Begehungen in Vereinigte Staaten von Amerika haben Beta

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

Amazing

tried after onsighting to the first chains. Grabbed the last draw for a lack of positioning to clip.

Tried to onsight, could not do the start boulder

Just took some victory whips on this after sending scotty

Fuck. Yes.

Very beta specific slap and face climbing. Fantastic climb.

Sketchy start up to first bolt (at least for short people like me). Techy and balancy afterwards.

One move wonder

Slightly slabby start, easy finish.

Slabby start, easy finish

Hard move for the grade up to first bolt, cruising afterwards

Lovely, long.

Flake work and delicate feet. Moves either side of the line in thought-provoking, committing ways. It's a 5.10b on Mountain Project - maybe moreso due to retro-bolting in 2018 (sounds a bit sketch prior to then). I would go with 5.10c.

And, it'll throw you if you aren't techy or used to the style. My friend sat a lot on it after working two harder climbs earlier in the day.

An absolutely joy, another 5.10 of the day I would come back and do again 👌

The line for the grade here!! What a freaking climb 😘👌, probably sandbagged for QLD standards 😅

Deliciously long. The view at the top is a straight out of LOTR.

Varied - crack at the start, a stemmy corner with a bulge/rooflet to work around, delicate pockets, 2 hands-free rests and a roof that made me sit on gear until I could see the Savior.Pocket that takes you to sweets jugs for the anchor.

So bummed I was one move from the onsight.

(Also, the name on Mountain Project is Boob Loob)

Holy Stemming Batman! Was not ready for this as my starter for the day! Felt run out and was not my style, so for me, harder than 5.8. had to have a sit & think. For what I have climbed in the area, it is unique.

I stayed left at the top whereas there are some hectic off width photos on the RHS on Mountain Project.

Delicate with some thin flake work. I think this would get a 19/20 grade in Ewbanks. Stacked Deck (5.10b, felt easier than this).

Really enjoyed it.

Has been retro bolted - I want to say 5 draws now - a few on this wall are now much better bolter with RB's

Lovely huecos (buckets) greet you at the start with some tech-y middle around a small bulge. Lovely

Delicate slab and small hand hold and tiny feet. Run-out so a fall would equal a parmesan cheese grater (which is what keeps it at 5.9 IMHO).

Lots of people bagged it on Mountain Project; and, I didn't hate it. It would have to be your style though. Wouldn't give it the 2 stars.

Run-out compared to Dirty Sally, shorter. Had some nice techy areas, the run-out probably making it the grade versus the length/moves. Sharper rock than Dirty Sally, and a bit of a let down after the beauty of the route (Dirty Sally) that was to the right

Tried this after mis-reading Mountain Project & The Crag. Was looking for Stacked Deck (the next one to the left) Very boulder-y, spanny start. Bailed at the first clip. Matt went up it after - it was basically watching him dog up a slabby, crimpy hug-fest fridge.

Frankly, unless you like to hate yourself to the 6th layer of Hell, I would avoid this one, there are so many other lovely 5.10's and 5.11's within 5-10minutes walk.

Thought-inducing pocket-fest. Was told by some locals it’s a classic. I can see why

Lovely line - long for area and varied. Rooflet took some thinking. Distance between draws compared to the other ones previously made it feel more committing than what it probably was. I kept right at the top, the others went more direct from last bolt to anchor

Slabby-er than worded, but a pleasant welcome to Wild Iris 👌

5.10c on Mountain Project - could be a 5.10d by Aussie standards/style. I really like the layback start but it caught me in the wrong direction about halfway up. Fine edges for feet/foot jam if you know how to use them, otherwise it’s ruthless. Thin, middle but with rests. Top has lovely jugs if you know where to fine them. Demands commitment throughout. Great climb

Lovely flake start onto slab. A pleasant little ease in

J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"

The second last bolt is loose and should not be clipped (5/06/24)

Awesome route. The onsight failed due to misreading of the tricky sequence

tried the onsight. The weird beta in the roof got me

Beautiful, techy climb - varied. Slab start, to a beautiful roof with a committing highfoot move and exposed clip far above the roof, finishing with flowy, techy work with precise feet. Would have a higher grade on the Aussie Ewbanks system.

Fell at the roof - a great climb. Runout spoken about before anchor (on Mountain Project) has since been eliminated, and still feels ballsy AF. So happy for to take the charge on this one and put up the draws. Friend/belay partner felt this was a harder climb than Bush Administration to the left (though less sustained). Would climb this and First Impressions again. This wall is stunning.

How this doesn't have 3 stars on The Crag is beyond me. Varied, overhung and just a stunning long line with great exposure and moves for the grade. If you have to choose between this and Herbal Essences for a warm-up, choose this one. Unless you're a slab fiend.

Slabby start gets more overhung as you go. Nice and long, a harder 5.9 than those in the Canal Zone

wussed out of RH variant

with direct start, intended to swing 3 pitches to the top so pitched it out, but ended up leading this pitch too

First three moves 🙂

Busted my knee 🙃

Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous

Coming back for the send (if my fingers let me)

Pull two 5.12 moves then victory 5.9 slab. Unfortunately I fell on the 5.12 moves on my flash

I do not know how this got assigned a 5.4 rating. I have climbed this route a few times and nearby routes many times. There definitely exists a 5.0 route that corresponds with the photograph. The view from the belay station that's at the end of the first pitch on the direct ascent (just below the notch; level with where the belay point is marked on kindergarten crack) makes this a classic.

You should not in fact do this as one pitch; high winds in the area result in loss of communication between climber and belayer. Two pitches minimum.

Protection placed: cams between .25 and 3; a pair of mid-sized (I know them as blue) wedges and a very large wedge; and multiple bollards.

This ascent is my first redpoint of this route; I have previously led this route but all prior attempts were done as class 6 ascents due to climbing directly on a cam in the crux point.

First route at Tahquitz! Led all pitches. Sandbagged af. "Downclimb" first requires a 100 ft friction slab up climb 😅 and then a tricky descent on a v steep gulley.