Routes in Blue Mountains

The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began.

Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint).

Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top...

Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23, especially if you are tall.

Another old aid route through a big ceiling that has now been partially freed.

1. 25m (23) Chossy corner crack for 12m to large shale covered ledge and BR. Up short corner to roof, then traverse rightwards with difficulty (small cams) to lip of roof and easy crack finish and trad belay on shale ledge.

2. 10m (10) Corner to ledge. Best linked into next pitch.

3. 13m (23/M2) Up corner then right to prow. Overhung short corner (piton scars) and out hanging wall to juggy black stuff and up to ledge. Is being attempted as a free route by Macca (2013).

4. 30m (15) Long easy black wall of horror jugs.

First of the short sport routes just left of Thumbs Down. Nice wall to start then thin crimpy finish with a tricky to clip last bolt. Convince someone else to put the draws on first!

Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.

The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.

Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical.

2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.

1. 20m (17) Easy, peasy. A mix of FHs and ringbolts. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.

2. 22m (25) Steep with a low crux, then nice moves to the top.

Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.

1. 10m (14) Up wall right of corner aiming for a small ledge below orange roof. Single old rusty carrot. Don't stop here - link this with pitch 2.

2. 8m (15) Traverse left to arete plugging good gear in the crack under the roof. Belay at rap chain (stainless).

3. 13m (-) Diagonally left to crack and old bolt belay. Mucho vegeteriano.

4. 10m (16) Crack to bolt belay.

5. 20m (-) Diagonally left for 8m then diagonally right to ledge and tree. Scramble off to the right.

The rightmost route on the ledge, starting at the first double bolt anchor, 3m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start.

Mantle onto ledge, then hard moves up flake to juggy steep climbing. Craft whatever rest you can, because the crux is clipping the anchors (though with a bit of funkiness, it can be made easier).

Resist the temptation to put a giant draw on the anchor, and step up to the challenge to earn the grade!

A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move.

The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale.

Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds)

Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean.

Short, but hilarious steep jugging up an overhanging prow.

Shares the first 5 bolts with the Project to the right, before breaking hard left.

Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump.

The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump.

Both Jason and Macca eyed this line off, nether realizing the other wanted the first ascent. Jason got in first, bolting and climbing it, then Macca did the same route on trad and called it a different name. Confused? Everyone is! The route is the crack on the buttress 2m left of Hells Bells and currently also has ringbolts - although the first has been chopped.

The major exposed black arete on the right side of Ben Trovato Wall. The line looks appealing, but even with considerable recent retrobolting (with permission from first ascentist) this route is still a bold and loose proposition. To do this all on trad like the original rock warriors would be quite the head trip. Wear helmets and take a double rack of cams from finger to fist size to supplement the ringbolts. Leave your bumbly partner at home.

1. 15m (16) A fun and popular sport pitch up the grey face at the base of the mega arete (about 20m right of the metal access rungs to Ben Trovarto Wall). Most parties rap from the ledge and climb something else - if you are a soft rock enthusiast continue reading... (and climbing)

2. 25m (19) Up the arete for a couple of bolts, then a vital #2 Camalot in a funny orange pocket then wall on left side of arete past several bolts and a couple of cams to belay on top of alarming detached block forming ledge. If you've survived the soft rock on this pitch you might as well continue upwards with a bit more air!

3. 40m (19) The money pitch - if your money comes rolled up and splattered with blood and drugs from a wild night out. Spaced cams up the narrow arete for 10m to first thankful bolt. Repeat this experience four times, being very careful with large loose rocks near the top. Belay at double rings on small ledge above roof. Either rap back to the ground here or top out via next mini pitch.

4. 8m (12) Jugs (and you) that may or may not stay attached to top of cliff and tree belay. Not much gear on this pitch.

This route originally traversed in from Colosseum Corner, possibly along the line now bolted as pitch one of Sublime & the Ridiculous, or along a lower break starting at Golden Giles. The exact way has been lost to antiquity. The described first pitch linking into the lower section of the arete direct was added by Monteith in 2010. The rest was retrobolted in early 2017.

Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing.

Start 6-8m right of Colosseum Corner, slightly down the hill at belay bolt.

1. 20m (24) Tricky start through overlap (sounds hollow; take care (or fix it)), then easier climbing up to hard crux just below anchors (8 bolts + anchors).

2. 40m (23) Thin moves off belay, then up grey and orange streak moving slightly right through small overlap, then back left and up slab to anchors (9 bolts + anchors).

3. 10m (16) The easy, chossy final pitch up to shared anchors with TSATB or topout to tree belay (1 bolt + anchors).

Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Golden Giles to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route. A 70m rope will get you down in two rappels (using the Golden Giles pitch 1 anchor).

1. 20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.

2. 35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch!

3. 20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small bulge and continue to final headwall.

Long sustained face climbing just right of Colosseum Corner on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Can lower off with a 70m (leader may have to downclimb 1m), otherwise re-thread half way down or use double ropes.

Australia's first grade 19! The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato).

2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2. Vertrees and Prior, 2013).

3. 33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.

4. 12m Corner to top, good tree belay.

"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.

The pitches are difficult to accurately and independently describe because of the way this route has been retrobolted by the other multis on the wall. The feature is very obvious and the line easy to follow so just belay where is comfortable and makes sense. The only tricky bit of route finding is at the end when you go round the corner on the left side of the main face into the gully and then across it, but as long as you remember to do that you should find the belay okay. From here it is a bit of a no gear choose your own adventure situation to the top.

1. 20m (20) A great sustained pitch - well worth doing in it's own right to the first rap anchor. The steep thin crack eats medium wires (a triple set isn't excessive). Long thought to be a whopping sandbag at grade 18, but this was because the FA actually climbed p1 of Colosseum Corner. The FA of this pitch is unknown.

2. 27m (8) Traverse left and slightly up along the ramp the whole way, passing the RB anchors of Guillotine, Marxism, Vespasian's Wall, miscellaneous ancient carrots, bomber trad, and at least one big loose block. Eventually, belay at Kizashi's DRBs, just before the ramp becomes an almost vertical corner.

3. 13m (14) Steep leftwards corner/ramp to another bolt belay.

4. 31m (-) To ledge, traverse left to nose and up to cave and old bolt belay.

5. 16m (-) Left and around corner on ledge (crawl??) to chimney/gully. Cross the gully to ledge and single carrot and trad belay.

6. 33m (-) Back right across gully onto right wall. Bulge to ledge, then left to tree. Basically no gear, often wet, harder then you want it to be.

7. 13m (-) Back of horrible chimney gully and up, or more pleasantly up the right wall of gully. Also basically no gear, often wet, and harder than you want it to be.

The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall, and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.

Starts 4m left of Ben Trovato at small tree.

1. 20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start has been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.

2. 28m (24) Fantastic climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.

Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.

Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.

1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Ben Trovato wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.

2. 8m (14) Continue up and left on easy grey ground past another bolt to cosy foot ledge and DRB. (35m to ground). You can get here more easily via Guillotine p1 if you prefer.

3. 20m (24) Step right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then take the orange streak above the guano. Currently finishes after about 20m, just below an overlap, 3m above a jug rail. This pitch is really good, on fantastic orange rock, tho you need to lower off a single ring. A proper anchor will hopefully appear some day.

The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there.

Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. A bit of an ugly duckling for the first couple of bolts - then greatly improves on sharp edges and flakes. Feet are often very minimal. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up Kizashi to it's lower anchor. Starts 5m L of VW.

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.

Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).

Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)

A long second pitch above Kizashi Extension - starting on the halfway ledge, 2m right of the vertical corner pitch of Ben Trovato (in the centre of the wall). Can be approached by climbing pitch 1 of Guillotine, Marxism or Vespasian's then traverse left along ledge to double bolt belay. The route climbs a long sustained face with a slight left trend - to eventually join into the finish of Sadomastication Pitch 3 for the last couple of bolts. Use a long sling on the first 'shared' bolt to avoid rope drag.

Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off.

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!

1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes. Considered hard for 26.

2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to Microdermabrasia, or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

3. 25m (23) Right most route off the high ledge. A bit of a pumper with big exposure! Fantastic big move to finish.

Shorter and less sustained than other routes on this section of wall. Step left off block and up face between Sadomastication and Microdermabrasia to premature low anchors. The bolted extension to the ledge is grade 25.

The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.

Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve.

One of the most obvious 'lines' on this wall and the first route bolted by Monty in the Ben Trovato Renaissance period. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.

1. 30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish (this final flake is sounding very hollow, take care (or fix it)). Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. If you are only doing the first pitch use the lower offs before the ledge. Otherwise, continue up to the giant staple.

2. 25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.

3. 30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.

Start 2m left of Microdermabrasia. Up face for a several metres, then left to big flake feature then back right and up to join Microdermabrasia about halfway up the wall. Finish as for that route.

Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.

Turns Stelvio into a more moderate super-sustained route by avoiding the top crux. Makes a good warmup for the true Stelvio.

Climb Stelvio to its 3rd last bolt, then truck right and finish up the top crux of Gavia. Stay off Exile P2's holds for the true finish.

RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high.

A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.

1. 20m (22) The holds get smaller the higher you get. At the last bolt drop down and bail left onto arete for a move before going up and right again.

2. 15m (23) Whacky traverse right on bizarre scoops for a several bolts to meet up with Microdermabrasia and then up (crux) to easy ground and belay on small ledge. This can be linked into pitch 1.

3. 25m (22) Through funny upside down corners (past fixd sling) and then follow the bolts and groovy features to belay ledge.

4. 20m (22) Stellar orange rock up thin face to the belay.

5. 5m (18) Optional short pitch to top out if required. Move up and left of final anchors past 2 bolts to big tree belay.

Some good pitches if the greenery gets cleared.

Start: This route actually starts back down on the access track to 'Sweet Dreams' (20m below 'Ben Trovato' Wall). Starts about 10m right of the cable traverse to 'Sweet Dreams' at vegetated corner.

1. 30m (-) Green corner of sorts to ledge and tree. You can skip this pitch by walking up to the base of 'Ben Trovato' Wall and walking L along the wide ledge to the crack.

2. 40m (17) Crack splitting the left side of 'Ben Trovato' Wall, to chimney. Over roof, right onto wall, up through trees then into bottom of gully.

3. 33m (-) 'Gully' to crusty bolt belay on left.

4. 13m (-) Right and up to dead tree.

5. 16m (-) 'Gully' as for 'Ben Trovato'.

Wanders all over the place!

1. 30m (-) As for pitch 1 of 'Electra'

2. 33m (-) Walk left along ledge to belay below corner.

3. 33m (14) Straight up corner/groove, bolt runner at 25' , bolt anchor at ledge.

4. 13m (-) Traverse right across wall, up and right to block.

5. 23m (-) Keep traversing right across wall, down and around nose to dead tree.

6. 62m (-) Finish up last 3 pitches of Bentrovarto or 'Electra'

Right facing arête above the right end of the cable traverse to Sweet Dreams (directly below Cloudheat - see topo) Climb the left side of arete, then switch to right side for techy finish.

Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible.

Orange thin face right of the central scoop feature. Finishes when the rock goes black and crap.

Crimpy direct line to scoops then up the scoopy bit clipping bolts to the right then finish right into top of S for Stile.

A good little warm-up - but a little sharp. In the middle of the orange wall is a line of scoops that doesn't quite make it to the ground. Start about 4m to the left of these scoops. Now trend right to the scoops and up them to first set of lower-offs.

Nail hard extension above the scoop feature. A lot of the bolts are hard to clip until at your waist. Finishes at same set of high anchors at Climbalot.

Pumpy and long. Starts 3m right of the leaning steep corner on the terrace, at low FH for belay. Nice orange wall for 3 RBs to huge dyno move, then a couple of long moves until a move left into the corner for a couple of metres. Finish right out under bulge and up orange wall.

Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls

A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching an itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.

Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so as to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go anywhere from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

A multi-pitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.

1. 27m (22) 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag.

2. 30m (21) 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'.

3. 35m (17) 12 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch.

4. 10m (15) 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

Start as for Saccharine Nightmare. Can be strung together as an epic single pitch with loads of rope drag.

1. 30m, 21, 12 bolts Traverse left about 4m from first bolt, then fun climbing following U bolts up and left to join vague arete at approx 20m. Continue up arete (bolts on right side) to DBB.

2. 30m, 17, 8 bolts . Clip first bolt from belay, then follow arete to rejoin Saccharine Nightmare toward end of 2nd pitch.

Continue to top on Saccharine Nightmare, or rap off (two ropes required). Be careful of falling into trees down low, particularly for seconds.

A direct start and variant finish to Sweet Dreams.

Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards.

Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it.

Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock.

This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare.

Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality).

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch. Without trad you will be SOLOING this pitch.

3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at one of two sets of DRBs. The right one is best for the trad corner - the left is best for the bolted grade 17 variants. Either way - this is an exposed belay to rockfall - be prepared to dodge.

5. 40m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m, move left a few moves when possible then continue up subtle trad protected corner for another 10m to low double bolt belay - or even better a massive tree belay another 10m up the hill. Technically this is called the 'Variant Finish' but is the common way this route is now done.

The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website.

The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below.

Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15.

Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams.

A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.

1. 20m (13) Pitch 1 of Sweet Dreams (ring bolts + slings)

2. 30m (12) Pitch 2 of Sweet Dreams (cams - no bolts)

3. 30m (12) Pitch 3 of Sweet Dreams to end of traverse and double RB belay. Continue past the first set of DRB to the second set 8m further. (ring bolts)

4. 35m (17) Pitch 3 of Saccharine Nightmare (12 ringbolts)

5. 10m (14) Pitch 4 of Saccharine Nightmare (3 ringbolts)

From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams take the left line of ringbolts up the blunt arete - either finish direct up the corner (trad) or traverse left at 15m into top pitch of Saccharine Nightmare (bolts).

1. 20m

2. 20m

3. 28m

4. 8m

5. 16m

6. 25m

From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams climb the ringbolted face just left of the corner. At 15m this joins into top corner finish of Sweet Dreams (trad required).

The original way this route was done in 1963 - but now not recommended due to rockfall risk on parties below.

1. 20m (14) - Climb Sweet Dreams pitch 5 corner for 15m then traverse right for 4m to large ledge (big loose blocks). Belay off large cams.

2. 10m (10) Overhung chossy crack above belay ledge. Be very careful not to rip anything onto parties below.

Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'.

Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB.

Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free.

Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'.

A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.

1. 50m (14) As for pitches 1 and 2 of 'Sweet Dreams' with 1 BR at the start and 1 BR just before the double rings in corner. Caution: Massive rope drag!

2. 20m (14) Ignore bolts out right on Sweet Dreams and climb the corner direct (past an old rusty bolt 8m up) then continue on easy grey wall right of corner to large ledge and single rusty BR and small tree. You can belay here (with a bit of jiggery pokery - or link into next pitch).

3. 20m (15) Up slab above ledge then into vegetated corner (you can stem around the worst bits) to a short chimney (fixed hex with orange sling in the back of corner and an old shitty BR towards the front). Some people belay here but it is much nicer to continue up for another 5m onto large loose rock ledge on the right. Trad belay on medium cams and wires.

4. 15m (15) Traverse horizontally right with epic exposure and good cams to base of black corner and trad belay. You can join this pitch into the next pitch.

5. 25m (16) Up the sandy corner and at top exit right onto ledge (poor pro) and scramble up vegetation to tree belay.

Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.

1. 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right.

2. 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB.

3. 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimise rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB.

4. 23m (21) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB.

5. 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!).

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off.

Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

1. 25m (19) Tough move through first rooflet then head right around arête and diagonally up face to ledge and 2 Ubolt belay on right.

2. 25m (18) 2 Ubolts then stainless glued carrots from now on. Traverse left and out to arête. Up this to first cave and DBB hidden around to the left.

3. 25m (19) The money pitch. Exposed! Up right easily to second cave then up and out left to overhung arête, up to semi hanging belay on small ledge and 3BB.

4. 35m (19) Up arête past two BRs to cave and double U bolts. You can belay here or clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

5. 35m (16) Right and up on ironstone plates over roof past Ubolts on left, then diagonally R to top and tree belay well back.

Start: Scramble up and left 60m from Knights Mare.

1. 27m (-) Corner to tree.

2. 33m (16) Corner to bulge. Around this on right wall then corner and chimney.

Start: On wall, just right of "Achilles Crack".

1. Wall to ledge and boulder belay.

2. (crux) Right to overhanging corner then piton belay.

3. Traverse by crawling left through slot (Can it get any worse!? -Ed). Rusted remains of piton belay.

4. Up wall to tree.

5-7) Up slightly right to ledge and rotten buttress above to top.

"A good climb up a steep direct line." [JME]

Start: 300m left of landslide at crack running right to the top of a broken black wall.

1. Wall and scrub to tree belay at base of crack.

2. (crux) Wall to top of chimney, around overhang into crack above and tree belay.

3. Over overlap up rotten rock to rock belay.

4. Crack and chimney-gully to tree belay on ledge.

5. "A small cliffline above provides interest."

"A one pitch climb and that could probably be avoided." [JME]

Start: To left of "Achilles Crack"

1. 30m (crux) Up to bolt before bulge, left across overhang then left to tree. 2-5) 80m Easy climbing as you will to the top.

Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes (300m) left of Whymper. After you drop down into a 3rd red shale cave, the route starts 30m further on, at the base of an undercut buttress, marked by a cairn. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).

1. 35m 19 Either hard start or step off tree then up easing wall. A few loose holds here, take helmets!

2. 30m 18 Up steep orange wall and right to slab. Walk to belay on wall right of cave. 3 rings so you can space yourselves.

3. 25m 20 Up thin slab and roof.

4. 10m 10 Up dirty slab, left to ledge, belay here so the secondcan see the leader on the next pitch

5. 10m 17 one move tricky wall.

Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark.

"Garbage Gully is the gully between Apollo to the left and "Knight's Mare" to the right." [JME] (Or it was in 1967 - Ed.)

Start: 3-400 yds left of "Achilles Crack"

1. "90' Hand traverse for 15' across to stream and scramble up through stream and round to right hand wall and tree belay." [BA] (See, it did get worse!! - Ed.)

2. 90 ' traverse 30' right to wall then back left to crack.

3. 90' Continue crack above to gully and block belay.

"One of the longest climbs on the cliff, and undoubtedly the most rotten. Absolutely appalling. A masterpiece of decaying chunder, mank and rubbish." [JME]

Start: At a creek, normally with water flowing. A huge black wall to the left.

1. Across waterfall to ledge ...

2. Up a series of rotten yellow walls, into and out of caves. .. Take an ice axe.

5-7) Minor improvements to top

"A great climb, one of the best on the cliff. Exposed and sustained wall climbing. Bloody good. Excellent rock." [JME]

Start: The climb takes a line up the great black wall left of the creek where Apollo starts. Scramble up 30m from left to scrubby ledge.

1. (crux) 25m Straight up near centre of wall below small break in overhangs (Ewbank, Zemek 1964) or original start diagonally up from the right.

2. Traverse left to bolt belay.

3. 30m Up slight ramp left then straight up to bolt in cave. "Good view" [JME]

4. Out of cave via wall on right and up slight overhang to tree belay on ledge.

2nd line of ringbolts left of the major arete. Up easy mega flake to start then long wall with crimpy reachy crux. Run it out on fragile jugs to high anchor.

This prominent arete beckons from above and below. Start on left side of arete on orange face. Trend right and up face to reach arete about half way up wall. Finish up jugs to high anchor.

Start: About 10m scramble below Guilty Remnant at a traverse line clearly marked S-D.

1. 7m (?) Hand traverse right under yellow overhang. Up on jug on nose. Up and right to belay.

2. 6m (?) Straight up on top of an obvious block, belay to the right.

3. 33m (?) Up 6m to right of overhang. Traverse left around lip of overhang and up to ledge.

4. 22m (?) Easy buttress on right (originally 2 pitches).

Original description below

Varied climbing and short pitches.

The climb goes up the end cliff line.

Scramble down to red ledge. Continue down through scrub and gully to a scrubby ledge. Along this for about 100 yds around buttress to below big corner. Scramble to it and tree anchor.

1. 10m (Crux) Up 4m to left onto grass then delicate moves back right into layback crack. Peg runner then up layback 6m to tree anchor.

2. 35m Straight up to tree anchor on left.

3. 10m Up slab to base of chimney.

4. 10m Novel. Up four sided chimney onto ledge. Scramble off or finish up Slurp.

Quite a fine short climb. Start: Directly above the finish of Burp at a direct fierce looking crack.

1. 16m Up into cave and jamb anchor.

2. 16m Out over roof of cave, bolt runner, rejoin crack chimney and up to top.

Start: Unknown "at middle of cliff" at chimney set well back on right side of big scoop.

1. 7m (?) Ferny crack, step right and up nose.

2. 11m (?) Right and up crack, right 3m, up then back across top of crack to big ledge.

3. 12m (?) Scramble wide ledge and scrub to chimney.

4. (?) Chimney until it narrows and out to crack. Up to within 2m of top. Left to finish.

Start: 22m right of Subterranean, "at small cairn".

1. 10m Rising leftward traverse, through re-entrant corner, out onto nose, then directly up to good tree anchor via nose and wall on left.

2. 24m Move 4m right from belay. Climb wall and crack until immediately below a hollow-looking canopy. Pull-up past this overhang (crux) then right, around nose, and up wall to base of large green gully and tree anchor. Bolt runner offers protection on 'thin' part of wall above crux.

3. 12m Climb arete at right of gully, through to top of cliffs.

Landmark orange off-width corner in centre of crag. Stem baby stem (no thrutching required). Protected by a heady mix of bolts and trad. Bring cams between #0.25 Camalot to the biggest you can find, and some slings. Save a 0.75 green Camalot for the exciting very last move over the rooflet. Double rap rings at top - lowering off is possible. This route was originally climbed using homemade tubes in the heady days of the 70s. The direct finish over the rooflet was done in 2014.

Thin face on the wall right of Gormenghast. Finish up right arete to lower-off.

Three carrots with home made hangers at 1m intervals heading to the arete share the same start.

Start: Just left of Subterfuge Direct on the right of a gully.

1. 10m Either start up a toe-jamming crack or easier wall to left. Continue up the corner using isolated jugs to a large ledge.

2. 24m Continue more or less straight up the wall in a series of steps.

Start: Below the "interesting looking" crack-cum-corner 100m from the southern extremity of the cliffline. An ancient carrot is visible on the wall at the top of a 10m pillar. Location -33.739221, 150.338145.

1. 10m Up either side of the pillar to a bolt anchor.

2. 18m (crux) A bolt protects the awkward move up into the corner and "piton runners may be placed wherever desired". Move up to block belay under roof.

3. 30m Move right, then up past the tree, up short wall then left along ledge. Up the wall once more to belay on broad ledge.

4. 18m Up the broken wall, across wide ledge, then up final 10m to the top.

Start: The right hand nose of a scrubby gully to the right of Subterfuge Direct. Climb up 3m to bottom of first pitch.

1. 18m Start to right of large belay tree . Up a bit, traverse to the nose then up to an obvious ledge with block belay.

2. 12m Up the left-hand wall, moving back to nose for a runner, then up to belay ledge.

3. 12m Up broken wall to tree, then continue up the final block to belay

Start: 10m right of Conscious.

1. 22m Up middle of the wall as you will to below the overhang. Escape to right and belay.

2. 10m Left and onto the wall above the overhang, then up to belay ledge.

3. 12m Up broken wall, etc. as for Pitch 3 of Conscious.

A better climb than it looks from below.

Location around -33.739955, 150.338314

Start: About 50m from the right end of the cliffline beneath an isolated pinnacle set well back behind scrub.

1. 12m Up to the base of the pinnacle as you will.

2. 6m (crux) Climb the crack on the left side of the pinnacle. Well protected with jamb runners.

3. 4m Walk up ramp to belay below chimney.

4. 18m Up chimney to beneath chockstone traverse right then up on loose dubious looking blocks to a small knobbly wall. Belay on large ledge.

Location unknown.

This is the corner crack below the chockstone abseil in Butterbox Canyon. To access this route you must go through the canyon. See the canyoning online guides for information on Butterbox Canyon.

This is the first corner crack, located to the right after you exit the main constriction, jump 2m into water, and swim across the pool.

Gear required: Double rack of cams sized from your smallest to #4. Triples in #0.75, #1, #2 recommended. A standard rack of nuts.

1. 40m (19) Excellent climbing. Start on the right, and climb to a small ledge 5m up. Then 35m straight up, belay on large ledge. Save a #4 for about 2/3 height. Had minor seep at the start during the FA. Some gardening may be required depending on how much traffic the route gets. You will need cams in the 0.75 - 3 size range to build the belay, and you will likely want to use those sizes elsewhere.

2. 20m (18) Great climbing up a #0.75-3 crack. Belay at next ledge.

3. 10m (17) Continue up the crack to the top.

The exit involves walking up a steep scrubby slope (burnt out a few years ago) and wandering between various broken cliff lines, before walking along a ridge back to the Butterbox Canyon track.

Exit route used to get out of Butterbox Canyon that doubles as the access to the bottom for all of the climbing routes. One short (~12m) section of technical climbing (or an abseil when descending) that is massively overbolted.

Stiff moves for the original grade (8) especially with a pack on and canyon gear. The traverse on a sketchy ledge that leads up to the climb has also been bolted. Bolts can be used to rig a traverse line.

A long, adventurous route up a prominent line. Some good exposure and excellent long pitches. Rock is of mixed quality, but bad sections can be avoided. Several pitches are broken up by 50m hikes up steep, loose, vegetated sections which can be quite taxing when added to the length of the climb. Rope drag can be a problem on some of the long pitches, and can be mitigated with twin ropes of at least 60m in length (but be careful of rope tangling during the hikes). Be sure to bring at least a full rack of Cams up to #5 (possibly doubles up to #3), wires, plenty of slings, and optionally a set of hexes (good placements on last pitch). Helmets are a must against loose rock/vegetation, and headlamps are recommended. Starting from the 8th pitch there are a few carrot bolts (slightly off-route) so bring a few bolt plates in case you want to use them.

1. 13m (13) Marked start of the climb. A tricky and rather poorly protected traverse left leads to a large cave (good gear to protect second), walk left past a loose block to a belay out on the arete.

2. 35m (9) A long and pleasant pitch up the nice tortoise shell wall above, getting easier with height. Wire and cam belay.

3. 42m (11) Step up on top of the large flat block, place some gear at the back of the scoops, then step right to steep and juggy moves. These lead up for about 8m to a bushy ledge. Walk left along this, slightly down around the arete and left for approximately 30 metres across an easy wall to a tree below a crack through the bulge. Tree belay. Rope drag on this pitch is a serious concern.

4. 55m (9) A really enjoyable and surprisingly long pitch. Head up the crack for a couple of metres then step out onto the right face. A long and juggy wall awaits, with a variety of gear. Tree belay on the halfway ledge. Follow the track up or 40m to the start of the upper cliffline.

5. 58m (9) Start on the juggy face just to the right of the short right facing offwidth corner crack in the block. Another long, juggy and really enjoyable slab, with some good exposure up higher and well spaced but adequate protection. Go up for about 15m, left and up onto next slab, right at the top to avoid steep bit. Rope drag this pitch is a serious issue. Can be mitigated with double ropes. Walk up to next cliff.

6. 55m (13) An excellent pitch and one of the hardest on the route. Up the lovely corner above, then up two lovely little 5m finger size layback cracks above that. Tree belay.

7. 35m (13) Climb the initially vegetated, but nice corner up to the big roof, then traverse left to the arete. Straight up this, using the face on either side when it blanks out (take care of the hollow flakes on the right of the arete). A #5 Camalot is highly recommended for this section. Continue up to small tree and mid size cam belay. Walk 25m right to the obvious chossy chimney and a poor belay off a small tree.

8. 30m (8) Up the chossy and unpleasant chimney for 8m or so (some pro in crack in left wall), then traverse out right on the easy ledge to big exposure being careful to avoid the flakes and weakened rock. Up the short wall to the next ledge, then crawl back left to the belay cave. Ridiculous rope drag is inevitable on this pitch, but can be mitigated with double ropes. Very poor belay off a single small thread in choss at the back of the cave. The second should exercise extreme care on this pitch, since a fall could blow the belay. There is good gear 1m higher on the left wall of the crack to beef up the belay. NOTE: There is a bomber thread inside the cave that goes from the bottom right (facing in) up the back to the outside of the cliff, a 120cm, thin (Dyneema) sling is required to reach and fit through the little hole. a poking stick helps too.

9. 30m (6) Step left onto the easy wall, place a #4.5 or #5 Camalot just above the roof then easily up a dirty groove to the final ledge. A single carrot bolt sits at the bottom of the off-width crack for belay. Walk 20m right to the end of the ledge and the base of the final pitch, twin rings for belay. NOTE: Pitches 8 and 9 can be linked by continuing straight up the wide corner above the chimney, instead of traversing right. This is a much better alternative, though a little runout.

10. 30m (9) Step up and right onto a small ledge below a left leading groove. Delicate stemming up the groove leads to a banksia tree and a final small ledge. Good gear in lovely crack on right then step up and over final 8 foot wall to the top. Twin rings for belay. Walk right 30m until you meet Canyon exit track, and follow this back to the carpark.

This climb takes the prominent ridge left of MR that can be seen standing at the top of the original 12 metre “Mt. Hay Canyon exit” climb.

A few pitches may appear harder than the crux, which some leaders have found alarming. Individually, no pitch should be harder than grade 15.

Start about 200m left of MR at a wall with a hollow the shape of a 5 foot upside down pear (also looks like a map of Tasmania according to Jon).

1. 45m Climb directly over pear hollow onto ledge and right though small overhang. Up slabs to tree belay.

2. 35m Up easy slabs and onto right wall to tree belay.

3. 10m Walk right and down around arete traversing to corner and down climb corner to large tree belay.

4. 35m Climb offwidth/chimney corner and slab using horizontal friend placements and chock stone for runners. Over shorter corner above. Tree belay.

5. 12m Up short overhanging crack to halfway ledge. (Walk diagonally leftward towards the main ridge to some short slabs. You should be on the right side of the main ridge.)

6. 18m Up slabs and left onto ledge.

7. 40m Climb 2m onto shale ledge and easy crawl/walk traverse left onto black slabs. Carefully move left over large loose block to arete. Climb arete then move back right, over chossy mantel and harder mantel near top to ledge.

8. 20m (Crux) Climb face onto ledge below yellow corner crack. Climb chossy overhanging corner (good friend protection). Belay in slight cave on ledge.

9. 40m Up wall left of slanting crack over various slabs. Tree belay. (scramble to next cliff and walk left 10m)

10. 25m Climb unprotected slab between two good looking corners (right corner climbed). Move right and easily leftward to ledge. Backside friction belay. (Move right 10m to start next pitch)

11. 30m Up slabs to offwidth corner to top.

Hayden Brotchie & Jon Castley (Alt leads) 6-12-97 & 7-12-97

Note: Access from the halfway ledge is also possible and can be achieved without a rope. It is a little slippery in one place and is not recommended.

A shorter route that neither starts from the bottom or finishes at the top. 2nd and 3rd ascents have done alternative pitches to 4 & 5 going to the left and right - reportedly offering good climbing. The loose pinnacle rock could not be found. Best to just climb where you like to the ledge.

Start at the half way ledge about 50m left of Margarine Ridge at a clean 12m high slab.

1. 18m Up slab past bolt runner near top. Tree Belay.

2. 16m Climb right to bolt runner and up to ledge.

3. 30m Move left and up middle of wall to ledge. Walk right and up juggy overhang to belay on ledge.

4. 35m Move left and up juggy wall and carefully over rocking pinnacle. Up to ledge.

5. 15m Up easy juggy rock to overhang. Awkward move onto ledge. (The climbing finishes here. Move 20m right and continue on Margarine Ridge)

Hayden Brotchie, Bryden Allen (alt. Lead) 28-11-97

The first climb on the lower black slab (wall really) left of Margarine Ridge. Relatively clean rock and good protection all the way makes for enjoyable climbing. The aid move can be easy done with a long sling and will eventually go free probably at 19-21. (Note: Has been freed by Andrew Jones – single move Grade 21)

Start: About 40m left of Margarine Ridge (lower tier) in middle of black wall at right facing flack\crack.

1. 20m. (14m1) Up crack to ledge, sling bolt for aid move. Clip BR moving right on ramp to V groove. Up groove BR and left on wall. Tree Belay.

2. 12m. (14) Up wide corner crack to ledge, move right around nose. Up to small foot ledge on wall. Bomber No.3, 0.5 Camalot and high nut for belay. Take time with belay.

3. 22m. (17) Up to bolt and climb headwall near left arete. Tree Belay.

4. 22m. (10) Up groove and juggy wall. Tree belay.

5. 13m. (3) Ramble over jug city to the bushy halfway ledge.

Hayden Brotchie, Jim Croft (alt Lead) 2/8/98

Various finishes exist - The start of Middle Slab (16) is approx 30m left, Margarine Ridge (13) is to the right or simply walk back to the Mt Hay Canyon Exit (8).

Mostly short, generally easy pitches but with a great 5th pitch (the eponymous pitch). This climb has not received many repeats, so be particularly careful if you plan to attempt the route.

The climb starts about 750m right (facing out) from the base of the Mt Hay canyon exit climb (head right soon after doing a short abseil off a big ring bolt). The start is on a small belay ledge about 5m up, about 20m past a small creek fed from a wide, dripping waterfall high up on the cliff.

1. 15m (16) A nice technical start to the climb. Orange corner left of belay. Hard moves up the corner, then easier up the flake/crack and a gully to a tree belay to the left.

2. 35m (walk) Walk and scramble up and left, then up a short corner to the base of the second short corner.

3. 10m (10) Easy wall right of corner to long, narrow ledge below nice black ironstone slab

4. 18m (15 R) Easily up unprotected black ironstone slab (numerous variants) to small ledge (piton up high to the left). Crank up short, steep wall (crux) on thin chickenheads to atmospheric belay ledge under roof (BB and cams). NOTE: Pitches 3 and 4 could be linked quite easily into a single pitch.

5. 60m (15 R) The money pitch that the route is named after. Traverse right from the belay (be careful of the thin plates below where the ledge runs out), over the bulge on jugs then up the long slab above with sparse and wandery gear (double ropes recommended). Tree belay on halfway ledge. NOTE: This is a full 60m pitch - on the FA, the second started simulclimbing before the leader had reached the halfway ledge, which (given the minimal pro) was a tad "exciting". After the FA, a BB was added in the middle of this pitch, allowing it to be led as two pitches on a 50m rope instead (and making it safer if led as a single pitch).

6. 30m (walk) Walk up halfway ledge to a pleasant belay under a small roof.

7. 15m (10) Step right onto block then up to ledge. Up pleasant slab to ledge (tree belay).

8. 25m (walk) Walk up and left to small ledge below hollow corner.

9. 5m (13) Up hollow corner into cave (small cam with runner out onto face), then back onto the overhanging face and up to ledge.

10. 20m (walk) Walk up and left to chossy cave. NOTE: From here on, the climb follows the easiest line to the top of the cliff, thereby avoiding a lot of the great looking rock on offer to the right. It is expected that a better, direct finish could be done beginning here, and heading out to the right on the nice looking slabs.

11. 25m (8) Step left and up around arete to ledge, Straight up buttress (or walk up at left hand end). Scramble up to ledge below chossy roof.

12. 25m (10) Walk left along ledge below chossy roof, then easily up blocks to base of pleasant black slab. Left and up the black slab to belay ledge below steep orange wall.

13. 15m (12) Up choss to layback crack on right. Pleasant layback to top (tree belay 15m back).

To walk out, head up and right, passing an unusual "inverted V" cave. Keep heading right until the open heath is reached, at which point continue straight up the ridge top, up a short, steep white slab and over the top to the walking track. Walking time to the carpark: 20 minutes.

Alternative finish to Monks Wall, extending the climbing by 2 pitches.

From P10 belay of Monks Wall, climb straight up and right of chossy cave, better protected than any previous pitch. Once past the roof, follow the crack trending back left above the belay, and actually re-join the original Monks Wall route and probably belaying in the same spot. About 30m, grade 15 ish.

Another 10-15m of climbing straight up a short wall, leads to bush bashing up steep dirt. It's about 50m to good trees where the angle eases enough to un-rope.