Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
18 | ★ The Digital Revolution | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not to bad at all. Start is interesting (in a good way) but it does turn into generic tibro slopers in the second half. Sat on second bolt to work out the move to the stance. Runout at the end is ok as it's on easy ground. Don't attempt if there is any chance the rock could be wet, the top could be interesting (in a bad way).
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Best climb on this wall.
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16 | Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
Only two bolts
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17 | ★ Piglet Gets Porked - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Couple of funny moves requiring more than stabbing footwork.
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16 | ★ The Enchanted Place - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 12m, 3 | ||||
Pretty easy but would be a bold lead with only two bolts!
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17 | ★★ Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up on top rope, first climb this year!
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15 | ★ Pooh Scoop - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice climb with friendly bolting. May be a bit soft for 15.
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Steves Preposterous Hypothesis | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looked good so have it a go without looking at the guide. Climbs well, stacks of bolts!
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Sat 7th Nov 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 30th Aug 2015 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
8 | ★ Dugglebutt and the bus of awesome | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Barefoot solo up and down.
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15 18 | ★ Dark Matter | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
I did not think this was much easier than Worm Hole and that was tricky for an 18.
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18 19 | ★ Worm Hole | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quite tricky for the grade.
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14 | ★ Event Horizon | 17m, 4 | Average | |||
11 | ★ Nebula | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
13 | ★ Star Dust | 17m, 4 | Average | |||
Easy day out.
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Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Cleaning gear
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Easy arvo at KP
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Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning gear
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl - with PattyD | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy arvo at KP
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Sat 23rd May 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Always a fun little climb.
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20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
After all these years I finally get to redpoint MOBS. Pretty stiff.
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Sat 23rd May 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Anonymous DS | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Easy but still more interesting than the usual slabby sloper climbs at KP
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the better KP routes.
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Mon 11th May 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Bombadil | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Bit trickier than I remember. Finished up Kass.
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16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A few laps for fitness, been a while since I was on this.
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Sat 25th Apr 2015 - Mt Tinbeerwah | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Me And My Dog - with Rose | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, I must have missed at least one bolt that put me a LONG way above the gear in the middle, kept a cool head and felt good!
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17 | ★★ Sports Fan - with Rose | 45m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice route. The fun moves through overhang are well protected. Crux is finding the carrots!
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14 | ★ Degrees Of Freedom - with Rose | 35m, 7 | Average | |||
One tricky section at the start then just stepping up blocky slab for 25m.
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Mon 13th Apr 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy | 16m, 4 | Average | |||
Mon 8th Dec 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 10th Nov 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 7th Jun 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I thought this would be better given the popularity, the rock is turning back into sand up top! The bolts at the chains are looking pretty ordinary as well, some glue-ins are in order.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Obligatory lap on this climb, so much fun.
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15 | ★ Tea for 2 | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb that has some steep rock in the upper half. Spent 2 hours belaying up multiple seconds!
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Fri 6th Jun 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
15 | ★ My Brothers Keeper (My brothers crack whore girlfriend) | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed again to clean.
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15 | ★ My Brothers Keeper (My brothers crack whore girlfriend) | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep, low grade and fun leading.
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16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One tricky clip in there.
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19 | ★★ Footprints on the Other Side | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stoked to cruise it after the last dogged ascent.
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14 | ★ The Dog's Paw | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rope up for friends.
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13 | ★ One Legged Dog | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up and rope up for friends. Fun low grade climb.
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Fri 23rd May 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rope up for friends, first climb in months!
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20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Easier than I remember. Fun climb.
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14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good easy route.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning route.
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Cleaning route.
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Sat 15th Mar 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, do this one every time I'm at Eagles Nest, heaps of fun.
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought I'd done this before but must have ticked this previously when I was actually on 245T. I got a bit confused at the tricky overhang up top. It's easy once you commit.
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Fri 14th Mar 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
15 | Book Em' Danno | 10m | Average | |||
Not a 13 at the start, got a bit of a surprise! Top out is great, best bit of the climb, def take a sling for pro up there. Feels like the climb was never properly equipped.
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21 | ★★ DH4 | 7m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it clean after sorting out the sequence at the start. Did not get a chance to go for the red point.
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21 | ★★ DH4 | 7m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Originally graded 22, downgraded to 20 in the guide, now 21 here. 21 seems about right. Balancy sequence at the start that is very tough to onsite. Top is not difficult but there is no good clipping stance/hold that I could find for the last bolt making it a bit of a heart breaker.
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13 | The End Is Nigh | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Better than it looks.
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18 | ★ Herb's In The Fernery | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty tough getting through the roof. Interesting top out.
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16 | ★ New Day Rising | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up, nice easy climb, nothing really memorable.
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Sat 15th Feb 2014 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Lower Cliffs The Lower Main Cliff | ||||||
21 | ★★ Serenade For Rings | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
With a total disregard for style and technique I trashed my way up this. Not sure if this is a sandbag or I'm just soft?
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18 | ★ Old Scholars | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Do I need to say this is hard for the grade... After flailing around on the crux I was almost too pumped to clip the 3rd(?) bolt, just getting there and avoiding an unpleasant fall back to the slab.
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17 | ★★ Absentia | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, maybe it was a 17 in 1994 when it still had holds! Now at the original grade it is a sandbag. Still a great route though.
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Sat 1st Feb 2014 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
19 | ★★ Gnarley | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm glad Rob pushed me to do this at the end of the day. I was tired so dogged it. Fun climb though and I'm looking forward to doing it with fresher arms.
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22 | ★★ Bombay Rock | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained first and second halves with a welcome break in between. Got it clean to second last bolt then missed that side pull up to the left. A couple more sits to get to the chains. Still really happy with this shot, it felt good and I had a great time.
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18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yep, pumpy like they say! Great fun and a route I can see myself doing many times.
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16 | ★ What Were We Thinking | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
There is no escaping it, the rock is terrible but the climbing is actually fun. Should clean up eventually.
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14 | ★ I'm Lichen It More | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
Super easy but fun, good for beginners.
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Sat 18th Jan 2014 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Slider | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean to last bolt then could not make the reachy move past it while pumped. Sorted out a bit of beta there and worked out a better way to clip the chains. Getting closer.
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22 | ★★ Slider | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Forgot where I was going just before the second last bolt, pumped out and took a rest. Then took a couple of falls doing the moves after the last bolt. Still having trouble with the stance for clipping the chains.
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Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Surrender | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning the gear. Confirmed this climb is all in the head.
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19 | ★★ Surrender | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Harder on the head than the arms, those ledges are ever present. Nice moves though. It would be a great climb if the first three bolts were reshuffled and maybe another added low down.
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17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up, awkward down low.
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Tue 17th Dec 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Slider | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean to the last bolt then took a very pumped fall going for the chains. Had to grab the chains once I got there to avoid the big wipper. Pretty happy for a first shot. Really good climb!
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Mon 2nd Dec 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb, interesting moves.
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19 | ★ Something About Sandy | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Close enough to red point, climbed cleanly through crux from first bolt on second attempt. First half of climb is great, second half nothing special.
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16 | ★ The Horse | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Tricky little start but it is all over quickly and turns into easy gerneric tibro.
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15 | ★ Such A Nice Monster | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Jugs... on Tibro... that don't pull off... wish I'd known earlier!
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Sun 17th Nov 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Pentennial Romanticide | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning gear.
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14 | ★ Pentennial Romanticide | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Setting top rope for beginner friends.
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Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ The Sundog Traverse | 20m | ||||
Sobering, could not even dog my way up it.
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13 | ★ Off With The Pixies | 18m, 3 | Average | |||
Pretty unmemorable. You would not want to fall though.
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17 | ★★★ Minotaur p1 | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Embarrassing but I took a big fall trying to clip the 4th bolt on my first attempt. Ended up very close to the ground with my belayer 3m up in the air. Probably should have used the huge jug just above the bolt not the tiny crimp below it...
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Sat 24th Aug 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent climb, bummer you have to climb through the shitty sandy stuff for the first 10m to get to the good stuff. Pretty overhung for a low grade, but all the holds are there, and the rests are where you need them.
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15 | ★ Tea for 2 | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great fun long climb.
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Fri 23rd Aug 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
15 | ★★ Coco Pops | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Jugs all the way and pretty easy climbing but super runout in a couple of locations. Pretty sustained as well. Just forget the bolts and climb! Might not be the best beginner lead.
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Fri 23rd Aug 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Hammerhead Rock | ||||||
20 | ★★ Catch Of The Day | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yeah, this is a cool climb. Pretty easy but classy moves up the arret to under the roof, then a massive jug haul through the roof. I did not have the stamina to do it cleen after a year nursing the shoulder. Bolts in all the right places make it a chilled affair.
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15 | ★ Grey Nurse | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Wow, I found this hard for a 15, seemed harder than the 18s at this crag... But I think I might just have done it the hard way.
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16 | ★ Becalmed | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Start is vaguely reminiscent of English gritstone... If only it did not turn to sand under foot. Fun headwall.
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18 | ★ Hook Line And Sinker | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Awkward crux that is harder than expected looking from the ground.
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18 | ★ Chironex | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Tough little move to the 3rd bolt.
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15 | ★ Irukandji | 7m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
One move but a fun little climb.
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Mon 15th Jul 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Desperation Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Zeitgeist - with Dan | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Rain held off long enough to get up this. Fun first pitch but the second two are pretty generic. I led pitches 1 and 3, Dan led pitch 2. Skipped many bolts on the third pitch to reduce drag and eliminate backcleaning (otherwise requires about 16 draws).
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Mon 3rd Jun 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Wedding Crashers | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climb, did ok till the mantle then fell a bunch of times trying to do it the hard way on the left of the ledge. Changed the approach and got up ok in the end.
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18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
This is a good climb, it is just not so popular because of the lack of chains. Pretty sustained and easy to get all crossed up if not thinking about where you're going.
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11 | ★ Play School | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Ok beginner lead, pretty uninspiring.
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Sun 19th May 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
21 | ★★ Celluloid Hero | 15m | ★ Good | |||
As expected, hard work. This would be a whole other ball game on lead.
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14 | ★ 2 For Tea | 32m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A good climb but probably pretty average for the crag. There are a few reachy moves and there is no way that finish on the overhung headwall is a 14, closer to a 17 or so. The second last bot is in a terrible spot leading to some heinous rope drag if you're belaying up a second.
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17 | ★★ Free Range Heggs | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm going to call this one a classic. Fantastic exposure and interesting moves up some crazy rock.
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Sat 18th May 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
19 | ★★ Footprints on the Other Side | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, closely bolted so pretty chilled even when I took a fall at the crux.
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17 16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quality climb and surprising moderate given the steepness. Ironically there was a baby brown snake enjoying the sun in a hole just before the second last bolt. Keep calm, clip and carry on.
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