Begehungen in Sprungstein

Climbed a variant that's only described in the 1931 guidebook, but makes a lot of sense. Instead of traversing to the right after 10 or so meters, traverse left to a good ledge, then easily up. The only hindrance is the vegetation. All the variants of "Alter Weg" deserve a few more ascents per year, but I guess that's never going to happen.

The step over to the tower is the hardest move if climbed freely, but the traverse to the left is also still a bit delicate. Around the corner it's just the finish of the nice "Ostwand". #jahreserste2024

Really bad rock, wet and green. Not recommended at all since there is a bat cave in the middle of the line

didn't like the route at first, but it's a nice technical sequence with that mono.

Soft

Originally climbed as a variant of "Ostwand", this one obtained a direct start via two bolts, which is again the crux of the route. From the cave of "Ostwand" out left onto the arête and in good, enjoyable rock to the top (with a little overhang at the end, if you go directly).

Great easy climbing, the only part that might reach the fifth grade are the first one or two moves. From then on it's quite a pleasure on big holds (well, the stink of the dormouse droppings in the big cave is rather unpleasant, I admit) following the big features of the east face.

The "jump" at the start (I didn't really jump, but rather let myself fall over to the other side) is of course the highlight of this one, but the rest is rad easy climbing, too. It's quite vegetated, sure, but the important holds are available. Only the big ledge before the finish along the arête is a bit too overgrown for my taste.

Fantastic line along the obvious crack in the south face. Despite being a crack, it's mostly climbing on pockets and jugs at the edges of the crack, no jams. The "classic" rating definitely implies going all the way to the top, the last ten meters are more than worth it and should be done more often to get rid of the vegetation.

The traverse at the start looks way harder than 5+, but the pockets turn out to be really good. Once you're around the corner, it's basically around 4, but highly enjoyable. The top part is a little vegetated and should be climbed more often. #warmup

9+/10-

Hard dyno after the start

Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top

Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top

When I did the jump to the sloper and locked the arm on 90 degrees I knew that it would be the ascent

Hard dyno after the start

Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top

Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top

Did the jump to the sloper of the boulder, when I got the jug I knew it would be the ascent