Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
(new route off ledge) - mit Isabelle Scott | 25m, 8 | Vergiss es | |||||
Good, easy route. Crux is about 5.5-5.6 but the rest of the route is no more than 5.4. Not worth the scramble to get to the base but worth the extra effort if you are planning on climbing the other routes in this area.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - mit Isabelle Scott | 23m, 8 | |||||
Messed up at the overhang
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit Isabelle Scott | 30m, 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
With our packs - to exit
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5.9 | ★★ Bill Bucks - mit Isabelle Scott | 12m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
Continued onto Ninnyhammer
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer - mit Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
From the top of Bill Bucks
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Sa 2. Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
- mit
Karen
| 45m, 12 | Durchschnitt | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
- mit
Karen
| 20m, 12 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Got caught by a thunderstorm. Lowered the second and abseiled down
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit Karen | 30m, 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - mit Karen | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
So 23. Jul 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - mit Chieko H | 23m, 8 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit Chieko H | 30m, 10 | |||||
Top-roped this one for exfil with the backpack + kitchen sink
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Fun as always! Some key crimp holds that aren't as visible from below
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5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
So 11. Jun 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
(new route off ledge) | 25m, 8 | ||||||
About 5.6, won't be the best route, but should be adequate.
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(slab/arete route under development) | 25m | ||||||
Will probably end up being 5.4-5.5, but hopefully with good position.
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5.5 | ★ Ithilien | 23m, 12 | ★ Gut | ||||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Sa 15. Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
- mit
David Gibbs, Bartski
1
5.9
20m
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - mit David Gibbs, Bartski | 23m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fell off again. Went too high and left at the crux.
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5.5 | ★ Ithilien - mit David Gibbs, Bartski | 23m, 12 | Durchschnitt | ||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey - mit David Gibbs, Bartski | 30m, 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
Happy this went very well today
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5.9 | ★★ Bill Bucks - mit David Gibbs, Bartski | 12m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
1
5.9
20m
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ★ Gut | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
Di 6. Sep 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Need 3-4 pieces of larger pro (#2-#3 Camalot)
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Hidden half crimps on the pink crux
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5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | |||||
Climbed out with pack as a single pitch. Way too much rope drag to do that again. WATERMELON-SIZED ROCKS LOOSE halfway up first pitch, on right face. They're sitting in shallow dirt and will come out on the next pull
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Mo 5. Sep 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
- mit
Isabelle Scott
| 45m, 12 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit Isabelle Scott | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - mit Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | |||||
Sa 23. Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | |||||
5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover | 28m | |||||
So 3. Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - mit Phil Price | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
In my running shoes.
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5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss - mit Phil Price | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Mr. Mossy meets Mr. Chossy - mit Phil Price | 38m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Led the second pitch today. Could use a bit of cleaning here and there.
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Sa 2. Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
With recovery, happy I could get this clean. |
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit David Gibbs | 30m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
So 29. Mai 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 5.8 PG | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant - mit Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | |||||
Onsight of the variant. Repeat of Ninnyhammer up to the variant.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - mit Isabelle Scott | 23m, 8 | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
- mit
Isabelle Scott
| 45m, 12 | |||||
Mo 23. Mai 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
So 1. Mai 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion - mit Isabelle Scott | 18m, 7 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Climbed above the anchor and belayed my second from there rather than trying to lower back down to the anchor given the significant lateral distance between the mid-cliff anchor and the anchor.
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Sa 16. Apr 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast - mit David Gibbs | 43m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Trad lead! Whew! Multi-pitch! Very emotionally exciting. Nice trees!
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer - mit David Gibbs | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Tirrrrrred
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - mit David Gibbs | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
First climb out of the season. Whew!
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - mit David Gibbs | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
First climb out of the season. Whew!
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
Rope got stuck on the pull -- there's a rope-eating crack right at the top I'm going to have to fix.
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ★ Gut | ||||
Su's first multi-pitch trad lead. It took a while, but overall went well.
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
Fr 15. Apr 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - mit Matt Bull, Josee Lalonde | 23m, 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | |||||
5.5 | ★ Ithilien - mit Matt Bull, Josee lalonde | 23m, 12 | |||||
Mo 8. Nov 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | |||||
So 7. Nov 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast - mit David Gibbs | 43m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Do 28. Okt 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Mr. Mossy meets Mr. Chossy | 38m, 7 | |||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss | 20m, 11 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Salamander | 23m, 11 | |||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | |||||
So 24. Okt 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | |||||
5.5 | ★ Ithilien | 23m, 12 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Bill Bucks | 12m, 4 | |||||
Broke a hold right at the bottom to the right of the crack you first go up.
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | |||||
Top bolt at anchor needs to be tightened or moved as the hanger does not sit flat and has play. Didn't have my tools on me to help out.
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5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | |||||
5.8 5.8 PG | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant | 30m, 14 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | |||||
Sa 25. Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
I hadn't successfully lead this in ages -- nice to know my climbing is mostly back.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Somebody said, "why'd you bolt a trad route" for this. So, I decided to lead it on gear. It isn't a good trad route at the grade -- too run out. I was fine, but I don't mind easy run-out trad.
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So 19. Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Salamander - mit Bartski | 23m, 11 | ★ Gut | ||||
A meeting almost forgotten means I couldn't go to Weir today, but the reward was an afternoon here with Bart, and getting the FFA on this.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit Bartski | 30m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Sa 4. Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.7 5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover - mit Isabelle Scott | 28m | Durchschnitt | ||||
I think the crux is closer to 5.7/5.8. My second struggled through the crux too. Gear is OK, but thin in areas (decent gear below and above the crux but not through the crux). I ran out (5-10m) some sections of the climb. Got pumped through the crux because I didn't want to commit. Ended up have to take and rest after the crux.
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5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis - mit Isabelle Scott | 31m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
5.4 | ★ Indecision, Indecision, Indecision - mit Isabelle Scott | 31m, 9 | Durchschnitt | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - mit Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
With backpack
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5.6 |
★ Radagast
- mit
Isabelle Scott
| 40m | ★ Gut | ||||
Wasn't sure how to start it, used the staircase-like blocks just right of A Story for Jan which has some good gear. Instead of using the large oak tree for the first pitch belay, I opted for a trad anchor in the crack system just left of the three for a high masterpoint and a comfortable belay stance. Climbed to the top, and belayed off a tree about 5m above the anchor for Rhovanion. Gear in the second pitch is sometime thin to inexistent. Some cracks could be cleaned with a nut tool to allow some small (x4 0.1/0.2) placements. I had left mine with my follower so I ran it out.
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Sa 28. Aug 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Red Turtle - mit Simon McMillan | 18m, 2 | Durchschnitt | ||||
5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover - mit Simon McMillan | 28m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Now that I've climbed it in dry conditions, 5.6 feels far more reasonable as a grade.
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5.6 5.5 | ★ Radagast - mit Simon McMillan | 43m | |||||
Climbed before doing more cleaning - at this point climbed at about 5.6, but will probably be closer to 5.5 when fully cleaned. Did it in one pitch -- I don't recommend this choice due to rope-drag.
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5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss - mit Simon McMillan | 20m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun route.
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5.4 | ★ Indecision, Indecision, Indecision - mit Simon McMillan | 31m, 9 | ★ Gut | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Red Turtle - mit David Gibbs | 18m, 2 | ★ Gut | ||||
Really enjoyed the upper bit.
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5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover - mit David Gibbs | 28m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Only the last bit is worth it.
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5.5 | ★ (in progress trad route) - mit David Gibbs | 43m | ★ Gut | ||||
A good easy trad.
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5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss - mit David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.4 | ★ Indecision, Indecision, Indecision - mit David Gibbs | 31m, 9 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Good at its grade.
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Sa 14. Aug 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | ||||
Took the left variation.
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