Ascents in Leura having Beta

Super stoked to send on the first go of the day, and on Lee Cosseys draws!

Perhaps the best 25 I've been on. Proper mega classic with beautiful climbing all the way to a satisfying crux sequence.

Always fun!

P1

Fairly close to the 2nd go dream, if only I'd spent a little more time working the final crux move. Glad to punt it twice, giving me a reason to come back and try again!

Very good route

Probably one of the best climbs I’ve done at this grade. Such fun, unique movements. Even a double Gaston ! Epic !

What a choss-fest (first pitch especially). Broke off 4 holds on the first pitch, (falling due to one of them).

Although we wonder if we were actually on the right route for the first pitch, as we didn't see any hand crack (or at least none that wasn't full of dirt and plants).

Went for the original start instead of the much cleaner looking 'Cynics United', in the hopes of getting some nice jams up the hand crack. We never found it, just a lot of loose dirt, vegetation and choss.

The upper pitches were nice though. Linked P3 and P4. Stitched up the P3 start but it's actually fine if you just traverse left rather than treating it like a roof. Awkward in a few places with a pack on. Did pretty well with rope drag up until my very last piece on P4 since I was out of long slings.

After cleaning the route, decided to get back up to get some footage and did a second clean lap putting the draws, which was pretty cool.

And it went this time =) , not in the warmup as my fingers were still frozen at the crux, but it felt pretty good second shot, the crimp and bump to the pinch was the winner beta for the crux.

Nice techy face climbing.

So close on the second try … but pumped off inches from the break.

Tough and sustained for 19 - certainly harder than Choc Chip Chai.

Read description next time, finish is hard and rewarding

Feels technical unless you are tall, solid finish with a few committing moves along the way.

Fun moves for the grade.

Good for the grade. Variety of moves, with some cruxy sections.

juggy, pumpy, technical, rewarding, asks for more repeats

Awesome flow. Oh no, last clip! Still got flash attempt.

Tried my heart out for the flash and dropped it on the last move. Sadly the fall near the roof spooked me from then on. Cool moves though

Couldn’t stick the crux. The peanut is sharp and so bad, didn’t manage to crank it hard enough to raise feet and go for the landing hold. But bumping from it to the pinch feels reachy for me, didn’t have the tension. But tickled the pinch enough to know it would be good (dammit!) Will grow some skin and come back

Great route, not the best warmup with that boulder at the start! Including the tree didn’t really make it easier for me, so ultimately went for the 100% rock option.

Another awesome day on this awesome climb, couldn't keep it together for the crux but also realised my beta for the crux isn't the most efficient, after watching Gabriele and Nodav I decided to try something different and it felt a lot better even when I was tired. Maybe next time

I had forgotten how good this climb is. Butchered the crux on second and third try and didn't have enough to send on the fourth. Will be back soon.

Amazing how sustained this is once you leave reigning. Had a hard time recovering at the rest, cold forearms! Classic mtns crimpers

Cooked

Pitched it out with Chris. So good, first time getting the top half clean - pumpy!

Don't go up for the left hand at the anchor it's no good the right is way better 😅, good warm up for some of the other crimpy stuff

What a wild route, such good flow. Some bad feet and precise moves to get you through, worked out the beta I need to get through the crux

Worked out the beta for the crux just need to climb in control and manage pump

Repeat

Repeat

First sport climb since the rotator cuff injury healing. Feeling good.

Puppy warm-up! Absolutely classic if you finish direct. Going out left doesn't look very fun