Begehungen in North East haben Beta

Insanely good slabbing! Well protected, just make sure your second is anchored so they don’t slam into the wall when you fall (sorry Harrie Van de Linde) Crux is definitely the first 3 bolts, but it doesn’t ease up all that much.

Got all the moves, but it’ll take a couple toprope laps to dial in the beta.

Best and worst climb I’ve ever done. 10/10 would not recommend.

Unleash your inner Queenslander to get through the wide stuff! (Or just layback like a normal person)

I thought it was alright, Rachael thought it was the best route she’s done so far. Don’t rap off the tree, the bolts are much better to access.

Another super classic of Buffalo that is severely underclimbed!!! Only because it’s out of the way for most.

Hard slab, very slick and small rock

Second lead attempt, I pre-placed gear, probably my whole rack. Wanted to try free on lead from the ground to big grassy with an aid crew. Rock was pretty out of condition in the sun. Still managed a high point, passed the crux, panicked and grabbed the draw instead of the send. Been choking on some of the runouts. Finished at the aid belay, flashed from there to the next belay, not sure of a grade for the short bit, maybe 25? Struggled up the next pitch from there to big grassy. Was absolutely cooked after 4 pitches!

Fell once at the top of the flake, and got scared clipping the 4th bolt. Continued straight up from the anchors (no pro) and wandered our way for a swim. Classic route, worthy of many more ascents, especially now that we’ve cleaned off a bunch of the moss and loose rock.

Sincere thanks to Michael Law for retrobolting this route. It’s now safe and sane (but still has that friction slab quality without being over bolted).

First lead attempt with brad. Took at the piton then finished at aid belay.

Bloody awesome climb, First pitch is MEGA!!! Traverse is scary on the only M6? Bolt. Only last pitch is a bit mossy but nice.

First two pitches are absolute class! A nice sting in the tail of P1 to keep you on your toes.

Pro tip: if you graciously let your partner take the glory of the first pitch, you get to avoid the hanging bolt belay.

Wanted to see what a 27 on granite felt like. Spoiler alert: HARD!

Couldn’t figure out the last bolt, but got the rest. Also gave me an excuse to run another lap of Lift Ladies

Description says it all - if only it were longer

Would recommend doing as one pitch (be careful with gear to reduce drag)

Made an adventure out of this thing! Ended up being 3 pitches of awesome (although not the climb) Rapped down from above Wicked Solitaire and walked across (terrible idea), scrambled up and squeezed through a chimney to get to the tree (p1).

Did the corner as intended, but was not keen for the mossy, wet, and crumbly traverse. Decided that the finger crack going up and left looked WAY more fun. Doubt it’s a FA (it’s just so obvious), but was so full of loose and crumbly rock it’s obviously not been touched for many many years. 3 stars (probably about 22, but hard to tell given the loose rock and wetness) - out left and belayed on the ledge.

Finished up the mossy crack, which was harder than it looked, but really topped off the adventure

Pretty good

Got the first part, but aid section is seaping and full of moss: Went out left instead, small finger traverse (22-23)? But very chossy and loose flakey rock.

Should have lead it, but one for next time.

Slipped off the traverse first go. All over after that. Never climbed such frictionless friction slab! Was even slipping on the scramble to the corner

https://cursedascent.com/defender-of-the-faith-aid-solo-climb/

Another solo session, moves felt unfamiliar first go. Got to the last part of the top crux clean second go. Top needs more dialing. Skin was a bit raw, called it after 2 burns.

Easy, super fun climbing - absolutely loved the first pitch.

When abseiling in, aim for the left set of anchors, as the right will 100% twist your ropes. You can probably get away with a single 70m for the second rap, but only on rope stretch. If you’ve got an 80, happy days

Decided to get another climb in despite the sunburnt forearms. Could do with a bit more traffic to clean it up a bit. Was climbing grass and thick lichen towards the top

Nice easy corner to escape for the day.

What a way to get back into slab climbing! Beautiful line, tackling the face with pure, consistent slab. Great welcome to Mt Buffalo

Rachael quickly regretted volunteering to lead, but pushed through the fear wonderfully. First climb at Buffalo, and a great warmup.

Alex in Wonderland’s little cousin!

Top pitch only, access via Climbing fire in the foothills (don't bother with the tourist route). Chains are cactus so make sure you bring some gear.

Not bad, only the runout makes it exciting, but nice flowey moves up the crack, overgraded

Nice, fun, pulling on a loose flake

Liv’s first trad second

Fun, crack without the jamming

Some good gear in the cracks, a bit thinner near the top but it goes.

Lead as a single pitch, and geez what a line! Consistent crack climbing up to the roof, a couple of stonker placements and then some bloody bold moves.

I forgot how painful constantly jamming with one foot is! Took up triples of #1,2,3 camelots but really wished I had three more #3's

Full value 17! I've never had to work so hard on a multi, pretty much sustained climbing the whole way. As echoed by the previous comments make sure you have ankle protection.

As classy as it looks. Fantastic precise moves will make you look as photogenic as the setting. Placed the plates and draws on the rap but didn't inspect the holds, so I'll put it as a flash. Good thing too as the first bolt has a large head and may require the right size plate/ some fiddling. Dean cruised up after on lead.

The variant second pitch adds some value, though the true cream is P3. Tat belay at end of pitch 1 backed by S/M cams. Went the squeeze tunnel to get from P2 to P3.. tight.

Bloody tough. Kept coming off trying to pull onto the climb so will give it the red point. Said I'd give it one last attempt as we watched dark clouds and thunder approach and managed to stick it. Commited then and had to compose myself as I kept fighting to the top while it began to slowly rain, then pelt down just near the top. Full lightning strikes around as I summited so I turfed all my gear straight down the rope. Used Dean as a body anchor on the other side to rapidly clean the route as the sky opened up hail the size of cool mints. Can't get much more epic than that!