Begehungen in Jessicca's haben Beta

Not really any harder for me. The first move is still the hardest by far. Just a V6 ending instead of V4

First move gave me significant grief, lucky the rest is about V4

Better than it looks and not that dirty

Session 2: First move is absolutely dialled. Worked a lot on making that second move with extra pads to prevent my head rattling around in my noggin' too much. Finding the micro beta to make it consistent was challenging, finding the heel placement, the right toe and latching the hold with hips tucked in the dead space really had me worked. I don't think I can cut on the second move at all due to my height so I'll have to really hit it with precision and tension on the send burns. Slowly but surely the climb is coming together. Next session will probably be dyno focused as it's still very much in my mind and I feel mentally stuck on it even when I visualise the moves. Hopefully with enough throws it will feel second nature.

Session 1: Really have to turn it on for all the moves in this one. The start move was way bigger than it looks on video, but we got it knocked off relatively quick(5 attempts). After that worked the 3rd to 5th move as the landing off the second move was just too rough and I was getting a headache from the impact of slamming the mats every time.

The dyno is probably going to be the hardest move for me, building up the mental game to make that throw off the heel will take some time to commit to, did a few practice jumps off the pads and a few off the heel. But it will definitely be the hardest.

Overall - everything you could want from the first session, moves getting dialled in, micro beta adjustments for the feet - this could well go, eventually.

Flashed the first section then shut down by the reachy move to top out. Definitely the crux.

Second session, cool moves. struggled with the reach to the rail at the top.

First Jug flake thing is suspiciously hollow.

fkd the flash by jamming my fingers too hard on the jug lmao

It's all in the feet with this climb, so good

Interesting moves for start

Fun 5

My first tick of the grade! Probably why I also give it three stars 🙃

Got here today and couldn't even imagine doing the first move. Probably spent an hour trying it in between trying the climb from the first move onwards.

Once the first to second move linked, focused on linking to the third and genuinely believed if I did it, I would send the whole thing.

After my last attempt of the day went well I almost packed it all up. The boys moved on to Midwife Crisis and I was just chilling before the walk out.

One more go ended up going. ✌🏼

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cvdx2jqPSHm/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Great climb, big move to get to the topout but mega jugs once you're there.

Couldn't quite find the right hand placements for the slopers near the end to keep going but enjoyed the big throws and the traverse. I tried this at the end of the session but I feel like this should be the V6 and "Will It Ever End" should be the V5 as this one uses much harder holds but oh well!

Start of the year I was 1 move off, now I can't do the first 3 moves. I have sadly regressed on this climb but I'll come back for it when I can!

Confused about how the V6 with the same start and top runs on the top jug line but the V5 eliminates it for hands and feet 🤔

so good, the mono gaston is too classic

Second time at the crag and got this nice and quick.

Dropped the topout on my first attempt and failed the big move the next couple of times.

Highly advise to practise that top. It's not what I'd call straightforward.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CtspjTGPTm4/?igshid=Y2IzZGU1MTFhOQ==

A long way to go but saw some good progress in the first session - RF hook and LF toe flag/scum seemed to be the key to start.

didn't commit enough to hit the big move from the jug

Flapper

Day flashed, tried 3ish years ago

sick send. Used undercling on the right of flake. Lock off made less reach than pulling in with undercling

large move

Feeling strong! Felt so hard last year

Happy to have gotten all but one move done in a single session! Will hopefully be strong enough next time to send.

Enjoyed the body positioning required for this.

Avoiding the jug and continuing up more direct definitely makes this better and a little more consistent then the non-direct version.

retro tick.

Very satisfying moves

Just missed the flash, toe popped

Wrists finally feels healed enough to do the first moves, went after 5 attempts. Tried the direct, dropped the top twice 😬 will be back!

Matched the top side rail. Didn't finish top without a pad and spotter. Will go next attempt with a bit more safety and security.

Didn’t enjoy the mantle but a decent climb otherwise

There is an art in figuring out all the moves by yourself. Luckily this art form wasn’t present today. Instead, I had beta help from other people. First time at this crag today, it’s a cool little place.

Didn't do the top bit as it started hailing haha

Nicer of the two that start here. Avoided right jugs per old website guide. Kind of an easy version of Great Expectations.

First V8. 6ish goes to stick first move then went to the top. Start sequence is classy with the big move then the bicycle to release the right hand.

Not as nice as no name but at least the top out is a change up 😊.

A good move. 5th go

Second shot

Sick cross

A more sustained version of midwife not too hard for the grade

Dream climb. Took 14 sessions. Powerful moves, 70 degrees overhanging, and a low percentage dyno last move.

Warming up, making sure I can do the top move for Great Expectations

Classy tension moves to start. I can see why people were telling me to jump on this bad boy. Few goes getting used to the moves then went.