Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Do 25. Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Back Wall Area Back Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Heamophillia | 110m | ★ Gut | ||||
|
|||||||
So 21. Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 schwer | ★★ Falls Corner | 70m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
A little bit of everything in an atmospheric position by the waterfall. The short hand crack on pitch two is a highlight. Save a #3 for the run out slab to the top.
Can be a bit tricky finding the rap line, you drop first to a huge sloping ledge, from the bottom right (facing out) of that ledge you'll peer down through the fronds of a bush and spy an alluring - if dank - corner. Down she goes. |
|||||||
Di 16. Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
13 leicht | ★★ Noblesse Oblige | 420m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice cruisey adventure up a big slab. Currently dry, and fairly easy to find and follow.
Handy to have a few mid size cams and hexes, in addition to runners and extra slings. |
|||||||
Fr 5. Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
28 |
Risshandschuh
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- mit
Lee Cujes
1
23
25
Vorstieg durch
Aaron Jones, Lee Cujes
A couple of meters of nice slab climbing before degrading into moist mank.
2
28
52
Vorstieg durch
Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones
The most spectacular, beautiful and intimidating corner soaring up to infinity and beyond. We both sent it first shot on lead, after an hour or so on TR solo the day before. The best beta I've heard for this pitch is "if you find yourself pulling hard, you're not stemming well enough".
3
25
30
This was soaked, we jugged passed it unfortunately.
4
24
35
Vorstieg durch
Aaron Jones
Sketchy stemming for about 5m, then the gear improves and it backs off and becomes more enjoyable to the awkward hanging belay.
5
22
30
Vorstieg durch
Lee Cujes
A stunning, sustained finger sized corner, with the jambs becoming more pleasing the higher one gets. This one combined with the crux pitch must be 2 of the best single pitches of granite in Oz.
6
22
35
Vorstieg durch
Aaron Jones
Old skool grunge involving most sizes of crack. Thoroughly enjoyable...after the event. Watch the drag.
7
19
15
Vorstieg durch
Lee Cujes
Sweet airy traversing, with a spot of tree climbing thrown in for good measure (sorry tree). Glad to have converted to the dark side and donned crack gloves for this one.
8
14
20
Vorstieg durch
Aaron Jones
End rock climbing. Commence canyoning. But how do you get off the ledge?! | 270m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
A long term goal fulfilled '*'. It took many years to gather the grit to commit to this one.
Due to weather we only had 2 and a half days on the route. This reduced the pressure somewhat, because the scale of the thing felt insurmountable. Knowing how my brain works, this is probably is the reason it came together.
|
|||||||
28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- mit
Aaron Jones
2
28
52
Vorstieg durch
Lee Cujes
Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!
3
25
30
Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.
4
24
35
Vorstieg durch
Aaron Jones
Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.
6
22
35
Vorstieg durch
Aaron Jones
Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.
7
19
15
Vorstieg durch
Lee Cujes
Diagonal jamming with no feet. A short pitch but I still ran out of gear.
9
10
25
Vorstieg durch
Lee Cujes
I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes. | 270m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.
|
|||||||
Mo 1. Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side Wilkinson's Lookout | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Silk And Satin - mit brad and Karl | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
So good. It's getting a bit of traffic which is great.
|
|||||||
Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★ Beg, Borrow Or Steal | 60m | ★ Gut | ||||
Great 1st pitch and 2nd is fun too.
|
|||||||
Do 28. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner - mit Jordan | 70m | ★ Gut | ||||
Amazing position and interesting fun well protected climbing (except for the final slab)
|
|||||||
Mi 27. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush | 55m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Gave it a really good brush on the way down. Solo TR lap after that. Amazing pitch
|
|||||||
Mo 25. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
19 | ★ On Remand | 30m, 3 | Durchschnitt | ||||
A bit dirty with lichen
|
|||||||
Mo 25. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
didn't have to dog up the wide crack this time using the flake start / wide crack hybrid approach
|
|||||||
Mo 25. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Wall Of China | |||||||
11 | ★ Mod-Diff | 70m | ★ Gut | ||||
could clean up into a very pleasant route
|
|||||||
Mo 25. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
lay back hard nice and scary to watch lead from Alex
|
|||||||
Mo 25. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
13 |
★★ Noblesse Oblige
1
8
35m
2
8
25m
3
13
40m
sport climbed
4
13
40m
also sport climbed
5
12
45m
6
11
50m
7
10
45m
8
8
40m
9
4
100m
| 420m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
spent more time finding the route than we spent climbing the route soloed harder slabs finding the route than the actual route, great morning route
|
|||||||
So 24. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Body Heat | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Delicious technical slab arete. Only had time for a top-rope, really keen to come back for this, the top was definitely the crux for me, such terrible feet!
|
|||||||
20 | ★★★ Home James | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Great, delicate and engaging climbing, pretty runout where its easier, the crux moves are very well protected.
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Placing gear after Rach's onsight, fun!
|
|||||||
Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - mit Conor White | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
The slab traverse on the second pitch was very thrilling!!!
|
|||||||
Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start | 10m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Repeat, led top pitch this time.
|
|||||||
Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 |
★★★ The Initiation
1
2
3
| 90m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
One of the better multis under 20 ive done, every style of buffalo climbing in one package, damn that flake is good!
|
|||||||
Fr 22. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - mit Conor White | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Fun engaging arete slab! With some spooky feet and positions 👻
|
|||||||
Mi 20. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Fantasies Of Gail | 35m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
One exciting move and its all over. It sure is an exciting move though!
|
|||||||
Sa 16. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Tatra Inn The Tombstones | |||||||
16 | ★ Mako - mit James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 10m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Sharp on the hands. Step left at the end, it is easier and safer this way.
|
|||||||
17 | ★★ Spunky - mit James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 27m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Might have mixed this up with Spooky.
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Spooky - mit James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 27m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice route. Worth going back for and now also retro bolted with new lower off anchors.
|
|||||||
Di 12. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani The Monolith | |||||||
11 ~12 | ★ Erectomy | 16m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
felt extremely difficult and scary without big gear
|
|||||||
Di 12. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
1
2
| 42m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
the initial crack took years of my life, a lot of my dignity and even more of my skin - I will be back
|
|||||||
Di 12. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
13 | ★ Dick Selector | 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
didn't have any gear bigger than a 2 which was an effort
|
|||||||
17 | ★★ Profanities | 45m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
tricky start
|
|||||||
Di 12. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land | 15m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
not brave enough
|
|||||||
Mo 11. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah - mit Sam | 42m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Did the flake start. Committing to get established on the flake but wasn’t expecting to struggle with the crack. Some flared jams, really have no idea what to expect from crack grades
|
|||||||
Mo 11. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Torpedo Rock | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Torpedo Crack - mit Sam | ||||||
Awesome line, steep climbing on sinker jams. Couldn't commit to the top-out without more pads
|
|||||||
So 10. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok | 27m | |||||
good lead by chris
|
|||||||
So 10. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Total Recall | 30m | |||||
its got everything, hands, fingers, fists and choss, what more could you ask for
|
|||||||
So 10. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - mit Sam | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Tricky start followed by extremely flowy easy flake hauling, incredible. Kept forgetting to place gear
|
|||||||
So 10. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
13 |
★★ Noblesse Oblige
- mit
Emma, AAA crew
| 420m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Easy, low-angled slab climbing up mostly clean dykes. Expect runouts up to 25m (ie one bolt per pitch), extremely minimal natural pro. Great exposure and setting! 20 min approach and 3h 10 min leisurely climb.
|
|||||||
So 10. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 schwer | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant - mit Emma | 70m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Awesome jamming on P1. P2 is the money pitch with a great layback but the gear is quite marginal in the top half, and it eventually becomes run out slab climbing where the seam ends. P3 was good but starting to be a bit polished with traffic.
|
|||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush - mit Dan Bodd | 55m | |||||
insane
|
|||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Redbacks - mit Dan Bodd | 25m | |||||
tricky, glad we didnt pull the rope, tough getting my head round granite
|
|||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - mit Sam | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Brilliant, sustained and technical climbing. The runout to the fourth bolt is very spicy
|
|||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - mit brad, Locky | 230m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Another lap on this sweet line. Team of 3 this time. Great birthday lap and got to watch the hang gliders launch with a beer in hand up top. So good.
|
|||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
15 |
★★ The Count of Mounting Crystals
1
2
3
4
| 200m, 10 | |||||
By pitch 3 (9 if you go by the guide book) your definition of what run out is, has truly changed. Pitch 1 (7 in the guide) is awesome. Super enjoyable.
|
|||||||
15 |
★ Good Luck & Good Management 510m 14
1
2
3
Sets the standard for what run out actually is.
4
5
6
| 450m | |||||
Pitch one to six before finishing count of mounting crystals. Definitely a good intro into the world of run out slabs.
|
|||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
14 |
★★ The Pintle
— 4 Versuche
1
2
3
| 70m | |||||
The crux at the start of pitch 2 is ridiculous. Not a chance it’s a 14.
|
|||||||
Fr 8. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
16 |
★★ The Pinch
1
2
2x Merlin 8 minimum needed to protect chimney | 48m, 2 | |||||
The carrot at the start of pitch 2 made me sad. Tried protecting the offwidth/chimney with big bros, they didn’t sit well. I’d try it again with a 2x Merlin size 8s.
|
|||||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
- mit
Emma, Jordon, AAA crew
1
Vorstieg durch
Jordon
2
Vorstieg durch
Riley Bradford
| 42m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Amazing position, exposure and thought-provoking climbing. Fell from top of unprotected slab on top out of P2 about 3m onto the ledge.
|
|||||||
Fr 8. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Icing On The Cake
- mit
Dan Bodd
1
2
| 75m, 9 | |||||
Rapped to the first belay cos we ran out of time, got scared and grabbed the draw once, shoulda tried to stay on cos I got the rest.
|
|||||||
Mo 4. Mär 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner - mit Dan Bodd, Matt Wilson | 70m | |||||
real good, nice lead by matt on the second pitch
|
|||||||
So 25. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- mit
kelly
4
24
35m
5
22
30m
6
22
35m
7
19
15m
8
14
20m
9
10
25m
| 160m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Pitches 4-9. One fall on the corner pitch. Very very stoked. Beautiful, fun, interesting climbing
|
|||||||
Fr 23. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||||
24 | ★★ Parallax | 10m | |||||
Aided up to setup top rope anchor. Easy jams to half way then gets hard with thin hands and finger locks on steep sharp rock. Final climb of the trip so super stoked to get it clean on top rope.
|
|||||||
Do 22. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Commander Cody - mit Haily, Karina | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Had to come back to give this another shot. Easy access to a ripper of a climb. Second favourite of the trip.
|
|||||||
Do 22. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
16 | ★★ Crack Of Pleasure - mit Haily, Karina | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Looks a bit dirty but climbs nicely. Really enjoyed the jamming on this.
|
|||||||
Mi 21. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau Kokomo Outcrop | |||||||
18 | Le Souef's Up - mit Chris | 15m, 3 | |||||
Good climb. Few medium cams in crack then slab past 3 FH and BR to top. Has rap anchors.
|
|||||||
Mi 21. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Commander Cody - mit Chris | 30m | |||||
Beautiful line with great gear throughout
|
|||||||
18 schwer | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct - mit Chris | 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
P1 - slabby crack with beautiful jams leads to an awesome trench belay! P2 - tried to go up the corner at first bolt and came off. Next time will traverse onto face slab lower. Very fun climb.
|
|||||||
Di 20. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||||
22 M1 | ★★★ Hard Rain - mit Karina | 120m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Amazing climb. Was fighting hard for P1 and got to the water streak but pumped out. Definitely keen to give it another shot on a future trip.
|
|||||||
Di 20. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Edge Of Pleasure - mit danny | 80m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
P.1 seemed harder than p.2.
|
|||||||
23 | ★★★ The Dreaming - mit danny | 90m | |||||
Bolts seemed to be where you need them, however they are still to spaced for me
|
|||||||
Mo 19. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
20 leicht | ★★★ Home James - mit Karina | 30m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Very cool and unique rock formations. Easy access, shade in the arvo and fun climbing.
|
|||||||
Mo 19. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Dreaming - mit Karina | 90m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Picturesque line with amazing slabbing on good quality clean rock. Heady lead with some spaced BR/FH's and a big runout to the anchors. Led both pitches. This was my highlight for the week.
|
|||||||
So 18. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament - mit Karina | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Beautifully clean crack. First lap did a few strenuous laybacks and only just stayed on. Second lap switched to finger locks and thin hand jams with good feet outside the crack and felt more solid.
|
|||||||
So 18. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Edge Of Pleasure P1
- mit
Karina
1
| 80m, 12 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Abseiled in for P1. Great slabbing line. Eases after the first few meters.
|
|||||||
19 | ★★★ The Viking - mit Karina | 40m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Good climb. P1 - bouldery move off the ground, easy traverse and up to ledge. P2 - slightly wide section to start then great laybacking and few jams to top. Clean rock and really enjoyable pitch.
|
|||||||
So 18. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
21 to 23 | ★★ Injustice - mit Melissa | 15m, 4 | |||||
Tricky middle section, more pumpy than expected
|
|||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land - mit Melissa | 15m, 3 | |||||
Exciting, runout, celebratory jug finish
|
|||||||
18 | ★★ Spaceman Spiff - mit Melissa | 15m, 6 | |||||
Long moves
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Buffalo Soldier - mit Melissa | 13m, 5 | |||||
Nice climb
|
|||||||
22 | ★ Continental Drift - mit Melissa | 12m, 3 | |||||
Hard start, exciting finish
|
|||||||
Sa 17. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire - mit Haily, Karina | 40m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Linked both pitches. P1 is worth doing. P2 is fantastic.
|
|||||||
Sa 17. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle - mit Melissa | 25m, 3 | |||||
Favorite of the day, tricky finish
|
|||||||
22 | ★ Susan's Slab - mit Melissa | 18m | |||||
Blank wall
|
|||||||
15 | The Crack Corner - mit Melissa | 25m | |||||
Fun laybacking
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - mit Melissa | 25m | |||||
Faceclimbed it because I suck at crackw
|
|||||||
21 | ★★ Silver Girl - mit Melissa | 18m, 3 | |||||
Tricky establishing, then easy
|
|||||||
16 | ★ Pickled Turnip - mit Melissa | 25m | |||||
Horrendous
|
|||||||
Sa 17. Feb 2024 - Albury Quarry | |||||||
Back Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Fun in the sun | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
Such a fun variant. Hang of shelf to stretch out back to tree house.
|
|||||||
Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
- mit
Dave J
1
2
3
| 70m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
First pitch of Pintle, second LHV then rapped back down for last pitch of Pintle. Second pitch is something special.
|
|||||||
Do 15. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- mit
Dave J
1
17
50
2
16
40
3
16
40
4
17
15
Broke P3 into two right after step over when DJ ran out gear, leaving me with his finger crack crux (crux of the whole climb imo)...
5
17
40
... and giving Davey my ow pitch jiji. Ow reputation did not live up to its reality, just a bit of grunt work- mind you i didn't lead it.
6
10
45
| 230m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
It was one of those days, not like other ones- days that hurry all too fast along, this day holds firm, steeped in the memories and emotion on Angels. Like a deep spring, it is an adventure to nourish a climber's soul, to draw from for many seasons and sessions to come. One of the most satisfying days I've had in years.
|
|||||||
So 11. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
20 | ★ Wicked Solitaire Variant 2 - mit luke m | 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
I didnt really climb most of the route. I pulled onto the face at the 2nd bolt.
|
|||||||
Do 8. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Classic. All the best parts of buffalo on one climb
|
|||||||
Mi 7. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - mit JB | 230m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Another great day on granite.
|
|||||||
So 4. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - mit Ti | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Stunning line and superb movement.
|
|||||||
So 4. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - mit Rafal, Stuart Wales, Oliver Robson | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Tension on the rope pushed the cam at the top of the crack on pitch #3 deep into the crack. Thanks Stuart Wales for unfcuking it.
|
|||||||
So 4. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||||
18 | ★ Boldfinger | 12m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Has potential to be dangerous, take care
|
|||||||
So 4. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start - mit Rafal | 10m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Spicy laybacks to wiggly wiggly worms was highlight. Must work on mantling...
|
|||||||
Sa 3. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
- mit
Ti
1
Vorstieg durch
Ti
2
3
| 70m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
First climb on Buffalo granite. It just sticks! Very different movement to what I'm used to, but very fun and engaging.
|
|||||||
Sa 3. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - mit Oliver Robson, Stuart Wales, Rafal | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Beautiful line with just enough spice. Fell on the crux trying to swap hands. Should have looked for footholds. I'll be back
|
|||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - mit Craig Thomas | 20m | |||||
Beautiful sequence, delightful finger locks
|
|||||||
Sa 3. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start - mit Craig Thomas | 10m | |||||
Questionable decisions and unwavering commitment
|
|||||||
Fr 2. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
10 M4 | ★★★ Ozymandias Direct | 300m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Fun day out, solo in 11.5hrs.
Double rack, black totem to #4, single #5. Narrow cam hooks, few medium offsets and small nuts. Could have used some more/smaller offset nuts. |
|||||||
Fr 2. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel | 12m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Such an absorbing climb. A time machine climb that feels much longer than its meters. New anchors on top to lower off.
|
|||||||
Fr 2. Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | |||||
Planned on an end of day cruise, ended up being a little spicy. Save a #1 or # 2 totem or equiv for top of crack before stepping to face. Great climb with a good variety of techniques.
|
|||||||
Mi 31. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - mit Daygin Prescott | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Looks unassuming from the bottom but has few tricky moves
|
|||||||
Mi 31. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Highway 61 - mit Daygin Prescott | 43m | |||||
Beautiful line definitely deserves more attention
|
|||||||
Mi 31. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - mit Daygin Prescott | 90m, 1 | |||||
Welcome to the potluck of buffalo climbing. Slab/traverse/flake/handcrack. There is something to love and something to freak out on for everyone involved. Don’t walk past this beauty
|
|||||||
Mi 31. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side Wilkinson's Lookout | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Silk And Satin - mit Daygin Prescott | 25m | |||||
A rare example of fair grading at the buff. Bomber locks will blow your socks off and the unexpected gift of footers just where you want them will make your wildest stemming fantasies come true. Stitch it up or run it out, take your pick without compromising your longevity or sanity, this buffalo piece is about as cushy at it gets and almost feels like this piece of climbing has fallen out of a benevolent pocket of an ego-boosting climbing god that got lost on his way to a holiday grade destination. But I’ll take it
|
|||||||
Di 30. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
21 ~23 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush - mit Daygin Prescott | 55m | |||||
Moisturise your eyeballs and get ready for ‘spot the carrot’ game. Almost gave up and started jugging out when the anchor materialised before my eyes.
Exposed, technical and unprotected start is what you’re coming here for. Train your pinches and prayers to levitate your suddenly laden body up the footless sequences and let your imagination roam free at the building of anticipated smackdown into your trusty belayer. Make sure you take your pick at a soft-bodied type. Beautiful piece of natures stonework with just enough sparks to make you dance on your toes the whole way, with a glorious clean layback corner to finish you off by the means of terminal pump. Enjoy the acute awareness of being alive and ponder upon the subtle beauty of human experience at the amusing symphony of your groaning and yelping second. |
|||||||
Mo 29. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
21 | ★★ Backless - mit Daygin Prescott | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Great low commitment route
|
|||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula | 60m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Top rope solo. Second doing this route. What a climb!
|
|||||||
So 28. Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Home James | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Pretty wet down low so micro traxed the rap rope till the 1st bolt then detached and led from there. Sweet climb, 1st time leading and it was excellent. Blue, yellow (or similar sized wire) and purple totems worked well.
|
Take cams, lots of slings, gardening gloves and a pruning saw.