Booroomba Rocks Guide

Climb the block, leap the void onto the boulder - scramble to the top and retrace your steps. Once an initiation climb for the area and must only be climbed in volleys. Somewhat spookier now that it is mossy, but at least there's a log plugging the gap again.

Climb the rightward leaning diagonal line of holds with four bolts. Pull round onto the arete and up easily to a bolt belay.

Batman start. Excellent moves on an overhanging dyke of smooth granite on mostly big holds. 27 or 28.

One of Booroomba's first modern face climbs, it takes a thin crack up the overhanging wall.

Painful slabbing. Start three metres right of 'The Promised Land'. Climb past 4 bolts, breaking through the pain barrier at the second.

The outstanding curving line 30 meters to the left. An easy start... But then the crack fades out.

Two blocks right of High Roller is a good bolted route up the disappearing flake (gear to start).

The middle line, overtaken by blackberries and leaves at last sight. A slabby start, then progressively thinner.

A deceptively easy-looking rightwards-leaning crack just right of a pile of boulders forming a small cave.

The arete right of Crackers.

The crag warm-up on nicely featured rock. From Crackers head right 20m, round the next bolted arete and across the small gully.

The third crack from the left on 'five cracks wall'. Up the groove to the bulge then up the finger crack to the top. Tape recommended.

The fourth crack from the left on 'Five Cracks Wall' (a few metres right of 'Indelible Murtceps') with an overhanging start. Up past a tree to a chimney and hand crack.

Start in the corner to the right of 'Five Cracks Wall'. Up the chimney to a ledge. Continue to a chockstone then swing left.

The chimney right of 'Tears of Rage'.

The corner ramp with a crack just right of 'Elendil'.

The crack on the left wall of the large corner 10 metres right of 'Mordor'. Climb up the corner on the right, then back left into the crack and up. The direct start up the crack makes it even better, but a fair bit harder. Gear to blue camalot.

The chimney corner two metres right of 'Plastic Appearance', starting at a crack four metres right of the corner.

At the bottom of the descent track is a small roof split by a hand crack. Resist the temptation to jump on this climb just because it is the first one you see walking down to the south buttress; this route is responsible for putting more people off crack climbing than any other! If you must join the hall of fame, climb to the roof and up into the crack above. Strenuous.

Eight metres to the left of Euryproctus is a large flake leaning against the cliff. An awkward move to start, then easily to the top of the flake. Swing left into the corner and up the crack.

Start beneath the curving flake three metres right of Running Crack. Up the wall and flake then lunge right into a groove. Alternatively go straight up the wall from the top of the flake.

A good intro to jamming. The crack 10 metres left of Big Flake; many people continue with the second pitch of Marmalade.

The crack left of Running Crack - just not quite as good, and often slower with all the bushes.

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

Takes a steeper and harder line right of A Little Dab'll Do Ya. Start at the tree and climb straight up past a crack and right to a bolt; move left and up to the sling belay below Dangermouse.

Start three metres right of Integral Crack. Up past incipient cracks to a nest of protection just right of Integral (shared with The Naked Chef), then up to a bolt. Slab up to the break and traverse right along it. Belay below Dangermouse.

Sharp arete left of the top pitch of Marmalade with four or five bolts. Rap station at the top.

A derivative route cooked up by Jamie and Oliver that combines a direct start to A Little Dab'll Do Ya with a continuation up the headwall to the right of Integral (six bolts plus gear).

Start 2m right of Integral. Up past a bolt to join ALDDY at the gear placements right of Integral. Follow ALDDY past another bolt and up the slab above. Follow the line of least resistance and most gear to the right and then back left to the first bolt on the headwall. Up past three more bolts.

First ascent done with supplementary gear in Integral to make it to the headwall - another bolt now removes the need for this.

The headwall can also be climbed independently by starting from the base of Dangermouse and traversing left to the line of bolts.

One of the absolute classics. Considered by many to be the best line at Booroomba, noting that much of the climbing is actually face climbing rather than pure crack. Excellent natural protection. Start eight metres left of Marmalade at the slabby crack. Take lots of wires and some medium sized cams to belay. There is a rap station off to the right, above Dangermouse.

Originally un-bolted, which caused some controversy when the climb was retroed! An unlikely line up the sustained wall three metres left of Integral Crack. Straight up the wall following the line of least resistance. Originally protected using Integral Crack, it now goes on the bolts - with a couple of finger cams adding extra protection.

A fine addition between No Beans and Roy's Crack. Sustained desperation. Bring your best rubber and lots of draws. There is an anchor station at the top. Double ropes are required for rap.

When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity.

Good sustained climbing with a reachy crux. Start at the thin crack two metres left of Roy's Crack. Straight up to the overlap, pull through into the crack and traverse right and up to the first bolt. Hard moves past this and the second bolt on enhanced holds, then up past two more bolts. Finish as for Moral Turpitude up the corner to the left, or up and right to the 'Equanimity' anchor.

A bold undertaking that was one of the first of the bolted routes at Booroomba. The placing of bolts caused some significant controversy at the time. Start as for Ruffles at the thin crack.

1. 30m - Up the crack to the overlap, then left to a break just before the arete. Up over the bulge, then up the wall past two bolts to another bulge. Move right to belay below the short corner crack.

2. 15m - Up the corner crack to finish.

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the right-hand side. Up the vertical face for five metres. A hard move to pull over onto the slab, up the slab then vertical wall with sloping ramp. A tricky move to exit the face onto the top of the slab above. Head left up the slab to finish at the same anchor as African Walking Tree. 30m rap to ground.

An absolute classic and possibly the best at the grade at Booroomba. A steep start up the right wall of Square Gully, a few metres left of 'Don't You Know I'm Loco'. Climb the wall past two bolts (crux) and onto the slab. Follow the ramp and keep moving left into a corner system. Up to a double bolt belay.

Takes a thin corner system high on the right wall of Square Gully. Start opposite Modern Times. Teeter across the slab to a series of flakes and a corner. Follow this, trending left towards the top.

A 'horrible subterranean grovel suitable only for troglodytes and masochists'. Scramble up the bed of the gully until confronted by a chimney.

1. 10m - Squirm up the chimney and over chockstones to a ledge (DBB).

2. 20m - Scramble up the gully until it again becomes a chimney. Ascend the chimney and belay in the "bowels of the earth" six metres back.

3. 20m - Move out left above the chockstones and scramble for 12 metres up the gully or ridge on the right. 3a. 15m - Variant finish. From "the bowels of the earth" chimney up and exit by a small hole in the roof.

Quite good, complete with overhead protection and escape jugs. This is the ramp/corner at the extreme right-hand end of the left wall.

Quite good if you like loose blocks and slapstick humour. Start at the corner two metres left of Gentlemen of Nerve. Up the corner then right through the blocky overhang to the top.

Nice wall climbing. Start one metre left of Cruel, Cruel Love. Up the wall past four bolts to the left hand end of the roof, then step left around the arete and make some easier moves up to the top.

Up wall past four bolts as for Modern Times to overlap / roof. Clip a bolt on the lip then blast up the headwall on jugs. Double rings to belay and rap.

Start as for Modern Times, at the edge of the boulder above the belay. Clip the first bolt on Modern Times. Step left past a second bolt, then up the vague open-book corner past some gear. Up the blunt arete past another bolt then more easily to the top.

Start at the dark hole at the edge of the ledge halfway up Square Gully. Crank out left along the jugs and slip, slide and heel hook up the crack.

A bit loose and poorly protected. Start below the small corner midway along the left wall of Square Gully. Up the thin corner to an easy crack on the front of the buttress. Follow this to a big ledge, then scramble off.

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the left (North) side. Up the very-open book corner past 4 bolts, staying out of the darker rock of Jack of Diamonds. Pull over onto easier ground and up right to belay as for Peter Pan. Gear required above the fourth bolt. 30m rap into gully from a flat-topped boulder near the head of the gully.

A good climb on excellent rock. The moves from the top of the block are delicate and poorly protected, hence "Peter's Pan(ic)". Start left of Square Gully at a wide, rounded crack.

1. 11m - Climb the crack to a ledge next to a large block leaning against the face.

2. 37m - Up to the top of the block (large sling) and step onto the face - awkward for shorties - climb up for a few moves and then right to a thin crack. Up this to the top and what was a tree belay but now requires a topout.

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

A "worthless and contrived girdle which follows the line of least resistance off the ground". Starts up Peter Pan and traverses the South Buttress from right to left finishing up Matrix. Apparently ties a lot of good stuff together.

A reachy little boulder problem on sharp holds. Start four metres left of and down from Peter Pan. Boulder up to and past the bolt to a thin crack. Up this and cruise to the top via Peter Pan or Confessions of a Stripper.

Nice moves but contrived. Start from the first belay of Peter Pan under a faint corner and a bolt. Up to the bolt, make a move right, then straight up to a horizontal break. Straight up the steep slab from here (keep out of Peter Pan!), stopping once more to place some protection. A good alternative is to move left into Purple Haze at the break.

See description above.

The sad result of an ambitious but thwarted attempt on the vertical wall above the ledge, giving Booroomba's second climb. Start 10 metres left of Peter Pan, below twin cracks with some leaning blocks at the base.

1. 18m - Climb the left crack to the large ledge on the left.

2. 12m - Move left across the ledge between the face and the large detached block and climb down the other side to the bottom of Jack's Crack.

Only a couple of hard moves, but they make the climb worthwhile. Gary Scott did the first section in 1977 but avoided the crux by traversing into Peter Pan along the horizontal break. Start midway along Rise and Fall where a small odd-shaped pinnacle allows access right onto the arete. Step off the pinnacle onto jugs and move right around the arete into a dyke-crack system. Up this and the wall above to the cracks at the top of Peter Pan.

Well protected and reasonably steep. Start just right of the big block and small spike at the top of Rise and Fall. Climb up the wall (without using the spike) past two bolts. Up the ramp to a third bolt, then move left slightly and up to some runners. Continue up the steep wall on good holds past another bolt, pull onto the slab and wander up to a tree belay.

Believed to have been done in the dark ages, but no one wrote it up. Start left of Rise and Fall at a poxy looking wall below and slightly right of a bush. Climb the wall, then the flake just right of the bush. Belay at the Purple Haze pinnacle.

Looks gross. Start at the off-width left of Rise and Fall. Up this and the shallow groove above the small roof.

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

The poxy crack and chimney two metres left of Nirvana.

Tackles the steep orange wall starting left of the finish of 'Rise and Fall' (and 10m left of its start). Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

Another good steep wall. Start five metres left of Static Cling, part-way up Jack's Crack. Place a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

Worryingly loose. Marked start halfway up Jack's Crack. Follow the ramps up and right, eventually passing a bolt on Static Cling, then traverse back left to a ledge and step right past a balanced flake. Stop worrying, then go straight to the top.

So named because of Crushed's penchant for kangaroos (and vice versa). The obvious line left of Surface to Air; protection is dubious in places. Start as for Surface to Air. Climb Jack's Crack for a few moves until able to step back right into the line. Up this, with hard moves at the start, to a thin crack below a sloping ledge and onto the final ramp.

This is the easy angled, slanting crack 15 metres left of Rise and Fall. Scramble up a tree to start, walk up to another tree then up the crack.

Start 10 metres below and just to the left of Jack's Crack. A pathetic rising traverse left across a slab, then up a short corner. Scramble to the top as for the second pitch of Overhang Corner.

Start 10 metres right of Overhang Corner. Climb the crack to a good ledge. Move left and up the crack for four metres, through the bushes to a large block and up to a tree to finish.

Originally a worthless aid climb called Rurp Crack, now a 'worthless free climb'. It was freed by John Smart with a bridge move against the tree and graded 21 but on the second ascent it was found to be 24 without the tree. Start at the thin crack three metres left of Blood Lust. Extreme start and hard moves to overcome the bulge at the top.

Another obscure route. Start at the thin corner eight metres right of Overhang Corner. Up the thin corner and over the blocks at the top.

The first pitch is quite good, but the second is rubbish. Luckily you can just do P1 and rap down from the chain at the top of Cold Cuts. Start (crux) in the corner ten metres right of Aitchison's Needle.

1. 12m - Climb the corner crack to a huge ledge.

2. 20m - Traverse right then up to a tree. Scramble to the top.

Traverses left under the prominent overhang. Originally aided (16M3). Start at the top of the first pitch of Overhang Corner. Climb up to the roof. The crackless roof section is bypassed by climbing back down the vertical crack and traversing left along a weakness to about halfway, then climbing back up to the roof. A tricky end follows, then up to a belay on a bushy ledge.

From the ledge at the top of Overhang Corner, clmb up the orange crack and wall to the roof. Traverse left as for the original.

Start just left of Overhang Corner. Up the wall past one bolt, then more easily up the arete and a short wall to finish.

The slightly overhung wall with two bolts, opposite Aitchison's Needle. A hard bouldery start if you're short.

Shorter and slightly less appealing than its Scottish namesake. Up the vegetated line about three metres left of Cold Cuts.

Up Green Gully for a few metres, then traverse left (crux) and up.

Booroomba's first climb. The prominent pinnacle of rock standing a short distance out from the main face. It is climbed on its left edge as seen looking out from the main cliff.

A 'totally worthless addition'. The arete with a bolt on Aitchison's Needle, opposite the ordinary route; at last report, the bolt was falling out.

A pleasant pitch of jamming spoiled by too many ledges. The left-facing corner crack with a bush at its base, eight metres left of Aitchison's Needle. Climb up this to a large ledge and continue up to the roof. Diagonally left to join Possum and move right and up to the huge ledge. Finish up Possum or Carezzissima.

An alternate finish that is less contrived than the original. From the pillar at the start of the roof pull right up the flake and mossy wall above to the Possum ledge.

Exposed with an exciting finish. Climb up the third pitch of Possum, then traverse left for five metres past some dubious blocks and up the steepening ramp of blocks. The finish over the top is awkward and can be avoided by a short, bracing hand traverse left.

Jug hauling up the 'vast expanse of rock' between Carezza and Possum. Start on the ledge a few metres above the ground. A bouldery start through the overlap, then more easily up the unprotected wall to a thin crack. Up this to the Pseudopossum ledge.

Short pitches, but packs a lot of climbing in that space. Start below a ledge four metres left of Carezza - just right of a right-facing open corner in the alcove up and left from Aitchison's Needle.

1. 16m The first pitch involves some harder-than-13 moves to get off the deck, then fairly easily upwards and left until you get to a belay on top of the pillar below the traverse.

2. 22m The traverse pitch provides some classic moves and a bit of fun for the second - make sure you place your gear well for those following! Up easily for a few metres then head right to a big grassy ledge (take your pick for belay).

3. 12m Third pitch many take the alternate version (Carezzissima Finish) which goes more direct and at a harder grade. For the original, up the corner at the back of the ledge then a few harder-than-13 moves to get up and over a flake and then easily up and away to finish off.

An easier variant of Possum. Start from the first belay on Possum.

1. 16m - Right along the ledge from the belay then back left up a ramp to join the second pitch of Possum at the end of the traverse; up to the big ledge.

2. 10m - Walk up the slab and corner behind the trees.

A good find which takes you to the top of the first pitch of Possum. Start at the crack between Functor and Possum. Climb the crack and wall above.

A strenuous and committing route up the headwall between Possum and Functor. In a good position and the obvious continuation to Fall Guy. From the Possum ledge, traverse left under the diagonal overlap for about five metres to where it is split by a vertical crack. Up this to the top.

The steep orange wall with four bolts above the Possum traverse. Hard moves past the third bolt up to the fourth lead to the flake on Functor. Traverse right and finish up Sipple. Originally climbed with a rest on the top bolt.

An impressive, but unfashionably wide line up the slightly overhanging wall above Possum, originally 18M3. The first pitch was originally climbed as a variant start to Possum by Dave Shirra and Bill Wilson in October 1970. Start at the corner eight metres left of Possum.

1. 15m - Up the crack and the blocks to the Possum belay.

2. 20m - Up the off-width crack and chimney to a horizontal crack. Traverse right and up the crack as for Sipple.

Contrived, but the well spaced bolts produce photogenic plummets. From the first bolt on Kilowatt, move up left past another bolt and up Functor for four metres (#3 Friend). At the next bolt move around left onto the headwall and traverse four metres left to another bolt. Straight up the headwall to finish up the overhanging S-shaped crack. The bolted line up the headwall is a George Fieg project.

The wide crack three metres left of Functor; it overhangs 20 metres up giving an exposed finish.

1. 16m - Climb the crack, move to the right of the large flake and belay in an alcove. An unnecessary bolt replaces the original piton below the flake.

2. 14m - Up the back of the alcove and delicately to the top of the blocks. Left then over a block and up the corner to Hortensia.

3. 20m - The second pitch of Hortensia - up the slab and then desperately up the chimney past a flake.

Start just left of the original. Straight up the crack to the alcove.

You could be at Arapiles for this overhung climb, which was quite controversial because of its blatantly chipped holds and four bolts. Start two metres left of Lazarro's Direct. Follow the bolts (and chalk if there's any there). Pull over the roof and up the wall to double bolt belay.

The bolts just to the left of Cakes and Ale. Shares anchors with Cakes and Ale.

The steep, wide crack in line with Gutz, below Hortensia.

Involves little new climbing and it hasn't exactly been overwhelmed with repeats. Start as for Gutz, Hortensia etc.

1. 25m - Walk along the ledge and follow the slabby groove up and right to a small ledge on the arete. Move up to a large flake and traverse right onto the arete. Up this to the roof.

2. 20m - Traverse right to finish up Sipple.

From the large flake continue straight up the bulge with a bolt on the left.

A popular and varied climb with an awkward chimney at the top. Start on the ledge about 12 metres up and left from Lazarro's Staircase.

1. 20m - Easily right along a ledge, up the steep crack to another ledge and belay at the top of the corner crack on a sloping ledge.

2. 20m - Up the slab and then desperately up the chimney past a flake.

The line between Hortensia and Matrix. Start as for Hortensia. Pull onto the next ledge to climb a crack and blocks to a small stance. Continue up towards the steep crack above and where it bulges step right onto the wall. Traverse right and finish up a tight chimney.

Better than the original pike-out. Instead of traversing right, continue up the crack above.

Start as for Hortensia.

1. 25m - Pull onto the next ledge, then up the left-hand crack to a small stance on Gutz. Continue leftwards up to the prominent curving corner; the exit is slightly awkward.

2. 15m - Wander on up as you will.

The right side of the arete. Start as for Matrix. Climb up the flake, left along the break to the arete, then up the wall past four bolts. Move left to the "Dreamweaver jug" at the last bolt, and up the arete to DBB.

The left wall of the arete between Matrix and Vomit, now without a flake making it even more serious. Great climbing with some protection (spend time placing it). Start at the short corner directly beneath the arete. Up this past a bolt and follow the thin line left of the arete to mid-height. Move back right onto the arete and follow it to DBB.

The white water streak between Vomit and Dreamweaver, with excellent bouldery face climbing. Either start up Vomit and move right along the ledge to the first bolt, or boulder the hard, short wall. Follow the bolts, place some gear (including #3 camalot) then straight through the overhang above. Scramble up to DBB as for Vomit. Originally a bold and direct wall with good ankle-breaking potential, Mike added bolts in 1990 making it very popular.

Good hand jamming. The steep corner crack six metres left of Matrix with a bulge to finish. There is a bolt belay up and back from the top.

Lovely moves through the roof, but watch out for the spike!! Up the thin corner just left of Vomit, through the triangular roof and up the crack above.

This 'well known test piece' is about 15 metres down Cocker's Gully on the right hand side of a small buttress. Up the crack to a ledge then up the short wall.

Start about 25 metres down the gully from Crack of Dawn. Climb the crack on the left of the buttress, up the rubble blocks and a crack to the top.

Start ten metres left of (and around the corner from) Idle Moments. Climb the finger crack, widening up higher.

Start just left of an arete, five metres left of Idle Moments. A boulder problem up the short wall past two bolts leads to easier climbing up right to the arete, to finish up Packer Gets First Cone. The second bolt was missing a hanger at last report.

Contrived climbing up the brushed wall with three bolts. Start just right of the arete and a metre left of the Idle Moments crack (hands off). A hard start, then straight up the wall/arete, finishing with a mantle.

The left-most crack in the corner alcove. Climb the crack and corner to a crux move over the summit bulge (originally a dubious tree root provided a handy jug here, but this has vanished).

Desperate! Start up the corner (Battle of the Bulge), then move left to the central crack on the left-hand wall. Climb up to and through the bulge (bolt), then straight on up.

The wide corner, which is either laybacked or jammed. A bolt obviates the need for super-large gear (#5 Camelot is nice)

Hard slabbing. Climb the crack (Plimsoll Line) for five metres then step left onto the wall. Crimp delicately past three bolts and finish up a short crack. Name changed by Mike in 2023.

Tacks on a little extra. Climb the crack to the left of the belay ledge.

Good varied climbing that is quite delicate in places. Up the crack on the right wall, moving right to a belay ledge at the top.

One of Booroomba's more friendly crystal crimpers. Crimp and crystal scum up the face right of The Plimsoll Line. Seven bolts to lower-off.

Chimney up the prominent fissure right of Scungy Wall.

Up the flared chimney and crack above, step right at the horizontal break and continue to the top.

The tree may now be burnt, but it was on. The roof and crack between Stentor and Snot. Pull through the horizontal break then up the crack to the top.

Apparently better than the name. The chimney a few metres right of Treason.

1. 25 metres - Up the chimney and corner above to a good ledge.

2. 20 metres - Climb the leftwards slanting crack then the block and arete.

Thin and fingery face moves up the downhill end of the buttress, with wires and bolts.

The thin, left-slanting crack. Placing protection is strenuous.

The climb's bad but the name (Realised Ultimate Reality South Pacific Beach Bum Walrus) is worse. Up the crack to an awkward mantle, and continue up the off-width.

The chimney at the left edge of the Hurricane Cracks wall. Climb the chimney to a roof at 12 metres. Exit on the left and finish up the crack in the wall above.

Worthless. Start as for 'Cyclone Chimney'. Climb the right edge of the chimney via some incipient cracks, kicking off the odd loose block as you go.

Start on the brushed wall four metres left of 'Hurricane Cracks P2'. Up past the peg and then directly to the top.

The flaky crack in the centre of the wall. It is awkward to start but good holds then appear.

Brilliant groove/crack to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks P2'. Up the crack for a few metres then step right into the thin V-alcove. Up the groove/crack above, either moving right near the top or pushing straight through.

Another outstanding sustained wall. A hard start three metres right of 'Morning Thunder'. Climb up past two bolts then move right and up to a short crack. Continue up the wall moving left at the top to belay as for 'Morning Thunder'.

An excellent climb on a spectacular wall. Start at the right hand side of the ledge. Climb past three bolts to a horizontal break, move right and up to another bolt. Follow the thin crack (crux) through the overlap, then go for the top.

Great climbing and position. Start one metre right of 'Beau Temps'. Clip the first bolt on 'Beau Temps', move up and right across the flake to a bolt and stance on the arete (where there used to be a #4 Friend placement - flake now missing). Up the arete past three more bolts.

This climb is to your left and around a corner as you are walking downhill - you'll probably walk past it. It is 40m uphill from Bile. Start at the flake at the right end of the wall. Up the desperate flake then up the wall past a bolt, during the long and epic voyage to the top.

Start eight metres right of 'Bile' at the right-hand clean strip. Place some wires from the walk down track then scramble down a few metres and boulder out the start. Continue up the wall above.

Quite good climbing starting at the block three metres right of 'Bile'. Onto the block and up the wall above passing a horizontal break, and keeping out of 'Bile'.

The obvious steep, jagged crack, which often seeps green liquid. First pitch is now endowed with a thicket of teatree partway up, which will likely detract from the whole experience.

1. 22 metres - Up the crack, with a difficult move to surmount the roof. Continue up the wide crack above. Scramble up to beneath a wall split by two left trending cracks.

2. 13 metres - Move onto the ledge and then up the cracks.

A fun little route which finishes at the lookout. Previously top-roped by every man and his dog. Start on the big ledge 10 metres left of the top pitch of 'Bile', under a bulging wall. Up a short slab, reach up right and pull around the bulge to the flake, and up the poorly protected wall to the top.

The sharp vertical crack with a small roof at half height.

The prominent sweeping crack four metres left of Paranoid. Start left of the crack and climb to the cave. Gymnastically out then continue traversing right.

The deep cleft 20 metres left of 'Bile' (and above the 'Paranoid' boulder). The only difficulty is surmounting the dirt and chockstones.

1. 20 metres - Climb the chimney passing the chockstone on the left. Step left then up a large flake to a platform on the right.

2. 26 metres - Climb the scrub above, occasionally moving back onto rock.

1. 24 metres - climb the chimney, move left and up to the roof, left under this and up three metres to belay.

2. 40 metres - Up right and into the gully which is followed to the top.

The obvious dogleg crack six metres left of 'Hangover'.

More of a bushwalk than a climb. Start at a short crack 20 metres left of 'Vinegar Stroke'.

1. 20 metres - Up the crack then walk right to an easy angled crack and climb this to a tree.

2. 10 metres - Traverse right around the boulder then move left up a tight groove.

3. 15 metres - Up the crack and chimney on the right to a ledge.

4. 25 metres - Easy walking for eight metres then up a slab to finish near the lookout.

A considerable improvement on the original.

4b. 30 metres - Walk left for 10 metres along a ledge. Climb the wall until able to move left into a corner then up this to a ledge. 5b. 6 metres - Up either the chimney or crack above.

Start 15 metres left of 'Recompense' at a short corner.

1. 25 metres - Up the corner, right to a boulder and climb the crack.

2. 15 metres - Crux. Climb the wall, traverse right then up to a cave belay.

3. 30 metres - Climb the corners to the right (as for 'Recompense Variant Finish')

This and the following climbs can be accessed by continuing past 'Plutarch' to where the track descends steeply beneath an orange wall. Turn right and scramble uphill until you reach a left facing black corner with an orange wall on the right.

Thin and technical bridging straight up the obvious corner.

Originally done with a large cairn (pyramid) and stick to avoid the start, as well as a rest on the third bolt. Start five metres right of Apparitions of a Film Star, below the steep orange wall. The first two bolts are badly positioned. Climb past the first bolt with minor difficulty, then cruise to the top.

Originally called Tranquility, but Phil decided this wasn't his style. Start at a crack four metres left of 'Apparitions of a Film Star'. Onto the flake pinnacle then up the crack.

The obvious line on the well hidden wall about 20 metres above the top of 'Apparitions of a Film Star' (the start is marked). Up the flake-formed crack then traverse right to a short curving crack which leads to a mantle and slab to finish.

Discontinuous. Start from the first belay on 'Three Problems'.

1. 10 metres - Up the rightwards slanting crack and around the corner to another large ledge. Scramble up a vegetated gully for 10 metres.

2. 15 metres - Up the slab at the left end of a steep wall, then a ramp to the top.

Start 15 metres right of 'Morsehold', immediately right of a flake pinnacle.

1. 15 metres - Climb the crack to a large ledge.

2. 30 metres - Walk left for seven metres and climb the obvious crack to a ledge, then the ramp on the right, moving back left to a chock filled crack. Up a gully.

Climbs the slab and wall to the left-hand overhang. Start at the right-hand end of the slab at an easy, dirty corner.

1. 45 metres - Wander up the corner for 10 metres then back left to the pillar formed crack. Up this, pulling through a steep section to a stance, then a short crack to belay under the large overhanging corner.

2. 15 metres - Traverse left across the slabs and finish up a grotty overhanging pile of blocks.

No current description available.

Nicely exposed, although a little mossy. Climb through the roof to a block belay.

Pumpy. The best way to finish 'Great Moments in Cricket'. Out under the roof (crux), 10 metres right of 'Morsehold Direct Finish', then up the corner.

The crack. Descriptive buggers, these guidebook writers, eh?

A good position. Start from the finish of 'Morsehold'. Up the flaky orange corner, then the diagonal crack.

Scary! Start on the slab two metres right of 'Dance Crack', beneath the 'Morsehold Direct' roof. Up and through the overlap with trepidation, then up a thin line through a tree to the 'Morsehold Direct' roof/cave to finish up this or 'The Fourth Problem'.

Well it's not that bad. Start as for 'Dance Crack' and reluctantly move onto the right face after a few moves. Cruise up and right across the easy slab, then finish up a steep jam crack.

The crack six metres right of 'Roderick', just right of a wet slimy wall. Up the crack system as you will, finishing right.

The short, wet, hanging chimney bordering the southern end of the 'North Buttress'.

Start 10 metres left of 'Random Route' on a ledge six metres up. Climb the wall to some wire placements, then awkward moves to the bolt. Pass this with difficult, then up the short diagonal crack.

An obvious, marked corner with a bulging right wall, when walking down left from 'Bile'. The name says it all.

1. 20 metres - Up the short corner, follow the ramp leftwards to a vertical corner.

2. 12 metres - Climb the corner crack to a ledge.

3. 20 metres - Walk right along the ledge for about five metres and then follow a weakness to a tree belay.

4. 12 metres - Traverse left around the nose, and finish up the crack.

A good alternative second pitch is the steep corner crack four metres to the right.

The direct finish!

Harder and slightly more direct. Start after pitch two of 'Random Route'.

1. 20 metres - Move up and left onto a ledge, then up the corner to a belay at some blocks.

2. 12 metres - Move left and up the short yellow wall and then finish as for Random Route.

Start about four metres left of the second pitch of 'Random Route' at an obvious corner. Up the corner past a bolt and continue up to a short crack. Move left to a second bolt and up the water-streaked wall to an overhang and thread runner. Pull onto the ledge and traverse left to belay.

A steep finish which is a considerable improvement on the original. Instead of traversing left below the overhang, continue straight up past a fixed wire and two bolts. Move left and up the arete after the second bolt.

A good companion route to 'Morning Thunder'. The belay shimmers 10 metres over the horizon. Start three metres right of 'Random Route' in a corner to the right of a loose column. Up the blocky corner, then more difficult moves up the wall above following the incipient cracks. Move right at the top (or harder, straight up) then wander up the slab.

Start on a bushy ledge five metres right of 'Mirage'. Up a brushed streak with two bolts; take some small wires and RPs.

A mediocre traverse. Start five metres left of 'Pelican Punch'.

1. 20 metres - Climb the crack, moving right to a block belay.

2. 24 metres - Move down to the right, then traverse across a steep lichenous wall. Climb a slab and crack on the right to belay on 'Singularity'.

3. 36 metres - Climb a slab on the right to a ledge and continue right beneath the overhang to finish on a ramp. Walk off right into 'Cocker's Gully'.

The thin bolted wall left of 'Pelican Punch'. Two bolts on the first wall, and two on the top wall.

The prominent crack line on the wall left of the first pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up the wide flake crack then a ramp to a diagonal line which takes you to a ledge on 'Hurricane Cracks'.

Popular, with an excellent second pitch. Start at a short slab eight metres right of 'Eavesdropper'.

1. 35 metres - Up the slab and corner (crux) to a ledge. Climb a dirty wall and a ramp trending left to the huge bushy ledge.

2. 20 metres - A fine wall. Ascends the flaky crack in the centre of the wall. It is awkward to start but good holds then appear.

Uninspiring and dirty in appearance, but the climbing isn't too bad. Start 12 metres to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks'.

1. 30 metres - Up the crack and slab. Continue up the off-width corner, moving right at half height and belay beneath the overhang.

2. 22 metres - Climb a corner and the narrow exposed chimney.

The thin brushed wall right of 'Singularity' with four bolts. A dirty finish leads to a bolt belay on a mossy ledge. Rap off.

Aptly named and a fine companion to other routes in the vicinity. Start at the lichenous pillar right of 'Singularity'. Up the pillar and flakes before moving right across the moss to a corner. Up this and more moss to a large bushy ledge.

Another moss and dirt special. Start at an obvious corner crack 20 metres to the right of and below 'Singularity'. The first pitch is worthwhile.

1. 35 metres - Up a corner for seven metres and exit left up a thin crack, over a bulge and continue up to a large ledge and then move left to a flake pinnacle.

2. 28 metres - Up the pinnacle and wall, before moving left to belay beneath an overhanging chimney.

3. 12 metres - Climb to a tree, then grovel desperately up the gross thrutch chimney.

Very dirty. The crack three metres to the right of 'Dratsab'. Climb the crack to a ledge, up left to another crack and then leftwards up a diagonal crack. Done in two pitches.

Start (marked) two metres right of 'Bluetongue' in a niche. Up the open corner, right then back left up a sloping ramp and corner to a ledge. Up the V-split cracks to finish. Done in two pitches.

The obvious brushed line left of 'Derision'. A hard start leads to sustained slab climbing past two bolts. Follow the brushed line left to a third bolt and up past this on flakes. Scramble up the choss to belay.

The dirty crack 30 metres right of 'Felix'. Climb the corner crack, scramble up the choss, then step right into a crack. Originally two pitches.

The curving chimney eight metres right of 'Derision'.

1. 15 metres - Up the chimney and filth, onto the left arete and follow this to join 'Derision'.

2. 35 metres - Up 'Derision' and then up the left-hand of two cracks. Climb the crack behind the tree then diagonally right.

More choss. The obvious chimney two metres right of 'Flying Tortoise'.

1. 25 metres - Up the chimneys and then the vegetated ramp and wall to a ledge.

2. 20 metres - Down the ledge, traverse left to crack. Up the cracks and corner.

"Horrible and harder than 17 for a human being." - Chris Larque. The obvious corner crack and chimney at the bottom of 'Cocker's Gully' (50 metres right of 'Flying Tortoise').

1. 20 metres - Up the crack and chimney and around the overhang.

2. 30 metres - Scramble up a short wall, then left up a split rock.

Another poxy gully route. Start four metres right of 'The Bleeder'. Up the buttress to a platform, into the gully, then right and over the boulder. Up to a large ledge and finish up the crack on the left.

Start at the gully right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Climb the groove in the right wall.

Start beneath the clean line five metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. A bouldery start leads to a crack. Up this, through the bulge, and up the wall above.

Between 'Fleabag' and 'Tea Bag' with one bolt and RP placements.

White fleapowder has cleaned up the originally friable holds and dirt - quite popular and well worthwhile. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts about three metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Take some RPs and wires.

The garbage gully 20 metres below and right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Walk up the gully with a bit of chimneying at the top for variety.

No Bolts! The thin crack and flake just right of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Getting to the first protection is somewhat perilous.

Technical and fingery climbing on a deceptive wall. Takes the brushed waterstreak 10 metres right of 'Scumbag'. Up the flake to a bolt. Climb past this and a couple of wire placements to a second bolt and the crux. Struggle up this into the easy groove and up to a tree belay.

Fairly sustained with a hard finish up into the groove. Start about four metres right of 'Candy Samples' at the incipient corner. Thin moves up the slab to the flake then continue up the wall past three bolts into the easy groove. Walk up this to the top and a tree belay.

Overhung cranking followed by a well protected face problem. Start 15 metres right of 'Jacob', on top of a pile of boulders. The first old frayed fixed RP has now disappeared, so crank through to a higher one! Continue to the hangerless bolt, solve the face problem and up to the top.

The right crack direct.

Start left of a prominent overhang, below a crack and roof.

1. 30m (18) - Up the left crack to below the roof. Hand traverse back to the right crack and pull up onto a slab.

2. 6m (16) - Up to the top via the two converging cracks.

Up Jacob, then onto the slab and straight up past two bolts to a reachy crux and lower-off.

No stars. Up 'Jacob' and left along the obvious high traverse line to 'Kathy'.

Another instant route that is harder than it looks. Up and through the overhang, and move right rather than left.

Steep and difficult. Start four metres left of 'Jacob' below a ledge. Up to the ledge and through a bulge into a crack. Climb the crack trending left into a vegetated section and easily past a tree to the top.

Steep with an interesting finish. Start from the boulder at the right side of the cave, five metres left and below 'Kathy'.

1. 15m - Up the corner and right to a belay ledge.

2. 30m - Back to the corner for 20 metres, use the ledge on the left and finish up the steep crack.

1. 35m - Up Liz for 35m to small ledge on left.

2. 10m - Up weakness on left, then up & right to short, steep corner.