Begehungen in Schwalbenstein

#jahreserste2024

#jahreserste2023

Enjoyable! Not as hard as it seems from below.

#warmup

The good fingerlock in the crux makes it relatively easy for the grade, especially compared to the rest of the 8s here. Careful on the way to the second bolt. Good line along the overhanging crack. Ends on the ledge, you can either finish with "Berglustweg" or "Südwand".

#repeat Now with glue-ins instead of pegs in two places. No entries in the summit book since I was here in March …

The friction was a lot better than in July 2020, but the crux still felt hard. Took me a good while to commit again, and I even slipped off while resting far above the bolt and barely stuck to the wall. Felt more in control in the upper part than last time, though. Such a brilliant route.

Not as easy as I had anticipated! Interesting slab dihedral, getting steeper towards the end. After squeezing through the gap, the upper part is like "Südwand" or "Westwand" (easy, but without fixed gear). #jahreserste2022

Interesting passage around the arête before the anchor.

Die Querung im Einstiegsbereich vom Direkteinstieg ist im 7ten Grad.

2nd go

Exactly my kind of climbing. Slightly rough, powerful start followed by a long and continuously demanding almost vertical slab. Cruxy bit over sidepulls to the diagonal rib, then gradually easier to the top. Fantastic!

2nd go

3rd go. beautiful arete, probably hard to onsight?

Fantastic arête climbing on small pockets and some sidepulls. Crux are the last two moves from the arête to the juggy ledge.

Climbed it again to get a top rope into "Mauersegler". Found out a new solution to the crux, using the double pocket with three fingers in the left one and the index finger in the little one next to it. Works nicely.

Our rope got stuck after the abseil. Decided to climb with the rest of the rope we had. Barely made it to the anchor on the little ledge before the summit … Great wall climbing, spicy to the second bolt. Small holds in the middle section, tricky footwork. The last few meters to the summit are a bit grassy, it's sensible to lower at the last bolt.

Thanks to the gardeners for cleaning up the start! Felt miles easier than "Südwand" to me. Nice traverse on jugs and easy stairway (also cleaned up) to the big ledge, then up the dihedral to the summit.

Tried to reach the first bolt (about halfway up …) on lead because there was lats of chalk on the holds, but could only do reversible moves up to about half the distance to the bolt, so I slowly climbed down again.

Glad I decided to climb down. Reached the first bolt without falling, but it's still hard to clip and you can very well fall off there if you're too nervous. The crux, however, indeed begins right after the bolt, and you can basically drop off anywhere from there to the anchor. If I ever want to climb this, I'll have to practice it a lot; making mistakes or running out of power is not an option.

2nd go. Anhaltend schwere Wandkletterei an runden Leisten und Einfingerlöchern. Saniert, aber immer noch fordernd!

Frisch sanierter Klassiker, ein bisschen schwerer als die Südwand

Leicht für den Grad.

Frisch sanierter Klassiker

The book on the summit list this as 6- and it feels like it, too. Wall climbing with lots of moss in the middle. Just enough holds to make it possible for the grade range, interesting line. Two rusty pegs backed up with two shiny Bühler bolts, the upper part needs to be protected with nuts. Great view from the summit. Just a pole on top for abseiling (and a ring on the ledge in the middle). Very interesting summit book.

Jahresserste: Wenn der Griff ins Leere geht, wird ein Flüstern zum Schreien" 3 Besteigungen 2015!

FFA.