It's the route between Binary Neil and Thumbs Out. Looks as though it has a couple of impassable blank sections, but some focussed oomph will see you through, provided you have average or better wingspan. Very good climbing which deserves more attention. Erstbegehung: Steve Grkovic, Jun 2014 | 27 | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
★★ Thumbs Out / Truth Lies Somewhere Inbetween
The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began. Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint). Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top... Erstbegehung: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2012 Erste freie Begeh.: Paul Frothy Thomson, Will Vidler, Stephen Varney & Jared Anderson, 26 Jan 2021 | 26 R | 23m | |||||
20 |
★ Survival Day
Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23, especially if you are tall. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 24 | 20m, 10 | |||||
21 |
★ Thumbs Down
Another old aid route through a big ceiling that has now been partially freed.
Erstbegehung: John Ewbank, 1967 Erste freie Begeh.: Macciza (pitch 1), 2012 | 23 M2 | 78m, 4 | |||||
22 |
★ Socially Inept
First of the short sport routes just left of Thumbs Down. Nice wall to start then thin crimpy finish with a tricky to clip last bolt. Convince someone else to put the draws on first! Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2012 | 21 | 12m, 4 | |||||
23 |
★ Please Dry
Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
24 |
★ Whimsical
The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 21 | 12m, 6 | |||||
25 |
★ Rock Snob
Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2013 Erschliesser: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 20 | 12m, 4 | |||||
26 |
★ Thunderstruck
2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.
Erstbegehung: Chris Coghill & Will Monks, 2012 | 25 | 45m, 2, 17 | |||||
27 |
★★ Hells Bells
Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.
Erstbegehung: J Davis & B Smith, 1964 | 16 | 63m, 5 | |||||
Upper BinaryThe big roofs on the terrace above the main routes in the cave. Short, steep and powerful! Be extremely mindful of knocking rocks from the belay ledge onto climbers below when attempting routes in this area. Also there's still more coming off the routes, so give your belayer a long tether so they can take evasive action, and notify anyone below. | ||||||||
The next 3 routes are to the right of Thumbs Up Crack, and can be accessed by climbing any route from Driven to Constipation Chimney Variant Start. The best picks are either Constipation Chimney Variant Start, Birthday Bolts, Thirty Three Years or Driven, as there are anchors on the ledge immediately above these routes. | ||||||||
30 |
★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing
The rightmost route on the ledge, starting at the first double bolt anchor, 3m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle onto ledge, then hard moves up flake to juggy steep climbing. Craft whatever rest you can, because the crux is clipping the anchors (though with a bit of funkiness, it can be made easier). Resist the temptation to put a giant draw on the anchor, and step up to the challenge to earn the grade! Erste freie Begeh.: Paul Frothy Thomson, 1 Aug 2022 | 24 | 12m, 7 | |||||
31 |
★ Juice on the Loose
A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move. The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale. Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean. Erste freie Begeh.: Paul Frothy Thomson & Glen Thomson, 25 Mai 2022 | 25 | 12m, 9 | |||||
32 |
★★ The Kangaroolity of Women
"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds) Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean. Erste freie Begeh.: Paul Frothy Thomson, Matt King, Will Vidler, Heath Black, David Dearnley & Gavin, 1 Jun 2022 | 26 | 15m, 11 | |||||
33 |
★ Is it About a Bicycle?
Short, but hilarious steep jugging up an overhanging prow. Shares the first 5 bolts with the Project to the right, before breaking hard left. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean. Erste freie Begeh.: Paul Frothy Thomson, Will Vidler, Michael Moore & Jared Anderson, 18 Mai 2022 | 24 | 10m, 9 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The next 2 routes routes are to the left of Thumbs Up crack, and can be accessed by climbing any route from Digitalicious to Survival Day. Alternatively, climb any of routes further right, and do a roped traverse along the ledge over to the anchors below Armistice. | ||||||||
35 |
★★ Armistice Direct
Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump. Erschliesser: Neil Monteith, 2013 Erste freie Begeh.: Lee Cujes, 28 Mär 2016 | 27 | 15m, 6 | |||||
36 |
★★★ Armistice
The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump. Erschliesser: Neil Monteith, 2013 Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Paul Thompson, 2013 | 25 | 14m, 6 | |||||
The Standalone ButtressBack at ground level. The region beyond the main cave cliffline. Currently host to only one route. | ||||||||
38 |
★ Entourage / Bully Boys Buttress Crack
Both Jason and Macca eyed this line off, nether realizing the other wanted the first ascent. Jason got in first, bolting and climbing it, then Macca did the same route on trad and called it a different name. Confused? Everyone is! The route is the crack on the buttress 2m left of Hells Bells and currently also has ringbolts - although the first has been chopped. Erstbegehung: Macciza (on trad), 2013 Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson, Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 22 | 16m |
1.2.6. Ben Trovato Wall 37 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -33.735159, 150.337308
Beschreibung
This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.
Zustieg
From the shale ledge track beneath the wall, scramble up the steep vegetated hillside, starting below the big arete (The Swiss Route) and trending left and up metal rungs and fixed ropes. Alternatively you can rap access the crag from above (8 minutes from the carpark) if you know where you are going, have a 100m rope, and enjoy insanely exposed free hanging abseils!
Abstieg
Most of the newer routes have bolted lower-off anchors. For the multipitch routes which top out, it's a very short walk back to the car. Scramble up the hillside for 50m to small cliffline, walk right 30-80m along the base past a little cave then up a short section of fixed rope to arrive at a tourist track. Walk right along this track for 100m back to the carpark.
Geschichte
Originally known as the Great Red Wall from Rock-Climbs of NSW - S.R.C. Guidebook, 1963. Giles Bradbury added one route and one project in the 80s. The upper pitch of Marxism was done in the 2000s but it wasn't until the 2010s that the majority of the sport routes were established.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Right WallThe north-west facing right side of Ben Trovato Wall. The bottom half is gritty black rock - but the quality significantly improves in the top half. This wall starts getting sun from about 11am. | ||||||||
2 |
★ The Swiss Route
The major exposed black arete on the right side of Ben Trovato Wall. The line looks appealing, but even with considerable recent retrobolting (with permission from first ascentist) this route is still a bold and loose proposition. To do this all on trad like the original rock warriors would be quite the head trip. Wear helmets and take a double rack of cams from finger to fist size to supplement the ringbolts. Leave your bumbly partner at home.
This route originally traversed in from Colosseum Corner, possibly along the line now bolted as pitch one of Sublime & the Ridiculous, or along a lower break starting at Golden Giles. The exact way has been lost to antiquity. The described first pitch linking into the lower section of the arete direct was added by Monteith in 2010. The rest was retrobolted in early 2017. Erstbegehung: Hoffsterrer Bros John Smoothy 1980s | 19 | 88m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★ Golden Giles
Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing. Start 6-8m right of Colosseum Corner, slightly down the hill at belay bolt.
| 24 | 70m, 3, 21 | |||||
4 |
★★ The Sublime and the Beautiful
Warnung Fels: Loose flake on P2 Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Golden Giles to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route. A 70m rope will get you down in two rappels (using the Golden Giles pitch 1 anchor).
Erstbegehung: Bundy, Frogman & Mr Tonsai, 2009 | 22 | 75m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ San Pornando
Long sustained face climbing just right of Colosseum Corner on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Can lower off with a 70m (leader may have to downclimb 1m), otherwise re-thread half way down or use double ropes. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2009 | 24 | 38m, 16 | |||||
Main WallThe epic orange face covered in bolts with a major corner on the right side (Colosseum Corner) and a fixed rope on the left end leading up short corner to the Far left Ledge. There are many routes on this wall, and confusingly some of them cross each other or have extensions or linkups. | ||||||||
7 |
★★ Colosseum Corner
Australia's first grade 19! The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.
Erste freie Begeh.: John Ewbank & John Davis, 1965 | 19 | 78m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Ben Trovato / Bentrovarto
"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier. The pitches are difficult to accurately and independently describe because of the way this route has been retrobolted by the other multis on the wall. The feature is very obvious and the line easy to follow so just belay where is comfortable and makes sense. The only tricky bit of route finding is at the end when you go round the corner on the left side of the main face into the gully and then across it, but as long as you remember to do that you should find the belay okay. From here it is a bit of a no gear choose your own adventure situation to the top.
Erstbegehung: Bryden Allen † & P Messenbergh, 1964 | 20 | 150m, 7, 3 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Guillotine
The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall, and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned. Starts 4m left of Ben Trovato at small tree.
Erstbegehung: Heath Black, 2010 Erstbegehung: P1 Neil Monteith & P2 Chris Coghill, 2010 | 24 | 48m, 2, 23 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Marxism
Warnung Fels: Fragile rock Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread). Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.
Erschliesser: Mark Baker (pitch 2 & 3) Erstbegehung: Phil Sage (pitch 2 & 3 in one big pitch), 2002 Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith (P1 via tree start), 2010 Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith (via Vespasian Wall start), 2023 | 28 | 62m, 3, 22 | |||||
11 |
★★ Fashionista
Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top. Erstbegehung: Steve Grkovic | 28 | 30m, 18 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Vespasian's Wall
Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.
The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there. Erstbegehung: Will Monks Erstbegehung: John Ewbank & Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, 1964 Erste freie Begeh.: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011 | 25 | 58m, 2, 20 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Vespasian's Wall (Pitch 1 only)
Erste freie Begeh.: Heath Black, 2011 | 25 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★ The Young Violent Pony
Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. A bit of an ugly duckling for the first couple of bolts - then greatly improves on sharp edges and flakes. Feet are often very minimal. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up Kizashi to it's lower anchor. Starts 5m L of VW. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 24 | 25m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★★ The Old Sleepy Horse
The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off. Erschliesser: Neil Monteith, 2009 Erstbegehung: Steve Grokovic, Jun 2014 | 28 | 26m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Kizashi
Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29). Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 25 | 20m, 12 | |||||
17 |
★★ Kizashi Extension
Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.) Erschliesser: Neil Monteith, 2009 Erstbegehung: Steve Grkovic, Jun 2014 | 29 | 27m | |||||
18 |
★★ The Face Race
A long second pitch above Kizashi Extension - starting on the halfway ledge, 2m right of the vertical corner pitch of Ben Trovato (in the centre of the wall). Can be approached by climbing pitch 1 of Guillotine, Marxism or Vespasian's then traverse left along ledge to double bolt belay. The route climbs a long sustained face with a slight left trend - to eventually join into the finish of Sadomastication Pitch 3 for the last couple of bolts. Use a long sling on the first 'shared' bolt to avoid rope drag. Erstbegehung: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 30 Okt 2016 | 24 | 32m, 16 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Kizmastication (linkup)
Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 26 | 27m, 13 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Sadomastication
Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!
Erschliesser: Heath Black Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Paul Frothy Thomson, 2012 | 26 | 67m, 3 | |||||
21 |
★★ Reigning Steel
Shorter and less sustained than other routes on this section of wall. Step left off block and up face between Sadomastication and Microdermabrasia to premature low anchors. The bolted extension to the ledge is grade 25. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2012 | 23 | 17m, 7 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Reigning Steel Extension
The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2014 | 25 | 27m, 13 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Zoncolan
Warnung Fels: Broken Hold Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve. Erstbegehung: Steve Grkovic, 2014 | 28 | 25m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia
One of the most obvious 'lines' on this wall and the first route bolted by Monty in the Ben Trovato Renaissance period. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.
Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith (p1, p3), Lucy Ellis (p2) & Adam Demmert, 2009 | 25 | 85m, 3 | |||||
25 |
Poggio
Start 2m left of Microdermabrasia. Up face for a several metres, then left to big flake feature then back right and up to join Microdermabrasia about halfway up the wall. Finish as for that route. Erschliesser: Megan Turnbull, 7 Mai 2016 | 26 | 25m | |||||
26 |
★★ Gavia
Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile. Erstbegehung: Steve Grkovic & Megan Turnbull, 2014 | 25 | 20m | |||||
27 |
★★ Stevia (Linkup)
Turns Stelvio into a more moderate super-sustained route by avoiding the top crux. Makes a good warmup for the true Stelvio. Climb Stelvio to its 3rd last bolt, then truck right and finish up the top crux of Gavia. Stay off Exile P2's holds for the true finish. | 26 | 25m | |||||
28 |
★★ Stelvio
RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high. Erstbegehung: Steve Grkovic, 2014 | 29 | 25m | |||||
29 |
★ Exile
A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.
Erschliesser: Jason Lammers, 2012 Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers (pitches 1, 4), Neil Monteith (pitches 2 & 3), 2012 | 23 | 85m, 5 | |||||
Low WallThe next three routes start BELOW the main Ben Trovato wall, on the main path to Sweet Dreams just before the metal cable traverse. The bolted arete is obvious, and the other two trad routes start just right of this. | ||||||||
31 |
Electra
Some good pitches if the greenery gets cleared. Start: This route actually starts back down on the access track to 'Sweet Dreams' (20m below 'Ben Trovato' Wall). Starts about 10m right of the cable traverse to 'Sweet Dreams' at vegetated corner.
| 17 | 130m, 5 | |||||
32 |
Oedipus
Wanders all over the place!
Erstbegehung: Bryden Allen † & Martin Hader, 1964 | 14 | 190m, 6 | |||||
33 |
★★ Milestone Arete
Right facing arête above the right end of the cable traverse to Sweet Dreams (directly below Cloudheat - see topo) Climb the left side of arete, then switch to right side for techy finish. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2013 | 23 | 14m, 7 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Far Left LedgeFor the next routes scramble up the 5m corner with short fixed rope on the far left end of Ben Trovato Wall (left of Exile) to higher ledge with a couple of small trees. Take care wandering around on this narrow ledge - a slip is fatal. Also be careful lowering people off these routes - the left routes are 30m high - with a 100m drop underneath them! | ||||||||
35 |
★★ The Road Not Taken
Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible. Erstbegehung: Paul Thomson, 5 Nov 2014 | 26 | 18m, 8 | |||||
36 |
★ S for Stile
Orange thin face right of the central scoop feature. Finishes when the rock goes black and crap. Erstbegehung: Steve Grokovic, Mai 2016 | 29 | 18m | |||||
37 |
Cipressa
Crimpy direct line to scoops then up the scoopy bit clipping bolts to the right then finish right into top of S for Stile. Erstbegehung: Megan Turnbull, 2016 | 23 | 18m | |||||
38 |
★ Cloudheat
A good little warm-up - but a little sharp. In the middle of the orange wall is a line of scoops that doesn't quite make it to the ground. Start about 4m to the left of these scoops. Now trend right to the scoops and up them to first set of lower-offs. Erschliesser: Chris Coghill, 2009 Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 22 | 12m, 5 | |||||
39 |
★★ Cloudheat Extension
Nail hard extension above the scoop feature. A lot of the bolts are hard to clip until at your waist. Finishes at same set of high anchors at Climbalot. Erstbegehung: Steve Grokovic, 7 Mai 2016 | 29 | 27m | |||||
40 |
★★ Climbalot
Pumpy and long. Starts 3m right of the leaning steep corner on the terrace, at low FH for belay. Nice orange wall for 3 RBs to huge dyno move, then a couple of long moves until a move left into the corner for a couple of metres. Finish right out under bulge and up orange wall. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2014 | 24 | 27m, 11 | |||||
41 |
★★ Weakend Worrier
Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 25 | 30m, 12 |
1.2.7. Sweet Dreams Walls 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.734349, 150.337041
Beschreibung
This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Sweet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early. Helmets are advised due to potential rockfall from climbers above. A tragic fatality from rockfall in 2022 is reminder to take care in such an outdoor environment. The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!
Zustieg
After descending the ridge (info one level up) continue along the base of the cliff past the Binary Cave and Bentrovarto Wall to reach a fixed 'via ferrata' cable leading a across an exposed rock traverse. Clip in to the cable with a long sling and hand traverse across to safety. Don't solo it! The drop is epic and the rock quality is terrible. On the other side of the cable walk down and across another 20m to find Saccharine Nightmare and Sweet Dreams.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ The Sweetest Dream
A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching an itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay. Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so as to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go anywhere from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'. | 24 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Saccharine Nightmare
A multi-pitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.
Erste freie Begeh.: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers & Adam Demmert, 2012 | 22 | 100m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Hyperglycemic Hallucination
Start as for Saccharine Nightmare. Can be strung together as an epic single pitch with loads of rope drag.
Continue to top on Saccharine Nightmare, or rap off (two ropes required). Be careful of falling into trees down low, particularly for seconds. Erstbegehung: Dave Hughes & Al Bradley, 22 Feb 2018 | 20 | 60m, 2, 18 | |||||
4 |
★ Narcolepsy
A direct start and variant finish to Sweet Dreams. | 17 | 100m, 3, 11 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it. Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock. This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare. Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent. The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality). Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.
The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website. The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below. Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15. Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams. Erstbegehung: T. Batty & Bryden Allen †, 1963 | 14 | 130m, 6, 20 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up)
A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.
| 17 | 130m, 5, 12 | |||||
7 |
★★ Sweet Dreams Left Variant
From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams take the left line of ringbolts up the blunt arete - either finish direct up the corner (trad) or traverse left at 15m into top pitch of Saccharine Nightmare (bolts).
| 17 | 120m, 6, 12 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams Middle Variant
From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams climb the ringbolted face just left of the corner. At 15m this joins into top corner finish of Sweet Dreams (trad required). | 17 | 120m, 5, 12 | |||||
9 |
Sweet Dreams Original Finish
Warnung Fels: Loose rock on belay ledge and top pitch - avoid this variant. The original way this route was done in 1963 - but now not recommended due to rockfall risk on parties below.
Erstbegehung: T Batty & Brydan Allen, 1963 | 14 | 30m, 2 | |||||
10 |
★ Dreams Are Free
Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'. | 20 | 25m, 2 | |||||
11 |
Jude Food
Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB. Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free. | 20 | 25m, 3 | |||||
12 |
Rapid Eye Movement
Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem. Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'. | 18 | 25m, 1 | |||||
13 |
★★ Knight's Mare
A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.
Erstbegehung: D. tanner & C. Regan, 1963 | 16 | 130m, 5, 2 | |||||
14 |
★★ Smack My Pitch Up
Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.
Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins). Erstbegehung: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010 | 21 | 120m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★★★ Whymper
Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off. Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.
Erstbegehung: J. Anderson, M. Law & V. Peterson, 2009 | 19 | 150m, 5 | |||||
Old school chunder and massive runouts from hereon ... |
1.2.8. Northern Walls 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.732314, 150.336730
Beschreibung
The cliffs north of Whymper.
Zustieg
Continue walking past Whymper - World of Wander is about 300m north.
Abstieg
All routes top out and walk out via tourist track running along the top.
Geschichte
Many old routes and one new route.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
Gladiator
Start: Scramble up and left 60m from Knights Mare. | 16 | 60m, 2 | |||
2 |
Medusa
Start: On wall, just right of "Achilles Crack".
5-7) Up slightly right to ledge and rotten buttress above to top. Erstbegehung: T. Batty & R. Ryan, 1963 | 11 | 140m | |||
3 |
Achilles Crack
"A good climb up a steep direct line." [JME] Start: 300m left of landslide at crack running right to the top of a broken black wall.
Erstbegehung: P. Draffin, D. Tanner, C. Regan & K. Horn, 1963 | 12 | 130m | |||
4 |
Perseus
"A one pitch climb and that could probably be avoided." [JME] Start: To left of "Achilles Crack"
Erstbegehung: Bryden Allen † & T. Batty, 1963 | 11 | 120m | |||
5 |
★ World of Wander
Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes (300m) left of Whymper. After you drop down into a 3rd red shale cave, the route starts 30m further on, at the base of an undercut buttress, marked by a cairn. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).
Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark. Erstbegehung: Eugene Mak, Jeff Crass & Mikl Law, 2021 | 20 | 110m, 4 | |||
6 |
Garbage Gully
"Garbage Gully is the gully between Apollo to the left and "Knight's Mare" to the right." [JME] (Or it was in 1967 - Ed.) Start: 3-400 yds left of "Achilles Crack"
Erstbegehung: D. Tanner & B. Ryan, 1963 | 6 | 90m | |||
7 |
Apollo
"One of the longest climbs on the cliff, and undoubtedly the most rotten. Absolutely appalling. A masterpiece of decaying chunder, mank and rubbish." [JME] Start: At a creek, normally with water flowing. A huge black wall to the left.
5-7) Minor improvements to top Erstbegehung: B. Ryan & T. Westren, 1964 | 9 | 150m | |||
8 |
Andronicus Walls
"A great climb, one of the best on the cliff. Exposed and sustained wall climbing. Bloody good. Excellent rock." [JME] Start: The climb takes a line up the great black wall left of the creek where Apollo starts. Scramble up 30m from left to scrubby ledge.
Erstbegehung: Bryden Allen † & T. Batty, 1963 | 15 | 110m |
1.3. Lower Cliff 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.737024, 150.337434
Beschreibung
Very very rarely visited cliffline below the Main Middle Cliffs. Home to a few old trad routes. The base of this cliff is steep and rocky, making getting around tricky.
Abstieg
Where the descent track reaches the Main Middle Cliffs keep going straight down on a rough bushwalkers track (it may be marked). It's only another 5 minutes further down.
1.3.1. Subjacent 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.738806, 150.337995
Beschreibung
Latin for "situated below something else", originally named "Arunga" in the Ewbank update, this 60m high cliffline is located below and south of the "West Face (Main Area)" of Sublime Point. It is very rarely visited.
Zustieg
North (left) end
Descend the usual track to the main wall of Sublime Point (the Middle Cliffs). Below Choc Chip Chai, follow a faint/rough track steeply downwards for about 150m until the track veers right at top of cliffline. Instead of going right, bush bash left (south) for about 50m to base of crag.
Right (south) end
This is best accessed by descending Copeland Pass where is splits off south from the climbers access track, and following it down the ridge.
Abstieg
The bottom of the crag is steep and vegetated in places, a bit tricky to walk around, and hard to view the climbs above. There is also yet another lower cliff separated by a vegetated slope below.
Geschichte
About 10 routes were done here in the mid 60s by Ted Batty and Bob Ryan. These are now largely historical and will not provide the modern climber with much interest, even if they can be found.
There is also some evidence of activity in the late 70s and 80s, plus a few recent sport routes. There are three giant carrots with home made hangers on the lower section of the wall right of Reality Check. Mikl and Giles deny it was them.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Upper RoutesThe first couple of routes start on a higher terrace, and climb the orange north facing wall left of the prominent arete bordering the left side of the cliff. Approach by leaving the scramble down track just after a 8m cliffete appears on the left of the track. There is a well cut track to the base. If you are thrashing around in spiky trees you are not on the track. It's less than 5 minutes walk from Choc Chip Chai. Sun after 11am. | ||||||||
2 |
The Leftovers
2nd line of ringbolts left of the major arete. Up easy mega flake to start then long wall with crimpy reachy crux. Run it out on fragile jugs to high anchor. Erstbegehung: Heath Black, 7 Mai 2016 | 23 | 20m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Guilty Remnant
This prominent arete beckons from above and below. Start on left side of arete on orange face. Trend right and up face to reach arete about half way up wall. Finish up jugs to high anchor. Erschliesser: Heath Black, 3 Apr 2016 Erstbegehung: Heath Black & Rob Medlicott, 7 Mai 2016 | 19 | 24m, 9 | |||||
4 |
Subdolate
Start: About 10m scramble below Guilty Remnant at a traverse line clearly marked S-D.
Erstbegehung: B. Ryan & T. Batty, 1967 | 13 | 70m | |||||
Lower RoutesThe next routes start right of the major arete, and lower down. There is an access track cut which leaves the scramble down just after it goes down a short rocky slot (about 30m below the access to the previous routes) | ||||||||
6 |
Burp
Original description below Varied climbing and short pitches. The climb goes up the end cliff line. Scramble down to red ledge. Continue down through scrub and gully to a scrubby ledge. Along this for about 100 yds around buttress to below big corner. Scramble to it and tree anchor.
Erstbegehung: J. Davis, N. Rees, J. Law & B. Postill, 1966 | 9 | 65m | |||||
7 |
Slurp
Quite a fine short climb. Start: Directly above the finish of Burp at a direct fierce looking crack.
Erstbegehung: J. Davis, N. Rees & J. Law, 1966 | 10 | 30m | |||||
8 |
Subterranean
Start: Unknown "at middle of cliff" at chimney set well back on right side of big scoop.
Erstbegehung: T. Batty, K. Westren & B. Ryan, 1967 | 10 | 83m, 4 | |||||
9 |
Sublimation
Start: 22m right of Subterranean, "at small cairn".
Erstbegehung: K. Westren, M. Hailstone, R. Ryan & T. Rodgers, 1965 | 9 | 46m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★★ Gormenghast / Titus Groan
Landmark orange off-width corner in centre of crag. Stem baby stem (no thrutching required). Protected by a heady mix of bolts and trad. Bring cams between #0.25 Camalot to the biggest you can find, and some slings. Save a 0.75 green Camalot for the exciting very last move over the rooflet. Double rap rings at top - lowering off is possible. This route was originally climbed using homemade tubes in the heady days of the 70s. The direct finish over the rooflet was done in 2014. Erstbegehung: Greg Child & Chris Piesker, 1976 Erste freie Begeh.: Heath Black, 2014 | 20 | 28m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Reality Check
Thin face on the wall right of Gormenghast. Finish up right arete to lower-off. Three carrots with home made hangers at 1m intervals heading to the arete share the same start. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 7 Jun 2014 | 23 | 20m, 8 | |||||
12 |
Substitution
Start: Just left of Subterfuge Direct on the right of a gully.
Erstbegehung: B. Ryan & T. Batty, 1967 | 13 | 34m | |||||
13 |
Subterfuge Direct
Start: Below the "interesting looking" crack-cum-corner 100m from the southern extremity of the cliffline. An ancient carrot is visible on the wall at the top of a 10m pillar. Location -33.739221, 150.338145.
Erstbegehung: B. Ryan & W. Crighton, 1967 | 14 | 76m, 1 | |||||
14 |
Conscious
Start: The right hand nose of a scrubby gully to the right of Subterfuge Direct. Climb up 3m to bottom of first pitch.
Erstbegehung: T. Batty & B Ryan, 1967 | 10 | 42m | |||||
15 |
Subconscious
Start: 10m right of Conscious.
Erstbegehung: T. Batty & B Ryan, 1967 | 9 | 42m | |||||
16 |
Submaxilla
A better climb than it looks from below. Location around -33.739955, 150.338314 Start: About 50m from the right end of the cliffline beneath an isolated pinnacle set well back behind scrub.
| 14 | 50m | |||||
17 |
Subtle
Location unknown. | 11 | 45m |