Ascents in Australia as trad by Vanessa Wills

Variant 20 start, sent Ryan up the 19 crack pitch with only 2 cams, linked a few pitches, did all clean except one rest on the 23, alt leads. Last 21 pitch not pleasant on sore fingers.

great day with some stunning climbing. Had a rest on P2 . Thought the route could be renamed chalk is cheap given the excess! Back to the van before the rain

Pitches 4,5,and 6 are stellar and worth the icky bits below

Beautiful moves after a tricky start. Top pitch only, down as 24 which it may feel on lead

Tried the 26 and 24 pitches today. Seems possible but very technical. Right index finger hit by broken rock. Now I have 2 painful index fingers.

P3 only. Not sure if it’s the morning weeding or just decrepitude, but did quite abysmally. Had a police boat zip in to investigate for some reason. Will be falcon closure time soon, but no problems today.

Combined this with Drayton ( mainly because I abseiled too far). Tricky technical climbing

P2 and3 , got through the first half of P2 to the mantle, then faded towards end. P3 start is dire, then gnarly finger crack that will be tricky on lead

Got to half way mantle clean and almost got through it it, then easy to the crimp crux and faded on the top third again.

FFA. Great exposure, and nice varied climbing. Hard to give a reliable opinion after the work involved putting it up, and walking in to do this and Dave’s route as a day trip. Again, the cracks were a bit damp in parts after a 50 mm rain event. Shady in the morning, gets some afternoon sun. Would go at 19A0.

A rather chilly day in Queensland on the south face. Took about 3 hours. Went to the top then down tourist track. Rock architecture in the overhangs is amazing

Led 1,3,5. Nails moves on pitch 1. Major calf pump and then very thin overlap. Kept going back to hands free rest and did it clean about 6th go. Rest of climb straightforward. Walk in on a hot day was epic. About 8 hour round trip and a lot of slabs.

Led 1 and 3. First tricam!. Bad shoes. with Rich

Led P1 and 3. First tricam. Bad shoes. With Rich.

Well, the first 3 pitches anyway in about 10 minutes with 3 bits of gear. Might get back to it one day. On a weekday. Before any other climbers around.

Second P1,2 together with backpack to get out trying Johnny Dawes style ( no hands). Led P3. A single # 2 cam is all you need.

Escape at the end of day

Escape at the end of day

Tried to lead, starting crack great, wobbled across traverse, got to third bolt and it is desperate to clip esp when dirty. Took a sideways fall of about 3 m, sprained ankle, cursed carrots, and stupid bolt placement, dave led with some jiggery pokery, managed to second clean ( with more excitement and ankle pain). First pitch only, that was enough!

Excellent line, nice and long, possibly a retro bolt by someone other than Herb, as on rings.

led P1, second P2. A few OK moves. Made more exciting by bolt blindness.

Worth getting back at 1030pm. Awesome day. Broke a large hold off lower flake. I am such a crusher!

Interesting traverse, then easy and exposed arete/face

OK for thegrade. Nice and long

I did place draws on way down. Really pumpy

I did place draws on way down. Really pumpy

Was worried the sun would hit us, but instead it started to rain. A bit overhyped, and the only hard move was getting off the starting ledge without being able to reach the better holds. Then it was all over too quickly.

Felt pretty cruise. Pitch one only

Hard start. Underrated

Only top pitch. Bad idea for first Buffalo slab route. Seemed desperate, and I was only seconding.

I think this was the first one I did.

Some good moves.

Rpt already, second Neil

Pretty hot in the afternoon sun, called it a day

The best thing about falling at the top was I got to do it again

Did 24 variant Pitch 1, second, and led pitch 2. Took a few falls before figuring crux. Freezing day. Stellar route.Best 2 pitch route in the world!!!!

Cant say I noted a crux

Really good moves and great exposure after the scary start

I agree, a much better version than the originals wobbly flake. Some of the rock looked suspect, but nothing broke.

Led p1 and 3. Dave did cam only r hand streak. Retreated due to sun

Did the non direct version clean ( I think) and came off twice on the upper bolts. Nice sequences. Worth coming back for a lead.

Had forgotten all my sequences after the 22 section and spent two goes trying to sort it. I still find the crux on the "23" bit at the second bolt the hardest of the 3 cruxy sections, but surprisingly it all worked 3 rd go. Will no doubt forget everything before I get back to lead it.

Rpt from years ago. Nice route, could have half the bolts, and in better positions and it would be mega classic. Getting bolt plates on was almost always in a locked off position

Never sure whether watching Dave helps me at all, but nice to have the draws on. Put in a bit more gear up top

Kind of weirdly bolted near good cam placements, but run out lower section on crap rock

Not as hard or as interesting as it's neighbour

Rpt, couldn't remember doing this

The crack in the middle is very nice. The start is a retro bolt of BGUTI, the finishing arête is tricky with no wear or chalk for clues

We did it from the bottom. The trad bit is quite reachy. I know it’s a new route, but the rock quality just didn’t let me enjoy it that much, and some weird bolt placements.

Been on both halves before, a fantastic route.

I think it had some nice climbing , couldnt feel hands. Seconded the FA.

need platform rock shoes for the start

Another near perfect arete. Did the long version.