Begehungen in Napoleon

Felt more like a flash. Didn't remember anything from seven years ago. Climbed a more direct variant today that Matze told me about, which makes the top part a good deal easier, but it strays a bit from the original line and even leaves out a bolt (which is out of reach to the left), although it's the more direct line from the ledge to the anchor. Still fantastic.

Abseil from Napoleonsblock to the plateau, then through the west face of Napoleonswand in the dark. #jahreserste2024

#jahreserste2024

An easy and enjoyable climb and an obvious line, but quite a few loose blocks in the beginning and also not so easy to protect without big cams. Used a few slings and smaller nuts.

Slightly intimidating line that pulls up over the little roof to the right of "Neuer Gemsenweg" with just one shabby bolt. I extended the third bolt of the Gemsenweg to back up the bolt. There's a narrow slit a little to the right of the line right where the hardest moves are. A black totem fits perfectly there. After a few moves on edges, you reach a dihedral with a sensible nut placement. The last part from the ledge is quite easy, with another bomber nut placement.

The original finish of "Neuer Gemsenweg". It's best to have some protection somewhere on the plateau before stepping out onto the arête. Nice position!

Typical Frankenjura pocket climb, not bad actually! How many times have I abseiled past this? :-D

120cm Schlinge für Absicherung oberhalb der Schlüsselstelle ist hilfreich!

Snow-free and bone dry. Great wintery evening light on the summit.

#jahreserste2023 with a good deal of snow in the route. Luckily the clouds dissolved and we had a little sun!

#repeat

First Frankenjura route for my friend Luiz Felipe Ribas! #repeat